Titebond, Tenex, and Tips - Oh My! (Glue tips and tricks)

Though I share some things. One thing we don't have is a Glue FAQ in like a sticky (Ha!! Sticky! Get it! :lol thread... oh well...

1) Whoever was the genius that posted about replacing the Elmers Wood Glue tip with a Glue-All or School Glue tip, THANK YOU! Great idea! (See photo)

2) Someone was lamenting the loss of Tenax 7R (IIRC) Plastic welder. I found some on eBay for $5 a bottle. I am not sure if A) that is the stuff people were raving about, B) or two if that is a good price, but I have two now. :blush:

3) I have heard on R/C podcasts that Mercury Adhesives CA is really good. I am not sure what defines 'really good', but being a good sheep, I order three 1oz bottles and some debonder from Atlanta Hobbies. I have not used it yet as I have some Great planes CA to use up first. Just baggie'd it an put in the the freezer for now.

4) Speaking of CA, I bought some tiny plastic pipets on eBay a long time ago. I use needle nose pliers to grab the tip and carefully stretch it. They get really really small/fine. Make a clean cut and they make excellent CA applicators. Of course you have to have a bottle that opens to use a pipet. When they get icky, cut it off and stretch it again. They last for several stretches.

Lets hear more tips. We have dozen of threads that are sticking (sticking... ha :rofl: yes I am easily amused) around on glue. Mine them and paste some links.

Or not...

Jeff you can Get ambroid Pro weld at hobby lobby ect... it's just as good as tenax ,, I use it a lot on my plastic models

Stymye said:

Jeff you can Get ambroid Pro weld at hobby lobby ect... it's just as good as tenax ,, I use it a lot on my plastic models

Click to expand...

Yup ,Tenax 7 is great stuff and Ambroid too.

I strated off with Tenax 7 like Andy ,making model aircraft and used nothing else.I also use the two mentioned for building rocket detail parts from styrene and for the Estes Sat V

Paul T

My Favorite is Tamiya extra thin , it's a little harder to get, great stuff as well !

Yeap!
Amborid Proweld and Plastistrut Proweld seem to be exactly the same solvent welding material, if you like paying those hobby shop prices for that sort of thing.

I prefer Methylene Chloide for most styrene and acrylic plastic assembly. Weld-on 16 for Polycarbonates.


Best tip I can forward on CA's is to keep the bottle capped and as air tight as you can. When not in use seal in a zip lock baggie.
I haven't lost a single bit of Medium Zap CA since I started this habbit.

Micromeister said:

I haven't lost a single bit of Medium Zap CA since I started this habbit.

Click to expand...

My issues with CA is the tips of the bottles crud over long before I have used up the glue. The plastic gets brittle and splits etc. Does anyone have a source for replacement bottles?

Jeff I have plenty , pm me and I'll get some out to you

I tried 'triple' gluing the other day....

I gave the root (3/32 balsa) a thin layer of glue (Titebond II), but instead of waiting for it to firm up, I set the fin on the body tube, and then removed it.

Now, both the fin and the BT had a thin layer of glue.

Again, I glued the root, and set it on the tube, then removed it. A second thin layer on both...

Finally, after a minute or so, a third gluing, just to the root, and then set the fin.

It has not been flight tested yet, but it seems extremely solid.

:2::confused2:

For hinges and carbon fiber rods and odd shaped things that you need to attach, I "sew" them on with a needle and dental floss (lot easier to handle than thread, and comes with it's own cutter, just yank out what you need and slice). Always do at least two wraps. Then just barely touch a drop of thin CA to wick it on. For the most part, whatever you glued will break before the bond breaks.

Downside is it doesn't hold up to sanding very well, so not good for exposed surfaces if you want a clean look.

Just tried the Trim and Moulding Glue for the first time for fillets strictly based on TRFr's input and I am one happy camper! +1 for the glue crew!

A few more CA tips,

one reason for CA getting crusty in the tip , is from making contact with the surface.. those tiny particle of dust and fuzz,get sucked in the tip and and also contaminate the cap.
so if possible try not touching or rubbing the tip across the surface,I know, it's hard not to do. or use disposable extensions.

I've also read storing the bottle upside down between use keeps it from curing in the tip and displaces air in the bottle.

if storing new/used bottles in the fridge let them come to room temperature before opening, otherwise condensation will form inside the bottle, rendering it a solid mass very rapidly.
to be honest ,, NEVER store opened bottles in the fridge.. CA caps are not very air-tight

keep it far away from your kicker bottle,as mentioned ,, ca caps are far from air tight.. storing CA in a baggie or seal-able jar helps somewhat but not 100%.. it's not a vaccume

Great tips! Keep em coming!

I regularly use BSI Ca glue form a local hobby store and have extra botte nozzles/caps. I drop them in a jar of acetone for a little while when I am done with them. They are all in perfect condition with no build up on them at all. I keep my CA in an old mayo container in the fridge. Works like a champ !

gdjsky01 said:

My issues with CA is the tips of the bottles crud over long before I have used up the glue. The plastic gets brittle and splits etc. Does anyone have a source for replacement bottles?

Click to expand...

Jeff:
Your so right on...
A couple of the "tricks" I've been using to keep things flowing are
Keep some small pieces of paper towel on the bench while I'm working. When I set the bottle down just dab off the tip or nose piece with one of these small pieces. Every so often it may be necessary to re-open the tip hole with a small bamboo skewer tip or needle to keep the opening the right size. If you using capillary tubing a music wire that fits can be used to keep it open.
Using these methods I actually refilled a 4oz Zap medium CA bottle 3 times before I broke off the nose to short to reuse.