Evergreen detail parts to body tube-- what glue??

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luke strawwalker

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What glue would you use to attach Evergreen Styrene detail parts to a body tube... like a systems tunnel. Something permanent that will firmly attach and hold styrene to a paper tube...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I'm with Troy - I'd use CA. Of course, if you can hold it in place with tape or something until set, epoxy would hold forever (CA doesn't have much shear strength). Epoxy would be even more effective if you at least scuff th BT with sandpaper, or glue rivets would be even better. With epoxy rivets, the tube will shred before that raceway comes off.
 
hmm, I wonder how fletching cement would work...it does hold plastic 'vanes' onto a wood shaft...
rex
 
I've had great results with Amazing Household Goop, or the similar Amazing All Purpose Goop.

It has enough solvent in it of the right type to melt styrene a bit and form a weld bond. Also adheres well to wood / cardboard. I've used it on several rocket models with success when doing plastic or plastic-wood joints.

It's cheap and available in just about all the big box stores. And it smells lovely! :bangpan:

Marc
 
I`ve use plenty of styrene in my builds ,and epoxy seems to be the ticket for me.I use an exacto plade and cross hatch the back of the part being glues (to add extra bite for the epoxy to key into) or 80-100 grit sandpaper on parts that don`t have the surface area to score with an exacto.

I then clean all mating surfaces with alcohol before epoxying parts.

Nothing has fallen off yet ,even on my HP stuff :cheers:

Paul T
 
I use CA. Works everytime.

Ditto Troy!
I work with Plastistruct & Evergreen styrene sheet, shapes and parts all the time. CA is just fine. If you think you need better bonding Add a light epoxy but it's generally not necessary.

Styrene to styrene (Smoke Scratch built launcher) are MC (Meththylene Chloride) solvent welded... Hobbyist often use Tenax-7R or Ambroid Proweld which are good seconds.

MM 383uc07b_Buck Shot Piping & Port Holes_09-24-11.JPG
 
I`ve use plenty of styrene in my builds ,and epoxy seems to be the ticket for me.I use an exacto plade and cross hatch the back of the part being glues (to add extra bite for the epoxy to key into) or 80-100 grit sandpaper on parts that don`t have the surface area to score with an exacto.

I then clean all mating surfaces with alcohol before epoxying parts.

Nothing has fallen off yet ,even on my HP stuff :cheers:

Paul T


Sodmeister has the best looking builds on TRF. If he says he's using epoxy, I'm gonna use epoxy too.
 
Thanks guys... I appreciate it...

Styrene is one of those things that it's either attached permanently or not at all... :D

Later! OL JR :)
 
Plasti-Zap from Pacer. Good CA for plastic--to-plastic and plastic-to-other bonding. Epoxy works too but doesn't grab the styrene that well without some scuffing. You also gotta get any mold release off the plastic since it releases epoxy real well.
 
I always clean all parts with alcohol.

Best thing still for styrene to styrene are solvents such as tenax7 and similar products.The parts get melted together then evaporates and become as one ,almost like welding plastic.

But indeed ,I`ve also had great success with CA `s


Paul t
 
Use 2 part epoxy on mine. Most of mine have a launch spine---see Timberwolf build-- no problems--TW had some rough glide tests with a ton of tube flex and no sign of fatigue. I think the BT would tear first.Make sure parts are clean and cross hatched
 
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