THAT KNIFE YOU USE

[Gary Byrum]

Yes knives. I want to know your favorite knife when you are building rockets. I'm certain the old standard "Exacto" will play a big part here because I have read about it in many dozens of threads. I know the Exacto has more variations these days than what we had back in the 60's. Remember that round Exacto with the pointy blade that rolls....dangerously? I still have one but I rarely have a use for it. I had less control with it because it was round and not flat like my break-away knife is. My cuts on fins were almost always canted and I thought it was because I just didn't have good cutting skills. When I discovered the break-away, I was all over it. To this day I could never go back to using one of those round handled knives. Mine is pictured above that killer lil saw I use a lot also.

[fyrwrxz]

...dark screen with shadows moving in front of a small camp fire. The sound of motor vehicles from off screen getting louder.
(Cut to)
Mob scene with villagers holding torches and pitchforks and wooden clubs)
(Pan left-tight focus head shot with crowd in background)
LINE: Heresy, I say! Heresy! Let him burn to cleanse his evil ways!
(pull back-wide shot) Villagers climb aboard waiting trucks with flaming torches held high to illuminate the throng of villagers pouring forth in agitation.
(Overvoiced crowd mumbled threats)
LINE: To Gary's house!
(fade to black)

Just kidding! I find myself using these, too! One in the range box, a few scattered about. Hey-a buck at your local super duper discount store-what's not to love?

[GrossApproximator]

I use good ol fashioned round-handled exacto knives. I've gotten good enough to make my cuts square, and I like having that small, maneuverable (hope I spelled that right) tip-of-the-blade to work with.

[Gary Byrum]

...dark screen with shadows moving in front of a small camp fire. The sound of motor vehicles from off screen getting louder.
(Cut to)
Mob scene with villagers holding torches and pitchforks and wooden clubs)
(Pan left-tight focus head shot with crowd in background)
LINE: Heresy, I say! Heresy! Let him burn to cleanse his evil ways!
(pull back-wide shot) Villagers climb aboard waiting trucks with flaming torches held high to illuminate the throng of villagers pouring forth in agitation.
(Overvoiced crowd mumbled threats)
LINE: To Gary's house!
(fade to black)

OH LAWD! Have I committed sacrilege to the world of standardized modeling tools? Please LAWD forgive thyself in that I had no idea that breaking 1 of the 10 commandments in modeling would have me thrown under the bus....pitched me in fiery flames of modeling hell or better yet, cast out like the rocketry demon that hath no faith? FINE! I'll deal with the consequences.

[fyrwrxz]

Go in peace, misguided one...for the rocket gods have forgiven you in their service as a faithful minion. Your mantra to repeat is 3-2-1-launch! and all your sins will be forgiven. Special rockets will be taken as tribute....

[JStitz]

...dark screen with shadows moving in front of a small camp fire. The sound of motor vehicles from off screen getting louder.
(Cut to)
Mob scene with villagers holding torches and pitchforks and wooden clubs)
(Pan left-tight focus head shot with crowd in background)
LINE: Heresy, I say! Heresy! Let him burn to cleanse his evil ways!
(pull back-wide shot) Villagers climb aboard waiting trucks with flaming torches held high to illuminate the throng of villagers pouring forth in agitation.
(Overvoiced crowd mumbled threats)
LINE: To Gary's house!
(fade to black)

You just did a complete re-enactment of when back in the early 80's the NAR found out Chris Pearson or one of those other single digit Tripoli members DARED launch a "G" Motor (GASP!) at an NAR launch.....yes you've come a long way baby!

[hcmbanjo]

Yes knives. I want to know your favorite knife when you are building rockets. I'm certain the old standard "Exacto" will play a big part here because I have read about it in many dozens of threads. I know the Exacto has more variations these days than what we had back in the 60's. Remember that round Exacto with the pointy blade that rolls....dangerously? I still have one but I rarely have a use for it. I had less control with it because it was round and not flat like my break-away knife is. My cuts on fins were almost always canted and I thought it was because I just didn't have good cutting skills. When I discovered the break-away, I was all over it. To this day I could never go back to using one of those round handled knives. Mine is pictured above that killer lil saw I use a lot also.

That's the same knife I picked up at Home Depot two months ago.
The Olfa XA-1

I still have the #11 blade X-Acto for small curved cuts, but I only use it now about on tenth of the time.
The Olfa break-off blade knife gets a LOT of use.
It fits the hand better than the X-Acto and the blades are dirt cheap in comparison.
This Olfa knife is a better quality than the dollar store break off blade knives. I still have a dollar store knife in my range box.

[Barracuda]

Good old #11 round and about 4 packs of blades at any given moment.Got to where I sand them w/400 when they get a little dull..signs of the times

[Gary Byrum]

Actually I bought my knife at Harbor Freight. The blades were rather questionable so I got really good replacements at Lowe"s. I used these kinds of knives as a sign maker and got a groove on with the stability. I had a really hard time with those round handle jobs and these help me keep to the straight cut better. It's all about what fits best. The rubber grips are indeed a plus.

[rockets4kids]

A little while back I realized that x-acto blades can be sharpened. In fact, x-acto blades are quite easy to sharpen, and take a nice edge. Once you get the hang of it, you will realize that brand-new x-acto blades really are not all that sharp. If you think a brand-new x-acto blade is sharp, you have no idea of what sharp really is.

This lead me to do something that I had always wanted to do: make my own x-acto handle with the proper grip size, weight, and balance. This is what I came up with:

[sandman]

Yes knives. I want to know your favorite knife when you are building rockets. I'm certain the old standard "Exacto" will play a big part here because I have read about it in many dozens of threads. I know the Exacto has more variations these days than what we had back in the 60's. Remember that round Exacto with the pointy blade that rolls....dangerously? I still have one but I rarely have a use for it. I had less control with it because it was round and not flat like my break-away knife is. My cuts on fins were almost always canted and I thought it was because I just didn't have good cutting skills. When I discovered the break-away, I was all over it. To this day I could never go back to using one of those round handled knives. Mine is pictured above that killer lil saw I use a lot also.

Ahhh.

The Atlas Snap Saw!

Been using them for years to cut wood.

Oh ya and train tracks.

[Micromeister]

Knife & blade or saw depend entirely on what is being cut Wood, cardboard or plastic but which ever knife is picked up the get 10 stropping strokes before making that first cut. #11, 16, 2, or 24 blades in any number of stock and custom non-rolling, soft grip handles keep them on the table. Even gary's snap blade box cutter has it's uses.

As for Saw's: about the only saw I'm using these days is the JLC precision micro tooth wooden handle saw. best 12bucks I've ever spent. like it so well recently purchased another set.

[Stymye]

widget supply has a saw that fits an exacto , really nice for cutting plastic and cardboard real precise.. $2.39 a 5 pack ..
they have lots of other deals also



they also have the nice metal saws that fit the dremel, sooooo much better than the fiber discs for cutting slots.they have different arbors and sets as well
just type in "saw" on the search box ,, it won't link to the individual pages for some reason

[Gary Byrum]

I especially like that round blade for the Dremel. I'll be looking into those.

[MarkII]

Those old-fashioned round handled X-Acto knives are exactly what I use for most of my work. I use a #1, a #2, a Gripster, a Craft Swivel knife, a Retractable Blade knife and a Woodcarving knife (all purchased individually). Never have a problem with any of them. For heavier cutting jobs I use a folding-blade utility knife.

[MarkII]

As for Saw's: about the only saw I'm using these days is the JLC precision micro tooth wooden handle saw. best 12bucks I've ever spent. like it so well recently purchased another set.

That is one nicely designed saw! Where did you get it?

[o1d_dude]

I'm partial to an Uber Skiver I bought many many years ago from Bill Northrop when he was at the helm of Model Builder magazine.

From what I've learned, the blades were nothing more than surgical scalpel blades with the back end of the blade snapped off. The handle however was the real work of art. It was one of the first "hobby knife" to release from the rear rather than at the base of the blade. The handle also featured a hex tailpiece that prevent it from rolling off the workbench. I recall it being somewhat expensive at the time I bought it however I still have it and the neat wooden case in which it shipped.

Too late to snap a picture tonight but I will add one tomorrow morning.

In addition, I have the usual collection of Exacto, Excel, and Revell hobby knives as well. Most of the Exacto knives date back to early 1970's when all sorts of things were still made in the USA. Lately I've been using Excel blades as they still are American made.

[rockets4kids]

Those old-fashioned round handled X-Acto knives are exactly what I use for most of my work. I use a #1, a #2, a Gripster, a Craft Swivel knife, a Retractable Blade knife and a Woodcarving knife (all purchased individually). Never have a problem with any of them. For heavier cutting jobs I use a folding-blade utility knife.

I have never found a #1 handle that would securely hold a blade. I have easily had a half-dozen and some are so bad that I need to tighten the blade every five minutes. Others are so loose I need to place a piece of tape onto the blade tang. And I'm talking about the higher quality handles here, not the no-name crap that has become available in recent years. I won't even begin to talk about how bad those handles are.

I find the #1 design to be just slightly too thin, too short, and too light for my tastes anyways, so when I got back into heavy modeling last year, I went out and purchased a whole bunch of higher-end commercial handles in hopes that I would find one that I liked. Some of them were indeed quite nice, but none of them felt "just right" in my hand.

I only got the handles when I went looking for replacement blades. I purchased a 100-pack some 25 years ago and finally went through them all. Turns out that the retailer who had the best selection/prices on blades also had the nice handles. I got blades from all the current major manufacturers and none of them compare to my blades from 25 years ago. It's a good thing I saved all my old, beat-up blades, because these are the ones I have been putting in my fixed-blade handles.

[Micromeister]

That is one nicely designed saw! Where did you get it?

On-line from Unique Master Models. www.umm-usa.com Lots of precision tools and unusual Plastic model parts & some kits. just got the JLC Anniversary saw Set for making multi precision parallel and single cuts and engraving panel lines. What a wonderful hand tool.

Also if they are still out there super thin micro tool .010" thick 80T blue steel flex blades to outstanding precision cutting in woods, plastics & some soft metals (brass & copper).

[MarkII]

I have never found a #1 handle that would securely hold a blade. I have easily had a half-dozen and some are so bad that I need to tighten the blade every five minutes. Others are so loose I need to place a piece of tape onto the blade tang. And I'm talking about the higher quality handles here, not the no-name crap that has become available in recent years. I won't even begin to talk about how bad those handles are.

Never had that problem. Once I tighten the nut, it stays tightened. I have the opposite problem; sometimes it takes quite a bit of effort to get it loose again so that I can change the blade!

[MarkII]

On-line from Unique Master Models. www.umm-usa.com Lots of precision tools and unusual Plastic model parts & some kits. just got the JLC Anniversary saw Set for making multi precision parallel and single cuts and engraving panel lines. What a wonderful hand tool.

Also if they are still out there super thin micro tool .010" thick 80T blue steel flex blades to outstanding precision cutting in woods, plastics & some soft metals (brass & copper).

Wow, this place is a gold mine! Thanks for the link!

[Micromeister]

I have never found a #1 handle that would securely hold a blade. I have easily had a half-dozen and some are so bad that I need to tighten the blade every five minutes. Others are so loose I need to place a piece of tape onto the blade tang. And I'm talking about the higher quality handles here, not the no-name crap that has become available in recent years. I won't even begin to talk about how bad those handles are.

I find the #1 design to be just slightly too thin, too short, and too light for my tastes anyways, so when I got back into heavy modeling last year, I went out and purchased a whole bunch of higher-end commercial handles in hopes that I would find one that I liked. Some of them were indeed quite nice, but none of them felt "just right" in my hand.

I only got the handles when I went looking for replacement blades. I purchased a 100-pack some 25 years ago and finally went through them all. Turns out that the retailer who had the best selection/prices on blades also had the nice handles. I got blades from all the current major manufacturers and none of them compare to my blades from 25 years ago. It's a good thing I saved all my old, beat-up blades, because these are the ones I have been putting in my fixed-blade handles.

I've had just the opposite experience, can't really call it a problem. Once I finger tighten a #11 or #16 in a #1 handle (anyones) they are a BEAR to get out or loosen up. Just recently I snapped off a #16 blade I was using to pry out some Oak I was hollowing. While trying to remove the shank for the #1 X-Acto handle I split the aluminum collar trying to back it off. Replaced it with one from the old spare parts drawer and we're back in business. Most of my #1 & #2 X-Acto handles were purchased back the the early 70's and are still working hard today.

One of the things I don't really enjoy about most hobby knife handles is the Black aluminum Oxide we get (Rub off) while working with them. I've for the most part solved that with a quick clear coat on the collars and coating the shafts with a layer, two or three (if you don't like the diameter add more layers to fit your hand) of Various adhesive backed color & clear Vinyls. Sure helps keep the fingers and Thumb crease clearer

I purchased 100pks of both #11 and #16 X-acto blades in the 90's...I've still got about 94 #11 & 97 #16...how you ask? Because I strop my knife blades at least 10 strokes per side each and every time I pick up the knife. because of this practice, I'm still using a razor shape blades installed in the handles in the 90's. Unless I snap a blade doing something I know is wrong (ie Hollowing out Oak mold plug).. I just haven't had to change blades. Spare #2, #3, & #24's same deal. If we keep them shape (20 strokes on a rouge coated strop takes all of 30 seconds)....blades last indefinitely.

Minor broken tip can be repaired by carefully grinding or filing off from the blade back.

Factory edge blades may be fairly cheap but out of the package they are only Wire factory edge shape...NOT razor sharp. As we knock off the micro wire filings the blade dulls very quickly.

As a side note: Sharpening Stones are ONLY used to remove very bad Chips or nicks in the blade usually caused by Misuse... even the finest Arkansas wet stones remove way to much "Tempered Blade Material" litterally grinding down the tempered part of the blade to a point it will no longer hold a keen edge.
I have several folding and sheath knifes that have NEVER been on a stone since purchase. My Stropped only Buck Loc-back knife has often substituded for a straight razor out of the trail. Yeap I carried two different Strops in my backback one for knifes and One for Axes and other impliments.

Once we learn how to sharpen and strop, replacement blades for our Hobby knifes become almost unnecessary.

If you think your blade is shape; Try cutting an facial tissue layed across the fingers held only by your thumb. If you can't make a clean NO tear slice between the fingers the blade really is not razor sharp.

Strops can be just about any old REAL leather strip (flesh side) rough side UP Old belt, piece of shoe etc. rubbed well with a jewelers rouge cake that can be found at any Leatherwork or industrial supply.

[Tarasdad]

I have a selection of X-acto handles and blades in various sizes and shapes. I also keep a supply of single-edge razor blades on hand. For saws I have both X-acto and Zona razor saws, again with several different blades. I used to have one of those micro-saw blades for my Dremel, but after having it nearly sever my left thumb I got rid of it and don't use them any more.

[Blakkzakk]

I generally stick with my Xacto knives, but I have used a breakaway knife for long cuts before.

[DavidQ]

A stanley knife, always. There absolutely no way the blade can twist in the handle, unlike with an Exactlo knife, so I can press hard.

[Gary Byrum]

Controlling the pitch of the elongated blade, (like the standard Xacto) was always my nemesis. That and the problem I had with them riding up on my straight edge thus dulling the blade. When I discovered the break-away kinves, it was a relief. I really don't care if it takes me a few more cuts to get the job done right, it does bother me to correct the flaws I encounter with the Xacto. That's my story and I'm stickin" to it. If you can master that round handle better than me, more power to ya.

[MarkII]

I have a selection of X-acto handles and blades in various sizes and shapes. I also keep a supply of single-edge razor blades on hand. For saws I have both X-acto and Zona razor saws, again with several different blades. I used to have one of those micro-saw blades for my Dremel, but after having it nearly sever my left thumb I got rid of it and don't use them any more.

I have a few of those miniature circular saw blades for my Dremel. Mine are made by Gyros and they are meant to be used with the circular saw blade guard attachment, which I also have. I would never use one of those blades "bare," without the blade guard which completely encloses it. All you have to do is have the tool slip from your hand while you are adjusting the speed or turning it on or off, causing it to drop onto your leg and severing a femoral artery, which with cause you to bleed out in less than a minute. (You'll be dead before the paramedics can get to you.) Those things are incredibly razor sharp and unlike a table saw blade, when chocked in a Dremel or an extension shaft they are lightweight and able to roam freely, which makes them much more hazardous. Never use one of these blades without the guard that is designed for it.

The Gyros guard completely houses the blade, but has a spring-loaded gate that you must pry open to expose the cutting edge. The spring is rather firm, and when the tool finishes the cut or is lifted away from the material (either intentionally or accidentally), the guard instantly snaps back shut, totally isolating the blade. It is similar to the guard on a circular saw or table saw, except that when it is not actually cutting something, no part of the blade is exposed.

I have not found very many uses for the blades, though. One of the reasons why I chose the Gyros system over Dremel's own, very similar circular saw blade system, was that the Gyros allowed for larger diameter saw blades. I had hopes of using it to cut out fins from thin plywood stock, for instance. The problem is that the blades and guard mount directly perpendicular to the Dremel shaft, with no offset. Because if that, I cannot use it to cut anything wider than half the width of the blade, because the tool motor gets in the way. In contrast, Dremel's system has an offset that tilts the tool up far enough to keep it out of the way. The downside is that the Dremel attachment, in addition to being more expensive, is smaller in diameter, which means that it cannot cut material as thick as the large Gyros blade can cut. Both systems seem to be designed to cut strip stock rather than sheet of stock. I'm going to have to save up for a jigsaw or, somehow, for a table saw in order to do that.

[Tarasdad]

I have a 16" scroll saw I can use if I need it. So far all of the cutting I've needed to do has been handled by my Zona and a miter box. Of course, it's all been for building RC airplanes, not making rocket fins which is a different animal entirely. That's where the scroll saw will come in handy, stack my blanks, tack the pattern on top and cut the whole stack in one go.

Cutting material with an X-acto is a multi-pass process. You don't try to cut through any but the thinnest of materials in one pass. 1/16" balsa usually takes 3 passes to achieve a clean, straight, vertical cut when I make a part. Let the blade do the work, not your muscles.

[MarkII]

I don't own any power tools other than my Dremel, a power drill and a circular saw. I cut nearly all of my fins out by hand using one of my knives, including the fins that I made from 3/16" plywood. I also have a couple of SharkSaws (a pull saw and a detail saw) and an assortment of X-Acto razor saws. I use them mostly for cutting things like dowels and strip stock. For the thick plywood fins, I cut out rough blanks with the pull saw and then cut the final shapes with my utility knife and some Irwin extra thin blades. I prefer using the knives over the saws because of the precision that I can achieve with them, but the saws come in handy too at times. I also cut all of my tubes with knives; I have never used a saw on a tube. (I haven't had an opportunity to work with fiberglass tubing yet, though.)

I avoid the problem with the knife blade running over my steel straightedge by refraining from trying to cut most materials in one pass. I pay attention to how I am holding the X-Acto knife so that the blade is perpendicular to the material and I pay attention to the amount of pressure that I am applying. I establish the track of the cut with a couple of light passes before applying any real pressure. I do this whether I am cutting balsa, basswood, plywood or any other material. The familiar #11 and #2 X-Acto blades provide great precision and maneuverability, but because of that they have to be used with care and attention. I follow the same procedure when I am using the other knives too, including the utility knife.

I have tried using breakaway knives in the past, and I still keep one in my field box. I never found one that was particularly comfortable to use for any extended period of time, and they all dulled very rapidly. To me they just seem to be more useful for cutting boxes than for fine craft work.

One of the many things that I like about my primary #1 and #2 X-Acto knives are those very same small diameter round handles that others have complained about. They enable me to hold those knives using the same grip that I use for a pen or pencil. In a sense I make cuts with them by using them to "draw" the cut line with the blade, as opposed to holding them butcher-style, as if I was cutting up slabs of meat.

[Micromeister]

Finesse I think is a word most of us "hobbiest" really need to learn and understand.

As mark & others have said most and I really mean MOST material cutting should be done paying particular attention to knife control and be Multi pass.

I don't "normally" use a metal straightedge while knife cutting Balsa, Basswood, lite Ply or plastic. preferring a Clear Acerylic drafting triangle or thin clear rule for longer cuts. Why? because I can make sure the line is at the very edge of the tool before gliding the knife along the guide. Poor attention or knife handling will result in not only a poor cut part but a ruined Triangle or straight edge. Using clear guides "Helps" improve proper cutting angle and attention to pressure on the blade.

I truely believe that is way I'm using the X-Acto retractable Pencil knife more then even #1 X-Acto handles with #11 blades. As Mark mentioned in the previous post..It's like cutting with a pen or pencil. No pressure just repeated controlled easy passes. Even freehand on compound curved clear plastic canopies once you learn NOT to try to complete the cut in a single pass you'll be able to follow even the most delicate recess or drawn line.

One Trick that may not have been relayed. While cutting with any of the knifes & blades we have been discussing. Best results will be obtained by always drawing the Knife toward yourself, NEVER away or at steep angles including circular cuts.....Particularly precision cutting. Turn the model, material or yourself if needed to maintain the "draw toward the body" knife attitude. Do not over reach on very long cuts, use minimial pressure letting the blade do the work.

In my bag of specialty Knifes I have several Swivel knifes and dual blade knifes for cutting parallel lines. They are used for their intended purpose but even with these it's almost always at least two passes even on vinyl or masking papers. Again a delicate touch allows the tip of the swivel blade to retrace it's own steps around the previous pass.
Slower? sure but Finesse always makes for more precise & clean cut parts.