A primer on Future Floor POLISH usage

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As the original poster for this thread I read the latest "necroposts" with interest!

I've been away for a few days and just saw this.

I'll say that since I originally posted this, I've learned quite a bit and my technique has changed. I use the "Micromeister foam brush application" method rather than a spray bottle. And, I do lighter coats with that technique than I was getting when I sprayed. I do a couple passes of "wick the hanging droplets" while it dries. And, as mentioned above, as it dries/sets, it goes through a very fluid stage, so even if all hanging drops seem gone, check again a bit later to see if any new ones re-appeared.

As for the Simple Green treatment... I rarely do this these days, and it isn't "needed" but it does make things even glossier. I do it sometimes where it will show, like a deep black nose cone or the like. But it is true that after the first time you take the rocket onto the field, it will blunt any differences. So, I occasionally do it out of vanity, but it's no big deal.

Also as an addendum to the original thread, I now use water-based acrylic paints airbrushed on for my LPR models. On occasion, Future will dissolve the paint just a little. It doesn't seem to matter which paint or how long it has set up... sometimes it holds fast, sometimes not. What works best is very thin Future coats that dry quickly.
 
I assume the rocket is vertical while the Future is being applied? Are people only doing this on smaller rockets or larger ones also? I've never tried any additional coating after regular painting, but I'm considering it. Have to pick up a bottle and try it on a small tube I test-painted for one of my rockets.
 
Define 'BIG". I did a kitbash Mean Machine with a Future finish. Worked great. I applied horizontal then stood it on end to dry.

Watch for drips!
 
I have done rockets 8" in diameter and will soon be doing my 10.25" dia Cherokee. Really no limit to size because the Future reflows and self-levels with every stroke so you can go up/down/around and as long as you have a slight overlap and the time interval isn't too long, say less than 15 or 20 min. you will be fine.
 
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By "big" I was thinking 4" and larger tubes and multiple feet long. For me I'm thinking about a 4" Nike Smoke, a 4" Binder Excel w/DD (~6' tall) and a Minie-Magg (5.5" but short). I've been trying to visualize how this stuff that sounds fairly flowable really goes on if you're turning the tube, seems to me it would always be running to the low spot and turn out very lop-sided, so that's why I wondered if it's painted on while the rocket is vertical (so it all runs towards the bottom). Maybe it just isn't as runny as I'm thinking it is, or has high surface adhesion or something (so it can somehow run/level but not leave lower coverage in the high spots), maybe it'll all make sense once I try it but the textual descriptions aren't forming a clear image in my head (one of those things that really needs a video I guess, not that I'm not thankful for the descriptions that do exist, the <15-20 minute window is certainly good to know).
 
I was using Future for a while but thought I'd give spray clear a try again. On my last rocket I used Rustoleum 2x for base color and clear coat. The clear crinkled the paint in a few places so I finished the upper half with Future.

On my latest build I used Rustoleum stops rust enamel color and crystal clear enamel for the clear. Paint was fine but my decals wrinkled up with the clear. Back to Future for me!

FWIW I apply my future with a foam brush on a vertical rocket or section with good results.

PS. I thought I'd try spray can clear again because I noticed the slightest yellowing of the previous rocket (mostly white) where future was applied compared to the section with 2x clear. But now looking at it again after it has flown a few times I can't tell the difference between the two sections.
 
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I applied Future to a white/blue NCR Eliminator about fifteen years ago. It has yellowed considerably, but it's been a long time....
 
I applied Future to a white/blue NCR Eliminator about fifteen years ago. It has yellowed considerably, but it's been a long time....

I have found that Future will react with some whites. In my case it happened right at the fillet area so don't know if it was a filler issue also. In any case, easy enough. I just stripped the rocket with an equal mix of water and ammonia. Went in and sanded/refreshed the fillet area and re-applied the Future. Good as new!!!
 
Well Folks all I can tell you for sure is Future at least has SOME UV Inhibitors built in. Very few Rattle can clears have Any UV inhibitor at all. With the exception of Krylon UV resistant Clear Gloss 1305 and Matte 1309 your Rattle can clears will Yellow very quickly when exposed to any uv source indoor or out.

PS: I think Duplacolor has a UV resistant clear also but that is about it.
 
Which nationl chain stores carry Future? I checked at the local Walmart but couldn't find it.

Best regards,
Brian
 
I don't buy Future. The label and branding change too often for me to keep up with. Go to Dollar General and get their generic 100% acrylic floor wax.
 
SCJohnson's current labeling doesn't mention Future at all, as far as I know. Try looking for this stuff:

FloorCare_MultiSurface_L.jpg
 
I think shooting acrylic paints through an airbrush and then using my recipe for mixing up future with simple green gave me the best results. The future dries really fast and the results are unbelievable. Someone mentioned earlier about going to the dollar store and getting some floor wax but future is not a wax. If you have problems finding this product like I mentioned before I suggest calling the company and get a link to their current labeling and retail location for this product. I may have ordered it online through Amazon or directly from the company I think that's what I did one bottle will last you many years. So off the top of my head just having read post my post it was 3 to 1 future and then diluting simple green one to one and then I shot that through an airbrush a few very light coats and I was good to go best results ever for a gloss coat
 
Someone mentioned earlier about going to the dollar store and getting some floor wax but future is not a wax.

There are many types of materials that are commonly referred to as wax that result in luster/shine--even Future in its original packaging. Clearly we are not referring to a cream wax. But there are generic brands if clear liquid 100% acrylic coating that work fine.
 
There are many types of materials that are commonly referred to as wax that result in luster/shine--even Future in its original packaging. Clearly we are not referring to a cream wax. But there are generic brands if clear liquid 100% acrylic coating that work fine.

I was wrong. The term wax applied to Future was apparently only in some foreign markets. The original Future was simply called "finish" versus wax or polish.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1467643446.161513.jpg
 
For clarity, as the OP of this thread, I've gone in and adjusted the title to "floor polish" instead of "floor wax" :grin:

Funny thing is the current bottles don't say "polish" either. :p The picture is in post #75, it's Pledge Floor Care (Multi-Surface) Finish. There are other Pledge Floor Care products, I think only the "Finish" is the acrylic product. Target had the others but not the acrylic, but when I searched I found that some Ace Hardwares carry it, including the one closest to me so I picked up two bottles though I haven't used them yet. But they look exactly like the picture in post #75 today, and the details on the label indicate that is an acrylic finish so it seems like the right stuff.

Actually, I was just at Ace Hardware's website where I found it originally and it no longer turns up. So I was going to include a link to their page, but perhaps they've stopped carrying it in the past month or so.
 
As long as it is an acrylic product.

" it's a breath mint and a floor polish"
 
I've used the Future "Finish" for several years now in plastic modeling, shot through an air brush - the Simple Green is absolutely NOT needed. It's fantastic stuff. I'm a little curious now to try it on a rocket using a foam brush applicator.
 
How thick is the coat of future supposed to be? I read some references to the acrylic being a good protective barrier to the paint. I did my first test of Future/Simple Green on a small rocket. It did add shine to it but, I'm wondering if I put too thin of a coat on.
 
How thick is the coat of future supposed to be? I read some references to the acrylic being a good protective barrier to the paint. I did my first test of Future/Simple Green on a small rocket. It did add shine to it but, I'm wondering if I put too thin of a coat on.

It is self leveling and goes on thin. Don't apply too much as it will cloud. Wait 8 hours and then apply a second, and even a third coat (after another 8 hours) for more protection and shine.
 
Well, it seems the Pledge/Simple Green doesn't like humidity very much. I read where a couple of members inquired about the effect of humidity with this top coat approach but never saw a definitive response. I applied 2 thin coats on a nose cone (24 hours apart) that looked incredible for 2 days. Then the humidity rose to the high 80's for several days and the top coat got very cloudy/milky.

I'm wondering if it is possible to shoot a crystal clear enamel coating over the Pledge/Simple Green top coat as a means of sealing it?
 

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