TLP Gabriel III/AS build

Up next is the Israeli anti-ship missile ,the Gabriel III/AS.

The parts are typical TLP ,good non warped hard balsa wood ,cardstock fin templates and nosecone extension.

There really just is not that much on this missile on the web nor any good or useful pictures ,so I guess it`s kept pretty secretive ,and no surprise there.

The big difference with this kit ,that all the others I`ve built so far did not have ,are the way the forward fins are made.

The fins are very 3 dimensional ,with facets like a diamond you could say.To achieve their shape ,you need to make a framework ,then skin them with heavy cardstock patterns you cut out and fold.There will be much cutting of parts ,and as usual ,I`ll use basswood instead of balsa.You then glue the cardstock covers over the framework and coat the skins with thin CA or in my case,finishing epoxy.

This build will be a new learning curve for me, so new building skills will be learned and perhaps even screwed up.....we`ll see (I`ll cut extra fin cover skins)

Paul T

On with the build.

Hope you like it

A shot of the aft fin template ,nosecone extension ,tailcone and fin skin.

All the parts have to be cut out from a piece of heavy cardstock.It`s pretty important to be accurate when cutting out the NC extension and tailcone for proper fit when rolling into shape and fitting to the CRs etc.

Paul T

Here`s a better shot of the fin skins.The instructions say to run a ballpoint pen along the lines to create creases to aid in folding.

I used a large blunt needle that came with my Xacto kit ,worked great !


Paul T

These are the major kit parts.

Paul T

And the lumber part of the kit.As I said ,the Balsa is good quality ,straight and nothing warped and nice and hard where it counts.

That`s the coupler at the bottom right.It`s the only thing I don`t care for ,so I use my own.

Paul T

This looks like a neat kit... looking forward to your build thread!

Later! OL JR

luke strawwalker said:

This looks like a neat kit... looking forward to your build thread!

Later! OL JR

Click to expand...

It`s like I said JR ,this will be the first time I make this type fin or at least this type of construction.It looks a little intimidating ,at least all the cutting of the framework parts ,and there are plenty !

I think TLP (Chuck B) has a good idea here ,as these fins truly need this shape.It`s contruction technique could very well be used in high power applications quite easily ,just perhaps spruce or even a maple for the frame and then skinned over with a thin mil aircraft grade plywood.

GAWD......now the gears are turning ! LOL

Regards

Paul T

Took a break from the Arcas and did a little rolling of the nosecone extension and the tailcone.

I just use white glue and then clamp until dry.

Just a note when it comes to rolling the tailcone or boat tails for that matter.On the cut out template ,there is a tab that you line up with the other edge and lap it over and glue.Doing this leaves a ridge line that requires careful sanding and filling to make smooth.

I cut off the tab ,and make my own separate one.I cut it about 3/16 wide and the full length of the part ,then draw a centerline and glue this to one of the raw edges and let dry.

When dry ,you simply roll the other raw edge up to the other and glue to the other half of the exposed tab.This makes a nice smooth ,flat joint !

NICE !

It would be nice to do this on the NC extensions ,but it`s just not feasable ,trust me I tried once..........ONCE



Paul T

I did the motor tube awhile ago (nice and simple and thinking involved....nice for a change) but replace the stock motor tube with my own stock of aluminum foil lined ones.These are a little more robust and about 3/4" longer.

I also added an engine block.

Paul T

Before I epoxy the NC extension on ,I pre-drilled a 1/4" hole into the tip.After the pointy little "hat" is glued on and cured, I will pour in some polyurathane Gorilla Glue through the base and into the extension.I will first apply a drop or two of water into the hat ,as this glue cures best in moisture and will foam up nicely ,filling the voids.

In the second picture ,the extension is on but not epoxied ,just for show & tell purposes


Paul T

sodmeister said:

Before I epoxy the NC extension on ,I pre-drilled a 1/4" hole into the tip.After the pointy little "hat" is glued on and cured, I will pour in some polyurathane Gorilla Glue through the base and into the extension.I will first apply a drop or two of water into the hat ,as this glue cures best in moisture and will foam up nicely ,filling the voids.

In the second picture ,the extension is on but not epoxied ,just for show & tell purposes


Paul T

Click to expand...

You've given us some good pointers on the tail cone and the pointy nose cone hat. Care to pass along your secret for centering the pointy hat on the nose cone? :sigh:

sodmeister said:

It`s like I said JR ,this will be the first time I make this type fin or at least this type of construction.It looks a little intimidating ,at least all the cutting of the framework parts ,and there are plenty !

I think TLP (Chuck B) has a good idea here ,as these fins truly need this shape.It`s contruction technique could very well be used in high power applications quite easily ,just perhaps spruce or even a maple for the frame and then skinned over with a thin mil aircraft grade plywood.

GAWD......now the gears are turning ! LOL

Regards

Paul T

Click to expand...

I've done a balsa frame fins on a few builds , I covered them with oak venier,, you can score and fold the venier just like card stock and it's only 1/64 thick.. makes for a very light yet strong multifaceted fin with minimal grain.. and it's all wood to wood
so easy wood glue construction

you can see it in action here..lol
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Honest John 29mm/

have you found any pics of the real thing? ...after lots of searching online, I only found one !

Stymye said:

I've done a balsa frame fins on a few builds , I covered them with oak venier,, you can score and fold the venier just like card stock and it's only 1/64 thick.. makes for a very light yet strong multifaceted fin with minimal grain.. and it's all wood to wood
so easy wood glue construction

you can see it in action here..lol
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Honest John 29mm/

have you found any pics of the real thing? ...after lots of searching online, I only found one !

Click to expand...

That is an excellent way to make built up fins. Thank you for taking the time to sharing your technique.

Stymye said:

I've done a balsa frame fins on a few builds , I covered them with oak venier,, you can score and fold the venier just like card stock and it's only 1/64 thick.. makes for a very light yet strong multifaceted fin with minimal grain.. and it's all wood to wood
so easy wood glue construction

you can see it in action here..lol
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Honest John 29mm/

have you found any pics of the real thing? ...after lots of searching online, I only found one !

Click to expand...

Pictures....no sir ,just the same old (and few) ones ,and of no help.

Artistic license and some carte blanche will have to do

That`s exactly what I`ll do next time the fins demand that type of airfoil.I would actually look forward to building fins using that constrution technique....good fun me thinks ! I can`t seeing it being that hard at all ,as I`ve done some pretty complex furniture building and veneer work.

Thanks for posting those pictures BTW !

Regards

Paul T

bradycros said:

You've given us some good pointers on the tail cone and the pointy nose cone hat. Care to pass along your secret for centering the pointy hat on the nose cone? :sigh:

Click to expand...

I usually half eyeball and half mark with pencil.

I`ll put on the NC ext. and take various measurements around the circumference.When I get all the same measurements...or at least very close ,I`ll put little tic marks all around ,then slap `er on and then do a little bit of the `ole lazy eye routine.

Seems to work OK

Paul T

It`s now time to fit the motor exhaust tube into the rolled tail cone.I did a dry fit first ,setting the TC on a thick heavy piece of plate glass then pressing the tube down into it.The fit should be just tight enough so it will not slide off ,if it does...well I don`t know...lots of glue ? If it`s too tight ,trim a LITTLE off the bottom circumference.....a LITTLE at a time ,cannot stress that enough !!

I got lucky ,the fit was perfect

I then removed the exhaust tube from the TC ,applied glue to the contact points and slid the tube back in ,making sure it is nice and square/perpendicular.I did place a piece of wax paper down on the glass ,so the glue would not stick to it (5 min.epoxy...but white glue is what you should use.....but that`s me )

Paul T

sodmeister , did you say once you had a lathe of some type?or may be it was someone else
I have a little mini lathe that I have been making the 'tlp hats' out of hardwood dowel.. it negates some or all of the clay and gets some weight out to the tip.
I fill and sand them right on the lathe..it could be done with balsa on a drill press also.
I never had any issues with the tlp way tho.it works fine also

Stymye said:

sodmeister , did you say once you had a lathe of some type?or may be it was someone else
I have a little mini lathe that I have been making the 'tlp hats' out of hardwood dowel.. it negates some or all of the clay and gets some weight out to the tip.
I fill and sand them right on the lathe..it could be done with balsa on a drill press also.
I never had any issues with the tlp way tho.it works fine also

Click to expand...

I have a Taig metal lathe/milling machine.But I don`t have a problem with the extensions ,as a matter of fact ,it`s become second nature now.My adding the finish cure epoxy coating inside and out and the polyurethane Gorilla Glue pretty much takes care of most of the weight needed.

Paul T

The nosecone extension was brushed on the inside with a liberal amount of 20 min. finishing epoxy ,and then brushed again until the fibers are saturated.The whole thing is then carefully placed on top of the styrene nosecone and aligned until it`s all squared up.At this point some of the epoxy will seep from the joint ,that`s good ,I just wipe away the excess with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol ,then set aside until fully cured (48 hours is a good bet)

NOTE**** - before the extension was put in place ,the styrene nosecone was sanded with 80 grit sandpaper and washed dwon with alcohol before sanding and after.This gives the epoxy a place to adhere to.

Paul T

On to the tail cone ,the CRs are glued in place (one near the end of the tail cone large end and one near the end of the exhaust tube....visible)

And the whole part brushed with finishing epoxy.You could also use super thin CA as mentioned in the instructions ,I prefer epoxy.

The part will be allowed to cure before any further work can be done.

Paul T

Nosecone & tail cone assembly and the epoxy I like to use for this process.

Parts will be allowed to cure for a couple of days.

Cheers


Paul T

Another awesome build to watch! sweet! keep'em coming.


TA

thobin said:

Another awesome build to watch! sweet! keep'em coming.


TA

Click to expand...

Thanks chum !

It`s a comming

Now how about that Hercules you`re building......I`m comming to check !


Paul t

sodmeister said:

It would be nice to do this on the NC extensions ,but it`s just not feasable ,trust me I tried once..........ONCE

Paul T

Click to expand...

Got a flat spot??

I've tried that before too and ended up with a cone with a flat spot the width of the strip underneath...

Not good...

Love doing transitions that way though...

Later! OL JR

sodmeister said:

I usually half eyeball and half mark with pencil.

I`ll put on the NC ext. and take various measurements around the circumference.When I get all the same measurements...or at least very close ,I`ll put little tic marks all around ,then slap `er on and then do a little bit of the `ole lazy eye routine.

Seems to work OK

Paul T

Click to expand...

I'm gonna have to start hunting yard sales for old turntables... this would work PERFECT for this sort of thing!!!

Glue a bit-0-tube to a disk that would go on the turntable, pop the nosecone into it, and then turn it on... use a pencil to put some "guide lines" on the nosecone in the proper locations around the nosecone area where the cone will go... then of course once the glue is applied and the paper cone is sitting on the nosecone, turn the thing on and gently "nudge" the cone around til it's perfectly centered and not "wobbling" as the cone spins...

I'm gonna have to do something like this for some escape towers I'll be building in the near future...

Anybody got any old record players?? LOL

Later! OL JR

sodmeister said:

I have a Taig metal lathe/milling machine.But I don`t have a problem with the extensions ,as a matter of fact ,it`s become second nature now.My adding the finish cure epoxy coating inside and out and the polyurethane Gorilla Glue pretty much takes care of most of the weight needed.

Paul T

Click to expand...

Another trick you could use is to drop some BB's down into the paper hat tip... that would move the weight forward some... probably that and the gorilla glue would obviate the need for the clay at all...

They still putting "concrete clay" in the kits?? (I had to work mine for over an HOUR with some water to get it to soften up into something remotely useable on the TLP Maverick I'm building).

Later! OL JR

luke strawwalker said:

Got a flat spot??

I've tried that before too and ended up with a cone with a flat spot the width of the strip underneath...

Not good...

Love doing transitions that way though...

Later! OL JR

Click to expand...

You just can`t make the point on the tab work without getting glue all over and fumbling around and what not.

The layer of finish epoxy on the outside and a good sanding ,then a bit of our favorite...BONDO...takes care of the ridge !

I too actually like transitions ,kind of fun

Take care

Paul T

luke strawwalker said:

I'm gonna have to start hunting yard sales for old turntables... this would work PERFECT for this sort of thing!!!

Glue a bit-0-tube to a disk that would go on the turntable, pop the nosecone into it, and then turn it on... use a pencil to put some "guide lines" on the nosecone in the proper locations around the nosecone area where the cone will go... then of course once the glue is applied and the paper cone is sitting on the nosecone, turn the thing on and gently "nudge" the cone around til it's perfectly centered and not "wobbling" as the cone spins...

I'm gonna have to do something like this for some escape towers I'll be building in the near future...

Anybody got any old record players?? LOL

Later! OL JR

Click to expand...

Might have two turntables and a microphone

Paul T

luke strawwalker said:

Another trick you could use is to drop some BB's down into the paper hat tip... that would move the weight forward some... probably that and the gorilla glue would obviate the need for the clay at all...

They still putting "concrete clay" in the kits?? (I had to work mine for over an HOUR with some water to get it to soften up into something remotely useable on the TLP Maverick I'm building).

Later! OL JR

Click to expand...

Yessir, the rock !

I put the lump into a small parts baggie with a few drops of hot water and seal for 24 hours ,good as new.

That`s the nice thing about that polyurethane Gorilla Glue ,it sticks to anything once cured.Just need to add a drop or two of water for it to cure properly.The BBs or lead shot is a good idea ,I prefer that to the clay ,but it works.

Paul T

sodmeister said:

Yessir, the rock !

I put the lump into a small parts baggie with a few drops of hot water and seal for 24 hours ,good as new.

That`s the nice thing about that polyurethane Gorilla Glue ,it sticks to anything once cured.Just need to add a drop or two of water for it to cure properly.The BBs or lead shot is a good idea ,I prefer that to the clay ,but it works.

Paul T

Click to expand...

Ok I did it the HARD way (pun intended).

Took the concrete clay patties (litterally they were as hard as concrete, even though hermetically sealed in bags... makes no sense! :confused2 out on the porch, smashed them to bits with a hammer, returned to the kitchen, put a little hot water in amongst the smashed powdery bits, and then proceeded to work them against the wall of the small jar for about an hour with a flathead screwdriver, repeatedly smashing the little unbroken hard bits that was making the "gravy" lumpy... LOL After a LONG while, the bits "dissolved" and the 'gravy' was absorbed into them, making clay once again... :kill:I resolved to weigh the baggie and use and equivalent amount of Play-Dough next time...

Course, now I'll have to give your method a shot...

later! OL JR