Safe nose cone paint stripping??

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neond7

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Any safe way to strip a botched paint job on a nose cone without ruining it??

Last week I shot Krylon primer on my LOC IV nose cone, waited a few days, then shot Krylon gloss white paint. Waited a few more days to cure. Looking great! Last night I shot some Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel on it..... bubble and crinkles galore!!!

I had done the same thing a few weeks ago, primer, paint, with the only difference being I first shot a few coats of Krylon Fusion clear over it. A few days later, unimpressed with the gloss on the Krylon Fusion clear, I put a few coats of the Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel over it and the finish was fantastic with no problems.

Is there any safe way to strip the current botched paint job without ruining the plastic? I've tried scrapping and sanding......what a mess. :( I'm afraid to use anything like a solvent, unless you guys know of a safe one to use??

Once I redo it, I picked up some Krylon Fusion white (for plastic) that I will use with no primer..... and then give it a few coats of fusion clear before applying the Rustoleaum clear enamel. Seems the Fusion clear protects the paint under it from the enamel and they appear to play nice.

Now I now why they put the word "pain" is in "paint".............:y:
 
Wet sand it.

On to the cause: you are spraying your clear too heavy at one time. Clear dries very fast and conducts alot of surface heat in doing so. That's why your paint is krackling. Practice restraint and hit it with many many light coats. Not two or three but ten or twelve to get the results you desire.
 
Ah, that would explain it. I was heavy with the paint hand last night, I was running out of daylight and was in a hurry to get out to dinner.

Thank you for the info, I'll be much more careful next time!!
 
Wet sanding would be the safest remove the paint. It will tend to roll up on the paper because it has not fully cured yet. Just don't let gum up the paper by dipping or what ever method you use to wet sand.
Start with 320 until you break through to the primer. Use 400 to remove the primer. Lightly go over the plastic with 600. Single sheets of w/d paper can usually be purchase at most automotive stores that cater to auto body repair.

As for the problem, clears are the most compatable in different brands.
Colors are very rarely compatable. Your dry time was sufficient.
Taking it for granted you wet sanded with 1000 grit before spraying the clear I'd say you had a non-compatable reaction. Next attempt, spray a couple of light coats of krylon clear and let dry for 36 to 48 hours. Break the gloss with 1000 wet sanding and you should be fine as with your other project you mentioned. Or, use Rustoleum from start to finish.

Krinkeling (veebeling) is cause by letting the paint flash, but not completely dry before recoating and it pulls the solvents from beneth the flashed off top layer. It's a form of "lifting". If you rub the krinkles when wet, you will see what I mean. You will rub off the flashed top layer and under area will be gummy, not cured yet. That's why the manufactures recommend waiting at least 24 hours if you recoat with minutes of each coat. And always sand between primer, color and clear.

The bubbles is usually and indication of improperly prepared sufface. I've seen paint bubble before when that was the case, but it was due to putting in direct sunlight right after spraying.
 
Rusto clear will do the same thing. In fact, my info came directly from a Rusto customer service rep.
 
Wet sand it.

On to the cause: you are spraying your clear too heavy at one time. Clear dries very fast and conducts alot of surface heat in doing so. That's why your paint is krackling. Practice restraint and hit it with many many light coats. Not two or three but ten or twelve to get the results you desire.

EL CHEAPO is absolutely right on all counts!! Wet sand and several "LITE" coats of clear. I had the same problem and then I gave in and did the clear in lite coats all within an hour's time according to the can and it worked great! Every 10-15 minutes I applied a lite coat.
 
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If you're set on stripping, plastic modelers use Easy Off spray oven cleaner to strip paint without melting the underlying plastic. Google it
 
I'll try the Easy Off Oven cleaner tonight - the sanding has been very slow going.

I did a few (light) coats of the Krylon Fusion clear over the (purple) fusion paint on my LOC IV last night. Me thinks I'll give up on that stuff, it came out very "dull" and rough feeling. I'll put a few more slightly heavier coats on tonight, hopefully it will start to look glossy and clear. If it doesn't give me the finish I want, I'll cross my fingers and spray a few coats of Rustoleum clear Enamel over it tomorrow.
I hear people mention using Future floor cleaner mixed with 1/4 Simple Green. Can this be mixed up in a spray bottle and misted on, or would it need to be applied with an air gun?? Anything to get a deep glossy finish. I hate painting!!!!
 
If you're set on stripping, plastic modelers use Easy Off spray oven cleaner to strip paint without melting the underlying plastic. Google it

X2 ,will not harm polypropylene plastic ,works fast and cheap ,work outside if you can.

If you`re immortal ,sanding is good too :wink:

Paul T
 
If you're set on stripping, plastic modelers use Easy Off spray oven cleaner to strip paint without melting the underlying plastic. Google it

What! I had to wait all these years to hear of this little gem. Man this tip would saved me a bunch of sanding over the years. Thanks:)
 
I have used straight acetone to strip the paint off of many plastic nose cones. Aerotech, Loc, etc with no issues at all. I have soaked a rag (dripping) with acetone then rubbed the paint off the nose. Other times I have put the nose cone in a bucket and poured acetone over it and used a brush to strip (disolve) the paint right off. Quick and easy.

...Fudd
 
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