T3 Phoenix AIM-54 6.9333 sport scale.

[Micromeister]

Don't intend to spend the time usually put into a true scale model on this one. Really I not all that excited about this model. My Grandson thinks it's pretty Cool so I'm building the prototype while making him up a set of parts for his construction later.

That said I did the MMWW drawing with 3 scale on the same page.. Really NOT a lot to this missile. T3,T4 & T5(BT-5)

Decided to build the smallest of the three T3 (.375") using a store bought Fliskit NCB-3K balsa nosecone that is a downscale match for Estes PNC-80K

Fin material chosen...3/64 3ply lit ply...making the patterns was fun.

[Micromeister]

Built and installed a standard 1" long T2+ motor mount with Fliskit T2+ to T3 centering rings and typical 30" x 90lb kevlar/beading wire Shockcord & anchor. Installed in the aft end of a 3-7/64" (3.1094") T3 (.375") dia body tube I made a slight change from the drawing setting the end of the motor flush with the end of the T3 outer bodytube. because of the slight difference in the OD's of the airframe and motor mount I felt I'd end up mangling the outer body trying to remove spent motor casings. No pictures were taken of this process..I simply forgot while assembling the model while watching TV one evening.

Cutting all 8 pieces from the 3/64" lite-ply when as usual using a stropped #11 X-acto and metal straightedge. carefully stack sanding each set of 4 fin & strakes to uniform size. for these small fins I plan on beveling the strakes After they are installed & fillets applies. cutting & size sanding process was also photo neglected.

Fin attachment is done on an auto alignment jig with a 3/64" shim centering the main body tube allowing each set of Strake & fin pieces to be attached at the same time. Tacked with CA, Fine epoxy fillets will be added with minimal radius.

shaving a fliskit 1/2" long Launch lug to give 2- 1/8" pieces tucked into a fin/body seam they shouldn't be seen much.

[Micromeister]

with LL's & fillets finished, a 1/2" x 9" yellow teflon streamer was cut & tied to the butterfly knot in our shockline. stuff in the tube we install a MMX-II motor we attach a kevlar swing string to see how we're doing. Totally unstable...

Time to Hollow our new Fliskit Nosecone. A dremel with a end cutter bit is used to remove as much balsa as I can down pertty close to the tip, leaving about 1/16" wall around the shoulder. re-set back in the model body we start adding patties of clay wrapped around the nosecone again finding the balance point we give it a swing. more clay needed add and adjust string. Re-swing and repeat until we get a nice level swing flight path.
I've got the amount written down but don't have it handy here. I'll add the Mass amount a bit later. __._grams Nose weight required.

Placing all the clay on my gram scale we convert to #9 shot and start to load the Nosecone.

Now we add our 90lb kevlar attachment loop into the bottom of our hollow cone it's OK to have about 3/4" of loop extending from the cone sometimes it is more then needed other times..we'll you'll see in a moment.
with Loop centered in the hollow opening start loading in the shot.
CRUD! Even with the nose hollowed as far down and thin as I dared we have more shot then room...what to do???
Actually it's not that big a deal. With some Blue painters tape or plain old masking tape add a couple wraps around the shoulder of our hollowed NC. Keep the tape "tube" extension as round as you can in the process. Add the remainder of the required nose weight while dripping a drop or two of CA as you go, then with all the shot in place a small amount (couple drops) of 30 minute epoxy onto the mass letting the glues settle around the balls before adding the next drop. Once you have a level of epoxy that doesn't soak in stand the NC in a spent motor casing or other holder keeping everything as NOSE DOWN vertical as possible. Because it's never known exactly how much room will be needed for our nose weight it's a very good idea to make the kevlar attachment loop a bit oversized extending at least 1/2" beyond the aft end of the shoulder.
After overnight curing...do not rush this process. Remove the masking tape and sand with 120grit papers until you have a smooth fitting extended mass NC shoulder. Works like a champ, I've done this on countless models over the years. The epoxy clad Nwt. generally outlasts the model.

Time to do a little surface prep sanding, bevel the strakes and shoot on a coat or two of cheapy grey primer just to see where we are. Balsa NC may need 3 coats.
That's as far as i've gotten on this one... More as she proceeds.

[Micromeister]

Our Pheonix is now ready for decals, White gloss nosecone and Lt Gull Grey body should show most of the decals.. I'm pretty sure the yellow will be washed out.

[hornet driver]

Kinda cool doing an F-14 and an AIM-54 at the same time. The 54 was a beast at a little over 1000 lbs. I think we only fired 3 in anger--2 did'nt lite--one missed--I could be wrong about that--long time ago--The Iranians claimed some kills with them but it's really doubtful against the target types they claimed. Typically we carried 1---maybe 2, on patrol---The 7 and 9 were the normal diet.

[Micromeister]

Last week got the decals appied and matte clear applied.
got to fly her at saturdays club launch. Very nice flight & recovery into the hey growing next to our launch site. Thought I'd lost it as this stuff is Really thick and about calf high already. As usual I was just a bit quick on the trigger....man these things move so Quick.

[dixontj93060]

Nice build.

[Micromeister]

Thanks dixon!
Very happy to report it flys better then my Estes Phoenix...Straighter UP that is.

[i luv duct tape]

the fillets are perfect! very clean build as always