My boid, semroc kit #KA-6

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The strip of card stock was rolled up to fit the I.D. of the motor tube, then soaked with CA.

After the CA dried a notch was cut into the motor stop to fit over the top of the motor hook. Now the entire top of the motor will be in contact with the motor stop, not just the top of the motor hook.

Motor stop was glue in.

Good idea indeed !!

And yes ,super thin CA and a Q-tip is the only way to apply it for this application.Pretty much difference of throwing the whole can of paint at a wall or using a paintbrush ;)

Paul t
 
Back on topic, sort of ...

What do you think (or any others think) of the My Boid as a build for groups of kids? We've been recommending it under the assumption that kids would appreciate the variability in the kits. Each kid's rocket would be unique. But, I'm not sure that's true since we haven't actually used them for a group build yet.

-- Roger

Roger,

I have a friend that bought the "Bulk Boid" pack several years ago for just that reason and they were of the assorted variety. I'm not sure how many different versions there are but with the groups I helped with (Cub Scouts and 4H groups) the kids sure did seem to appreciate that their rocket was unique. Of course there is always the one kid that wants the one that his neighbor has...:rolleyes: I know there is a "Cherokee-Boid" out there, I had to really stop myself from sneaking that one into my bag... :D
 
I was reviewing a software design document once that contained a sentence that started with "The program responds to asynchronous tactile input ...."

It took me a while to realize that the author meant "typing."

Back on topic, sort of ...

What do you think (or any others think) of the My Boid as a build for groups of kids? We've been recommending it under the assumption that kids would appreciate the variability in the kits. Each kid's rocket would be unique. But, I'm not sure that's true since we haven't actually used them for a group build yet.
-- Roger



Roger,

I think it's a good idea to use 'The Boid' for a group building session. When I received my 'My Boid' I wasn't clear on the idea that there were so many different ones. I asked Semroc why the nose cone in the kit I received had a 2:1 nose cone and the art for the 'My Boid' had a 4:1 nose cone.

I received this answer:


From: Semroc Sales <[email protected]>
[email protected] To: 'Todd Brady' <bradycrosxxxxxxxx>
Cc: sales <[email protected]>
Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2011 12:48 pm

Todd,

The Boids are a series of kits for groups. There are over 240 versions that are randomly generated. We have 12 different fin patterns and over 20 different nose cones that are randomly selected to make each Boid built in a group session different from the others. The photos of the Boids are typical and do not necessarily represent all possible combinations.

If you are not satisfied with the nose cone in your kit, we will be glad to
send a replacement, from the following cones used in the Boids:

BC-812
BC-813
BC-814
BC-815
BC-817
BC-818L
BC-818
BC-819
BC-820
BC-821
BC-823E
BC-823
BC-826
BC-827
BC-828
BC-829
BC-830
BC-832
BC-832C
BC-833
BC-834C
BC-836
BC-837

Thanks,
Carl



I thought that was a mighty nice of Carl to make that offer, but I didn't want him to go to any trouble because of a misunderstanding on my part. I asked if it would be possible to pay for a 'My Boid' that was like the one on the cover art.

I received one 'My Boid' like the cover art for free in the mail in a very short period of time. Now that's GREAT customer service from Carl and Sheryl. If either one of you read this post I would like to thank you both again.

To be honest, I didn't like the looks of the 'My Boid' in this thread and would never have picked it out myself. But now that I've built it, its look has grown on me. I think its got that cool old timey retro look to it. I like it now!
 
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Good idea indeed !!

And yes ,super thin CA and a Q-tip is the only way to apply it for this application.Pretty much difference of throwing the whole can of paint at a wall or using a paintbrush ;)
Paul t


Thanks. Glad you like it.

I like your comparision!
 
I flew my Boid at the Alamo Open last month. Unexpectedly, it took 2nd place in the A altitude event.

One of these days I'll have a chance to update my threads...


Post a picture of your 'My Boid' here, we'd all like to see it. What was the winning altitude?
 
Leave it to a preacher to keep me honest. :clap:
 
A fish filter has a corner busted off and a wooden chair has a busted rung. JB Weld is being used to to repair them. Guess where the extra Weld went...

(pic 2)
Huh?... What?... You didn't...

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Oh yes I did...

The Weld was placed down in the wee tube with a pointy bamboo skewer. A bag of one hundred of 'em can be found in the kitchen utensils isle at Wally's for a buck. Wipe it off and it can be reused, again and again.

The motor mount is inserted at the top of the body tube and a dowel is used to push it down into place.

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Had the motor mount been inserted at the bottom of the body tube, the Weld would have been pushed up into the slotted area for the TTW fins. Also, removal of the Weld from that area would be a real PITA.

By inserting the motor mount through the top of the body tube, the centering ring self smears the Weld where it needs to be without leaving a mess to clean up. When the motor tube sticks out the bottom enough to grab, the motor mount is twisted (smearing the Weld around more) until the motor hook lines up with the tic mark made between two fins.

Having the motor hook between two fins allows easy man handling of the hook for motor removel.

Spaceman Spiff says; "A loop of string sliped on the end of the hook would allow you to pull back the hook and remove the motor, then slip the string back off".

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Spaceman Spiff says; My pizza box top is going to be made into a Fin Guide Tool".

Free templates can be made/gotten/created at www.payloadbay.com

shapeimage_1.png

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Cut the cardboard and template down to a practical size and stick 'em together.

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Do you cut on the outside of the line, the middle of the line or the inside of the line? Lay an edge of the fin on the template and you'll find out.

A small square was used as a straight edge.

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If the fin slot you cut is to tight, use an emery board to open it up. If you try to use a knife to open it up a bit you'll just mess it up.

After you've gone ahead and messed it up by using a knife anyways, you can use tape to shim up the ID of the fin slot to get back a good friction fit.

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When the motor tube sticks out the bottom enough to grab, the motor mount is twisted (smearing the Weld around more) until the motor hook lines up with the tic mark made between two fins.

Having the motor hook between two fins allows easy man handling of the hook for motor removel.

Spaceman Spiff says; "A loop of string sliped on the end of the hook would allow you to pull back the hook and remove the motor, then slip the string back off".

That's the best way to smooth out a line of glue (or JB Weld) on a centering ring.
Slide in place when the glue is wet, then turn the mount to even out the glue bead.
Finish turning the mount when the engine hook is centered between the fins.
See, some builder's understand how it should go together. Good work!

Yeah, Calvin and Hobbes was the best! Always my first stop in the Sunday paper.
 
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Do you cut on the outside of the line, the middle of the line or the inside of the line? Lay an edge of the fin on the template and you'll find out.

A small square was used as a straight edge.

The intent is for you to cut along the center of the line. But, of course, the actual size of the template will vary because of your printer or driver.

-- Rlger
 
The intent is for you to cut along the center of the line. But, of course, the actual size of the template will vary because of your printer or driver.

-- Rlger


There ya go! That's straight from Rlger. Thanks Rlger! ;)
 
That's the best way to smooth out a line of glue (or JB Weld) on a centering ring.
Slide in place when the glue is wet, then turn the mount to even out the glue bead.
Finish turning the mount when the engine hook is centered between the fins.
See, some builder's understand how it should go together. Good work!

Yeah, Calvin and Hobbes was the best! Always my first stop in the Sunday paper.


Thank you very much!
 
Spread some glue in the fin slot with a tooth pick and some on the fin's root edge. Then put everything into its place and let the Fin Guide Tool do its thing. Remove any excess glue with Q-tips.

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Sliced the top of the launch lug to aproxamate the angle of the fins leading edge insted of leaving it square, per instructions. Cut some off the end of the Lunch Lug to mimic the step from the Motor Tube to the Body Tube, rather then let the Lunch Lug end at bottom of the Body Tube, which is what the instructions call for.

Seem'd more like a natural progression for the eye to follow, eh?

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Well, it may not look like the cover art, but the retro look is pretty cool.

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Using a gray primer as the first coat of paint allows you to see all the boogers and blemishes you missed. Sanding the gray primer turns it a lighter shade of gray.

Spots that still show the original gray of the primer are low spots. These require more filler & work to get that really smooth paint job. Putting in this extra effort is left entirerly up to the builder.

Well, the picture of the Boid with gray primer won't upload.

A picture of the Wedgie showes the same work that's being done on the Boid.
 

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After the boogers are fixed, white primer is applied.

Filler.
Gray primer (My Boid picture won't upload, Wedgie stand-in).
White primer, Wedgie (stand-in) and My Boid.

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The white primer has an egg shell like texture. Very fine sand paper is used to smooth out the white primer surface. The My Boid is now booger free, very smooth and ready for finish paint.

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The white primer has an egg shell like texture. Very fine sand paper is used to smooth out the white primer surface. The My Boid is now booger free, very smooth and ready for finish paint.



Uhgggg.....Ralphy reminds me of most of my apprentices........what a bummer !


Paul T
 
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