Best way to fix paint blush?

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Marc_G

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Hi folks,

I laid down some Chinese Red Rustoleum Lacquer today, and it looked beautiful when I put it on, but parts of it dried matte, typical of what has been described as "blush" caused by humidity. I didn't realize it when I sprayed the paint, but we had ~80% humidity at the time, at about 58 degrees F. It was chilling down rapidly, and I was rushing to get paint on, and probably should have waited until another day, warmer and less humid.

Anyway, I'm inclined just to cover it up with a nice coat of clear lacquer (to be shot well within proper painting temp/humidity conditions!) which would presumably slightly melt the surface of the red paint, as successive lacquer coats do, eliminating the surface blush effect. There's no wrinkling or anything awful like that.

I already unmasked the piece (I do this as soon as the paint will let me), but it occurs to me I could also have just laid down another coat of the red (again, within proper weather conditions) to cure it probably as well.

Other thoughts occur to me like color sanding or using polishing compound to bring out a gloss. Though, those seem like more work :eyeroll:

Just curious what you pros do, if you back yourself into this particular corner.

Thanks.

Marc
 
Polishing compound. It's not hard. Putting on coat after coat trying to get a perfect glossy final finish MIGHT work. But polishing WILL bring out high gloss. you just have to wait for the paint to be nice and dry.

Try it. Buy a tub of compound and a bag of cloth diaper material. Or just use an old T-shirt.
 
It's called "Milking". Common in Laquer based paints that no longer have chromates in them, and in high moisture atmosphere, especially when temps are below 70 degrees F. Polishing will bring it to a shine, but it's temerary and won't last.
Coming from almost 20 years of experience, this is what I would do. Sand with wet/dry (wet or dry sand) with 600 grit. Spray a light coat of the same paint and clear right after unmasking (again).
Contrary to what you might think, "melting" coats is only done BEFORE all the thinners have flashed out of the base. After that you need to use a "Mid Coat Adhesion Promotor". All though I have used a cold, slow dry (Evaporating) thinner in the past to achieve the same effect, and it's cheaper than the mid coat adhesion promotor.
 
Thanks guys.

As a side note, I've always wondered why they call rapid-evaporating solvents "hot" when actually they cool on the surface so fast we get effects like blushing, wheras the "cool or cold" solvents dont have as much chilling effect.

Sigh. English is not a very precise language!

Marc
 
Hot thinners evaporate fast, cold thinners evaporate slower, called flash time.
Takes a great deal of knowledge to understand what thinner to use as conditions dictate, not your desire. Dries to fast in humid climates, you get milking. You can even add retarders on high humidity days and still get milking.
You can add accelorators on a dry hot day and watch the laquer basically veable as it dries due to paint not having time to "melt" to itself before the thinner flashes out. Some effects like this are desired for antiquing or special types of custom paint work. My favorite was always cob webbing. Which, if I ever get spray guns again, I want to do on a rocket. If I find the photos of the boat I restored, I'll post one of the cob web job I did on it. So many bad hard drives, so many files, so much has been lost, but bits and pieces here and there on flash drives and CD's, I might have one somewhere. Just need the ambition to sit down and look through all of to see what I have left over the years.
 
I don't know; the method that Stefan mentioned has always worked for me. I squirt a little 3M Scratch Remover, a liquid polishing compound, onto a clean rag and have at it. Takes the surface haze right out. I have used it on acrylic enamels though; I have never tried it on pure lacquer.

I usually save my spray painting for the mid to late afternoon and I check the local humidity reading on Weather Underground before I go outside to paint. (The reporting station is just a couple of blocks from my house. If it gives the RH as 100%, I stay inside. ;) ) In fair weather, local humidity typically peaks overnight and in the early morning hours. It remains high during the morning and then declines during the day, reaching its daily minimum in the middle and late afternoon. As dusk approaches it starts to rise again and steadily increases all evening. YMMV, though, so check the local reading for your area. I have no garage, shed or carport, so my backyard is my spray booth. As a result of all of the spray painting of rockets that I did this summer, my lawn acquired some interesting hues. :D It has been awhile since any of my paint jobs took on a blush, though. I closely observe the surface for a few minutes after I spray on the coat, and at the first sign of any clouding I promptly bring the piece indoors. That stops the process and the mild just-developing haze disappears.
 
I don't know; the method that Stefan mentioned has always worked for me. I squirt a little 3M Scratch Remover, a liquid polishing compound, onto a clean rag and have at it. Takes the surface haze right out. I have used it on acrylic enamels though; I have never tried it on pure lacquer.

I usually save my spray painting for the mid to late afternoon and I check the local humidity reading on Weather Underground before I go outside to paint. (The reporting station is just a couple of blocks from my house. If it gives the RH as 100%, I stay inside. ;) ) In fair weather, local humidity typically peaks overnight and in the early morning hours. It remains high during the morning and then declines during the day, reaching its daily minimum in the middle and late afternoon. As dusk approaches it starts to rise again and steadily increases all evening. YMMV, though, so check the local reading for your area. I have no garage, shed or carport, so my backyard is my spray booth. As a result of all of the spray painting of rockets that I did this summer, my lawn acquired some interesting hues. :D It has been awhile since any of my paint jobs took on a blush, though. I closely observe the surface for a few minutes after I spray on the coat, and at the first sign of any clouding I promptly bring the piece indoors. That stops the process and the mild just-developing haze disappears.


That describes the the way I do painting to a tee.
 
Compound should do just fine. I'd reccomend 3M Perfectit 3000. Rustoleum Lacquer is actually an Acrylic Lacquer so the shine should stay.
 
To give some closure on this, last night I found a bottle of auto polishing compound in the closet. Says it's "clear coat compatible" which I take to mean it's pretty fine stuff.

Used a little on a wet soft cloth (old T-shirt) and rubbed for a few moments. After a short while I rinsed the cloth and rubbed some more, repeat a few times. Got a nice shiny surface; blush effect removed.

Yea!

Marc
 
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