I keep a wet washcloth or clean rag in an empty bowl next to me as I'm working and I use it to wipe glue off of my fingers before I ever touch anything. That includes parts or seams that I am gluing down; I apply the glue, then take a couple of seconds to wipe off and dry my hands before proceeding. On most card stock models there is no painting or finishing, so anything that gets onto the exterior will be permanently on display. Because of that, you quickly learn to get meticulous about keeping things neat and uncluttered and you learn to apply only as much glue as you need and no more.
If the parts were printed on an ink jet printer, spraying on a couple of coats of clear after all of the glue has dried will prevent the ink from running if it is exposed to any dampness. Just about any clear spray paint will do. A matte or satin variety will be less visible on the finished rocket.
For something that is so cheap to make, a well-designed card stock rocket can last for quite a long time. I still have the very first paper rockets that I built when I resumed the hobby in the spring of 2004, and they are still in perfect condition after having made a number of flights over the years. The attached photo, which I just took a few minutes ago, is of some of my very first BAR rockets that I built and first flew back in 2004. The four Qubits (2 mini, 2 micro) are the oldest rockets in my fleet.
Both Art Applewhite and FlisKits have free plans for a number of card stock rockets on their web sites.
For saucer-style and pyramid-style rockets, like Art Applewhite's Delta Saucers and Qubits, it is best to use plugged motors: A10-PT for 13mm, and D11-P for 24mm. For MicroMaxx, use MicroMaxx II-NE motors, and for 18mm, use booster (A8-0, B6-0, C6-0) motors.
very important
