As the original poster for this thread I read the latest "necroposts" with interest!
I've been away for a few days and just saw this.
I'll say that since I originally posted this, I've learned quite a bit and my technique has changed. I use the "Micromeister foam brush application" method rather than a spray bottle. And, I do lighter coats with that technique than I was getting when I sprayed. I do a couple passes of "wick the hanging droplets" while it dries. And, as mentioned above, as it dries/sets, it goes through a very fluid stage, so even if all hanging drops seem gone, check again a bit later to see if any new ones re-appeared.
As for the Simple Green treatment... I rarely do this these days, and it isn't "needed" but it does make things even glossier. I do it sometimes where it will show, like a deep black nose cone or the like. But it is true that after the first time you take the rocket onto the field, it will blunt any differences. So, I occasionally do it out of vanity, but it's no big deal.
Also as an addendum to the original thread, I now use water-based acrylic paints airbrushed on for my LPR models. On occasion, Future will dissolve the paint just a little. It doesn't seem to matter which paint or how long it has set up... sometimes it holds fast, sometimes not. What works best is very thin Future coats that dry quickly.
I've been away for a few days and just saw this.
I'll say that since I originally posted this, I've learned quite a bit and my technique has changed. I use the "Micromeister foam brush application" method rather than a spray bottle. And, I do lighter coats with that technique than I was getting when I sprayed. I do a couple passes of "wick the hanging droplets" while it dries. And, as mentioned above, as it dries/sets, it goes through a very fluid stage, so even if all hanging drops seem gone, check again a bit later to see if any new ones re-appeared.
As for the Simple Green treatment... I rarely do this these days, and it isn't "needed" but it does make things even glossier. I do it sometimes where it will show, like a deep black nose cone or the like. But it is true that after the first time you take the rocket onto the field, it will blunt any differences. So, I occasionally do it out of vanity, but it's no big deal.
Also as an addendum to the original thread, I now use water-based acrylic paints airbrushed on for my LPR models. On occasion, Future will dissolve the paint just a little. It doesn't seem to matter which paint or how long it has set up... sometimes it holds fast, sometimes not. What works best is very thin Future coats that dry quickly.