A primer on Future Floor POLISH usage

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Was mixing my first batch of simple green and pledge/future with the 'help' of my 4 year old son. I said, "Alex, hand me the future" Alex then smelled the Future. "Daddy the Future stinks!"
 
plastic_gorilla said:
"Daddy the Future stinks!"
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:rofl: Sorry about that buddy!

I sprayed my Vagabond with Rustoleum Lacquer clearcoat today and wasn't really impressed with the results. It was very hard to get an even sheen since it dries so fast, but at the same time you don't want to spray so much that it bubbles.

I will definitely be trying stinky Future in the stinky future.
 
So we sprayed the Quark, and it came out pretty shiny, I would do it again, but we plan on hopefully sending her on her maiden voyage on Wednesday.

I did the 1 part simple green to 4 parts floor finish. As a note for anyone who didn't see this before in any of the other posts - that stuff turns into glue. i had to score around the spent engine that i used to suspend the rocket while drying.

Any suggestions for masking?
 
vdotmatrix said:
You can probably use it on any kind of paint, I didn't mean to imply that it may not be compatible.

I was saying that spray canned paint contains organic solvents like xylene or acetone and being solvents, if you aren't diligent, you'll dissolve or partially dissolve the previous coat; we've all had the dreaded crinkling effect at the end of a paint job.

As a matter of fact, I suspect you could use it with little or no fear of disaster over any of those paints....caution: YMMV; I am no paint expert, perhaps someone else can elaborate on this point about paint compatibility.

Get an airbrush!!!!! You'll be so glad you did!!!!!!
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Yep, that is my problem. I've used rattle cans for everything. All different brands and colors. Never had any problems until this weekend. Repainting my rebuilt Thethys after a crash, I decided to just primer the repaired section. First coat was original color. Ran out of that and didn't want to go buy more. Had a different color on hand. Resprayed entire rocket with the new color. Did the second coat. All fine. Found a thin spot and decided to do a third coat. Crinkle time.... but only in one section of the rocket body tube?????? The repaired chunk with the thinnest layers of paint. What the heck!
Now trying to decide if I want to strip the whole rocket and start over, or fly wrinkled. The wrinkles match mine! I'm so confused:sigh::sigh:
Oh, new color was Dupli Color Paint.
 
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I'm having problems w/ the FutureGreen soaking into my BT at the ends and raising them to crack the paint. Its not very pretty =(. Im using Elmers Wood Filler to fill the BT swirl, BT connections and using CA to reinforce the leading and trailing edges.

Any help?
 
jd2cylman said:
Yep, that is my problem. I've used rattle cans for everything. All different brands and colors. Never had any problems until this weekend. Repainting my rebuilt Thethys after a crash, I decided to just primer the repaired section. First coat was original color. Ran out of that and didn't want to go buy more. Had a different color on hand. Resprayed entire rocket with the new color. Did the second coat. All fine. Found a thin spot and decided to do a third coat. Crinkle time.... but only in one section of the rocket body tube?????? The repaired chunk with the thinnest layers of paint. What the heck!
Now trying to decide if I want to strip the whole rocket and start over, or fly wrinkled. The wrinkles match mine! I'm so confused:sigh::sigh:
Oh, new color was Dupli Color Paint.
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UGGGGGG! Been there DONE that!!. AINT goin back. You can't be sure of the organic solvents used in paint cans and just when you are proud of the work you've done: CRINKLE WRINKLE. I have just gone back in and sanded the area down smooth and then allowed the damaged area to dry. A heat gun at very low setting > 200 degrees. But I cant take the suspense...

I finished my wife's initiator last friday...i sprayed 2 coats of white CREATEX with my airbrush, one coat at around 5pm, used my heat gun to cure it at around 9, and then shot another coat and heat cured it at 11.

I then shot a heavy coat of the FUTURE-GREEN and let it dry till morning. SO BEAUTIFUL!!!!

MY POINT: I shot 2 coats of color and a coat of future in 6 hours using airbrush paints with out a care anymore about crinkling-WHATSOEVER!!!!
 
dhurstell said:
I'm having problems w/ the FutureGreen soaking into my BT at the ends and raising them to crack the paint. Its not very pretty =(. Im using Elmers Wood Filler to fill the BT swirl, BT connections and using CA to reinforce the leading and trailing edges.

Any help?
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ugly!!!!

I PRIME ALL PAINT JOBS with 2 coats from a can.

I never thought of using CA to fill in the spirals!

How are you applying the FUTURE GREEN? Sounds like it is going on heavy and soaking into the paper of the BT; it is mostly water like ya know and this can be expected. It dries in about 20-40 minutes. but I would BLOT the ends next time with a paper towel and keep this FG away from unprimed/prepared surfaces or else!!:y:
 
plastic_gorilla said:
So we sprayed the Quark, and it came out pretty shiny, I would do it again, but we plan on hopefully sending her on her maiden voyage on Wednesday.

I did the 1 part simple green to 4 parts floor finish. As a note for anyone who didn't see this before in any of the other posts - that stuff turns into glue. i had to score around the spent engine that i used to suspend the rocket while drying.

Any suggestions for masking?
Click to expand...

Acrylic dissolves with WINDEX or ammonia. Sounds like everyone here is NOT using an airbrush and i can't imagine using this stuff without one and the mess it would make as it dries and it dries fast. MAsk with blue tape but i just can't help too much here. The air brush shoots a thin but adequate coat but thte last job I did I sprayed caution to the wind and put it on heavy....i had a few drips and caught them nearly tacky with a q-tip...wont go that heavy again with out diligence.
 
vdotmatrix said:
ugly!!!!

I PRIME ALL PAINT JOBS with 2 coats from a can.

I never thought of using CA to fill in the spirals!

How are you applying the FUTURE GREEN? Sounds like it is going on heavy and soaking into the paper of the BT; it is mostly water like ya know and this can be expected. It dries in about 20-40 minutes. but I would BLOT the ends next time with a paper towel and keep this FG away from unprimed/prepared surfaces or else!!:y:
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I'm using a layer of kilz to supposedly seal moisture out, and then a grey primer layer as well. My FG applicator has been a spray bottle, should I apply it in smaller amounts?
 
I'm returning to this old thread to ask a few questions.

I tried this yesterday on a small rocket, the Estes Reflector, and wanted to ask about how to get better results.

I used a spray bottle with straight Future (no Simple Green). I carefully dabbed the drips off the bottom. And I soaked the heck out of the rocket.

But the Future dried in streaks in a few places, and a few droplets solidified onto the rocket itself, rather than running off, leaving hardened acrylic bumps.

Also, the inner spiral groove on the payload section seems to have swelled, because it's now bulging out of the surface.

I can't really photograph the streaks, because they're not showing up clearly enough in pictures, but they're there.

I also neglected to loosen up the payload section from the transition shoulder, which was my bad. It was hard to get it apart, but I did it, after wiggling a hobby knife and fingernail in the joint.

DSCN2469.jpg

DSCN2472.jpg

DSCN2473.jpg

The rocket was looking pretty nice before I did the Future, but I wanted to try it out on a little rocket before doing it on something more expensive, just to see how it turned out, and see how easy it was.

So, my question is how do I do this without getting streaks or bumps on the rocket? Should I try wiping off the excess with a clean cloth? And how can I avoid getting the swelling of the internal spiral grooves? The nose cone is glued and painted onto the forward part of the payload tube, so I don't think it got in that way. Maybe it was the two tiny static ports near the transition, but I'm not sure.

Also, is there a way I can smooth out those bumps and streaks, without resorting to sandpaper? I don't want to sand through to the decals.

Anyway, it was a worthwhile experiment, and a cheap rocket. If I can figure out how to do this without getting streaks, bumps, or swollen body tubes, I figure it would be an easy way to seal down decals and get a nice shine on a less-than-stellar paint job. Even if I can't fix this one, it'll still fly, so no big deal.
 
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Hi did you also neglect to follow directions for the recipe for this .? I can't really comment because you didn't follow directions I had fantastic results . Try again
lcorinth said:
I'm returning to this old thread to ask a few questions.

I tried this yesterday on a small rocket, the Estes Reflector, and wanted to ask about how to get better results.

I used a spray bottle with straight Future (no Simple Green). I carefully dabbed the drips off the bottom. And I soaked the heck out of the rocket.

But the Future dried in streaks in a few places, and a few droplets solidified onto the rocket itself, rather than running off, leaving hardened acrylic bumps.

Also, the inner spiral groove on the payload section seems to have swelled, because it's now bulging out of the surface.

I can't really photograph the streaks, because they're not showing up clearly enough in pictures, but they're there.

I also neglected to loosen up the payload section from the transition shoulder, which was my bad. It was hard to get it apart, but I did it, after wiggling a hobby knife and fingernail in the joint.

View attachment 291958

View attachment 291959

View attachment 291960

The rocket was looking pretty nice before I did the Future, but I wanted to try it out on a little rocket before doing it on something more expensive, just to see how it turned out, and see how easy it was.

So, my question is how do I do this without getting streaks or bumps on the rocket? Should I try wiping off the excess with a clean cloth? And how can I avoid getting the swelling of the internal spiral grooves? The nose cone is glued and painted onto the forward part of the payload tube, so I don't think it got in that way. Maybe it was the two tiny static ports near the transition, but I'm not sure.

Also, is there a way I can smooth out those bumps and streaks, without resorting to sandpaper? I don't want to sand through to the decals.

Anyway, it was a worthwhile experiment, and a cheap rocket. If I can figure out how to do this without getting streaks, bumps, or swollen body tubes, I figure it would be an easy way to seal down decals and get a nice shine on a less-than-stellar paint job. Even if I can't fix this one, it'll still fly, so no big deal.
Click to expand...
 
Man I have to go back and find the recipe for the future with the simple green and all I think the simple green acts like a wetting agent
vdotmatrix said:
Hi did you also neglect to follow directions for the recipe for this .? I can't really comment because you didn't follow directions I had fantastic results . Try again
Click to expand...
 
And here's your problem:

lcorinth said:
...I soaked the heck out of the rocket.
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Future should be applied in multiple thin layers. If you get pooling, excessive dripping, streaking, etc. then you have the acrylic drying in layers and gumming up. If you put on enough to soak in and bulge the spirals shows that it was way too much. A light coat should dry within 10 minutes or so. You then wait 8 hours and put on a second coat. My preferred application method is by foam brush.

I don't know how bad your drips/streaks are, but normally applying another thin layer of future removes any undulations as it liquifies and self-levels with each successive layer.
 
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dixontj93060 said:
And here's your problem:



Future should be applied in multiple thin layers. If you get pooling, excessive dripping, stealing them you have the acrylic drying in layers and gumming up. To put on enough to soak in and bulge the spirals shows that it is way too much. A light coat should dry within 10 minutes or so. You them wait 8 hours and put on a second coat. My preferred application method is by foam brush.

I don't know how bad your drips/streaks are, but normally applying another thin layer of future removes any undulations as it liquifies and self-levels each successive layer.
Click to expand...

Well, according to the original post, the rocket should be sprayed "to saturation," totally wet, which is how I went about it. But after I was done, I wondered if a lighter application might have worked better.

I didn't use the Simple Green, because I didn't have any, but the OP seems to imply that it's optional. Still, if it does act as a wetting agent, perhaps that would help too.

I think I'll try this again, but on some painted scraps - just a body tube and a nose cone - rather than on a whole rocket, just to see if I can get the technique down.
 
I wouldn't use any polish or wax on my rockets that I wouldn't use on my car. And I wouldn't use floor polish on my car.
 
lcorinth said:
Well, according to the original post, the rocket should be sprayed "to saturation," totally wet, which is how I went about it. But after I was done, I wondered if a lighter application might have worked better.

I didn't use the Simple Green, because I didn't have any, but the OP seems to imply that it's optional. Still, if it does act as a wetting agent, perhaps that would help too.

I think I'll try this again, but on some painted scraps - just a body tube and a nose cone - rather than on a whole rocket, just to see if I can get the technique down.
Click to expand...

Nor do you need simple green, I use Pledge w/ Future on all my rockets. DixonTJ is right on, we are NEVER to saturate a model with Furture on any clear coat period. I don't know were the OP got such misinformation but if it says apply a soaking coat it is DEAD WRONG.
Apply in a series of very light coat if using a pump sprayer. Or do as I do applying Future with a piece of Foam polybrush. After it is applied the model is closely watched while the future dries. during the very last seconds before Future sets it becomes very liquid causing some small droplets to form on edges and around transitions. These can easily be wicked away with the corner of a dry paper towel piece.
Never apply heavily. and forget about Simple Green is simply isn't necessary period.
 
Micromeister said:
Nor do you need simple green, I use Pledge w/ Future on all my rockets. DixonTJ is right on, we are NEVER to saturate a model with Furture on any clear coat period. I don't know were the OP got such misinformation but if it says apply a soaking coat it is DEAD WRONG.
Apply in a series of very light coat if using a pump sprayer. Or do as I do applying Future with a piece of Foam polybrush. After it is applied the model is closely watched while the future dries. during the very last seconds before Future sets it becomes very liquid causing some small droplets to form on edges and around transitions. These can easily be wicked away with the corner of a dry paper towel piece.
Never apply heavily. and forget about Simple Green is simply isn't necessary period.
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Cool. I'll try that next time. It's too late for this model, but I figured it was worth a shot.
 
This thread needs pictures. I want to see a good floor polish finish. Close up.
 
IMG_0125 (768x1024).jpgDSC01403 (533x800).jpgDeimos head on 11-17-12 GB.jpg

Not the best close-ups but the best I have handy. I started using Future for the "tough acrylic protection" that used to be prominent on the label. Any additional shine was a happy byproduct. Applied straight using a paper towel on the Fat Boy and foam brushes on the Barracuda and Deimos. One stroke, one direction, limit overlap.
 
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These are the best pics I have handy at the moment. My Future results vary but when it all clicks it looks great.
FullSizeRender 6.jpgbluetiful.jpg
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1447623703.532260.jpgImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1457295007.863847.jpg
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1459121036.913750.jpg

I apply with foam brush, and dab the excess off as it dries.
 
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So, I've just discovered another drawback to dowsing the thing completely. I hung some newspaper on the wall behind the rocket to protect it, but didn't take it down right away. I didn't realized the Future had soaked through the paper.

It basically got plastered to the wall... We managed to get it off, but we're going to have to either live here long enough to claim "reasonable wear and tear," or I'm going to have to paint the wall. Oops!
 
lcorinth said:
It basically got plastered to the wall... We managed to get it off, but we're going to have to either live here long enough to claim "reasonable wear and tear," or I'm going to have to paint the wall. Oops!
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A weak mix of ammonia and water will dissolve Future so you don't have to rip anything off your wall :).
 
dixontj93060 said:
A weak mix of ammonia and water will dissolve Future so you don't have to rip anything off your wall :).
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I should've come here first, I guess. The girlfriend was none too pleased. But I managed to get the paper off with minimal damage using water and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. There's some slight discoloration from the newspaper, but if we're here long enough, they'll repaint anyway, so the cause of the discoloration will become moot. Otherwise, I'll get to paint the wall myself.
 

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