EXTREME WILD THANG

[atxcple]

Well it is time for a build thread on one of the new WILDMAN KITS
The EXTREME WILD THANG

This is a fiberglass 4 inch Dual Deploy Kit with a 76mm motor tube

The proverbial parts list first from the Wildman site.

This 4" diameter Fiberglass kit will push the limits to the extreme.
It was designed to take any 75mm motor available.
The Kit Includes
52" long booster
24" long payload
12" long coupler
switch band
75mm motor mount
4-5-1 nose cone
centering rings
high quality tubular nylon
kevlar bridal
welded eyebolts
quick links,washers,nuts,ect.


now i got mine during the Black Saturday sale so it didnt have some of the things listed above.

[chadrog]

I love the fin cut outs. Should give a nice whistle.

[atxcple]

This kit is designed to take the largest motors available
First thing you should do when you first open this kit is to wash all the fiberglass parts with soap and water to remove all of the dust inside and out.
Test fit all your parts to see where sanding may be needed. (fins in the fin slots, centering rings onto the motor mount tubes, Ect.)


The new spiral wound nose cone is supplied with this kit:

If your nose cone comes with coupler installed: it is NOT glued in! You must remove it and prep for permanent installation!

First wash or wipe all the dust from surfaces of the NC & coupler [short one] so glue sticks.

Slide coupler in to where it begins to stop. It should be approximately 3- 4 inches. Mark around coupler with pencil/pen. This will give you area to be sanded in front (pointy side) of marks.

Slide the end of the shoulder that is not going to be glued into the nose cone into the lower airframe at the finslots to use them as a guide for shearpin spacing. mark with a sharpie

Sand inside of NC & outside of coupler where they will contact each other with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.

i wrap a couple of turns of painters tape around the shoulder right on the line you drew for the shoulder depth. this will help to remove any epoxy that leaks out when you slide the shoulder into the nosecone.

mix some epoxy per the instuctions on the package. spread epoxy around the inside edge of the nosecone. then with a twisting motion to spread the epoxy insert to shoulder to the tape or line you made. set aside to dry.

[atxcple]

next up.


Avionics bay:
Sand 1 side of 4 BP's [2 large-2small] stack one large on
eyebolt, sanded side up. Add few drops of glue. Place smaller
BP on top, sanded side down. Repeat on other eyebolt OR stack
the other 2 on same eyebolt. Don't glue all 4 together! Let cure.

Stack all BP's for this step on one eyebolt. This will keep all the holes
aligned. Mark 3/8 in. from edge of larger BP in 2 places,180
degrees from each other. Drill holes for tie rods with ¼ inch bit.
Then mark 3/4 inch from edge for ejection charge holes.
Drill 1 or 2 holes with 1/8 bit, depending on whether you are
using 1 or 2 altimeters.
1/8 in. size holes are perfect for E-match leads. If using terminal
blocks, or other means, size holes according to wire gauge.

Place 1 nut and 1 washer on eyebolt, insert through one BP set, add 1
washer & 1 nut. Tighten, adding a drop of CA or epoxy on
threads and nut, will insure they will never loosen. You can also
add a lock washer to the assembly if you desire. [On inside]

next take the av bay (12inch long coupler) and switch band. i measure the mid point. then even distance on either side of the midline. wrap a wind of tape around coupler on ouside of either line. sand outside of coupler between lines with 80 grit and inside of switch band with 80 grit sand paper. spread epoxy in between lines and with a twisting motion slide the switch band on stopping at the tape. set aside to dry tape side down. once the switch band is dry, i sand one end of the av bay and one end of the payload bay (airframe) with 80 grit sandpaper. mix some more epoxy. spread the epoxy about 1/2 inch inside the edge of the payload bay airframe. again with a twisting motion to spread the epoxy i insert the av bay in all the way to the switchband and let dry.

[atxcple]

av bay pictures continued:

[UPscaler]

How about a red and black paint job?


Wait a second! I'll get to see this in person!




Braden

[atxcple]

on to the motor mount
i layed the motor tube beside the airframe to mark where the finslots end just as a reference for the upper centering ring. next i grabbed one of the three centering rings, where I first filed two notches into the inner edge of the ring opposite of each other to allow for the Kevlar bridal. I then placed the Kevlar strap into position with 4-6inches on each side of motor mount tube and taped into place . Slide the notched CR over strap and into position about 1/8 from top of tube. Tack with a drop of CA. Make sure there are no twists and strap lays out flat. i tie a loop end the end of the strap to attach recovery harness. i like mine to sit outside the fincan a little. others say to have your loop just inside the edge of the fincan. I then spread epoxy under the strap on the motor tube. And then a bead of epoxy around the inside edge of the centering ring motor tube joint.
Next I chose to double up the next two centering rings for the aeropac retainer. I did this to give the self tapping screws I use a little more material to bite onto. I slid the two rings onto the aft end of the motor tube till they were flush and tacked into place with CA. I then grabbed my 76mm Loki case and inserted it thru the aeropac into the motor mount and screwed the cap on. This helps to insure that I have the retainer centered as I use the bolt on versions. I mark my holes with a sharpie so I can drill a pilot holes. I then mixed more epoxy spread a bead between the centering ring and motor tube. Spread another bead inside the airframe about a inch in front of the finslots. I inserted the motor mount assembly about half way. Spread another bead of epoxy around the inside edge of the end of the airframe and finished inserting the motor mount assembly till the rear centering ring was just past flush. I also made sure that the Kevlar harness was in between the fin slots. As this would interfere with the mounting of the fins.

[atxcple]

two more mount pictures

[atxcple]

fins are last but not least.

these come with a W cutout. they are also beveled for you.

I use 5 min epoxy to tack the fins onto the motor tube. once this sets i use Proline Hi-temp epoxy (the black stuff) to do the internal and external fin fillets. i mix enough to fill 3 syringes (10ml). Drill 3 holes in the airframe close to the fins. then inject a little epoxy into each hole 1/2 syringe on each side of the fins. After all fins are complete i tape the airframe for the external fin filets. mix more expoy, pour it into the valley between the fin and airframe. Using a stir stick i smooth the fillet in one pull front to back. after it starts to set up i remove the tape, and done no to little sanding needed.

first flight is planned on the LOKI L1400 White formula.

[mIcahel]

doesn't look like there will be a problem with your fins wobbling off.

[atxcple]

doesn't look like there will be a problem with your fins wobbling off.

they shouldnt move... this entire build was done with proline 4500 hi temp epoxy.

[atxcple]

Here you go in full paint... just need to order the stickershock decals for it.

[mIcahel]

Here you go in full paint... just need to order the stickershock decals for it.

Beauty. If you squint a little at the photo the rope disappears and it looks like your WTEX is flying through the woods a la Empire Strikes Back speeder chase.

[atxcple]

the new wildman nose cones make painting much easier in my country paint booth

[mIcahel]

the new wildman nose cones make painting much easier in my country paint booth

yeah, you could also zip line it between some trees and make rocket noises if you wanted to see it go in between launches or ran out of motors.

[robbdm]

My Wild Thang Extreme in its backyard suburban paint booth.

I painted it metallic blue, LCOs hate when it disappears into the sky after take off.

Here you go in full paint... just need to order the stickershock decals for it.