Rascal, Estes Kit #2021

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This rocket sort of look like an up scaled and lengthened Lil' Hercules...
 
I have the original kit, instructions, and decals. All primed and awaiting paint.

When I became a BAR, it was the kit I wanted to complete as I had started it almost 30 years before.

Still haven't quite finished it yet...

Take your time, Kit. Don't rush into it.
 
This rocket sort of look like an up scaled and lengthened Lil' Hercules...


Without research, how could you know the Lil' Hercules doesn't sorta looks like a down scaled and shortend Rascal? :rolleyes:

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Without research, how could you know the Lil' Hercules doesn't sorta looks like a down scaled and shortend Rascal? :rolleyes:

I actually have a Lil' Hercules... When I get my Rascal in the mail and build it, I'll compare them. Anyway I kind of like rockets that look like this, you know, short and fat, rounded nose cone, that kind of thing.
 
The TTW basswood fins have been beveled on the leading and following edges.
They look pretty darn good. How do you go about it?

I'm going to need to do that for a particular model and I have an idea of what I am/was going to do, but I'm wondering if you have a different method. Thanks.
 
They look pretty darn good. How do you go about it?

I'm going to need to do that for a particular model and I have an idea of what I am/was going to do, but I'm wondering if you have a different method. Thanks.


I built a sanding station with a floating sanding block.
 
I built a sanding station with a floating sanding block.

Ah. I have been thinking about that very thing for some time now.

Building may get slowed down here for a while. Perhaps after all the hub-bubs over, I'll get to that. Thanks again.

The Rascal's looking very nice. Looking forward to your finishing.
 
Ah. I have been thinking about that very thing for some time now.

Building may get slowed down here for a while. Perhaps after all the hub-bubs over, I'll get to that. Thanks again.

The Rascal's looking very nice. Looking forward to your finishing.


The sanding station was made out of scrap plywood & PVC. The floating sanding block was made out of scrape balsa, left over from cutting out fins.

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The sanding station was made out of scrap plywood & PVC. The floating sanding block was made out of scrape balsa, left over from cutting out fins.

Interesting, but I'm not sure I understand the mechanics of it.
 
Well, I could go into how it works if your interested in the creation of fin bevels in a consistant and repeatable manner.

This home made device requires elbow grease to function.
 
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Well, I could go into how it works if your interested in the creation of fin bevels in a consistant and repeatable manner.

This home made device requires elbow grease to function.

Why yes. Yes I am. I had been thinking of a dedicated "beveling board" and was wondering how I'd go about varying the degree of bevel on such a device. I'd be very interested in how you go about it if you don't mind taking the time and trouble. I have read about another master modeler's technique for beveling and I'm interested in how your version works as it seems closer to what I had in mind.

And yes, it seems everything that refines the finish of a model rocket requires elbow grease and patience. I run a little shy on the latter, but I'm learning to relax a bit as the results are generally worth it. Certainly, in your builds it's evident.
 
When the clutter is removed, the sanding stations operation may become somewhat clearer.

Yes? No?

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Sand paper on the bottom of the balsa slider? Fins lined up on the pencil marks according to desired length/depth of bevel? Arcs for pins to hold fins of various shapes?

My best guess at the moment.
 
Sand paper on the bottom of the balsa slider? Fins lined up on the pencil marks according to desired length/depth of bevel? Arcs for pins to hold fins of various shapes?

My best guess at the moment.

Your a skilled observer.

Yes, the sand paper (80 grit) is attached to the bottom of the balsa 'slider'. I like to call it a 'floating' sanding block.

It is removeable and slides to the right and left freely. It also tilts up and down freely. As material is removed, the sanding block 'floats' down into the fin creating a bevel.

The further the edge you wish to bevel is from the base line, the deeper into the fin the bevel will be with a shallower angle.

The arcs were made for adjustable fences. Turns out they aren't really needed.

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The Bradycros Fin Beveler®

Very clever. I like it. I like it alot. Much simpler and much more practical than what I was envisioning.

Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble to explain it. I appreciate it. Clever indeed.
 
The Bradycros Fin Beveler®

Very clever. I like it. I like it alot. Much simpler and much more practical than what I was envisioning.

Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble to explain it. I appreciate it. Clever indeed.


The Bradycros Fin Beveler®

I like the sound of that.


The rear end of the sanding block is taperd, allowing the block to tilt back when fin stock is placed under the sand paperd front end.

All the joints and sliding surfaces of the sanding block have been soaked with thin CA. After many, many beveled fins, the sliding balsa surfaces that are soaked with CA still look new.

The PVC is showing signs of wear. Belive or not.

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That's an interesting tidbit: PVC is wearing and the CA soaked balsa is not. It re-enforces my practice of CA'ing the edges of fins, particularly the soft(er) balsa ones.

I had assumed that the back of the block had to be rounded or tapered and seeing the photo surprises me that there isn't a whole lot of tapering—I had expected more.
 
That's an interesting tidbit: PVC is wearing and the CA soaked balsa is not. It re-enforces my practice of CA'ing the edges of fins, particularly the soft(er) balsa ones.

I had assumed that the back of the block had to be rounded or tapered and seeing the photo surprises me that there isn't a whole lot of tapering—I had expected more.


Those tidbits do come in handy.


Place the sanding block over the fin and the PVC. A firm and steady pressure with your left hand finger tips will be needed to hold the fin in place, that and friction.

Your right hand will be working the sanding block.

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I remember this contraption you made ,and must say ,it makes some damn fine bevels.

Better get that patent applied for ;)

I should send out my fins to you ,so you can do my bevels for me.Do you charge per fin or linear inch ?

Nice invention !


Paul T
 
I remember this contraption you made ,and must say ,it makes some damn fine bevels.

Better get that patent applied for ;)

I should send out my fins to you ,so you can do my bevels for me.Do you charge per fin or linear inch ?

Nice invention !


Paul T


It really does make good bevels. Thank you for taking the time to say so.

I'd have to charge you by the hour and go really slow to make any profit!
 
With everything in place and the fin being held down, start sliding the sanding block with light dowdward pressurer.

It seems to me that the sanding block really likes to grab a new piece of fin stock on the first couple of passes. Extra left hand pressure is needed to prevent the fin from shifting its position.

Once the corner material is removed the extra effort isn't needed anymore.

Should the sanding block knock the fin out of position after you have a rhythm established:

a.) Your using to much downward pressure on the sanding block.

b.) Your not using enough downward finger tip pressure to hold the fin down.

c.) Both a & b.


Realign fin with base line and start again.

Keep track of your efforts (count) on the first side of the fin so they can be mirrored on the second side of the fin.

If one end of the bevel is becoming wider then the other end, your applying to much pressure with your starting stroke(s) or to much when finishing the stroke(s). Make the needed adjustment. Sand, count, inspect and adjust, repeat...

You'll get the hang of it sooner or later.

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A second look at those beveled leading and following edges on the Rascal is now in order.
 

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This becomes possible when you become proficient with The Bradycros Fin Beveler®

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OK... Two people found this info useful... back to the regularly scheduled Rascal build thread...

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Hey! Where'd you find that photo of me with short hair and no sideburns? Dang it!
 
I have one still in the original package, unopened.


What is that supose to mean? :confused:

You have a Rascal in the original package and it's going to stay that way?

Or that you have a Rascal in the original package and you now feel an overwhelming urge to build it?
 
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