Jig Gallery

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cwbullet

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I have thought about a good idea for the forum. What about a Jig / Tool Gallery to show photos of the gadgets, tools, and Jigs you use to build rockets?
 
I think a jig gallery would be great.

I've learned a lot from fin attatchment jig designs here, and I'm still working on beveling jig concepts. I've seen excellent ones already (particularly one from bradycros) but I'm still not settled on one that works for me. Would love to see other examples.

Marc
 
I just like to see what others use. I really like the HPR-1 jig. I have been looking for one for sale for years since it is no longer made.

The old site is at: https://www.hightechrocketry.com/HPR-1.html

They are still advertised in the back of Sport Rocketry. The HPR-1 and the Rose-Finjig

https://www.hightechrocketry.com/FinJig_mag.html

States that the HPR-1 is currently not available... but, all it appears to be is an expanding mandrel and a plate on a fixed plane (relative to body tube) that slides back and forth on a runner to position it to the OD of the tube.

Hmm. should be able to make one of these, or similar. Most of the main parts could be salvaged from a broken lathe.
 
It is bit more than that. It is more adjustable than any fin jig I have ever seen.
 
I won't have it until tuesday, but i ordered my boy and I the guilitine (sp)? it looks like a fantastic concept, although i guess it isn;t really a jig rather a guide. I have two of the estes guides. not impressed with the quality, but great concept. Love the thread and idea!
 
Is the purpose of this gallery to also include other types of home-made/specialized tools for sanding and securing?

By the first post, I would say yes.

As soon as we get a few more entries (and I catch my breath from this morning) I'll move the thread to the gallery section.
 
Is the purpose of this gallery to also include other types of home-made/specialized tools for sanding and securing?

I would use it for jigs of all types. If it helps you make your motors, rockets, igniters, or what ever. I want to see pictures of it.
 
I think this would count more as a "fixture" than a "jig", but anyway...

I needed a "Vee block" to hold round stock while drilling, cutting, etc. I cut three pieces of corner molding, glued two pieces with the "V" down, then glued the third piece with the "V" up.

Turns out I use this thing all the time to hold tube horizontal while building. I can set it on a box or book to raise it up to clear any fins, etc.

Pics below show constructing the Vee block, and then using it with and angle block and big clamp bolt to drill a hole in the end of an old nose cone.

BTW--those add-on laser finders for finding the drill location are super handy!!!

DSC_2841MR.jpg

DSC_2842MR.jpg

DSC_4326MR.jpg

DSC_4332MR.jpg
 
This is not a jig but it serves a great purpose. It's actually made out of a laboratory dropper that was heated enough and stretched thin enough to make for a less than pin size hole. The purpose for this was to directly apply CA accelerator to the area needed rather than spraying and wasting good accelerator in a lot of unnecessary places. I usually draw some into the dropper before using CA and apply micro drops of accelerator where needed. What I don't use can go back in the bottle.

DSCF2524.JPG
 
Both are simple enough and I can see a use. Thanks for sharing.
 
Here's my fin jig, mandrel & spacers. Have a larger one for standard size models but never took photos of it. This one handles any size model from T2+ Micro Maxx minimum diameter to BT-50 models.

Finally had a chance to take a couple shots of the Larger Standard model Fin jig while adding some new Fin thickness spacers. I'll see if I can add them below. This Larger Jig is 3/8" benelex Phenolic composite (dimensionally stable) sheet decking with Various material Fin thickness spacers, Stainless Thumb nuts and Studs with 6oz Blacksmith Hide leather retainer straps. Rear Tension 1/2" x 1/4" x 20" aluminum bar tightens with Thumbscrews down on the straps around the body to while allowing just enough give in the leather to let the body rotate without effecting alignment.
Works like a dream on models from BT-5 (.544") to BT-101 (3.938") haven't tried anything larger in diameter tho I do have a 5.0" Thin wall tube waiting for a spirit to move me to build a Large scale Gemini-Titan to fit a Revell Gemini capsule I've had stashed in the PMC closet for 10years:)

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b1_Front 8in all Alum parts & shims_02-04-11.jpg

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b2_Front assembled_02-04-11.jpg

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b7_3rd fin on T3 model (no clamp)_02-04-11.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-g1_4Pic Page 1of2 11-13- 09_rework-11-05-13.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-g2_2Pic Page 2of2 11-13- 09_rework-11-05-13.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-f_Strapped Test w fin on table11-09_rework11-05-13.jpg
 
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Not exactly jigs but plate glass plates that serve as precision marking guides along with a few precision ground blocks take alot of the fight out of getting ture parallel "straight" lines on body tubes and can also be used to sanding airfoils for Glider wings & Helicopter rotors.

a_5 Glass plates .125in to .75in_01-28-09.JPG

b_Glass Plates & precesion blocks_01-28-09.JPG

f_Extend line with pencil_01-28-09.JPG

1e_Square up with 1inx1in sanding block_01-28-09.jpg

1g_Continue to finsh shaping_01-18-09.jpg
 
I love the tube cutter. That is fantatsic.

Thanks CW.

The Tube Cutter is made entirely from Scrap pieces I had laying around in the basement. A 19" long piece of 2"x 3" x1/4" alum angle 2" x 2" x 2" x 1/8" alum angle scraps, 3 pieces of 1/2" x 1" alum bar, some machine screws and 3 8-32 x 1" brass thumb screws.
Truely anyone with a hacksaw, electric hand drill, drill bits and a tap can recrate this very accruate tool for under 10 bucks in materials, probly less in wood though it won't last as long or stay as accurate & true.

In nearly 30 years of almost daily use the only maintance is stropping the #2 X-Acto blade every 6 months or so to keep it sharp and a tiny drop of WD-40 on the thumb screw threads.
 
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To Build Flex-Wing Gliders the hardest part is finding or making the deployment spring.

Heres a little 3 pin fixture I designed some time ago to help in producing these springs for use with Flex wings from MMX to as big 30" long spars.
Hope it helps.

The other most helpful building tool is the Flex-wing layout template. a 20" square of .040" aluminum with the Fabric and spar locations scribed into the surface. being aluminum sure takes all the fight out of building multi Gliders.

Flexwing Spring Jig-sm_& springs_09-02-04.jpg

Flex-Wing-a2b-sm_Flexie Springs & Jig Close-Up_02-93.JPG

Flex-Wing-a1a-sm_FlexWing Template(MMX to 14in)_03-18-97.JPG

Flex-Wing-a2a-sm_Flexie materials_03-18-97.JPG
 
One of my homemade fin alignment jigs. Build threads are here and here. I use pieces of aluminum angle for attaching "finlets".

85_fins.jpg

87_fins.jpg

88_fins.jpg

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93_finlets.jpg
 
The rest of my build parts are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday, so tonight I built one of these Fin Jig's. Configured for Med. sized body tubes (2" - 5".) The only "improvements" I made were ---

1) 1/4" x 5" Eye Bolts w/ washers and wing nuts -- this was done so I could change out shims without using any tools.

2) Lined the angle cuts with sticky backed felt -- this was done so if I ever needed to do a fin repair w/ a painted tube I wouldn't scratch the paint job. (I had the felt scraps --- reason for 2 different colors).

Most of the parts were laying around but I did go to Home Depot and picked out the straightest, flatest, best piece of 2 x 6 I could find.

(Note: shims not installed in pic)

FinJigBolts.jpg

FinJigTop.jpg

FinJigBottom.jpg
 
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The rest of my build parts are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday, so tonight I built one of these Fin Jig's. Configured for Med. sized body tubes (2" - 5".) The only "improvements" I made were ---

1) 1/4" x 5" Eye Bolts w/ washers and wing nuts -- this was done so I could change out shims without using any tools.

2) Lined the angle cuts with sticky backed felt -- this was done so if I ever needed to do a fin repair w/ a painted tube I wouldn't scratch the paint job. (I had the felt scraps --- reason for 2 different colors).

Most of the parts were laying around but I did go to Home Depot and picked out the straightest, flatest, best piece of 2 x 6 I could find.

(Note: shims not installed in pic)

That turned out very nice!
 
Very nice. I like it. Are the cords elastic.

Approximately 36" of 1/4" elastic. I tied and shrunk wrapped a loop into each end so I can remove the elastic and also go around as many of the little hooks as I feel necessary.
 
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