Replacing Electron Beam launcher light bulb

Hey there,
I haven't launched in years and would like to get back into my rocket hobby.

Years ago I bought a new Estes Electron Beam launcher.
However, something happened to the light bulb which is missing.
So I come here looking for advice on how to replace it.
Instructions I have suggest sending it back to Estes for replacement which to me seems like a small hassle.
I would rather find one locally or have it sent to me rather than send and wait and wait.
I did call a hobby store and they weren't any help and didn't think any other hobby shops would have one.
(They didn't find one in a catalog. Is Estes really that stingy? Could it be a custom bulb and they have the corner on the market for them?)
A bulb was found to fit at a hardware store but it didn't light up.
And I found this site that has one:
https://www.acsupplyco.com/estes/parts.htm
but the killer is the high shipping cost which is like 12 bucks! :shock:

So, anyone else have a similar situation but had good luck at replacing the bulb at a reasonable price lower than 14 dollars?
And do you know what size/type of bulb I could be looking for?
And do I really need it?
If I can't find one, I could still launch my rockets, right?
(Though it would be fun to have since I can dig things that light up...)

Go to your local Radio Shack, they can help you. You will want a 6V bulb, since the Electron Beam uses 4 AA batteries, which is 6V (DC). If you convert the EB to 12VDC so you can use a car battery or other external source, then get a 12V bulb. You did not say what voltage the bulb was from the hardware store -- it could have been for household current (120 VAC).

Or, you could modify it for use with an LED, and make it safe to use with Quest and other low-current igniters. (An incandescent bulb pulls a high current, whereas LEDs typically only need ~ 20mA to light up. This is sufficiently low enough for low current igniters.

Do a search on this forum, and you will likely find several threads on the numerous ways people have converted their Estes launchers to LED. I have posted info on the conversion, and I think it was on this forum, but it might have been on YORF (Ye Old Rocket Forum).

If you are anywhere near a hobby shop that services electric toy trains, you SHOULD be able to use a Lionel #51-300 bulb. This is a GE #51 type bulb. Bayonet base, 6-7.5V.

I replaced mine with an LED and resistor, and just embedded it in hot glue to hold it in there.

Trident said:

Go to your local Radio Shack, they can help you. You will want a 6V bulb, since the Electron Beam uses 4 AA batteries, which is 6V (DC). If you convert the EB to 12VDC so you can use a car battery or other external source, then get a 12V bulb. You did not say what voltage the bulb was from the hardware store -- it could have been for household current (120 VAC).

Or, you could modify it for use with an LED, and make it safe to use with Quest and other low-current igniters. (An incandescent bulb pulls a high current, whereas LEDs typically only need ~ 20mA to light up. This is sufficiently low enough for low current igniters.

Do a search on this forum, and you will likely find several threads on the numerous ways people have converted their Estes launchers to LED. I have posted info on the conversion, and I think it was on this forum, but it might have been on YORF (Ye Old Rocket Forum).

Click to expand...

pick1e said:

If you are anywhere near a hobby shop that services electric toy trains, you SHOULD be able to use a Lionel #51-300 bulb. This is a GE #51 type bulb. Bayonet base, 6-7.5V.

I replaced mine with an LED and resistor, and just embedded it in hot glue to hold it in there.

Click to expand...

While I appreciate the advice I do not wish to convert or modify it. That's getting too complicated to me.
I want to keep it simple which is keeping it as is.

OK I got two different types mentioned. "...a 6V bulb..." and "...a Lionel #51-300 bulb. This is a GE #51 type bulb. Bayonet base, 6-7.5V."

Which one is it or will both work?

The Estes controllers used to use a regular flashlight bulb-- the kind that has two small bumps on either side of the bulb, that slide into the socket and then with a partial twist lock into place. Course the new ones may use something different, and the newest controllers (so I've heard) have the bulb sealed inside the case under a plastic bubble so you can't even get to them.

If yours has the bulb accessible from the outside (down in a hole in the top of the controller) you can look down in the hole-- you should see the brass contact that the bulb fits into. If it has two small "U" shaped notches on either side or top or bottom of the contact, it uses the regular flashlight bulb. You can get LED flashlight bulbs from Academy Sports and Outdoors, or other hunting/fishing type stores. Get a new bulb, push it down, turn it a bit to lock it in, and presto you should be done.

LED type bulbs are nice because they don't draw as much power as regular incandescent bulbs, meaning your AA batteries last longer and have more power available to launch. Incandescent bulbs are also kind of fragile, and can burn out or break the filament. LED type bulbs last a LOT longer (but they ARE priced higher. If in doubt, take your controller with you and test the bulb out in it before you buy it.

IMHO upgrading the Estes controller is NOT a hard project... and you'll get a controller as good as anything on the market when you're done. The "stock" Estes controller isn't particularly good IMHO... I've had fits with what I thought was dirty clips or bad ignitors, worked on them for 30 minutes, just to find out that the darn light bulb in the controller had lost contact-- a slight wiggle and I'd have saved a LOT of aggravation and been able to launch without the headaches. Ditching the stupid light bulbs for a wired-in LED indicator (available at Radio Shack with the resistor built in to it already) really saves a lot of headaches, and eliminates the possibilities of poor contact giving a false "no continuity" signal. Making the controller capable of being powered by an external battery (12V) is also well worth the effort IMHO, and not hard to do. Experience has taught me to install a second LED indicator of a different color to indicate when the battery clips have good contact as well-- I had problems with the AA's losing contact and even hooking it to an external battery can sometimes not get a good contact between the clips and battery posts-- the second LED indicator eliminates this worry-- so long as the second LED is glowing, you've got power to the controller!

IF you're ever interested in upgrading, there's threads on here on how to do it and I have some diagrams and stuff if you need them.

Later and good luck! OL JR

LaunchPad said:

OK I got two different types mentioned. "...a 6V bulb..." and "...a Lionel #51-300 bulb. This is a GE #51 type bulb. Bayonet base, 6-7.5V."

Which one is it or will both work?

Click to expand...

The bulb that came in your Estes controller is a 6V bulb with a "bayonet" base. A GE #51 bulb should work as a replacement because it satisfies those parameters. I'm not positive but that's most likely what Estes used.

GE had a numbering system for their bulbs that is still used today, often by other manufacturers. So a #51 bulb describes a bulb that is 6-7.5V, bayonet base. But some manufacturers may use different numbers like Lionel's #51-300. It's still a GE #51 bulb. An auto parts store might have one as well.

luke strawwalker said:

If yours has the bulb accessible from the outside (down in a hole in the top of the controller) you can look down in the hole-- you should see the brass contact that the bulb fits into. If it has two small "U" shaped notches on either side or top or bottom of the contact, it uses the regular flashlight bulb. You can get LED flashlight bulbs from Academy Sports and Outdoors, or other hunting/fishing type stores. Get a new bulb, push it down, turn it a bit to lock it in, and presto you should be done.
If in doubt, take your controller with you and test the bulb out in it before you buy it.

Click to expand...

Yes, that is the type I have. It was made in the late 90s early 2000s.
And when the hardware store clerk found a bulb that fits, I tested it and nothing happened.
Now I realize that the alligator clips should have been touching each other or metal for the bulb to work.

luke strawwalker said:

IMHO upgrading the Estes controller is NOT a hard project... and you'll get a controller as good as anything on the market when you're done. The "stock" Estes controller isn't particularly good IMHO... I've had fits with what I thought was dirty clips or bad ignitors, worked on them for 30 minutes, just to find out that the darn light bulb in the controller had lost contact-- a slight wiggle and I'd have saved a LOT of aggravation and been able to launch without the headaches. Ditching the stupid light bulbs for a wired-in LED indicator (available at Radio Shack with the resistor built in to it already) really saves a lot of headaches, and eliminates the possibilities of poor contact giving a false "no continuity" signal. Making the controller capable of being powered by an external battery (12V) is also well worth the effort IMHO, and not hard to do. Experience has taught me to install a second LED indicator of a different color to indicate when the battery clips have good contact as well-- I had problems with the AA's losing contact and even hooking it to an external battery can sometimes not get a good contact between the clips and battery posts-- the second LED indicator eliminates this worry-- so long as the second LED is glowing, you've got power to the controller!

IF you're ever interested in upgrading, there's threads on here on how to do it and I have some diagrams and stuff if you need them.

Later and good luck! OL JR

Click to expand...

Thank you for that.
I did have to get a new controller when the previous one from childhood (It was grey - Now it's black) had problems. If I remember right, I think the batteries leaked and corroded the contact points with acid. That would be my fault, and not Estes.
If I start having problems with this one, I'll consider upgrading if it's more cost effective.

Is that the consensus on here? Estes makes lousy controllers so upgrades need to be done?

pick1e said:

The bulb that came in your Estes controller is a 6V bulb with a "bayonet" base. A GE #51 bulb should work as a replacement because it satisfies those parameters. I'm not positive but that's most likely what Estes used.

GE had a numbering system for their bulbs that is still used today, often by other manufacturers. So a #51 bulb describes a bulb that is 6-7.5V, bayonet base. But some manufacturers may use different numbers like Lionel's #51-300. It's still a GE #51 bulb. An auto parts store might have one as well.

Click to expand...

Thank you for coming back to clarify and the auto parts store suggestion.
Now I know what to look for and where!

LaunchPad said:

Yes, that is the type I have. It was made in the late 90s early 2000s.
And when the hardware store clerk found a bulb that fits, I tested it and nothing happened.
Now I realize that the alligator clips should have been touching each other or metal for the bulb to work.


Thank you for that.
I did have to get a new controller when the previous one from childhood (It was grey - Now it's black) had problems. If I remember right, I think the batteries leaked and corroded the contact points with acid. That would be my fault, and not Estes.
If I start having problems with this one, I'll consider upgrading if it's more cost effective.

Is that the consensus on here? Estes makes lousy controllers so upgrades need to be done?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't say "lousy"... just "limited". "AA" batteries just don't have the "oomph" to light rocket motors for very long, or to ignite clusters. I don't like pressing the button and being able to count to 'three' before the rocket actually ignites and lifts off! The 6 volt power source with a very limited "C" rating (capacity rating-- IE why you can't start a car with a pack of AA's-- not enough current delivery or capacity) is part of the problem, but the other part is that 6 volts just is about the minimum one should use... 12 volts is MUCH better! Of course it doesn't play nicely with the 6 volt bulb in your controller for very long, either (though it will last a while, because usually the continuity light isn't on for very long, but its life will be significantly shorter than normal). The other thing is, the light guage bell wire that Estes uses really limits the current delivery to the ignitor-- replacing it with lamp cord from the 99 cent store isn't hard, and it REALLY gets a lot more power to the ignitor(s). The third thing is, if you want to launch rockets with larger MPR composite motors, clusters, or new "high tech" low current ignitors like those from Quest, the Estes controller, stock, is TOTALLY INADEQUATE. It CANNOT deliver enough power to reliably ignite clusters even using Estes ignitors, or MPR composite motor ignitors. When using low current Quest ignitors, the antiquated light bulb passes enough current to actually fire the ignitor when the key is inserted. Switching to a low-current LED indicator eliminates this problem. Increasing the power supply to 12 volts and using heavier guage lead wire from the controller handles the other problems.

SO, it depends on what you're doing with it. If you're JUST launching single engine Estes "A,B,C,D" motor rockets, and you keep fresh batteries in it, the Estes controller is "ADEQUATE" (not desirable, just 'acceptable'). If you plan on launching "E" motors, let alone anything higher, doing cluster rockets, or using any other manufacturer's products (like Quest Q2G2 ignitors) then the stock Estes controller isn't much use without mods...

If you didn't throw the old "acid eaten" one away, you can experiment with rebuilding it... it's not very hard and it's a good learning experience, and you'll be pleased with the results over the "stock" controller... Soldering in lamp cord leads to power it off an external battery isn't hard, and it's easy to do the other mods while the case is open...

SO, like a lot of things... "it depends".... :lol:

Later! OL JR

MINIATURE BULB BA9S BASE is the keword.

Exact 6 volts replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/51_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/51.htm

Lower current 6 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/130_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/130.htm

12 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/1445_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/1445.htm

None of the above lights are Quest igniter safe. You would need a lower current BA9S replacement.

Superbright LEDS has replacements that are Quest igniter safe. One rated for 12 volts will work at 6 volts but will draw 1/2 the current and be half as bright. They cost between $2 to $1.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fpt%2Fba9.html

Specifically https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi...ispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/ba9s_wide.htm#photos

Part#: BA9S-G-90-12V green-90 degree-12 volt

Part#: BA9S-G-120-12V green-120 degree-12 volt

They draw ~ 20 ma @ 12 volts and ~10 ma at 6 volts. They will also greatly increase your battery life. A $2 green one will appear to be the brightest to the eye.

Bob

bobkrech said:

MINIATURE BULB BA9S BASE is the keword.

Exact 6 volts replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/51_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/51.htm

Lower current 6 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/130_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/130.htm

12 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/1445_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/1445.htm

None of the above lights are Quest igniter safe. You would need a lower current BA9S replacement.

Superbright LEDS has replacements that are Quest igniter safe. One rated for 12 volts will work at 6 volts but will draw 1/2 the current and be half as bright. They cost between $2 to $1.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fpt%2Fba9.html

Specifically https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi...ispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/ba9s_wide.htm#photos

Part#: BA9S-G-90-12V green-90 degree-12 volt

Part#: BA9S-G-120-12V green-120 degree-12 volt

They draw ~ 20 ma @ 12 volts and ~10 ma at 6 volts. They will also greatly increase your battery life. A $2 green one will appear to be the brightest to the eye.

Bob

Click to expand...

Now I'm getting confused and feeling overwhelmed with info.

And I'm getting two different numbers of volts. 6 & 12.
Which one is it or will both work?

I plan to take pick1e's advice and try to find the GE#51 locally.
If I can't find it, then I may try the links that Bob provided.
If so, what EXACTLY should I get? Will all of those work for my specific Estes launcher?

And what does "Quest igniter safe" mean? Is Quest a different brand of launcher?

Please clarify.
Thank you.

BTW: Here's the launcher I have.
The only difference is that it is black but it's still a 2220.
https://www.estesrockets.com/302220-electron-beamr-launch-controller

LaunchPad said:

And what does "Quest igniter safe" mean? Is Quest a different brand of launcher?
[/url]

Click to expand...

Quest makes rockets, motors, & launch equipment similar to estes - their newest igniters take very little current to ignite. The lightbulb used in the estes controllers allow enough current to ignite the new quest igniters so if you use an estes controllor with the new quest igniters the motor fires as soon as you put the key in. if you replace the standard bulb with a led replacement bulb then there is not enough current during the continuity test to ignite the igniter - safer that way but not necessary if you dont use quest igniters - also a led bulb wont burn out any where near as fast as an incadescent bubl

LaunchPad said:

Now I'm getting confused and feeling overwhelmed with info.

And I'm getting two different numbers of volts. 6 & 12.
Which one is it or will both work?

I plan to take pick1e's advice and try to find the GE#51 locally.
If I can't find it, then I may try the links that Bob provided.
If so, what EXACTLY should I get? Will all of those work for my specific Estes launcher?

And what does "Quest igniter safe" mean? Is Quest a different brand of launcher?

Please clarify.
Thank you.

BTW: Here's the launcher I have.
The only difference is that it is black but it's still a 2220.
https://www.estesrockets.com/302220-electron-beamr-launch-controller

Click to expand...

They're somewhat interchangeable. A stock Estes controller with 4 "AA" batteries is six volts. Just about anything you would power an upgraded controller will be 12 volts. A 6 volt bulb running on 12 volts will be REALLY bright, and won't live long under those conditions, because too much current gets pushed through it by the additional voltage. A 12 volt bulb running on 6 volts will be dim because it's not getting enough current "forced" through it due to the lower voltage in a 6 volt system, BUT, it will last practically forever in such circumstances. For "intermittent, low duty-cycle" applications (like continuity bulbs in launch controllers that don't burn terribly often or for very long at one time (duty cycle) either will work, to a point.

Same thing basically goes for LED's. If you power an LED straight from the power source, you'll pretty quickly burn out the semiconductor bridge in it because it will allow too much current to go through it, eventually burning it out. If you put a resistor in series of the "correct" resistance (ohms) then the resistor "chokes" the current down that can pass through the LED semiconductor bridge, preventing it from burning out from excessive current. "LED indicators" take all the work out of it because they already have a resistor of the correct value built in. "LED light bulbs" will also have the correct resistor wired in, to limit the current through the LED's, so they're a drop in replacement.

Make sense?? Always remember, when in doubt, Ohm's Law controls everything electrical-- Current (amperes)= volts / resistance (ohms). Transposing, Volts= current X resistance, and Resistance= volts / current (amps).

Quest makes a lot of good stuff, kits, rocket motors, and especially their new ignitors which are just the cat's pajamas... but they don't take much current to fire, which makes them ideal for cluster launches, but it also means that due to the low resistance and high current that flows through a standard light bulb in an Estes controller, they will fire when the key is inserted, which is NOT a good thing! LED's eliminate that problem. Some controllers use a piezo buzzer instead of a continuity light, which also passes only a small amount of current and is safe to use with low-current ignitors.

Hope this helps! OL JR

All of the rocket stuff in stores where I live is Estes. I have never even seen a Quest motor so I wouldn't worry about it as it sounds like all ofyour stuff is Estes too.

The issue with the Quest ignitors is that they work with very, very low power. So if you hooked up one just like you do your Estes stuff the ignitor would fire as soon as you tested the circuit.

You test the circuit by using the light bulb in your Estes controller. It tells you that there is a very small amount of power flowing through the wires to the Estes ignitor in your rocket and then back to the controller and through your light bulb. If the light bulb lights you have a good circuit and the Estes motor will probably light when you push the launch button. If the light bulb does not light up then you know you have a problem and the rocket will probably not launch when you push the button.

You see, when you push the launch button you bypass the light bulb and full power can flow to the ignitor. However, the Quest ignitors require so little power that the test circuit power is enough to fire one.

Trident said:

Go to your local Radio Shack

Click to expand...

Oh yea, duh. What he said FIRST. Radio Shack's catalog number is #272-1163. :bang:

EDIT Scratch that! That type of flashlight bulb is a press-fit, it doesn't have those little retaining nubs like a bayonet base does. Probably also too high current. :bangpan:

This one will work. Radio Shack #272-1115. The globe is elongated instead of round but that won't affect its function.

Good luck though, my experience in recent years is that Radio Shack doesn't ACTUALLY HAVE ANYTHING anymore. But they can order it for you! Would you like to renew your cellphone plan?

I have a bunch of Estes Launch Controllers.
I don't usem any of them.
I cobbled (best I can think of to call what I did) to connect to my yard tracktor, truck, any 12v battery) my own for my single launch pads. And a my 5 pad controller is also cobbled.
So if you like, private message me and I'll send you a new launch controller comlete including the cover to the bulb.
When you get it, just send me back the amount it cost me to ship it to ya.
You can have your choice of colors, Red, Yellow or Black.
Glad to hear you getting back into the fun, you won't regret it, no matter what level you take your (hobby, I say...) Sport to.
Woody
aka JEA

Keep it simple methinks:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1174&parent=192

Similar to what someone else posted. They're cheap, reliable, work with 6 or 12 volt setups, are a direct replacement for the Electron Beam controller bulb and they come in a variety of colors. No muss, no fuss, not one single modification needed to use them. Order 10 of them and call it a day.

FC

Zeus-cat said:

All of the rocket stuff in stores where I live is Estes. I have never even seen a Quest motor so I wouldn't worry about it as it sounds like all ofyour stuff is Estes too.

The issue with the Quest ignitors is that they work with very, very low power. So if you hooked up one just like you do your Estes stuff the ignitor would fire as soon as you tested the circuit.

You test the circuit by using the light bulb in your Estes controller. It tells you that there is a very small amount of power flowing through the wires to the Estes ignitor in your rocket and then back to the controller and through your light bulb. If the light bulb lights you have a good circuit and the Estes motor will probably light when you push the launch button. If the light bulb does not light up then you know you have a problem and the rocket will probably not launch when you push the button.

You see, when you push the launch button you bypass the light bulb and full power can flow to the ignitor. However, the Quest ignitors require so little power that the test circuit power is enough to fire one.

Click to expand...

Thanx. That's helpful to know.

pick1e said:

Oh yea, duh. What he said FIRST. Radio Shack's catalog number is #272-1163. :bang:

EDIT Scratch that! That type of flashlight bulb is a press-fit, it doesn't have those little retaining nubs like a bayonet base does. Probably also too high current. :bangpan:

This one will work. Radio Shack #272-1115. The globe is elongated instead of round but that won't affect its function.

Good luck though, my experience in recent years is that Radio Shack doesn't ACTUALLY HAVE ANYTHING anymore. But they can order it for you! Would you like to renew your cellphone plan?

Click to expand...

Thank you.
I'll try the following in my area:
Hardware store (There's another one that's closer and this time I'll have the clips touching each other when testing.)
Auto Parts
Different hobby stores
Radio Shack
And if all those fail, online place mentioned above.

Woody's Workshop said:

I have a bunch of Estes Launch Controllers.
I don't usem any of them.
I cobbled (best I can think of to call what I did) to connect to my yard tracktor, truck, any 12v battery) my own for my single launch pads. And a my 5 pad controller is also cobbled.
So if you like, private message me and I'll send you a new launch controller comlete including the cover to the bulb.
When you get it, just send me back the amount it cost me to ship it to ya.
You can have your choice of colors, Red, Yellow or Black.
Glad to hear you getting back into the fun, you won't regret it, no matter what level you take your (hobby, I say...) Sport to.
Woody
aka JEA

Click to expand...

Thank you for that. Appreciated.
This is a very new controller. I hardly have had a chance to use it so it should still be in good shape. I just need a new bulb.
However if/when it needs to be replaced, I'll let you know.
(Then again, it may not hurt to have a couple back ups for the future.)

FastCargo said:

Keep it simple methinks:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1174&parent=192

Similar to what someone else posted. They're cheap, reliable, work with 6 or 12 volt setups, are a direct replacement for the Electron Beam controller bulb and they come in a variety of colors. No muss, no fuss, not one single modification needed to use them. Order 10 of them and call it a day.

FC

Click to expand...

Yup.
Me and you are thinking alike here. Dig it.

Try again with a different link.
The one provided doesn't work.

How about https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1174&parent=192

I have done this "conversion" - works great with Q2G2s as well as regular Estes igniters.

BEC said:

How about https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1174&parent=192

I have done this "conversion" - works great with Q2G2s as well as regular Estes igniters.

Click to expand...

What he said...not sure how the link I was intending to post got screwed up. Anyway, use the link BEC listed. They work great!

FC

LaunchPad said:

Now I'm getting confused and feeling overwhelmed with info.

And I'm getting two different numbers of volts. 6 & 12.
Which one is it or will both work?

I plan to take pick1e's advice and try to find the GE#51 locally.
If I can't find it, then I may try the links that Bob provided.
If so, what EXACTLY should I get? Will all of those work for my specific Estes launcher?

And what does "Quest igniter safe" mean? Is Quest a different brand of launcher?

Please clarify.
Thank you.

BTW: Here's the launcher I have.
The only difference is that it is black but it's still a 2220.
https://www.estesrockets.com/302220-electron-beamr-launch-controller

Click to expand...

1.) The standard Estes launcher used 4 AA batteries and delivers 6 volts to the igniters. This is sufficient for up to 3 standard Estes igniters. It uses has a 6 volt #51 GE lamp (which uses an industry standard BA9S base.).

2.) A lamp draws a lot of current. Checking the continuity actually uses up the battery far more than firing the igniter because it is on for a much longer time than it takes to burn the igniter. There are lower current versions of a 6 volt BA9S base lamp that will extend your battery life.

3.) Many folks would like to run the launcher at 12 volts for use with other igniters. You can't run a 6 volt bulb at 12 volts for a long time without burning it out. I listed several 12 volt bulbs that are a drop in replacement. (Note a 12 volt bulb operate at 6 volts will draw a lot more current because the filament temperatue is lower and the resistance of tungstun increase with temperatue dropping the current as the filament heats up.

4.) The new quest igniters are great for clusters as they activate at 1/7 the current of the Estes igniters, and allow you to use the Estes launchers for clusters of more than 3 motors. Unfortunately the standard Estes launcher bulb draws so much current that the continuity check will activate the igniter and prematurely launch your rocket.

5.) A single LED replacement lamp draws only 20 ma, and this current will not activate any known igniters. The one I listed is a drop in replacement for a BA9S base bulb, so it fits in the Estes launcher. The ones I suggested are green, because the eye is most sensitive to green and for a given current, it appears brighter than the others. The LED bulb is rated for 12 volts. A 12 volt LED bulb operating a 6 volts draws only half the current and will be 1/2 as bright, but bright enought to easily see in sunlight, so that bulb will work in any launcher application.

Hope this helps.

Bob

I have many , many lamps ("bulbs") from Estes controllers. I removed them when replacing the lamp with the simple replacement LED so they would be super bright and work safely with any igniter.

If anyone needs replacement Estes lamps, I can mail them to you in a padded mailer or small box for a whopping $2 for the first one and 50 cents for each additional lamp included in the same mailing.

Payment should be cash or USPS Money Order for rapid mailing and a check of you don't mind waiting a week or two for the check to clear. If you wish to use PayPal, then add 50 cents to cover the annoying fees.

FRED SHECTER
PO BOX 5165
FULLERTON CA 92838-0165

I also have 30, 31 or 32 ga Nichrome wire (rustproof A type with no iron) available in 25 foot coils for $5 each. If you buy a lamp, I will not charge extra for shipping the wire. If you only want wire, then add $1.88 to cover shipping.

pick1e said:

Oh yea, duh. What he said FIRST. Radio Shack's catalog number is #272-1163. :bang:

EDIT Scratch that! That type of flashlight bulb is a press-fit, it doesn't have those little retaining nubs like a bayonet base does. Probably also too high current. :bangpan:

This one will work. Radio Shack #272-1115. The globe is elongated instead of round but that won't affect its function.

Good luck though, my experience in recent years is that Radio Shack doesn't ACTUALLY HAVE ANYTHING anymore. But they can order it for you! Would you like to renew your cellphone plan?

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Don't forget you have to give them your address/zipcode before you can check out so they can bombard you with junk mail...

Heck, they're more interested in selling SERVICES now than HARDWARE... IE, cell phone plans, TV plans, internet plans, etc.etc.etc... :cyclops:

Just gimme the dang diodes and resistors and stuff, would ya!

Later! OL JR

FastCargo said:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1174&parent=192

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The problem with mine was that the lamp just fell out and was lost after a couple uses, like the OP's. I replaced mine with an LED at that time, but if I had one of these direct replacements I'd probably tack it in there with a couple beads of hot glue so it would stay put- yet you could remove it if you needed to.

luke strawwalker said:

Just gimme the dang diodes and resistors and stuff, would ya!

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Sorry this is OT but when I walk in and they ask if they can help me, I say "yeah, what's the difference between a Zener diode and a switching diode?" Then they leave me alone. :neener:

If you don't mind slightly used ones, here you go!!!! :https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56459bc754

rcktnut said:

If you don't mind slightly used ones, here you go!!!! :https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56459bc754

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I'm a "seeing is believing" type of guy when it comes to buying things.
I'd rather check it out in a store.
Once I have it confirmed of what exact bulb I need, then I could mail order next time.

There are 2 things that surprise me about this whole bulb thing.
1) That Estes refuses to disclose what bulb it is and that hobby shops won't sell them. (I dunno why hobby shops don't carry a lot of extra little things one needs to keep their hobby going.)
Before I started this thread I searched and didn't find one.
1) So I'm amazed at the number of responses I got and that some make what should be a simple thing more complex than it needs to be!

LaunchPad said:

I'm a "seeing is believing" type of guy when it comes to buying things.
I'd rather check it out in a store.
Once I have it confirmed of what exact bulb I need, then I could mail order next time.

There are 2 things that surprise me about this whole bulb thing.
1) That Estes refuses to disclose what bulb it is and that hobby shops won't sell them. (I dunno why hobby shops don't carry a lot of extra little things one needs to keep their hobby going.)
Before I started this thread I searched and didn't find one.
1) So I'm amazed at the number of responses I got and that some make what should be a simple thing more complex than it needs to be!

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I'm sorry you are confused. Everyone here has tried to be helpful.

As many folks have stated, the 6 volt continuity light bulb is an industry standard #51 bulb and the 12 volt continuity light bulb is an industry standard #53 bulb. Both use the industry standard BA9S base (BAyonet 9mm Single contact). These bulbs are available in many hardware and electronics stores and on-line at a number of websites, some of which were pointed out by various folks who replied to you question.

Estes is a very consumer friendly company. A call or e-mail to Estes customer service would also provided this information, and it can be found on the Estes website in the following Estes publication A Learning Guide for Model Rocket Launch Systems © Copyright 1969, 1976, 1999 Centuri Corporation which describes the light bulbs used in Estes Launchers from the 60's to the present on page 12 and available for download at https://www2.estesrockets.com/pdf/2811_Estes_Model_Rocket_Launch_Systems.pdf

Folks who have been in the hobby for a while use motors and igniters from other manufacturers in addition to Estes. Estes igniters draw 2+ amps so if you like clusters, the standard Estes launcher which is powered by (4) AA batteries has a rough time lighting 3 igniters. The Quest Q2G2 igniter have become popular for cluster rockets because they require much less current than an Estes igniter and can be used to ignite 4-7 motors clusters with (4) AA batteries in a modified Estes controller. https://www.questaerospace.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=7024B&eq=&Tp= Unfortunately the Estes launcher continuity bulb draws enough current on continuity check to active a Quest Q2G2 igniter, so many folks have modified Estes launchers with an LED that draws only 20 ma to check the continuity. This current will not activate the Quest Q2G2 and will greatly extend the battery life in any Estes launcher because it draws much less current than a light bulb. In addition, the lifetime of the LED is well over 10,000 hours whereas the light bulb will only last several hours. That's the other reason why many folks have recommended replacing the light bulb with an LED.

I hope this answers you questions.

Bob

bobkrech said:

MINIATURE BULB BA9S BASE is the keword.

Exact 6 volts replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/51_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/51.htm

Lower current 6 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/130_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/130.htm

12 volt replacement https://www.bulbtown.com/1445_MINIATURE_BULB_BA9S_BASE_p/1445.htm

None of the above lights are Quest igniter safe. You would need a lower current BA9S replacement.

Superbright LEDS has replacements that are Quest igniter safe. One rated for 12 volts will work at 6 volts but will draw 1/2 the current and be half as bright. They cost between $2 to $1.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fpt%2Fba9.html

Specifically https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi...ispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/ba9s_wide.htm#photos

Part#: BA9S-G-90-12V green-90 degree-12 volt

Part#: BA9S-G-120-12V green-120 degree-12 volt

They draw ~ 20 ma @ 12 volts and ~10 ma at 6 volts. They will also greatly increase your battery life. A $2 green one will appear to be the brightest to the eye.

Bob

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Bob, which would you recommend the 90 or 120 degree beam angle? I happen to need a replacement also. By the way I'm always amazed with the in depth information in your posts. Never ceases to amaze me! Thanks.