I want to get started in mmx

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genzod

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I built a bunch of regular rockets, I would like to get started in mmx, what's a good kit , I was thinking quest super value kit , u get 6 rockets , launch, ect ? Or any other advice ? Kits ect ??
 
Buy the Super Value Set for the motors and the launcher with adapter. The RTF rockets in that set are pretty much worthless (we don't call them Little Plastic Bricks for no reason). Fliskits has some really nice mmx kits and parts (while ordering, I'd order some extra T2+, which is minimum diameter tube for MMX motors and some centering rings - especially T2+ to T5). I haven't tried the ASP or Leading Edge kits. But if you get some motor tube and T2+ to T5 centering rings, you can also turn the Estes Quark and 220 Swift into respectable MMX models. Easiest to add a bit of string (or Kevlar thread) for a shock cord and just make them nose blow recovery - you can secure the thread in the tip of the nose cone with a couple drops of epoxy.
 
Buy the Super Value Set for the motors and the launcher with adapter. The RTF rockets in that set are pretty much worthless (we don't call them Little Plastic Bricks for no reason). Fliskits has some really nice mmx kits and parts (while ordering, I'd order some extra T2+, which is minimum diameter tube for MMX motors and some centering rings - especially T2+ to T5). I haven't tried the ASP or Leading Edge kits. But if you get some motor tube and T2+ to T5 centering rings, you can also turn the Estes Quark and 220 Swift into respectable MMX models. Easiest to add a bit of string (or Kevlar thread) for a shock cord and just make them nose blow recovery - you can secure the thread in the tip of the nose cone with a couple drops of epoxy.
To be clear, "T2+," "T5," etc. are Balsa Machining Service (BMS) sizes. FlisKits sells 6mm motor tubing as "BT-2.5." If you look for something called T2+ on the FlisKits site, you'll be looking for a looooonnnnnggggg time. ASP calls the same tubing "T-MM."
 
NOT really Mark! BMS buys or bought, it's Tubing from Totally Tubular. T2 to T-xxx are their tube size designations.

T2+ is the universal minimum diameter body tube size originally coined by Totally Tubular to fit the then (early 2000) brand new 6mm MicroMaxx motors. Fliskits didn't exist or was just getting started, BMS wasn't offering anything other then balsa turning, Quest wasn't making craft bodytubes for the motor they'd recently invented and NO ONE on the planet had a clue as to what size craft tubes would be needed to produce REAL "you Build it" Micro models.

Together with Totally tubulars Owner, on request and a minimum 200- 34" tube order, we decided to add a tube size between the then nearly 1/4" T2 tubes actually .246" OD. and T3 (.375") tubes to fit micro motors .281" OD. adding the Plus sign T2+ designation. For almost 8 years these were the only Micro motor size tubes around. As such IMHO it deserves to be reconized as the standard designation T2+. Not sure why Fliskits, and ASP decided to rename the minimum diameter body size for their micro max lines.. since at least for a little while they were buying there tubing from Totally Tublar as well. I believe it's sort of like the Difference between Estes and Centuri Body tube sizing....Different simply to confuse the issue..... We just have to understand what we're looking for.
Micro Maxx minimum diameter tubing that is .281" OD. .255" ID .013" wall:)

As a famous man once said "And That's the rest of the story" LOL!!!!.

Ps: There is also a T2++ .316"OD. .290" ID .013" wall tube between T2+ & T3 if you need a Slide tube for micro gliders and such;)
 
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I built a bunch of regular rockets, I would like to get started in mmx, what's a good kit , I was thinking quest super value kit , u get 6 rockets , launch, ect ? Or any other advice ? Kits ect ??

As Mark and Greg have mentioned just about any of Fliskits, Asp, or leading edge kits are first rate.

You might also want to check out Micro Classics by e-mail, QCR for a few pretty impressive competition kits. and Quest Aerospace has recently started selling a very limited line of micro maxx parts (Different sized again LOL) for the LPB Motor line they invented:)

By all means don't forget to come join us Maxxer's over on the Micro Maxx rockets yahoo group as well! Loads of info, plans and pictures to spark your imagination there.
 
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FlisKits went with the BT-*** nomenclature as that matched the other body tube sizes we sell. When you get to the boundry tubes (BT-5/BT-20) we certainly didn't want to have a BT-5 in one area of the site and a T-5 in another (now THAT would be confusing).

Also, we never purchased tubing from Totally Tubular and, frankly, had no real knowledge of their numbering schema nor what lead to it...
 
I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??
 
I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??
Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.
 
Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.
Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.

Thanks again! Now off to order a few of these bad-boys......
 
Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.

Thanks again! Now off to order a few of these bad-boys......

Don't "PUSH" it in at all!
If you must use the toothpick method it's only ment to HOLD the igniter in by the weight of the MODEL holding it in. DO NOT PUSH IT into the nozzle or you MAY end up with a motor that looks like this and a MODEL IN MANY MANY pieces. The Toothpick method has been the only way I've seen to cause a CATO with MMX motors to date. IF you must use the method just lightly set the model onto the pick against the blast deflector just tight enought to hold the igniter in place NOTHING else;)

View attachment 18mm Slip-over rod MMX launch Adaptor-c_08-08-03.pdf
 
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Don't "PUSH" it in at all!
If you must use the toothpick method it's only ment to HOLD the igniter in by the weight of the MODEL holding it in. DO NOT PUSH IT into the nozzle or you MAY end up with a motor that looks like this and a MODEL IN MANY MANY pieces. The Toothpick method has been the only way I've seen to cause a CATO with MMX motors to date. IF you must use the method just lightly set the model onto the pick against the blast deflector just tight enought to hold the igniter in place NOTHING else;)
Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)
 
Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)

The Old Wadding ball and tape method is the way I've been pre-launch prepping both MMX-I and MMX-II motors for over a decade.

I'm using my own Bare Nichrome 30ga. .0100" Nichrome but also use the same method with Q2's both pyrogen coated and bare. it's just a little easier not having to work around the little glass bead. I generally hold the Q2 by the tip and spread the leads a bit between the bridge wire and glass bead. Just enough to allow a tiny piece of FP wadding to be placed between the leads.

It's a lot easier at home, on a hard, stable table rather then fighting wind and attention while trying to watch the next flight going off while readying motors.
Some haven't been able to get the hang of it..which is fine... In Testing: Stuffing a tiny piece of wadding in against the nichrome igniter and taping it with 1/8" masking tape as hard as I possibly could has not to date created any motor problem at all, Generally packing the wadding ball just enough to seat the ignitor firmly is all that's needed than add a little piece of tape. I've left motors pre-ignitored for months, which allows motors to be ready to pop into the model and on the pad in a jiffy while being able to support the model by the igniter leads in the micro clips alone.

Both methods appear to work fine...whichever helps you most to simplify the pre-launch preperation so try both methods...can't hurt...just do push the toothpick;)

11_8pic Wadding Ball install Pg_03-26-06.jpg

04_.5 than .25 wadding sit between leads.jpg

05_Tamp into nozzle with needle or burnishing tool.jpg

06_.125in.masking tape.jpg

08_completed motor & Several Tamp Tools.jpg
 
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I've been using toothpicks for years and have never had any issues. My MMX motor box always has at least as many toothpicks as motors in it which is more than enough. If you break the tooth picks in half you get two launches from each one. Works fine for MMX I and MMX II motors though I clip the pointy end back a little for MMX II motors.
 
The Old Wadding ball and tape method is the way I've been pre-launch prepping both MMX-I and MMX-II motors for over a decade.

I'm using my own Bare Nichrome 30ga. .0100" Nichrome but also use the same method with Q2's both pyrogen coated and bare. it's just a little easier not having to work around the little glass bead. I generally hold the Q2 by the tip and spread the leads a bit between the bridge wire and glass bead. Just enough to allow a tiny piece of FP wadding to be placed between the leads.

It's a lot easier at home, on a hard, stable table rather then fighting wind and attention while trying to watch the next flight going off while readying motors.
Some haven't been able to get the hang of it..which is fine... In Testing: Stuffing a tiny piece of wadding in against the nichrome igniter and taping it with 1/8" masking tape as hard as I possibly could has not to date created any motor problem at all, Generally packing the wadding ball just enough to seat the ignitor firmly is all that's needed than add a little piece of tape. I've left motors pre-ignitored for months, which allows motors to be ready to pop into the model and on the pad in a jiffy while being able to support the model by the igniter leads in the micro clips alone.

Both methods appear to work fine...whichever helps you most to simplify the pre-launch preperation so try both methods...can't hurt...just do push the toothpick;)
Cool technique! I like the idea of pre-setting them up prior to launch time.

Thanks for the pix too, btw.
 
To Genzod and Scoop 55,
You can use your standard 1/8" diameter rod and launcher with this MicroMaxx lug adapter.

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/12/micromaxx-launch-rod-standoff-tip.html

Brian Coyle, our local NAR section president, showed me this when I first showed interest in flying some MicroMaxx rockets.
It's very simple to make from a standard 1/8" lug, empty 18mm casing, tape and a .049" diameter MMX rod.
You could probably pick up a usable (cheaper) rod at some hobby stores.

MMX Standoff 001_WEB.jpg

MMX Standoff 002_WEB.jpg
 
To Genzod and Scoop 55,
You can use your standard 1/8" diameter rod and launcher with this MicroMaxx lug adapter.

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/12/micromaxx-launch-rod-standoff-tip.html

Brian Coyle, our local NAR section president, showed me this when I first showed interest in flying some MicroMaxx rockets.
It's very simple to make from a standard 1/8" lug, empty 18mm casing, tape and a .049" diameter MMX rod.
You could probably pick up a usable (cheaper) rod at some hobby stores.
Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?
 
Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?

You certainly could but it'd look awful funny...in some cases the lugs would be almost as large as the model body LOL!!!!

There are as many ways to Add-on .049" Steel or Stainless Steel music wire micro launch rods as there are people building and flying Micros these days.

Some like quick and easy, others want something a little more permanent or durable.
I built a bunch of these Slip-on .190" aluminum adaptors for our club. and a sister club in Richmond, VA. While they look "involved" they are just a slab of Alum with a thumb screw, 9/64" slide-on hole and z-Bent .049" Stainless Music wire Micro rods. They are designed to rotate out of the way so the launcher can be used for standard size models without having to remove the Micro launcher.
Just another way to get the most Micro's off at Club launches.

Vikings MMX Launcher&Box-k02_Done Lid semi-Open_01-09-09.jpg

Vikings MMX Launcher&Box-k01_3rd coat PolyU Done_01-09-09.jpg
 
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You certainly could but it'd look awful funny...in some cases the lugs would be almost as large as the model body LOL!!!!
:eek: Yeah, guess I'm not really visualizing the size of these. I'll stick with the supplied lugs.....
 
You really don't want to get into MMX. It is totally addicting. If you want the rest of your life to continue to be normal, stay away before it's too late. There is a growing cult starting to grow with Micromeister and Jim Flis as our leaders. HELP!

Larry in Illinois
 
DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......
 
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You really don't want to get into MMX. It is totally addicting. If you want the rest of your life to continue to be normal, stay away before it's too late. There is a growing cult starting to grow with Micromeister and Jim Flis as our leaders. HELP!

Larry in Illinois

LOL...too late!
 
DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......
Added 3 more from fiskits:

Big Honkin Rocket
Teeny Triskelion
Crayon - green

I think I'm set for a while.
 
Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.
Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. The toothpick is meant to act more as a support for the igniter when the rocket is turned upright and placed on the launch rod. It does double-duty as a stand-off at that point, too. Don't try to use it as an actual plug, though, like you would with, say, an Estes igniter plug. It needs to have a little bit of friction with the nozzle's exit hole to stay put and keep the igniter in place, but not much. Bad things can happen later on if you use too much force when you insert the toothpick. Use just enough pressure to keep it in place. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.

As discussed above, there are other effective methods for retaining the igniter in the motor nozzle. Try different methods so that you can have some basis for comparison and then choose the one that works best for you.
 
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Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.
Thanks for the info, Mark. New around here and afraid to ask, I just looked up what CATO means, and yes, I think that happened to me once during a launch. I was with the rocket club a few months back, so obviously using their launch pads, which had a rail setup with 5 rods in a row. I had Mean Machine on it with an E9. It was her first launch. My son pressed the button and that sucker just sat there and blew a flame out for a few seconds.....didn't move. I initially thougth somehow the retaining hook got caught on something preventing it from taking off. Then some guy said "hey kids, go check out what that engine did to the launch pad". Melted a nickel-size hole in the aluminum blast shield and burned the ignitor wires underneath. I didn't even want to go and retrieve the rocket, and claim it was mine! Back at my truck, and old timer came over, looked at the engine, and said I probably had a defective engine with a damaged nozzle. Probably my fault though, being too careless with the plug. I learned my lesson, and am still reminded of it every time we set up for launches....:blush:
 
Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...

launch pad.jpg
 
Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...
Yep, I plan on building a similar one. Just got my teenie launch rod in the mail yesterday.
 
Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...

I am making one of these for NARAM (just in case). It's nearly finished. I will mix up some epoxy and install the rod this afternoon after work.
 
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