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Thread: General question regarding sanding wood filler

  1. #1
    Join Date
    5th March 2012
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    General question regarding sanding wood filler

    I know this is probably one of the dumest questions, but i need to ask it. I have watered down the elmers wood filler per information i have found here. Painted my fins on my vagabond and executioner even though that rockets fins are ply, dont know if that was needed? Anyhow, when you sand the filler after drying, do you sand it down basically taking it all off with say a 220 or 320 grit paper until you see barewood again? and do you guys fillet it on the lugs and fins to make it uniform and neat prior to paint? I really could use some help, as i would like to complete these two bad boy rockets i have gave so much love making perfect. gosh i sure do enjoy this hobby more as a grown man more than when i was a kid!

  2. #2
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    21st April 2010
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    apply so as to cover the wood, let dry. then sand until the wood starts to appear and looks/feels smooth. depending on the wood surface this may require more than one application. same technique is used for primer and spot putty. good luck.
    rex

  3. #3
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    18th January 2009
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    The filler isn't necessary on the fins but done properly it will fill in any grain or irregularities in the wood and make a nicer finish. There are other ways to accomplish this--some just use multiple coats of primer while others laminate fins with paper.

    Personally I usually would only use wood filler to do fin and lug fillets after shooting on a coat of primer. You don't want the watered down wood filler to come in contact with the cardboard. One tip for this part--if you apply tape about a quarter inch away from the fin and lug it keeps the filler where you want it and makes a nice clean line.
    Lisa

  4. #4
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    15th June 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3boydad View Post
    ? Anyhow, when you sand the filler after drying, do you sand it down basically taking it all off with say a 220 or 320 grit paper until you see barewood again?
    I add food coloring to the watered down filler. That way, I can tell where I have sanded all the way down to the wood and where I have not.
    Lawrence William
    NAR #18121 / TRA #00134
    SoAR #468 / SAM #0422

    Epoxy is capricious and delights in annoying me

  5. #5
    Join Date
    5th March 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pippen View Post
    The filler isn't necessary on the fins but done properly it will fill in any grain or irregularities in the wood and make a nicer finish. There are other ways to accomplish this--some just use multiple coats of primer while others laminate fins with paper.

    Personally I usually would only use wood filler to do fin and lug fillets after shooting on a coat of primer. You don't want the watered down wood filler to come in contact with the cardboard. One tip for this part--if you apply tape about a quarter inch away from the fin and lug it keeps the filler where you want it and makes a nice clean line.
    I got some all over the bottom half of my tube. is this a problem? i sure hope not

  6. #6
    Join Date
    3rd September 2009
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    Omaha, Ne
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    shouldnt be a problem - just sand it smooth trying not to sand the surrounding body tube too much
    Thanks,

    Steve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
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    Behind enemy lines in Socialist California
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    When I fill body tube seams, I use carpenters wood filler (CWF) mixed with water to a consistency of mayo. Never have had any problems. I apply the filler with my fingertip to minimize the excess that will later need to be sanded flush.

    If you do get some CWF where it doesn't belong, it's a pretty simple matter of sanding it off. Just apply light pressure with a fingertip to the spot.

    One thing to bear in mind is that unless you're building a museum model, you are going to put a black powder motor in this rocket, boost it into the air a couple of hundred feet if the motor doesn't cato, hope the chute deploys properly and that the rocket avoids hazards such as trees, cars, roofs, and rocks on the way down.

    Don't invest more into this bird than you are willing to lose.

    From 15' they all look about the same.
    Kit (AKA Cranky Kong)
    Total Total Impulse as BAR: 7,753.69 Ns (Equivalent to a 51% M motor.)

    =| Calirado, Colofornia...what's the diff anymore? |=

  8. #8
    Join Date
    5th March 2012
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    217
    Quote Originally Posted by o1d_dude View Post
    When I fill body tube seams, I use carpenters wood filler (CWF) mixed with water to a consistency of mayo. Never have had any problems. I apply the filler with my fingertip to minimize the excess that will later need to be sanded flush.

    If you do get some CWF where it doesn't belong, it's a pretty simple matter of sanding it off. Just apply light pressure with a fingertip to the spot.

    One thing to bear in mind is that unless you're building a museum model, you are going to put a black powder motor in this rocket, boost it into the air a couple of hundred feet if the motor doesn't cato, hope the chute deploys properly and that the rocket avoids hazards such as trees, cars, roofs, and rocks on the way down.

    Don't invest more into this bird than you are willing to lose.

    From 15' they all look about the same.
    god thing i have a field that its impossible to lose. But getting blown up is a different story. i know your right, i should just go with it now!

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