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Question about the nose cone file for the red max clone. The file is named as below:

CNCE24AH-1.pdf

However the sheet shows CNCE24K. This may be simply a typo but I am having trouble getting the top part of the NC to fit right. The top part seems to be too small.
 
Question about the nose cone file for the red max clone. The file is named as below:

CNCE24AH-1.pdf

However the sheet shows CNCE24K. This may be simply a typo but I am having trouble getting the top part of the NC to fit right. The top part seems to be too small.

I'll look at it as soon as I get a chance - probably not before Sunday, tho (heavy work schedule).
 
Got started building the K25 model. Here's a shot of the assembled components.

BTW, I tried using heat (a monocote iron) to seal the body tube here - The method works great, gives a nice clean seam and keeps the mess to a minimum. Plus, it's a lot easier to line up the edges and hold in place while you tack with the iron. That's always been the biggest problem for me - getting the edge sealed with straight ends before the glue dries. I highly recommend this method for sealing the long seam on all body tubes.

More on the build tonight or tomorrow.

Alpha Parts.jpg
 
BTW, I tried using heat (a monocote iron) to seal the body tube here - The method works great, gives a nice clean seam and keeps the mess to a minimum. Plus, it's a lot easier to line up the edges and hold in place while you tack with the iron. That's always been the biggest problem for me - getting the edge sealed with straight ends before the glue dries. I highly recommend this method for sealing the long seam on all body tubes.

I agree about using an iron for rolling body tubes.
It was one of those things I read about and thought: "Yeah, right!"

I was very surprised how well it worked! It's great to align the body tube seams then tack everything down.
I tried it after reading the Eric Truax carded rocket directions.
 
I agree about using an iron for rolling body tubes.
It was one of those things I read about and thought: "Yeah, right!"

I was very surprised how well it worked! It's great to align the body tube seams then tack everything down.
I tried it after reading the Eric Truax carded rocket directions.

Of which in those instructions is about the only thing that doesn't need to be re-written/updated!
Anybody got 'roundtuit' to spare? :fly:
 
I actually have one of those coins somewhere, I'll look for it when I get around to it ... later.

:)
 
Pretty awesome. Thanks for sharing. I am very impressed who you can do with card stock or paper.
 
This is great stuff. I have always loved paper models and have boxes of them printed out and many more on external HDD. These will be very useful.
 
Thanks for the compliments! I am rather pleased with how these turned out. If you build anything using the Project Paper parts (whether a paper clone or a unique model using the parts in mix-n-match style) post some pics here. I really want to see what others are doing with these.

Now that I am finished with my major inspection of the year (I am QA manager for the Borden Dairy plant in western Kentucky, and we just finished our SQF Audit, which stands for Safe Quality Foods and is a requirement for selling to Walmart) I hope to get back to Project Paper with some new components. One of the models I want to try is the three motor cluster in the Astron Cobra. Another model I'd love to clone is the Sprint, but one of the limitations of cardstock modeling is that you can't really airfoil rounded fins. We'll see how the time goes (even now that the audit is done, I'm still putting in 12-14 hours a day, and if you add in the hour drive both ways, it doesn't leave much time for rocketry right now).

BTW, is there any particular part I haven't done in PP that anyof you would like to see? New nose cones? Specialized body tubes (particular color/pattern/length - remember I won't do Estes specific decals, but generic color patterns, roll patterns and markings such as US or United States are OK - the Estes logo or special pieces of art like the Der Red Max skull and the Goblin "critter" and bats are right out.we gotta stay generic. Then again, you never HAVE to build any rocket using the decals provided, right?! ;)
 
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I can't believe I've been away from this site for so long that I actually missed this entire thread!!!
What a WONDERFUL idea & project. THANK YOU!
Just a short note. I build models from 110# cardstock as well but I often use B-size (11"x17") to enable me to build larger parts.
I know I am likely in the minority here when I do that, but I was just wondering if anyone else does this?
Chuck
 
I can't believe I've been away from this site for so long that I actually missed this entire thread!!!
What a WONDERFUL idea & project. THANK YOU!
Just a short note. I build models from 110# cardstock as well but I often use B-size (11"x17") to enable me to build larger parts.
I know I am likely in the minority here when I do that, but I was just wondering if anyone else does this?
Chuck

Thanks for the compliments - and be sure to let me know about any builds you do with these parts.

I no longer have a double wide printer, so I can't print anything larger than 8-1/2 x 11. I also couldn't find the paper locally without going to a special source. And, of course, the letter size card is available through Walmart for pretty cheap, so that is a bonus. I haven't been able to work on this lately, but I need to come back and make a few more parts. Never can tell what I'll come up with next!
 
Thanks for the compliments - and be sure to let me know about any builds you do with these parts.

I no longer have a double wide printer, so I can't print anything larger than 8-1/2 x 11. I also couldn't find the paper locally without going to a special source. And, of course, the letter size card is available through Walmart for pretty cheap, so that is a bonus. I haven't been able to work on this lately, but I need to come back and make a few more parts. Never can tell what I'll come up with next!

Amazon is a card modeler's friend
11x17 110# cardstock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006P1Z472/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Amazon is a card modeler's friend
11x17 110# cardstock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006P1Z472/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Good find. So few places actually carry large cardstock. I run everything of mine through a copier/printer that will take up to 12x?? length paper. I've never tried running heavy stock through my plotter, which can print up to 36" wide and at least 120" long, but I might be a little afraid of breaking something (it's about $15k!).

I needed some heavy duty stock on short notice and picked up some 14"x17" recycled bristol at the local art store, but it was expensive - $15 for 25 sheets. Bigger stuff was available, though. (I'm trying not to think about that...I've got too much to do in the next 10 days!)
 
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These PDF files were created quite a few years ago. They have been posted on another web forum. Basically the first shows the difference between the different types of cardstock. Each type is weighed after being cut to a specific "Basis" size. It shows the sizes for the different types.

Hopefully these PDFs will help you choose cardstock for your builds.

Mike

Thank you Mike - thank you VERY much!
 
Just a reminder - if anyone builds any of these, or uses the generic parts to create something new, post some pictures here. I'd love to see what people are doing with these. Flight pics even better!
 
Any thoughts on what printers work best? I tried to feed 110lb into my Brother MFC-640CW and it balked. I can get 65lb to feed but not 110.
 
I had no issues printing on 110lb cardstock with my cannon pixma 4700 feeding from the rear tray. anything with a straight through paper path should do alright.
 
I use an HP portable printer (don't remember the number) - it is small, battery powered and has a straight-through paper path unlike most other HP printers. It does 110# GP card just fine.

I have also used Epson printers with good effect. But I found that the print head drivers would die on them pretty easy (a couple cartriges hard use and I'd start getting lines in my printouts). So far the HP has been hanging in there well and has the added bonus that I can take it with me when I travel.
 
I have been using an Epson-all-in-1 printer that handles 110# stuff with no problem. I have printed out literally hundreds of models with it with no real problem - except for using a truck-load of ink carts.
 
love the idea of this thread and was hoping to see if anyone had any more fin designs? I can do cones and transitions easy enough but good fin designs like those on the midnight express are hard to come by.
 
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The other two files are, of course, the nose cone...So has anyone built any of these yet?

I just came across your 13mm BT5 nose cone templates here, this was just what I was looking for. I am using it for a mini-engine downscale and Goony clone of the Centuri Excalibur. I will need a BT4 size and will try to scale down the template, but that little tip cone might be a challenge if it gets much smaller, I may have to modify the other transitions and keep the tip cone piece the same size. It worked just fine on 67-lb paper, it looks much better than the straight cone template I was using to simulate the ogive nose. Many thanks!
 
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I just came across your 13mm BT5 nose cone templates here, this was just what I was looking for. I am using it for a mini-engine downscale and Goony clone of the Centuri Excalibur. I will need a BT4 size and will try to scale down the template, but that little tip cone might be a challenge if it gets much smaller, I may have to modify the other transitions and keep the tip cone piece the same size. It worked just fine on 67-lb paper, it looks much better than the straight cone template I was using to simulate the ogive nose. Many thanks!

You are most welcome! I haven't done any more with this, but I should. I still build paper models, but most of them are for competition (they are perfect for duration events - if one thermals away or ends in a tree, you don't have a big investment in them, plus they are lighter than using standard rocket parts). Please post pics here when you finish - I love to see what others have done with my designs!
 
...Please post pics here when you finish...
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?130309-Centuri-Excalibur-Goony-quot-Sting-quot
this one has your 13mm cone, it turned out nice for my first try, I can get better with practice. I just stumbled upon the cardstock rocketry thing, and now I don't look at cereal boxes and paper towel rolls the same, I see rockets that are waiting to be made from my mixed paper and cardboard recycling bin.

I had to scale down the 13mm cone a little for my mini-clone downscale Excalibur, roughly to BT-4 size, I may have scaled it down a tad bit too much, but this is still a work in progress. Still learning by trial and error here. This cone looks much better than the straight cone I was initially going to use.

DSC_6316.jpg

======updated======
here is the BT5 13 mm cone on the goony and a slightly scaled down version on the mini-clone
DSC_6322.jpg

another idea: make a cardstock template for a rocket stand for the different diameter tubes, it could have a 3 or 4 fin-foot type design like the Estes plastic version, or a large dia/short length transition to an engine size tube. The transition design could have any colorful or rocket exhaust type of image on it. Maybe a google earth map of your favorite launch site in miniature, or of Cape Canaveral. You can even put a name plate for the particular rocket on display, etc...

======update=======
Here's the color swoop version from an old Centuri catalog. I was able to add part of the blue color swoop on the nose cone template to match the body tube, your BT5 13mm cone template was scaled down 91% to fit this downscale. The color swoop clone is sitting on a homemade cardstock stand prototype.
DSC_6327.jpg
 
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Here is a first cut at a simple display stand for rockets with mini and standard size engine mounts. You can laminate the centering ring onto cereal box cardboard. Start by making a standard size 13mm or 18mm body tube, then cut a slit out of it to make it into a coupler size that fits in the engine mount of that size. The internal fins for extra support are optional. If you have a really tall rocket, then you may need to add some weight to keep it from tipping over, the display tube can be filled in that case. Enjoy!

View attachment DisplayStand_BT20_cone_base.pdf
View attachment DisplayStand_BT5_cone_base.pdf
DSC_6366.jpg
DSC_6365.jpg
 
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