Tie Dye rocket.

[darthgriffin]

I've thought about making parachutes out of the silk hankerchiefs my wife tie-dyed. After the Wavy Gravy paint thread it really got me thinking about a rocket for her.
This design is based on a BT-60 with the rounded nosecone and a Toucan Tie Dye chute from rocketchutes.com. I still haven't decided on 3 or 4 fins so I simulated them both. I didn't have the proper specs for the NC so I just BSed it.
I've never done fins that insert into slots in the BT. Will that make the joint stronger? These will need all the help they can get.

[Rex R]

well ordinarily the fins would attach to the motor tube...but yes it does provide a stronger joint. I made a few changes, basicly updating it to estes parts(from a baby bertha) and added 1 plywood bulkhead. looks like you'll need a D10-3 to get it moving .
anywho see what you think
rex

[JStitz]

Are you doing this by that dip painting method?
I thought those tests by our members looked cool..like early 1970's Superball colors!
One dip painter thought he screwed up and used some Testors tans or olive drabs and he didn't like his results but I thought it looked fantastic!

Or this could be a job for Mark at www.Stickershock23.com

[darthgriffin]

well ordinarily the fins would attach to the motor tube...but yes it does provide a stronger joint. I made a few changes, basicly updating it to estes parts(from a baby bertha) and added 1 plywood bulkhead. looks like you'll need a D10-3 to get it moving .
anywho see what you think
rex

Thanks for updating the NC specs for me, I've also decided to use a D/E engine mount kit and get some of those nifty adapters Estes has if I want to run smaller engines. It's always nice to have options. I'm curious as to why you added the extra tubing and bulkhead though. If it's a nose weight issue I was pondering just stuffing some putty up the NC if need be.

Are you doing this by that dip painting method?
I thought those tests by our members looked cool..like early 1970's Superball colors!
One dip painter thought he screwed up and used some Testors tans or olive drabs and he didn't like his results but I thought it looked fantastic!

That's the plan so far, but I still have to find some detailed instructions and do some test dips. First I have to build the damn thing though.

If anyone has some tips on how to strengthen the fins, I'm looking for some help in that area. I was planning on using some 1/16 Basswood.

[Rex R]

well you had mentioned flying it on a C motor...this was the only way I could think of to keep it lite enough to fly on a C , and still move the cg forward. for 24mm, well it has that nifty weight compartment....
rex

[darthgriffin]

well you had mentioned flying it on a C motor...this was the only way I could think of to keep it lite enough to fly on a C , and still move the cg forward. for 24mm, well it has that nifty weight compartment....
rex

Ah yes, now I see it. The switch to Polystyrene, which I'll assume means plastic, dropped a lot of nose weight from my original. Well, it's a good thing BTs come in 3-packs.

[cjp]

I've thought about making parachutes out of the silk hankerchiefs my wife tie-dyed. After the Wavy Gravy paint thread it really got me thinking about a rocket for her.
This design is based on a BT-60 with the rounded nosecone and a Toucan Tie Dye chute from rocketchutes.com. I still haven't decided on 3 or 4 fins so I simulated them both. I didn't have the proper specs for the NC so I just BSed it.
I've never done fins that insert into slots in the BT. Will that make the joint stronger? These will need all the help they can get.

Cutting the body tube is easy,get some aluminium angle iron and use that as a guide and make sure you use a new blade.Score lightly and after 4 or 5 passes you should cut threw the tube.I chose that parachute for my Vapors scratch build rocket.On a side note,you can use balsa laminated with cardstock and attached to the motor tube would make a very strong yet lite fin.

[darthgriffin]

Hey, Rex. I just noticed you changed the component material on my BTs from cardboard to "estes body tube 2.5" How the heck did you do that?

[Rex R]

made a custom tube material of nearly the proper density (ongoing project) and named it estes body... early on I noticed that none of the material choices quite matched the figures I was getting via weighing etc. so I started 'making' custom tubes, getting pretty close now .
rex

[darthgriffin]

made a custom tube material of nearly the proper density (ongoing project) and named it estes body... early on I noticed that none of the material choices quite matched the figures I was getting via weighing etc. so I started 'making' custom tubes, getting pretty close now .
rex

Nice, thanks.

Ok, MMT is done, design updated. I also changed the coupler into a 3-moon baffle system using the leftover basswood from the fins. I hope to get started on that tonight, if I don't get lured into watching more Star Trek TNG with my wife, but I probably will.

Any last minute advice?
Tie Dye baffle.ork

[Rex R]

your 'bulkheads'/baffle plates (if made from left over finstock) are the wrong thickness...for simulation purposes I generally just put one 'plate' in the middle and multiply the thickness by 1.5, speaking of which. if you're using the top plate as a shock cord anchor point I'd use 1/8" ply...
oh right, think you're gonna need nose weight for that F32 .
rex

[darthgriffin]

Hahaha. I just threw that F in there to see what would happen. I've been obsessing over Apogee's motors a lot lately.

[stickershock23]

When you get ready I could print you up a full tube wrap!!

[darthgriffin]

That's the best idea I've heard yet, but how would that cover the fins? They are very oddly shaped.