"Friendship 7" 50th Anniversary Dr. Zooch Mercury Atlas build...

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Luke.....that capsule/fairing turned out great....excellent build thread!

I wrapped up my Skylab.....and decided to start on te Apollo 7 Zooch Saturn 1b my kids got me for my birthday several months ago...I think I am going to try the Mercury Atlas after that...last wek the Doctor's Shuttle came in the mail too....and I have started reading the build threads on that one too (yours will be invaluable) ...looks challenging but really cool when done.
 
Dr. Zooch's Discoverer Thor Agena was a cool bird...hey Doc...any chance that comes back into production??

Here's an oldie but a goodie from the Archive... I forgot about this one...

https://www.rocketryforumarchive.com/showthread.php?t=46511&highlight=flame+fins

See what turns up while you're doing research on Dr. Zooch Flame Fins in the Archives?? LOL:)

(want to see some of those cool "blended" paint jobs that folks put on thier flame fins to see if I can duplicate it... :))

Later! OL JR :)
 

Interesting... why not???

That's a cool kit... mine got somewhat dinged when I flew it on a Quest motor, not knowing that their motors have VERY weak "flea sneeze" ejection charges-- pushed the nose cone (transition) off the tube but didn't kick the chute out... fortunately the damage wasn't TOO bad, but I haven't flown it since... (and like an idiot I figured "oh, it's a FLUKE!" and proceeded to fly my Mark II on a Quest motor and had the same thing happen, on this time the tube bent at the "blowout panels" between the "upper stage" and the rest of the rocket... still haven't fixed that (but I have an idea how to do it). So, lesson learned... only fly the Quest motors I bought in "junk" rockets that I don't worry if the motor casing burns through or the ejection charge is too weak to do anything but push the cone off the tube...

I thought you were reworking the Discoverer Thor for re-release... so it's history now?? Or is it a component thing-- that big balsa transition has to be fairly expensive with the cost rising on balsa I would think...

Just curious! OL JR :)
 
Lil more work done, despite the high winds out here today and cloudy conditions... actually remarkably warm today (got up to about 73 or so-- unheard of for January!-- makes me shudder to think what things will be like in a couple months or so! :eek:) Having to run the A/C in the house just to keep it from getting too stuffy... it's too early for this crap...

Anyway, I picked up some Valspar "Metallic" 85052 Silver yesterday at Lowe's, and shot the rocket with two coats... well, first I did a compatibility test with the paint on the Rustoleum primered bit of spare BT-60 I installed above the Atlas to keep paint out of the rocket body itself (and nosecone shoulder area). This new paint says "recoat anytime" and "quick drying" and the contents on the back list "acetone, ethylbenzene, xylene, petroleum distillates, aluminum, and psuedocumene." Nowhere on the can does it say what the formulation is, whether it's an enamel or a lacquer... but the "quick drying" and "recoat anytime" tells me that either it's a lacquer or it's a HOT enamel... So, rather risking alligatoring the whole rocket, I decided I better do a compatibility test firsthand... after a thick first coat on one side and lighter on the other, and then a pretty heavy second coat (I figured the heavy first coat would be the most likely to attack the underlying primer, and that a light coat might actually work, so I tested both, THEN put a pretty heavy coat on again just to see if it would cause problems with the first coat or underlying primer then-- spaced about 15 minutes apart.) Both coats went on well with no real problems, and dried pretty smooth and even. I have to say, I LOVE the paint, but I DESPISE the stupid "locking can nozzle"... it's innovative, in a way-- you twist the "trigger guard" part surrounding the nozzle to "unlock" the can trigger, and twist it back when you're done to "lock" it again and prevent something from unexpectedly mashing the button... The nozzle itself seems to be the problem-- it's VERY crappy-- it sorta "sputters" or "spits" the paint out, in a mish-mash of VERY coarse almost globule-like droplets, but also a lot of "fines" and mist which the wind of course whipped everywhere today, despite be going behind the house out of the wind to spray... I put a coat on the rocket and thought it REALLY looked crappy-- globby and messy looking, and went over it again because it looked somewhat pebbly or sorta like "dry spray"... Then I thought it was on TOO thick and likely to run, so I was pretty disgusted. I have an old motor casing firmly taped to an old curtain rod I use for a spray handle, and I figured I'd have to "rotisserie" the rocket for a half hour like I did the last Atlas I did, when spraying it with the dreaded Krylon "Chrome in a Can" which turned out to be an absolute nightmare... that stuff went on kinda sloppy and too heavy, but it was VERY runny and it took some VERY careful manuevering of the rocket to keep it from running! Well, I have to say, I was VERY PLEASANTLY SURPRISED when, over the next couple minutes, the stuff seemed to lay down and flow out quite nicely, eliminating the pebbly globby-looking surface when it was first shot, and after about a minute of rolling the rocket on the paint stick it looked like it was well set-- and safe to stand up to dry. I put the rod into a box on the porch to stand out in the wind and dry, while I returned to doing laundry. By the time I got another set of clothes hung on the line, I checked on it and it looked REALLY good... Almost decided not to give it a second coat, but then I thought about it and figured I should just to ensure everything was well covered, so I took it behind the house and shot it again. Same story-- looks too dry and pebbly, then the second pass makes it look to wet and globby, looks like it's thick enough to run, but it doesn't... rolled it 30 seconds or so and stuck it back out to dry, and went in the house. Came back about 20-30 minutes later, and it looked DRY... so I gingerly touched it in an inconspicuous location, and it WAS DRY! :y: Now, maybe it was the 72 degree southwest wind blowing 15-20 today that dried it that quick, but still... that's pretty darn good!
088.jpg
I brought it inside and stuck it, still on the paint stick, in the corner out of the way... I could still smell the smell of paint, so obviously it isn't CURED, but it was dry to the touch, and layed down really well... sort of a "satin" aluminum look-- not quite "chrome" but not just a "metal flake silver paint" look either... it LOOKS like brushed aluminum...
086.jpg
Here's the pics... it was cloudy so the second one is a bit underlit... probably should have gone out in the yard at the least...
087.jpg
Once I can't smell the paint anymore, I'll mask it and paint the LOX tank a frosty-flat-white...

Later! OL JR :)
 
WOW! that turned out fantastic!


Lil more work done, despite the high winds out here today and cloudy conditions... actually remarkably warm today (got up to about 73 or so-- unheard of for January!-- makes me shudder to think what things will be like in a couple months or so! :eek:) Having to run the A/C in the house just to keep it from getting too stuffy... it's too early for this crap...

Anyway, I picked up some Valspar "Metallic" 85052 Silver yesterday at Lowe's, and shot the rocket with two coats... well, first I did a compatibility test with the paint on the Rustoleum primered bit of spare BT-60 I installed above the Atlas to keep paint out of the rocket body itself (and nosecone shoulder area). This new paint says "recoat anytime" and "quick drying" and the contents on the back list "acetone, ethylbenzene, xylene, petroleum distillates, aluminum, and psuedocumene." Nowhere on the can does it say what the formulation is, whether it's an enamel or a lacquer... but the "quick drying" and "recoat anytime" tells me that either it's a lacquer or it's a HOT enamel... So, rather risking alligatoring the whole rocket, I decided I better do a compatibility test firsthand... after a thick first coat on one side and lighter on the other, and then a pretty heavy second coat (I figured the heavy first coat would be the most likely to attack the underlying primer, and that a light coat might actually work, so I tested both, THEN put a pretty heavy coat on again just to see if it would cause problems with the first coat or underlying primer then-- spaced about 15 minutes apart.) Both coats went on well with no real problems, and dried pretty smooth and even. I have to say, I LOVE the paint, but I DESPISE the stupid "locking can nozzle"... it's innovative, in a way-- you twist the "trigger guard" part surrounding the nozzle to "unlock" the can trigger, and twist it back when you're done to "lock" it again and prevent something from unexpectedly mashing the button... The nozzle itself seems to be the problem-- it's VERY crappy-- it sorta "sputters" or "spits" the paint out, in a mish-mash of VERY coarse almost globule-like droplets, but also a lot of "fines" and mist which the wind of course whipped everywhere today, despite be going behind the house out of the wind to spray... I put a coat on the rocket and thought it REALLY looked crappy-- globby and messy looking, and went over it again because it looked somewhat pebbly or sorta like "dry spray"... Then I thought it was on TOO thick and likely to run, so I was pretty disgusted. I have an old motor casing firmly taped to an old curtain rod I use for a spray handle, and I figured I'd have to "rotisserie" the rocket for a half hour like I did the last Atlas I did, when spraying it with the dreaded Krylon "Chrome in a Can" which turned out to be an absolute nightmare... that stuff went on kinda sloppy and too heavy, but it was VERY runny and it took some VERY careful manuevering of the rocket to keep it from running! Well, I have to say, I was VERY PLEASANTLY SURPRISED when, over the next couple minutes, the stuff seemed to lay down and flow out quite nicely, eliminating the pebbly globby-looking surface when it was first shot, and after about a minute of rolling the rocket on the paint stick it looked like it was well set-- and safe to stand up to dry. I put the rod into a box on the porch to stand out in the wind and dry, while I returned to doing laundry. By the time I got another set of clothes hung on the line, I checked on it and it looked REALLY good... Almost decided not to give it a second coat, but then I thought about it and figured I should just to ensure everything was well covered, so I took it behind the house and shot it again. Same story-- looks too dry and pebbly, then the second pass makes it look to wet and globby, looks like it's thick enough to run, but it doesn't... rolled it 30 seconds or so and stuck it back out to dry, and went in the house. Came back about 20-30 minutes later, and it looked DRY... so I gingerly touched it in an inconspicuous location, and it WAS DRY! :y: Now, maybe it was the 72 degree southwest wind blowing 15-20 today that dried it that quick, but still... that's pretty darn good!
View attachment 68704
I brought it inside and stuck it, still on the paint stick, in the corner out of the way... I could still smell the smell of paint, so obviously it isn't CURED, but it was dry to the touch, and layed down really well... sort of a "satin" aluminum look-- not quite "chrome" but not just a "metal flake silver paint" look either... it LOOKS like brushed aluminum...
View attachment 68702
Here's the pics... it was cloudy so the second one is a bit underlit... probably should have gone out in the yard at the least...
View attachment 68703
Once I can't smell the paint anymore, I'll mask it and paint the LOX tank a frosty-flat-white...

Later! OL JR :)
 
WOW! that turned out fantastic!

Still got to make the tanks frosty... so another coat, this time flat white. That's why I want to make sure the aluminum is REALLY dry... Have to mask off with Tamiya tape around the LOX line and long fairing, then around the body tube just above the short fairing tip.

I did a slight goof and glued the capsule adapter onto the balsa transition (LOX tank conical section) before I painted either of them. A steady hand with a sable-hair fine point brush and Testors flat black took care of the adapter section... and the red-ringed capsule adapter ring that attaches the capsule to the adapter section (the multi-layer paper band the capsule butts up against). But the conical upper tank, being flat white, had to be sprayed to look right... SO I broke out the Tamiya fine-line tape I bought at the hobby shop last time I was in Sugarland and gave it a whirl... folks on here have raved about how good it is, and they're right... I put a wrap around the bottom of the adapter section over the corrugated mylar, and using a slightly sanded (rounded) pointed tip of a bamboo skewer, carefully burnished the tape down into every corrugation in the mylar, and around the long line fairing coming up the side of the adapter from the conical LOX tank transition below... then I went over that with some blue painters tape just to cover the rest of the transition and keep the paint off it, popped an old Alpha III nosecone into the adapter and ran some tape around it to seal the adapter section off completely. Also ran a wrap of blue painters tape around the transition shoulder where it slips into the top of the rocket. Then shot the LOX tank balsa transition with Walmart Colorplace Flat White... I LOVE this paint! (and it's nozzles!) At 99Cents a can it's hard to beat, and does a good job! I shot a couple coats of white on the transition and let it dry... Soon as it had tacked up really well (hour or so) I peeled the tape off it, pulled the nosecone off and carefully pulled the tape off the adapter section, since the blue tape is a little stickier and I didn't want to risk peeling paint off the paper band or the mylar, and then carefully peeled the Tamiya tape... it did a terrific job and I've got a clean black/white line like I had done it the way I was supposed to-- paint the mylar capsule adapter black and paint the LOX tank white (or silver if one is so inclined) and THEN glue them together afterwards...

I finally glued the Friendship 7 into position atop the adapter, carefully clocking it to the fairing line coming up the transition and adapter...

Tomorrow it's check cows, and hopefully after I get back, get the masking done and ready to paint the upper rocket body LOX tank flat white with frost... Plus I need to get started with painting the Flame Fins...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Interesting... why not???

I thought you were reworking the Discoverer Thor for re-release... so it's history now?? Or is it a component thing-- that big balsa transition has to be fairly expensive with the cost rising on balsa I would think...

Just curious! OL JR :)

Cost of parts vs. past sales record. In order to make what was a slow seller to begin with, earn its way, or for that matter even be worth the cost of keeping stocked, I'd have to move the price up to that of the Shuttle. At that price it simply will not sell- heck it didn't sell when the economy was good. You are correct, the big transition is the killer.
 
Did something rather stupid...

Masked the rocket off to paint the frosted white LOX tank, which means masking off around the LOX line (which must be insulated since it didn't frost over) and the long fairing on the "right" side of the booster, which doesn't frost over either obviously... Gave it a couple coats of white paint and brought it inside, let the paint harden up a little while, and then pulled the masking off... without realizing that I had painted it GLOSS white, not FLAT white like I did the conical upper LOX tank section (balsa transition) a few days ago... :mad::rant::bang:

SO, I had to REMASK it and reshoot it with FLAT white... :rolleyes:

HOPEFULLY it'll be ready to unmask in a little while...
In my defense though, the Walmart Colorplace paint uses little stickers affixed to the can to tell you the color, in conjunction with the cap finish and color... I guess I mixed up a gloss cap with a flat cap, and the stickers tend to dry out and fall off... so I took the Sharpie pen and wrote "FLAT" on the flat can and "GLOSS" on the gloss can...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Its OK Luke....still better than my mistakes....on the Doc's Titan, I put a booster wrap on upside down...was all proud of myself until the next day and I realized ....why is that different?? and how could I have not noticed that?? I had a back up wrap that I had made, but my printer won't match the original wraps....the black isn't as black as the original...

I can't wait to see how your Atlas turns out. did you have any problems with the aluminum paint and masking? sometimes feel that silver paint doesn't tolerate tape....

Did something rather stupid...

Masked the rocket off to paint the frosted white LOX tank, which means masking off around the LOX line (which must be insulated since it didn't frost over) and the long fairing on the "right" side of the booster, which doesn't frost over either obviously... Gave it a couple coats of white paint and brought it inside, let the paint harden up a little while, and then pulled the masking off... without realizing that I had painted it GLOSS white, not FLAT white like I did the conical upper LOX tank section (balsa transition) a few days ago... :mad::rant::bang:

SO, I had to REMASK it and reshoot it with FLAT white... :rolleyes:

HOPEFULLY it'll be ready to unmask in a little while...
In my defense though, the Walmart Colorplace paint uses little stickers affixed to the can to tell you the color, in conjunction with the cap finish and color... I guess I mixed up a gloss cap with a flat cap, and the stickers tend to dry out and fall off... so I took the Sharpie pen and wrote "FLAT" on the flat can and "GLOSS" on the gloss can...

Later! OL JR :)
 
makes perfect sense to me....you still have a selection of kits that is not matched! (no one is close..)

I didn't realize that balsa was getting expensive.

Cost of parts vs. past sales record. In order to make what was a slow seller to begin with, earn its way, or for that matter even be worth the cost of keeping stocked, I'd have to move the price up to that of the Shuttle. At that price it simply will not sell- heck it didn't sell when the economy was good. You are correct, the big transition is the killer.
 
Its OK Luke....still better than my mistakes....on the Doc's Titan, I put a booster wrap on upside down...was all proud of myself until the next day and I realized ....why is that different?? and how could I have not noticed that?? I had a back up wrap that I had made, but my printer won't match the original wraps....the black isn't as black as the original... ....

Dude... you've got Dr. Zooch "I screwed up the wrap" warranty. E-mail me your address and I'll mail you a new set at no charge.
 
Its OK Luke....still better than my mistakes....on the Doc's Titan, I put a booster wrap on upside down...was all proud of myself until the next day and I realized ....why is that different?? and how could I have not noticed that?? I had a back up wrap that I had made, but my printer won't match the original wraps....the black isn't as black as the original...

I can't wait to see how your Atlas turns out. did you have any problems with the aluminum paint and masking? sometimes feel that silver paint doesn't tolerate tape....

You can make your own wraps and decals? Awesome!
 
You can make your own wraps and decals? Awesome!

He didn't say decals... though he might...

I scan in the wrap sheets on the Zooch kits I build too, just in case... but your right-- printing them yourself NEVER yields as black a black or clear as the Doc's originals... BTW, I was gonna mention he's really good about mailing new wraps when you screw up... can't beat that.

The Doc does printed cardstock wraps with tons of detail-- they look REALLY REALLY good and make finishing MUCH easier... As for decals, the only Dr. Zooch kit I know of with decals is the Saturn V-- decals for the American flags. I don't know where he gets them, or if he makes them himself...

What's the story, Wes?? I remember you saying you DON'T like decals if you can help it, and that you prefer wraps. I have to say the capsule wraps on the Freedom 7 looks REALLY good... you can even read the "Friendship 7" logo and the font and style are correct... even though it's barely 3/16 of an inch long and just over 1/16 inch high or thereabouts...

Later! OL JR :)

PS. I haven't gotten into doing decals yet either... What's your suggestion for the "109D" on the booster, Wes??
 
Wes,
I appreciate that....you have the best customer service I have seen....there wasn't anything wrong with the wraps you provided in the kit...I just blew it....my problem is known as getitonthepaditis...once the kit starts to come together I just get in a hurry to not only complete it, but fly it. I have to be more patient....that is why I read the build threads that Luke does so carefully (and others...Foose and CMBanjo....and others) but all of these guys are pros...they take their time and are so thorough in their work.. and lots of good tips...someone, I forget now, listed a tip of steaming your LOX tanks on a Saturn Block II that he was building....after struggling with the tanks on my first 1b, that was like getting the answer key on a tough exam.....sure enough...little steam and presto, peice of cake....(I prefer a tea kettle vs a pan, concentrates the steam ....)


Dude... you've got Dr. Zooch "I screwed up the wrap" warranty. E-mail me your address and I'll mail you a new set at no charge.
 
Luke,
100% agree regarding the Dr. Zooch wraps...they are fantastic....decals can be tricky...I built lots of plactic models back in the day...but some of the manufacturers (Aeromaster was always pretty good...) used to make generic decals...different numbers and lettering in different scales...haven't searched that in years...used to be a shop in Texas called Squadron...they have a web site..maybe they have something?

He didn't say decals... though he might...

I scan in the wrap sheets on the Zooch kits I build too, just in case... but your right-- printing them yourself NEVER yields as black a black or clear as the Doc's originals... BTW, I was gonna mention he's really good about mailing new wraps when you screw up... can't beat that.

The Doc does printed cardstock wraps with tons of detail-- they look REALLY REALLY good and make finishing MUCH easier... As for decals, the only Dr. Zooch kit I know of with decals is the Saturn V-- decals for the American flags. I don't know where he gets them, or if he makes them himself...

What's the story, Wes?? I remember you saying you DON'T like decals if you can help it, and that you prefer wraps. I have to say the capsule wraps on the Freedom 7 looks REALLY good... you can even read the "Friendship 7" logo and the font and style are correct... even though it's barely 3/16 of an inch long and just over 1/16 inch high or thereabouts...

Later! OL JR :)

PS. I haven't gotten into doing decals yet either... What's your suggestion for the "109D" on the booster, Wes??
 
Luke,
100% agree regarding the Dr. Zooch wraps...they are fantastic....decals can be tricky...I built lots of plactic models back in the day...but some of the manufacturers (Aeromaster was always pretty good...) used to make generic decals...different numbers and lettering in different scales...haven't searched that in years...used to be a shop in Texas called Squadron...they have a web site..maybe they have something?

<slaps forehead>

WHY didn't I think of that... if it'd been a snake it'd bit me... :rolleyes::kill:

Course I was JUST in the hobby shop YESTERDAY and didn't think about it... :cyclops::mad:

I was looking for some clear material... had a crazy idea about CLEAR Flame-fins I wanted to try-- but they only had .010 and .040 thick clear stock... the thin stuff is TOO thin for fins but can be rolled into a tube and glued up, and the thick stuff is thick enough for fins, but TOO THICK to roll into a tube to install in the rocket... I wasn't buying TWO sheets because it was going to be about $15 for the pair... and they didn't have ONE sheet of .020-.030 stuff that SHOULD be thick enough for fins, but still thin enough to coax into a tube shape...

Well, that, and I had a "helper" bugging me about wanting a kite (she's got THREE nice big ripstop ones already) or a paint by numbers thingy (she's got TONS of coloring books, paints, and other craft supplies) and I finally managed to shut her up with some glow-in-the-dark silly bands the hobby shop guy gave us after he rang up some .015 music wire and a bottle of foam safe CA I've been meaning to pick up... since he'd already run my card thru for the CA and wire... that was nice of him...

Guess I'll have to make another hobby shop run next week, if I pick up Keira (it's about three miles from her school).

Thanks for jogging my brain there, Rick! Sometimes we just can't see the forest for the trees, ya know!

Later! OL JR :)
 
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Okay...

SO, I'm finally pretty much finished with the Friendship 7... Glued in the shock cord "teabag" mount per the instructions, with its embedded kevlar shock cord, which the other end is tied in a loop, to which the length of elastic cord is tied, which is subsequently tied to the nosecone screw eye, itself having been screwed in with yellow wood glue to ensure it stays put... The standard Dr. Zooch trashbag parachute went together as usual, and is ready to go... I finished the flame fins and painted them white, then followed up with a dusting of yellow and then pumpkin orange to give a 'flame-y' effect sorta like I've seen in some other Zooch builds on TRF... thanks for the great idea, fellas!

The paint is finally dry, just now needs to finish curing over the next few days... today is QUITE warm for this time of year (SCARY warm-- 77 degrees!:eek:) and VERY windy, with heavy clouds coming and going, letting the sun peek through every so often... IOW not a particularly good day to photograph outdoors, but I don't think the weather's promising to be much better for the coming few days, so c'est la vis...

Here's the glamour shots on Pad 14Z ("Z" for Zooch!:D)...
089.jpg090.jpg091.jpg092.jpg093.jpg
Later! OL JR :)
 
Here's a few more pics... the silver paint looks kinda wonky in the overcast, dunno why... shines like a new dime in sunlight...
094.jpg095.jpg096.jpg097.jpg098.jpg
Later! OL JR :)
 
Now here's a few "just for fun" glamour shots... WITHOUT the Flame fins...
I don't want anybody seeing this and saying "oh, look, HE'S flying it without the Flame fins-- so who needs 'em!" and try launching the thing without Flamefins- THIS IS STRICTLY SET UP FOR NEAT PICS, NOT TO LAUNCH... (as Dr. Zooch said in the instructions-- "this disclaimer posted in compliance with the "Americans who are Dense" Act of 1992... :lol:)

ANYWAY, enjoy the pics...
099.jpg100.jpg101.jpg102.jpg103.jpg
Later! OL JR :)
 
Great job, looks so nice, and the launchpad is great too !!!


Thanks for sharing!
 
Luke,
you took the words right out of my mouth..God Speed John Glenn....it looks real..I keep waiting for those verniers on the side to light up! Absolutely gorgeous build..I really like the white and silver contrast...just a beautiful bird. well done and thank you for the awesome build thread!

Rick


 
Luke,
you took the words right out of my mouth..God Speed John Glenn....it looks real..I keep waiting for those verniers on the side to light up! Absolutely gorgeous build..I really like the white and silver contrast...just a beautiful bird. well done and thank you for the awesome build thread!

Rick

Thanks Rick this one's been fun...

I've been toying with the idea of a BT-80 based upscale...

Since I've got the Mercury Atlas now, if I DO upscale it I think I'll do an Atlas-Centaur... that should be a pretty big rocket!

Later! OL JR :)
 
Beautiful work, as always!
That's another one to add to my list.
I've built both the Atlas Agena and Freedom 7 so I guess I'm halfway there!
 
Beautiful work, as always!
That's another one to add to my list.
I've built both the Atlas Agena and Freedom 7 so I guess I'm halfway there!

Thanks Chris...

This is a pretty neat looking kit... I couldn't help trying out the Freedom 7 capsule on the Atlas-Agena when I was building it... looked VERY cool...

Later! OL JR :)
 

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