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Thread: ? 23 Av-bay

  1. #1
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
    Location
    Savannnah, Ga
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    3,431

    ? 23 Av-bay

    First insert the RRC2 from end marked J2 so battery goes in last. It's a tight fit and the tube will compress the battery clip "locking" it in. Pushing it in from other end battery first is very difficult.
    Tie rods going over & under board. [that's why the straw on rods for insulation]

    The power wire goes through second hole [marked for power] next to charge wire hole. I used .6-.75 bp for apogee and .75- .85 for main. depends on how tight you pack stuff. I used a 24 in chute and 15 ft shock cord on each end. I sent you a 15 ft Kevlar cord that I use. Don't have the other one. Drogueless.

    You should see the terminal block through the square hole.

    Insert coupler with altimeter into av-bay
    Line up rivet holes and insert all 3. use short ones so they don't hit battery or board.
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    Last edited by blackjack2564; 10th February 2012 at 02:54 AM.
    Jim Hendricksen
    L-3 Tripoli 9693 Tap
    ICBM Orangeburg SC
    QCRS Princeton ILL
    MDRA Price Maryland
    Woosh Bong Wisconsin
    "Made" member of Chicago Rocket Mafia
    Rocketry...........an exact science.......but not exactly !!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
    Location
    Savannnah, Ga
    Posts
    3,431
    Slide wire [I used E-match tail] through power hole [farthest up tube] and attach/tape to power wire on Av-bay.

    Line up side with 2 holes in Av-bay with 2 holes on payload. Pull wire through as you insert av-bay.

    Slide into position & insert the longer rivets.[ all I had, short ones are fine all for all if you lose any]

    When powering up at pad I just twisted & taped wire to tube.
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    Jim Hendricksen
    L-3 Tripoli 9693 Tap
    ICBM Orangeburg SC
    QCRS Princeton ILL
    MDRA Price Maryland
    Woosh Bong Wisconsin
    "Made" member of Chicago Rocket Mafia
    Rocketry...........an exact science.......but not exactly !!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
    Location
    Savannnah, Ga
    Posts
    3,431
    I also sent cap head bolts for motor retention. I could only find one cable/mirror clip.

    The way I did it was grind off the corners rounded so they would allow putting motor in by just swinging them out of the way. This also kept them from sticking out the side farther than airframe and I never had to fully remove any thus preventing loss.
    All this is not necessary but I' was anal about this stuff. For spacers I just cut sections on igniter tube supplied with AT re-loads.

    A G-64 will go 1800-2200 ft and flying DD shortens the walk a whole lot.

    H-97 goes 3800-4200. Unless you got eagle eyes you won't see it! Tracker is advised unless you have large flat recovery area. Lol


    Well that's how I did it, you may have another method figured out. Good luck & Semper Fly. this little beauty is a lot of fun. It's flown on H-165 reds. H-180's H-97's and G-'s of all types.

    Anything else just ask.
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    Jim Hendricksen
    L-3 Tripoli 9693 Tap
    ICBM Orangeburg SC
    QCRS Princeton ILL
    MDRA Price Maryland
    Woosh Bong Wisconsin
    "Made" member of Chicago Rocket Mafia
    Rocketry...........an exact science.......but not exactly !!!

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