I want to get started in mmx

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I just got a Teeny Triskelion, my/our first MMX. My daughter is fascinated by the MMX rockets, so off we go. It should be a lot of fun. :)
 
I just got a Teeny Triskelion, my/our first MMX. My daughter is fascinated by the MMX rockets, so off we go. It should be a lot of fun. :)

Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.

MM 341Lp02a-sm_MM Tiny Triskelion (Open Spot)_03-15-08.JPG

MM 341Lp02b_MM Tiny Triskelion on pad (Open Spot)_ 03-15-08.JPG
 
Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.

How did you paint yours? Mine is sitting on a shelf, primed and ready for paint, but it seems that masking and rattle cans would be difficult to get a paint job as clean and sharp as yours.
 
How did you paint yours? Mine is sitting on a shelf, primed and ready for paint, but it seems that masking and rattle cans would be difficult to get a paint job as clean and sharp as yours.

Tronman:
Mine was done with rattlecan paints..actually a mix of Old Forumla Krylon sun yellow, Duplicolor True Blue and ColorWorks Red over Walmart Cheapy Auto Grey primer.
Sorry I didn't think to take a few more photos during the painting process on either the Teeny or full size Triskelion:(

Because Yellow is so transluscent it must be applied by timing (constant pass speed with a single pass/1/4turn process.) that is starting and stopping well beyond the model the pass speed is maintained as closely as possible, while Making a single Pass then turning the model 1/4 turn before applying the next pass, continuing this for two complete revolutions. Pay NO attention to the blotchy look of the surface at this point. Allow the paint to tack-up for 5 minutes then repeat the process as closely to the same speed and pass turning as before. repeat this about 3 times to get a consistant color over the entire model. Don't worry about the fin tip plates as they will be painted red later. do pay attention to both side of the fins as they do remain yellow.

Once your satisfied with the Yellow coverage set the model aside for a day or until the sniff test tells you it is completely dry. Took almost a week in my Humidity at the time. If you base coated with white auto primer it is a little easier to get a "brighter" yellow. I just went with the grey primer which I think turned out fine.

With the Yellow completely Dry. I removed the Nosecone placing it in a ziplok baggie for safekeeping. Inserted a dowel with a wrap of masking tape to seal off the inside and a spent MMX motor in the motor tube. I'll be spraying the body in the up-side-down position. Used 3m Fineline green low tac tape at the fin/body and fin/tiplet seams with blue painters tape filler over the finished yellow fins, then sealed all exposed edges with Testors Dull coat to ensure no wicking under the taped edges.

Allowed the Dull coat to dry, then sprayed the entire body tube with True blue taking only a single wet coat to get a great finish. Again don't concern yourself much with the fin-tip plates underside, but do ensure they get an even exposed outer surface coat.

set the model aside again to completely dry without removing the masking. When the blue is dry tape off the body covering with plastic bag or what have you held in place with blue painters tape. make sure your seals are tight.

last a coat or two with high gloss red. When dry carefully remove the body wrap tape & plastic then remove the fin wrapping tape.

You may need to use a little finessit-II on the paint dams at the fin/body joints.
I cheated just a little in that I Printed decals to match the Blue body color and created the Teeny Triskelion name decal on my Alps.

Last step was to replace the provided toothpic spikes with custom cut Styrene half rounds and hand paint the exposed surfaces white.

After all decals and detail paint dried the model was swabbed down with a coat of future.

MM 341p2-sm_Teeny Triskelion_BaseCoat Yellow_02-01-08.JPG
 
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Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.
Seriously, excellent paint job there. I'll need to practice alot of patience when I start finishing mine. 5 of the 8 I ordered have arrived....waiting for the last few before I get rolling.
 
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DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......
Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)
 
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Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)
Andy is a first-class guy who produces first-class kits and components.
 
Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)

Yeap I'll second Marks post!
Andy is one of the class acts in the Mod-Roc kit business. Always attentive, prompt and top notch materials.
 
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Yeap I'll second Marks post!
Andy is one of the class acts in the Mod-Roc kit business. Always attentive, prompt and top notch materials.
Meanwhile....I'm still waiting for my last 3 MMX from fliskits. Been over a week and a half. Wonder if they don't have them pre-kitted or something. Maybe I'm just too impatient......
 
Meanwhile....I'm still waiting for my last 3 MMX from fliskits. Been over a week and a half. Wonder if they don't have them pre-kitted or something. Maybe I'm just too impatient......

Did your order include motors? If so they shipped parcel post which can take up to 10 business days... Keep me posted and if it didn't include motors contact me via email cuz it shouldn't have taken more than a couple of days.

Also, Mr. Larry raises a good point. Did you get an email from me telling you that they shipped? If not there may be an order problem at this end.

Keep me posted and we'll get you all set!

jim
 
Did your order include motors? If so they shipped parcel post which can take up to 10 business days... Keep me posted and if it didn't include motors contact me via email cuz it shouldn't have taken more than a couple of days.

Also, Mr. Larry raises a good point. Did you get an email from me telling you that they shipped? If not there may be an order problem at this end.

Keep me posted and we'll get you all set!

jim
No motors, just 3 rockets. But, I just noticed just now on your web page a statement: "FlisKits guarantees delivery of your order in 2-4 weeks upon receipt of your order with full payment (NOTE: As we progress and become more experienced, this ship time will be reduced). "

I missed that, so no worries!

Thanks, Jim!
 
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No motors, just 3 rockets. But, I just noticed just now on your web page a statement: "FlisKits guarantees delivery of your order in 2-4 weeks upon receipt of your order with full payment (NOTE: As we progress and become more experienced, this ship time will be reduced). "

I missed that, so no worries!

Thanks, Jim!

naw.... That's just protection for us should you order something not in stock and we have to order parts... Assuming you got a note that your order has shipped then you should have gotten it in a couple of days. If you DIDN'T get such a note drop me a quick email with details about the order and I will see what happened.

IMPORTANT! do this quickly as we shut down our shipping department in a few hours as we prepare for NARAM...

I look forward to hearing from you!
jim
 
... I just looked up what CATO means, and yes, I think that happened to me once during a launch.... My son pressed the button and that sucker just sat there and blew a flame out for a few seconds.....didn't move.... Back at my truck, and old timer came over, looked at the engine, and said I probably had a defective engine with a damaged nozzle. Probably my fault though, being too careless with the plug.
And just as likely to not have been your fault. In the 1000's-per-run production of these motors, odds are that a dud will get shipped. Estes is very good about standing behind their products, and will do what they can to make you a happy, repeat customer. They can be reached via: https://www.estesrockets.com/contact-us

Do you still have the motor in question? If so, a pic of the "engine" code , and one of the nozzle can get you warranty service. My daughter had the same happen with a Big Bertha at a launch with the Dallas club, and we received a pack of C6 motors AND a Big Bertha kit (her's did have minimal fin damage from the uncontrolled burn of a disappearing nozzle). Three days and in our mailbox made a big impression on both of us. Also, a report to NAR could help the hobby stay on track: https://www.nar.org/NARmessform.html

Back to the regularly scheduled MMX discussion. These guys all have great advice, and I highly encourage you to check out the MMX Yahoo Group mentioned by the Micromeister. There is a wealth of info there, and John McCoy is like the Black Powder Priest of the MMX altar. He has numerous files of rocket designs and support equipment offered up in the archives there. Lots of good tips and tricks.

A Cheap And Dirty (CHAD) MMX pad can be made by attaching a 3/4" - 1" strip of 1"x4" to the top-side at the end of a 5" or 6" piece of 1"x4". Drill a hole down through both pieces to allow it to slide down on a standard launch rod. Using the rod you've purchased, or .049" music wire (as John said), put a Z bend in one end of it, and drill a hole to accept it, up on the shelf you made with the strip of the 1"x4". About 1/3 of a spent 18mm motor casing, with slots cut on opposite sides, will hold the ignitor upright (with the leads passing through the slots) and allow the MMX rocket to sit down on top of it. This is nowhere near as elegant as the designs that John has, but it will work until you become a machinist.

These little guys are indeed addicting! At a recent contest in San Antonio with the Alamo Rocketeers, I flew in 1/8A Streamer Duration. This is a contest that you can have with yourself. Build the bird, figure out how to stuff a streamer into it (and then let me know!), launch it, and time the duration of its flight. Newbie me has a 3rd place ribbon to show for it, and a need to burn more powder. Good stuff!

Neither a machinist, nor a photographer,
Hal

MMX_CHAD_Pad-01.jpg

MMX_CHAD_Pad-02.jpg

MMX_CHAD_Pad-03.jpg
 
naw.... That's just protection for us should you order something not in stock and we have to order parts... Assuming you got a note that your order has shipped then you should have gotten it in a couple of days. If you DIDN'T get such a note drop me a quick email with details about the order and I will see what happened.

IMPORTANT! do this quickly as we shut down our shipping department in a few hours as we prepare for NARAM...

I look forward to hearing from you!
jim
Sorry, Jim, I didn't read this reply until this morning, so It looks like I'm outside the window. The only Email I received was one from Paypal the day after the order, July 7, copied below, no confirmation of shipping or anything. If they were shipped, I guess they could have accidentally been delivered to the wrong address......maybe a neighbor, GRRRRRR :mad:. I'll have to keep my eyes open for any suspicious launches of ultra small rockets on our cul-de-sac, LOL.



Jul 6, 2011 18:28:29 PDT
Transaction ID: 0NF33170VC0329714

Hello Steven -----,

You sent a payment of $30.45 USD to FlisKits, Incorporated ([email protected])

It may take a few moments for this transaction to appear in your account.
________________________________________
Merchant
FlisKits, Incorporated
[email protected]
Instructions to merchant
You haven't entered any instructions.
Shipping address - confirmed
Steven ------
(---------------------)
(San Diego, CA 92131)
United States Shipping details
Air Service
Description Unit price Qty Amount
MTTM Big Honkin Rocket
Item# MX015 $10.95 USD 1 $10.95 USD
MTTM Teeny Triskelion
Item# MX012 $6.95 USD 1 $6.95 USD
MTTM Crayon - Forest Green
Item# MX007FG $6.65 USD 1 $6.65 USD
Subtotal $24.55 USD
Shipping and handling $5.90 USD
Total $30.45 USD
Payment $30.45 USD
Payment sent to [email protected]
 
Could you please send this to me in an email? I will get right on this as soon as we get back (may even be able to tackle this from the hotel this week.)

jim
 
Could you please send this to me in an email? I will get right on this as soon as we get back (may even be able to tackle this from the hotel this week.)

jim
Will do, Jim. I'll send it to the address listed on your fliskits webpage.

Thanks again, and sorry to be a bother.
 
And just as likely to not have been your fault. In the 1000's-per-run production of these motors, odds are that a dud will get shipped. Estes is very good about standing behind their products, and will do what they can to make you a happy, repeat customer. They can be reached via: https://www.estesrockets.com/contact-us

Do you still have the motor in question? If so, a pic of the "engine" code , and one of the nozzle can get you warranty service. My daughter had the same happen with a Big Bertha at a launch with the Dallas club, and we received a pack of C6 motors AND a Big Bertha kit (her's did have minimal fin damage from the uncontrolled burn of a disappearing nozzle). Three days and in our mailbox made a big impression on both of us. Also, a report to NAR could help the hobby stay on track: https://www.nar.org/NARmessform.html

Back to the regularly scheduled MMX discussion. These guys all have great advice, and I highly encourage you to check out the MMX Yahoo Group mentioned by the Micromeister. There is a wealth of info there, and John McCoy is like the Black Powder Priest of the MMX altar. He has numerous files of rocket designs and support equipment offered up in the archives there. Lots of good tips and tricks.

A Cheap And Dirty (CHAD) MMX pad can be made by attaching a 3/4" - 1" strip of 1"x4" to the top-side at the end of a 5" or 6" piece of 1"x4". Drill a hole down through both pieces to allow it to slide down on a standard launch rod. Using the rod you've purchased, or .049" music wire (as John said), put a Z bend in one end of it, and drill a hole to accept it, up on the shelf you made with the strip of the 1"x4". About 1/3 of a spent 18mm motor casing, with slots cut on opposite sides, will hold the ignitor upright (with the leads passing through the slots) and allow the MMX rocket to sit down on top of it. This is nowhere near as elegant as the designs that John has, but it will work until you become a machinist.

These little guys are indeed addicting! At a recent contest in San Antonio with the Alamo Rocketeers, I flew in 1/8A Streamer Duration. This is a contest that you can have with yourself. Build the bird, figure out how to stuff a streamer into it (and then let me know!), launch it, and time the duration of its flight. Newbie me has a 3rd place ribbon to show for it, and a need to burn more powder. Good stuff!

Neither a machinist, nor a photographer,
Hal

Nice looking pad Hal! You really did well in the MMX SD contest. It was a little bit frustrating for me to take second place in an event that I prepared so long and hard for. I take some consolation in the fact that the fella who beat me built his rocket from one of my kits.:wink: I would like to see more MMX events at our contests but it seems that the interest among the group isn't quite there. As it stands now I worry about the future of any more contests at all for the Alamo Rocketeers. If we get another chance speak up for a MMX event! We micro enthusiasts need to push the agenda.

Sorry for the thread drift.
 
Nice looking pad Hal! You really did well in the MMX SD contest. It was a little bit frustrating for me to take second place in an event that I prepared so long and hard for. I take some consolation in the fact that the fella who beat me built his rocket from one of my kits.:wink: I would like to see more MMX events at our contests but it seems that the interest among the group isn't quite there. As it stands now I worry about the future of any more contests at all for the Alamo Rocketeers. If we get another chance speak up for a MMX event! We micro enthusiasts need to push the agenda.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Nifty MMX Pad Hal!
Just so you are aware.....it is not necessary to be a Machinist to build most of my pad and other Ground support designs.. just have access to scrap Aluminum, a drill or drill press and some threading taps.
One of the ever present things I'm reminded of by the better 2/3rds is to make everything Coffee Table constructable. To that I try very hard to keep materials and construction methods as basic as I can, while striving to make "LONG LASTING" ground support equipment. I'm sure you Pad will do you well for a good amount of time.

JPV:
You shouldn't be disappointed with a place or show in any PD or SD event. There is a LUCK factor involved with these type events that can't be overcome by any amount of practice or procedure. Thermal activity and field conditions will Always play an important part with such events.
Yet another reason i'm not all that into contest flying anymore.... Way to many other things to concern ourselves with that actually are Skill oriented;)
besides whatever outcome on the contest field, that and a 1.50 may buy you a cup of coffee. Getting the model(s) to work...As designed every time is a much bigger accomplishiment:) Hope these thoughts help a bit.
 
Launch Daddy, I like the method you came up with for holding the Q2 igniter. It's simple, inexpensive (basically, free) and it takes advantage of the stiffness of the wire leads of the igniter. I think that the MMX Q2 igniter was specifically designed to be used like that, with it supporting itself on its stiff legs and the rocket being lowered into the bridge wire loop. That was part of the concept of the original QMX igniters. MicroMaxx motors are so small, and their nozzles are so minuscule, that the plan was to install and connect the igniter on the pad underneath the rocket, and then lowering the exposed nozzle opening down onto the bridge wire loop when the rocket was lowered onto the launch rod. No need for a conventional igniter plug, because the igniter wasn't going anywhere once it was installed. One of the problems with the QMX igniters was that the loop was often a bit too wide, which prevented it from going all the way into the nozzle and contacting the propellant. The MMX Q2's have a much narrower loop, which is made possible by having the two leads held apart at a fixed distance by the glass bead. I was soured on the whole concept due to my frustration with the Silo launch pad, so I went with the conventional practice of inserting the igniter into the motor before putting the rocket onto the pad. But I'm interested in your holder; it seems like something that will be easy enough to create that it will induce me to once again experiment with the "MMX method" of insertion with the Q2s.
 
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