LOC Precision V2 4" Build Questions...

First,... I'm a NOOB to the site and MPR/HPR. This will be my first non-estes rocket. Thanks for your patience.

I have a fair bit of modeling experience and fiberglass experience.

I placed this here (MPR section ) as I intend on using F/G's to start,... before (perhaps) moving on to higher impulse motors.

I'd like to make this model sturdy... Any advice that you guys can offer on upgrading the shock cord H/W... motor retention HW... glassing the tube... or anything else would be greatly appreciated.

I tried to search,... but LOC and V2 are too short to search.

THX

Quaranta said:

First,... I'm a NOOB to the site and MPR/HPR. This will be my first non-estes rocket. Thanks for your patience.

I have a fair bit of modeling experience and fiberglass experience.

I placed this here (MPR section ) as I intend on using F/G's to start,... before (perhaps) moving on to higher impulse motors.

I'd like to make this model sturdy... Any advice that you guys can offer on upgrading the shock cord H/W... motor retention HW... glassing the tube... or anything else would be greatly appreciated.

I tried to search,... but LOC and V2 are too short to search.

THX

Click to expand...

I built the same kit as my first mid-high power rocket. It will be tough to get it to fly on F's if you don't keep it light and build light. I added an aeropack motor retainer and added an eye bolt to the top centering ring for the shock cord. I also replaced the elastic code with tubular nylon. Because of the plastic boat tail and thin fins, fiberglassing it might save some cracked fillets and chipped fins from touch downs. But adding that additional weight will limit you to bigger motors. Also remember, any weight added to the tail will effect the weight needed in the nose. I have the 4 &5.5" loc V2's and enjoy them both. Just remember what I said about the weight and don't be afraid to go with a bigger chute to protect those fins. Post build pics.

Hope that helps you out a bit.

Jason

Thanks. I'll definitely glass the fins as well.

Sounds like I'll be going with G's. I'm not planning on making her light. I'm planning on aerotech single use. can you recommend something? Is a G40-4 sensible? do I need a longer delay (the G40-7)?

Is glassing the tube necessary or overkill?

On MPR, glassing the tube is almost always overkill, unless you're using a very soft and flexible tube like a paper towel tube.

Glassing the fins is going to be for durability only. You won't find a F or G motor that will tear fins off a V2 model. You can protect the fins from landing damage by using a bigger chute. Just be very careful what size fields you fly on and how strong the winds are.

Glassing fins vs. larger chute? That's a question only you can answer. Glassing the fins means more weight and less altitude. Unglassed fins and larger chute means higher altitude but more drift.

Good luck how ever you deside to go.

I have build the same kit and a short delay is highly recommend G40-4 would
be good choice the -7 will be close to a lawn dart, my F40-4 had a bonus
delay (I found this is not uncommon with composite motors) and became a
lawn dart.

I also changed out the elastic cord for nylon and use a forged eye mounted
on the top CR for attachment.

I used a Loctite toughened epoxy for the fin fillets and did not have crack
with the lawn dart episode.

Make sure you mix the lead shot well with epoxy before pouring it in the nose cone.

I don't think you will need anything special like glassing on the 4" V-2. The model in the picture is a (very crude, I'm afraid)scratchbuilt prototype 4" V-2 that predates the Loc offering by quite a bit. The materials are about the same except for the Ace cones for the nose and boat tail. The fins are 1/8 ply with no glassing and just epoxy fillets to the boat tail. There is a fair amount of lead in the nose, as the model was supposed to balance with a 38mm RMS 480n motor in the back. (I got voted down on my original 29mm motor mount) This made the minimum motor about a G-80 and made it come down a little fast on the chutes I used to use.
Nonetheless, this example made many successful flights on motors such as the Propulsion Industries H-140 and I-285 without any trouble whatsoever. Some of the fillet to boat tail joints show cracks after 20 years, but the fin to motor tube joint is strong and the model could still fly.
I vote for no glass for the tube and fins. I don't think you need it, and I think with most reasonable motor selections, you would run out of stability long before you ran out of strength in the basic unglassed loc kit.

Thanks very much guys. Very helpful.

One thing with the V2 is that it a short fat rocket. To help with not have to add a lot of nose weight the motor tube comes out pretty far. I built one a few years ago but I mounted the motor tube flush to the rocket and cut the base off the nose cone and put a bulkhead into the nose cone and added about a pound of bbs with jb weld. I also got some light weight 2 part foam and put it in the fin can. I launched it on a I and the flight was good but the parachute fouled and it dropped from about 3000+ feet without any damage to the rocket except a couple fin fillets broke. The nosecone took a lot to get it out of the ground. The fins are made out of good aircraft plywood and dont need to be glassed. To fix the fillets I clean the joint and drilled small holes down the can and the ran epoxy so it would fill in the holes like rivets havent had any probles since.

I don't know if anyone will see this as this thread is 5 years old but here goes. Those of you who built the 4" as opposed to the 5.54" what influenced your decision? I would like to build one but I would like to keep my costs reasonable. I like the cost of the rocket and its motors with the 4" but it's also nice to go big or go home. On the 5.54" version would you glass the fins or the body tube? I know everyone said that on the 4" it's not needed.

Rocket2Russia said:

I don't know if anyone will see this as this thread is 5 years old but here goes. Those of you who built the 4" as opposed to the 5.54" what influenced your decision? I would like to build one but I would like to keep my costs reasonable. I like the cost of the rocket and its motors with the 4" but it's also nice to go big or go home. On the 5.54" version would you glass the fins or the body tube? I know everyone said that on the 4" it's not needed.

Click to expand...

Unless flying on L or bigger motors the only things FG adds is durability (good) and weight (bad for using more economical/smaller motors).