First we need to prep the Kevlar.
Apply a drop of medium CA to the frayed end.
Using back of pliers roll this into the fibers.
First we need to prep the Kevlar.
Apply a drop of medium CA to the frayed end.
Using back of pliers roll this into the fibers.
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 02:12 AM.
In the series you'll see I've drawn a reference line on cut surface to show you the acute angle cut I want you to make on the Kevlar. This will make the kevlar act as a needle.
Go ahead and thread Kevlar through first hole.
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 02:16 AM.
Oh My Brothers and Only Friends, Here is all that's left of this step.
Weave Kevlar in and out of holes, tie a simple overhand knot in the bitter end.
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 02:21 AM.
Pull it down tight!!
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 02:27 AM.
Easy Peasy Rite!
Next, Let's install the ctr ring.
Knotted end at back, elastic to the front.
Take a dowel and form a short truncated cone on the end.
Look closely at ctr ring , There are two hole patterns.
Both start from a hole at zero degrees.
You want to use the 90 degree pattern as this rocket has four fins.
Drop a needle or a wire through forward hole in frame all the way through other side. This will act as a stop.
Using the dowel align the zero hole with any hole at back of frame. Press ctr ring forward until you stop against pin.
Remove Pin and press forward 1/8". You should see hole, If not turn dowl gently to locate hole. When you see it, stop, check other holes for alignment.
Install four the 2-56 x 3/16 screws.
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 11:10 PM.
Take a break grab a soda and a smoke.
Clear your head.
Remember the build is fun too. If you think about it you only get to do it once, so enjoy it, learn from it.
I hope you might learn a thing or two along the way.
More tomorrow!
Later Dudes!
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 02:34 AM.
Hello Everyone,
As Promised I'm gonna post more tonight. I don't know how far I'll get, Frankly I'm give out from a long day. I managed to make some 54mm Loki type forward closures for myself. went my anodizing tanks just realize I need some chems. Got that ordered, edited 18,000 lines of code for nose cone mould. Cut the mould through all roughing passes. Corrected several errors on different things (comercial) and tested some night launch stuff. The testing lead to a total redesign on the next 24mm rocket Nose cone bulkplate. I found a very reasonable LED system and I want you all to be pleased. I keep my promises!, I want this line of rockets to offer you the most bang for the buck I can give.
In the following photos you will see wooden wedges used in the thru fin slots.
Please ignore those, I tested a better material that gives the same strength and is easier to install.
Okay Here we go........
First, Locate a small 6-8" half round file.
A small piece of tape and a 2x2 cut out of shop cloth.
You'll also need PVC cleaner
Med CA , CA accelarator
flush cutters/ scissors
and a bit of 120# Sandpaper
Apply tape and cloth to the blunt end of your epoxy stick.
I buy mine at Ingles, they are for shish kabobs. You can also get a handful of Chop sticks at the Chinese joint!
Last edited by Eric1; 7th June 2011 at 11:49 PM.
Take the small piece of polystyrene in the kit and sand a knife edge.
Then using flush cutter nip off a total of 8pcs, 1/4" x 3/8" or there about.
Place a fin onto and through frame, notice the tiny slot on inside wall. This is where the plastic wedges you've just made will go.
Place the beveled end (sharp side up ) into the fin slot. Press in place with edge of file.
Notice the slot on the fin does not clear the airframe tube.
This is Intentional!
This what makes a mechanical lock with wedge.
By doing this the fins pretty much self align.
The wedge should not Fall in!!!
That said, If you simply cannot get it in, use this method to open the fin slot a LITTLE.
Hold the fin at a 45 degree angle and using a medium duty blade move it back and forth on both sides to remove stock. Keep checking if you can work wedge into place. Try to remove as little as possible.
Move toward the forward slot. I know this is tricky but If I can do it so can you!
Here's how to get the wedge in place.
Put wedge on you index finger facing up. With the fin your working aslo pointing up
carefully move you finger inside past the Ctr ring.
Now rotate the rocket and your finger till it's facing down. The wedge will be where you can work it into place with your file.
Continue until you have all four fins in place.
Last edited by Eric1; 8th June 2011 at 12:45 AM.
I like your style Eric......I`d have a drink with you anytime
I`m watching your build and can`t tell you how impressed I am with the quality of the parts and the way they are engineered....blows me away brother !!
If these kits are not a huge success ,then something is wrong with the world.
I look forward to your bigger high power stuff ,cause that`s what I`m looking forward to.
Now I know why you call it Bad Azz........hell ,what else would you call them ?
Take care
Paul T
ROCKETRY DELINQUENT ,I put my soul in what I do.
I built a rocket, and on the seventh day ,I rested
Level 3
CAR 1033
Manitoba Rocketry Group
CTI a better way to fly !
I'm very impressed with your craftsmanship and style.
The process is continuous...
I pretty much subscribe to all the badazz threads. I made a spot in my collection for some badazz kits.
Thank you so very much! I Really do care about the feedback Fellas!
I can only build them the way you want them. I'm doing them the way I would want to get a kit.
I still need to know what you like!
Otherwise, I'd just build them for myself.
You matter to me, I'll never throw 90% in a sack and call it a Freaking Kit.
Everything I make will be made in my home country.
I don't care if China or Mexico or where ever is cheaper, I'll keep my people employed.
Last edited by Eric1; 9th June 2011 at 01:34 AM.
Let's get back to it!
First, You need a sharpie marker. I want you to draw a circle on the inside of frame at the back of each fin slot until you connect them.
Behind this black cicrle is a no glue zone! Keep checking as you go, if you drip, clean it up quickly, or your motor retainer will not go in!
Also, Remember the shop rag I had you place on the end of your stick?
It will be used to keep epoxy off of the inner fin edge you see in black.
This is about skill and precision!
"Bigger the glob the better the job" Won't work here!!
Mix a dime size pool of this epoxy.
Pick some up on your stick, Let it drip that first glob on to your mix station.
Quickly place epoxy on both sides of forward fin and wedge.
Check for epoxy on fin top and centering ring. If it's there Remove it now!
Notice in the frame how I've epoxied the Kevlar next to the fin.
That will keep it out of the way!
Okay, repeat for the rear fin, Check the "Circle of Death" for errant epoxy.
You got it, clean it up if it's past the circle![]()
Wait 20minutes (I don't care what the epoxy package says, whom ever printed the lie on the label never used this stuff) with the fin at rest facing down.
Repeat until all fins are epoxied and cured.
Find the Retaining ring and align it in the frame.
Also get out the 2-56 x 3/16" socket head cap screws
there are 4 of these. These go through the frame and screw in to the retainer.
The longer (2-56 x 1/4") screw is what retains your motor!
The front hole is for Aerotech and Cesaroni
You will have to remove the stickers off of your cases.
Last edited by Eric1; 9th June 2011 at 03:02 AM.
The rear hole is for single use Aerotech.
The single use may need a swipe with sandpaper.
These are injection moulded plastic and vary quite a bit.
If you motors don't go in you may have to clean up epoxy off center ring or top of fins or your Kevlar is in the way.
That means get out a half round or rat tail file and fix the problem.
But this isn't gonna happen to you is it???![]()
Last edited by Eric1; 9th June 2011 at 03:06 AM.
Dude, looks sweet!
What are alt
Projection per given motor for this kit and do you think there is room for a tracker?
I don't know about the tracker, I've never used one. I'll ask my Bro Crazy Jim.
He uses them, but you know he has to!
He'll be the first man to fly a 29mm Rocket into the Exosphere!
These are rocksim projections:
E15w-7 1600'
F21w-8 2200'
F39t-9 2600'
G37-6 5400'
G150Bs-13 4200'
I've flown on a F24-7 with an Adept alt. it logged 2100'
Peace, Love and Happiness!
Sweet! Gotta jam some G's in these looks like....lol that's why I was asking about the tracker....I trust Jim, him and Tim helped me with my first AMW reload years back...old fart prolly dosent remember that though....lol
Man! This has been a roller coaster ride today!
Anyway, Let's get to work on the external fillets.
Here is the what you need to do these like I do:
PVC Cleaner, mixing board, carnuba wax,
cheap hair spray (aka mould release),
3/8" dowels (mine are what else aluminum scrap)
carpenters pencil (soft lead!!)
Blue tape or frog tape
Of course the Loctite epoxy I've already shown twice.
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:08 AM.
Right,
Now we prep our dowels,
A light roll coat of wax, let haze and repeat once.
After the second haze, use a shop cloth to Roll wipe the wax.
I do this to keep the build up thin.
Next the dowel(s) get a light spray of hairspray.
How Chicks wear this stuff in their hair is beyond me, I'm pretty sure if Gradpa kicks the bucket you could save some coin at the mortuarary and just hose him down with hairspray. Let him set up for a few hours and he'd be ready to stand in a corner!
Anyway,This seals the wax under a thin "skin", you don't want wax in the epoxy.
I think this extra steps help when dragging the wet epoxy fillet.
Maybe it's me, but I got nothing better to do!
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:10 AM.
Remove Center ring screw on the surface your are gonna epoxy.
Clean surface with Pvc cleaner.
Lay prepped dowel into fin/tube joint.
Useing carpenters pencil lightly mark fin and tube tangentcies.
Normally this would be the epoxy line. On this rocket adjust the line to cover the holes at root of fin. It's a style thing.
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:16 AM.
Measure across the two marked lines. Here I have .472"/12mm.
I know this is a Linear (quadrant measurment) The circumference is longer, Therefore I can cut 3, 6mm strips to cover center of tube.
After tape up you should look like this 013.jpg
NOT THIS 012.jpg
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:23 AM.
Standard sandpaper prep,
Quick wipe with pvc cleaner.
Tape up front and install boatail and tape it.
Mix up about a nickel sized amout of epoxy.
Pick some up on the tip of your stick and apply it with a little twisting motion into the joint. If go slow you can avoid air bubbles this way. Once you have an even layer just before your tape line, use the prepped dowel at a acute
angle to create fillet. Drag the dowel from front to back.
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:28 AM.
Your wet fillet should look like this.
Set rocket level and place under a lamp.
After 7 minutes remove tape. and return under lamp.
Check left over epoxy for full cure, Don't touch the fillet on the rocket for this test. If its wet you will smugde your beautiful fillet.
Clean up tail cone with PVC cleaner.
After complete cure
Return screw to ctr ring, Rotate and do the other three.
Now those are some BaddAzz Fillets!!!!!
Last edited by Eric1; 11th June 2011 at 04:33 AM.