Micro Launch failure

Hey all,

I'm brand new to rocketry in general, but have become obsessed! I am currently fixated on micros because of limited availability of launch sites around here.

I just today tried launching some of the Quest LPBs, and had complete ignition failure. The Quest handheld controller made the continuity noise, but refused to ignite. At first I thought this was because one of the clips wouldn't quite spring closed, but with some fiddling I got it to stick, and I did get the continuity noise, so I knew it was connecting.

I brought everything home and tested in a controlled environment and the igniters won't even warm up from a 9V battery in that Quest controller. I tested with my Estes Electron Beam (running off of 3 AAs), and got a glow right away.

My ultimate question is, what is wrong with that Quest launcher?

I've read around here about some kind of conversion to an external 12V battery, but don't know how that's done, or if it's actually going to work. Do I just have a bum controller?

Did you test/check the 9v battery?
I just had a brand new one with a 2015 expiration date that only had 4.3 volts right out of the package!

That's 3 x's this year already!

I use the quest with no problem so far.

Yes you can use a 12v gel cell.[lawn mower/ motorcycle/emergency battery/ jump start package battery] 15-40 bucks. Will supply endless power for micro's

The 9 volt battery is designed to deliver a low, steady current over a prolonged interval, which is just the ticket for something like a transistor radio* or a smoke detector. This is less than ideal for something like a launch controller, though. For that type of device, you need a battery type that is able to dump a lot of current in a big hurry, and then recover quickly so that it is ready to do it again. And again. And again. The battery that is well-suited for that task is the 1.5 volt alkaline AA. All-in-one handheld launch controllers like the venerable Estes Electron Beam, the Electron Beam E, the new Pratt Hobbies FullBoost and the BMS Mighty "D" all use multiples of 1.5 volt alkaline cells (the BMS controller uses D cells, though). Quest chose to go in another direction, using single 9 volt transistor radio type batteries in all of its launch controllers. Their current pistol grip Futuristic launch controller and the "hockey puck" controller in the original MicroMaxx Silo both use this battery as the power source. The benefit is that this allows Quest to offer a lighter weight, simpler to manufacture and less expensive device that has the convenience of needing only one battery cell to operate. The downside is the substantially shorter battery life of a power source that isn't really designed for this type of application. Your experience is quite typical.

But fear not, there is an inexpensive solution that allows you to continue using your otherwise rather nicely-designed Quest launch controller. Just add one of these handy items to your next order from Quest. It will enable you to connect your controller to a 6 volt alkaline lantern battery, which will provide enough juice to launch all day, every day for a month or more (or considerably longer if you only launch on the weekends). Quest should really start bundling the EBC with all of their launch sets at least.




* aka the pre-iPod.

1) Did you use a fresh 9 volt ALKALINE battery and verify the voltage by testing it, or did you use a horrible "heavy duty" (carbon zinc) battery that cannot deliver much current?

2) Estes controllers have 4 AA batteries, not 3.

3) See attached document for data on several brands of controllers. Voltage of batteries, voltage at microclips (length of wire and thickness or thinness of wires affects this), current flow when launch button pushed at microclips, etc.

4) Based upon my decades of experience and the testing I've done, you either have a bad battery or a defective controller. Testing the battery and answering question umber 1 above will isloate the fault.

ArchangelGabriel said:

Hey all,

I'm brand new to rocketry in general, but have become obsessed! I am currently fixated on micros because of limited availability of launch sites around here.

I just today tried launching some of the Quest LPBs, and had complete ignition failure. The Quest handheld controller made the continuity noise, but refused to ignite. At first I thought this was because one of the clips wouldn't quite spring closed, but with some fiddling I got it to stick, and I did get the continuity noise, so I knew it was connecting.

I brought everything home and tested in a controlled environment and the igniters won't even warm up from a 9V battery in that Quest controller. I tested with my Estes Electron Beam (running off of 3 AAs), and got a glow right away.

My ultimate question is, what is wrong with that Quest launcher?

I've read around here about some kind of conversion to an external 12V battery, but don't know how that's done, or if it's actually going to work. Do I just have a bum controller?

Click to expand...

View attachment ContinuityCurrentTests.doc

it is exceedingly easy to convert quest controllers to 12v. external battery controllers with a simple addition of an external battery drop wire.

I have 3 or 4 of these controllers in use by the grand kids in several parts of the country. They & I have had nothing but great times launching micros with these controllers and a Hobbico 7amp/hr gel cell sold at just about any RC hobby shop or on-line from Tower hobbies and others.

Quest sells an external battery cable for 3 dollar or you can make one from about 3' of 22-18ga lamp cord a pair of alligator clips and a 9volt batter clip. just remember to reverse the wires in the clip so they match up correctly

Dead shorting 9volt batteries (Which is what we do with an igniter) is the absolute worst thing you can do to that type battery, litterally distroys them from the inside. As Mark said they are intended for low draw long use. Alkaline and lithium 9v's will last a good bit longer but we're still shorting them which really tears them up.