woo hoo! a lathe

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Zetoyoc

Zetoyoc

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The girl wanted a bunch of custom cones and tubes for her custom rockets. I want what she wants.. So I used it as an excuse to keep an eye out for more tools. I found a barely used Delta Lathe on craigs list. After a two day hassle to meet up with the seller. I have a new tow at a quarter the price :) :)

Now to learn how to use this thing. Untill yesterday I think maybe I tried one once in high school. So off to make wood shavings.

My first attempts at nose cones. not as quick and easy as I first thought especially the part that goes in the tube. But here they are. Usually I would have a rocket inspire a nose cone but i think the third cone i made will inspire the rocket . I'm thinking a circus theme. :D

-Z

edit: I just realized I might not have to fuss with those TLP nose cone hats now :) I little wood a little extra nose weight Yes!

lathe-1096.jpg

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:insertdroolingsmileyfacehere: ;)
It seems to me that nose cones are the most expensive component of a rocket. Guess you won't be having that problem anytime soon! :D
 
What wood did you use? If it's balsa, it looks like you solved some of the tricks. If it's basswood or some other wood here's what you need to know for balsa I got from a guy who has never killed anyone but he has retired some runners.

1. Use sandpaper glued to strips of wood to bring items to final size. I've used emory boards.
2. With that in mind, use really sharp tools to bring the item to within an 1/8" of size or so. You can only sand so much until you discover balsa has a soft side and hard side causing the object to go "out of round."
3. Use really, really sharp tools. I mean really anally sharpened, split a hair on its edge-like sharp. "For balsa? Surely you're kidding?" My name's not Shirley. The balsa will tear and not cut with a dull edge.

My advice is get the stuff spinning good and fast to get a good surface but remember removal is quicker also.

The info above was from a casual conversation I had with Gordon in a sport launch line at NARAM 49 so if I misrepresented or forgot anything, It's my fault entirely. I can't remember much that I'm told, just ask my wife about it.
 
Not sure if you ran into this with the nose cones, but it seemed like every time I turned one, the chuck and spindle would chew up the balsa. I remedied that problem by gluing some hard cardboard pieces on both ends. That solved all my issues with that. 2nd great discovery was that sanding those ends that go in the tube were easier to do using my sanding (popsicle) sticks. I have what might be called the standard size stick and others made with 1/2" wide sticks with different grits. These work really well. Hope you got calipers with that lathe. They go hand in hand. Might want to look into getting a good parting tool also. Those are a real treat for getting that cut off area down to a minimum.
 
Thanks for the great tips. The nose cones are basswood and one is some hard wood poplar maybe. Just stuff I had lying around to practice with. And yes Sharpening the tools that came with it helped and after a bit of trepidation I moved the belt up to it's highest speed and was surprised to find everything easier :) I imagine balsa will still be hard to get right. I may stick with basswood for a while. Anyone need a spalted maple nosecone?

I still need accessories. You always need more accessories right? Nova jaw chuck. Different gouges, skew, ect.. better calipers (used old dial caliper) and of course fancy Popsicle sanding sticks :)

-Z
 
Tolppisouth said:
What wood did you use? If it's balsa, it looks like you solved some of the tricks. If it's basswood or some other wood here's what you need to know for balsa I got from a guy who has never killed anyone but he has retired some runners.

1. Use sandpaper glued to strips of wood to bring items to final size. I've used emory boards.
2. With that in mind, use really sharp tools to bring the item to within an 1/8" of size or so. You can only sand so much until you discover balsa has a soft side and hard side causing the object to go "out of round."
3. Use really, really sharp tools. I mean really anally sharpened, split a hair on its edge-like sharp. "For balsa? Surely you're kidding?" My name's not Shirley. The balsa will tear and not cut with a dull edge.

My advice is get the stuff spinning good and fast to get a good surface but remember removal is quicker also.

The info above was from a casual conversation I had with Gordon in a sport launch line at NARAM 49 so if I misrepresented or forgot anything, It's my fault entirely. I can't remember much that I'm told, just ask my wife about it.
Click to expand...

Sounds about right.
 
At least with balsa or basswood, you'll keep your teeth even if you do spit a piece.

Friend of mine wound up sporting a sore wrist and a tremendous cheekbone shiner when he found a buried rusty nail while turning a walnut table leg.

Way overgrown, he'd been carving that piece an hour or so before he found it with the tool.

He said it dropped him so fast his first thought when he began to have any again was he'd blown a stroke.
 

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