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Thread: I hate painting rockets...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    30th March 2011
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    I hate painting rockets...

    Seriously. I hate painting rockets like I hate root canals.

    I fill the spirals and the fins.. I sand it down well, I primer, sand again. Attach fins, put on fillets, sand down again. Then paint.
    I always go too heavy on the first coat and get runs. I tell myself, this time I am going to go very light on the first coat.. but no, I don't. So after sanding down the runs, I paint again. And if I don't get runs I get cracking, or orange peel. Sand it down again and repaint. Repeat this process another 1-3 times and I end up with a fairly good finish, albeit slightly heavier..
    And I don't know whats up, but the last couple cans of spray paint I've bought want to come out and shoot thick wads of crap every once in a while and make these horrible bumps all over the surface.
    I'm close to flying naked rockets, I swear...
    Does anyone have any advice for me? Any write ups about finishing? Some good pictures of the process? Help.. please...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekage View Post
    Seriously. I hate painting rockets like I hate root canals.

    I fill the spirals and the fins.. I sand it down well, I primer, sand again. Attach fins, put on fillets, sand down again. Then paint.
    I always go too heavy on the first coat and get runs. I tell myself, this time I am going to go very light on the first coat.. but no, I don't. So after sanding down the runs, I paint again. And if I don't get runs I get cracking, or orange peel. Sand it down again and repaint. Repeat this process another 1-3 times and I end up with a fairly good finish, albeit slightly heavier..
    And I don't know whats up, but the last couple cans of spray paint I've bought want to come out and shoot thick wads of crap every once in a while and make these horrible bumps all over the surface.
    I'm close to flying naked rockets, I swear...
    Does anyone have any advice for me? Any write ups about finishing? Some good pictures of the process? Help.. please...
    Don't feel alone, because if there's anyone out in this forum that says they NEVER had a problem with painting then they are lying.

    We have all been through it at some point in our building of rockets.

    First of all it sounds like you have the prep work down pat, so no worries there.

    The problem your having with the paint sounds like the issues I had with Rustoleum Gloss White. You spray and the paint comes out in clumps and it looks horrible. Not your fault my friend. That particular paint is that way, but I have never had any problems with their other colors, strange as it may sound. Also be careful when you get to the bottom of the spray can...that will cause the spray to come out in clumps or droplets...always make sure you shake the can well...I also sometimes leave the can in the sun for awhile just to warm the paint.

    What I like to use is Duplicolor primers and paints. Testor's makes good paint and has a wide selection, but they are expensive!! When I first started back in rocketry a couple years ago, I bought Testor's exclusively, but that's when Hobbylinc was selling the cans for $2.69 and I didn't think much of it, but now they are well over $4 a can. So for the money I like Duplicolor. What I like about Duplicolor is the paint comes out in a finer mist and it allows you better coverage. It's a better quality paint and so are their high build primers.

    As far as technique to get a good paint job....you want to spray close enough to where it won't run and and give the finish that "wet look" if you spray too far away then you get a pebble like finish...this takes practice, but I would suggest get a few body tubes and practice painting those until you get the hang of it. Go through the whole process of filling the spirals and sanding and primer. So if you screw up it's not on one of your rockets. I do the same thing if I am trying anything new, whether it's a new paint or balsa filler or just any new technique...saves a lot of frustration. Also if you spray outside, try and do it on a calm day and if the wind is blowing slightly always make sure it's at your back.

    Also on your final coat of primer after it dries thoroughly, you may want to consider wet sanding it with 600 grit. Just enough to dull the finish and eliminate all the shiny spots. This makes the top coat go on real smooth and you get great results...always spray light coats first and not heavy...first coat is the tack coat and from there I usually go 2-4 more coats and a little heavy with each coat...depending on the size of the rocket you can use a wood dowel to insert in the rear of the rocket and this will allow you to turn it as you spray...keep the coats even and never stay too long in one area...always rotate the rocket...

    If you are adding different accent colors, like to the fin can area, make sure the topcoat is completely dry before masking the area you want painted. I use the cellphone low adhesive tape..I think it's called photo tape. You sharp crisp lines and the paint line is hardly noticeable because the tape is so thin.

    Just take your time and don't rush it....patience is everything in this hobby...whether you are assembling the rocket or painting. Take your time and enjoy the process...it's a hobby, not a race.

    One other technique that I use is that on the last coat of primer I always spray it gray. I use the red primer to do all my body work and repair and sanding and then the very last coat when I know I am happy with the results I spray gray, because when I wet sand and the red starts to come through I know I should let up be fore going too far...it kinda acts as a warning. You never want to sand through to cardboard or else you will have more issues.
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    Last edited by pokerace721; 22nd April 2011 at 05:48 PM.

  3. #3
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    Hmm

    Well then do what I do and flyem' naked.
    -----------------------
    Chuck Haislip
    NAR/Tripoli Level 3

    Level 1 - LOC Minie Magg; Level 2 - PR Broken Arrow;
    Level 3 - 10 inch Nike Smoke
    Ns for Year: 0 on hiatus serving our GREAT country in Kuwait
    My rockets usually fly naked. If they survive, they earn their paint.

    Come fly with ROSCO or ICBM in Orangeburg SC => http://rocketrysouthcarolina.com

  4. #4
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    You guys make me Ill "Naked Rockets"

    LOL just kidding. I am a lowsy painter myself that half the reason I ended up doing decals.

    Painting is a CURVE. give it time you will get better. some days will go perfect, others won't. I can honestly say I have NEVER painted a rocket, and not messed it up somewhere.


    I am sure you will More great advice here than I can give. just hang in there.


    "NEVER FLY NAKED"
    Custom Vinyl decals,
    STICKERSHOCK23.COM


    Stickershock23@gmail.com

    No matter how much you push the envelope.
    it'll still be stationery.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stickershock23 View Post
    You guys make me Ill "Naked Rockets"

    LOL just kidding. I am a lowsy painter myself that half the reason I ended up doing decals.

    Painting is a CURVE. give it time you will get better. some days will go perfect, others won't. I can honestly say I have NEVER painted a rocket, and not messed it up somewhere.


    I am sure you will More great advice here than I can give. just hang in there.


    "NEVER FLY NAKED"

    Put it in a box, ship it to me, I'll shoot your base colors for you....
    and good old Mark can supply you with the graphics...


    It's a win win win!



    All jokes aside....

    It's a learning curve thing for sure.

    Being patient before you become a patient in its own is half the battle. Most of what I sense from your post sounds as if it is cure/recoat related issues and compatibility.
    Now did the Lord say, "First thou pullest the Holy Pin. Then thou must count to three...."

  6. #6
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    I worked as an Industrial painter. That means I didn't paint cars or houses, I painted bridges, hot mix plants, water tanks, D8 Cats, you get my drift.

    Oddly I don't get runs unless it's really too cold to be painting. Main thing is keep the rocket turning, paint a strip, turn, paint a strip, turn, and keep going until you can see the places you've painted start to looking wet then no more. Now look for skipped places and fill them in.

    It's soooo hard to describe something that you do naturally but I've had the experence of painting ACRES of steel in all kinds of weather and there's just no replacement for experence.
    "Isn't gravity a funny thing?" - Todd Rundgren

  7. #7
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    I also hate painting. I prime and sand, then prime and sand, then paint and sand, then paint and sand, then paint. The rocket always looks better after sanding than after painting. While finishing my last rocket, I read about Future, discussed in many threads on TRF. When I finished sanding my second coat of paint it looked nice and smooth, though dull from the sanding. I decided to skip the finish coat and just go straight to the Future. It didn't turn out half bad. It's not as glossy as a true finish coat, and doubtless there are those on TRF who could do much better, but it satisfied me, and kept me from tearing my hair out on the finish coat.

    One nice thing about Future vs paint is that it is easy to strip with ammonia and reapply when the finish gets dull. I have only done one rocket this way, but I will definitely be trying this again. YMMV.
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    Kevin Dunn
    Hovar.org
    WildmanVA.com
    NAR L1 Oct 2010 Battle Park
    TRA L2 Mar 2012 Battle Park

    Total 2013 Impulse: 892 Ns (39% J)
    2013: 6 Motors Burned: ((164+110+93)+(0)+(108+159+258))/640-1

    Total 2012 Impulse: 8104 Ns (58% M)
    2012: 33 Motors Burned: ((166)+(217)+(229+648+168)+(110)+(93+125)+(108+160 )+(160+159+258+1874+108+159)+(125)+(138)+(315+159) +(166+164+298+168+168+660+159+282)+(229+56+52+107+ 116))/5120-1

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jFlds View Post
    Put it in a box, ship it to me, I'll shoot your base colors for you....
    and good old Mark can supply you with the graphics...


    It's a win win win!



    All jokes aside....

    It's a learning curve thing for sure.

    Being patient before you become a patient in its own is half the battle. Most of what I sense from your post sounds as if it is cure/recoat related issues and compatibility.


    Watch for a package....
    Custom Vinyl decals,
    STICKERSHOCK23.COM


    Stickershock23@gmail.com

    No matter how much you push the envelope.
    it'll still be stationery.

  9. #9
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    I have a challenge for you Mark. I want to see an entire rocket covered in vinyl. The only exception , maybe the nose cone, but that might also be able to be done.

  10. #10
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    or an entire rocket covered in peanut butter...now Mark that would be a challenge....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pokerace721 View Post
    Don't feel alone, because if there's anyone out in this forum that says they NEVER had a problem with painting then they are lying.

    We have all been through it at some point in our building of rockets.

    First of all it sounds like you have the prep work down pat, so no worries there.

    The problem your having with the paint sounds like the issues I had with Rustoleum Gloss White. You spray and the paint comes out in clumps and it looks horrible. Not your fault my friend. That particular paint is that way, but I have never had any problems with their other colors, strange as it may sound. Also be careful when you get to the bottom of the spray can...that will cause the spray to come out in clumps or droplets...always make sure you shake the can well...I also sometimes leave the can in the sun for awhile just to warm the paint.

    What I like to use is Duplicolor primers and paints. Testor's makes good paint and has a wide selection, but they are expensive!! When I first started back in rocketry a couple years ago, I bought Testor's exclusively, but that's when Hobbylinc was selling the cans for $2.69 and I didn't think much of it, but now they are well over $4 a can. So for the money I like Duplicolor. What I like about Duplicolor is the paint comes out in a finer mist and it allows you better coverage. It's a better quality paint and so are their high build primers.

    As far as technique to get a good paint job....you want to spray close enough to where it won't run and and give the finish that "wet look" if you spray too far away then you get a pebble like finish...this takes practice, but I would suggest get a few body tubes and practice painting those until you get the hang of it. Go through the whole process of filling the spirals and sanding and primer. So if you screw up it's not on one of your rockets. I do the same thing if I am trying anything new, whether it's a new paint or balsa filler or just any new technique...saves a lot of frustration. Also if you spray outside, try and do it on a calm day and if the wind is blowing slightly always make sure it's at your back.

    Also on your final coat of primer after it dries thoroughly, you may want to consider wet sanding it with 600 grit. Just enough to dull the finish and eliminate all the shiny spots. This makes the top coat go on real smooth and you get great results...always spray light coats first and not heavy...first coat is the tack coat and from there I usually go 2-4 more coats and a little heavy with each coat...depending on the size of the rocket you can use a wood dowel to insert in the rear of the rocket and this will allow you to turn it as you spray...keep the coats even and never stay too long in one area...always rotate the rocket...

    If you are adding different accent colors, like to the fin can area, make sure the topcoat is completely dry before masking the area you want painted. I use the cellphone low adhesive tape..I think it's called photo tape. You sharp crisp lines and the paint line is hardly noticeable because the tape is so thin.

    Just take your time and don't rush it....patience is everything in this hobby...whether you are assembling the rocket or painting. Take your time and enjoy the process...it's a hobby, not a race.

    One other technique that I use is that on the last coat of primer I always spray it gray. I use the red primer to do all my body work and repair and sanding and then the very last coat when I know I am happy with the results I spray gray, because when I wet sand and the red starts to come through I know I should let up be fore going too far...it kinda acts as a warning. You never want to sand through to cardboard or else you will have more issues.

    Excellent advice and very nice work there!!!

    To to OP; painting is a SKILL, and like any skill, it has to be DEVELOPED. Just like playing a sport or an instrument, you're probably not going to be an ace at it the first time at bat... To get good, you'll have to PRACTICE.

    Fortunately, practicing is fairly easy and cheap to do-- get some 99 cent a can stuff from Walmart and PRACTICE-- paint lawn chairs, old junk in the garage, whatever... but PRACTICE. It's also important that you're learning good techniques, so go online and look for tutorials or videos on spray painting-- the main thing to learn is NOT to get too close to the surface you're painting, not to put too much paint on at one time, and to ALWAYS KEEP THE CAN (or spray gun) MOVING!!! Also, you can't hardly go TOO fast spraying paint. I've seen folks who think if they move the can faster than a caterpillar can run, they're going too fast... nothing could be further from the truth-- CROPDUST the paint on there with fairly rapid sweeping motions of the can. Try to keep the nozzle at as even a distance from the surface as you can, and try to keep the can parallel to the surface-- moving closer concentrates the paint into a smaller area (therefore making it go on thicker and heavier) and moving away spreads the paint more thinly over a larger area. Going slower makes the paint go on thicker and can easily end up running, going faster "dusts" the paint on in thinner layers. Put a nice thin layer on the rocket and give it half an hour to 'tack up' and then go put a second coat on-- DON'T try to cover EVERYTHING with the first coat-- if you do it'll be WAY too heavy and will likely run.

    Look at some good techniques (I learned by getting autobody books from the library and reading them and then practicing the techniques painting farm equipment) and PRACTICE and pretty soon you'll be doing a great job...

    Remember, it's not ALL about the paint-- you can give $700/gallon top-of-the-line automotive paint to a monkey and end up with a crappy finish, and you can give a 99 cent a can El Cheapo Brand to someone who's practiced and is good at it and they can lay down a finish that you wouldn't believe could look that good...

    SO PRACTICE!

    Good luck! OL JR
    The X-87B Cruise Basselope- THE ultimate weapon in the arsenal of homeland defense and only $52 million per round!

  12. #12
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    Heh?


    I LOVE painting.

    Let me tell you this, I have never painted a rocket and got it done perfectly on the first try. My steps are as follows:
    1. Sand the entire painting surface with 220 grit sand paper
    2.light coat of primer
    3.sand with 220
    4.heavier coat of primer
    5.sand with 400 grit
    6.heavier coat of primer
    7.sand with 600 grit
    8. Light coat of base color
    9. sand with 600 (if there are any bumps, rub them with 400 until the surface is smooth, then do the whole thing with 600)
    10.medium coat of base color
    11. sand with 600
    12.heavier coat of base color
    13.sand with 600
    14.(not sure how to put this) Put a heavy coat of the base color on...lightly. Be very careful, do it in good lighting, gentle strokes, careful painting, let that dry for multiple days.
    15. Apply stickershock23.com decals
    16.future floor polish over everything, let it dry/harden, and you've got a beautiful rocket.







    The last one is my dad's, but he taught me how to paint, so I figured I'd post it.

    Patience is the key, and if something goes wrong, take a deep breath, sand it out, and put a new coat over it. Getting mad only makes you react to make things worse. Trust me, if you get a glob of paint that comes out of the can, LET IT DRY, then sand, do not try to rub it off (personal experience) it gets pretty ugly. Just keep working at it.


    Braden
    Last edited by UPscaler; 23rd April 2011 at 07:14 AM.
    RIP Justyn Palmer, Erik Gates,Paul Robinson and Frank Kosdon
    You all will be deeply missed
    Ns of 2011: 5395 Ns (35% M)
    Ns of 2012 : 5373.9Ns Ns (34.9% M)
    Rocketry youtube videos
    Starleopard.com

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by stickershock23 View Post
    Watch for a package....
    Be kind! As long as I don't have a Roadway truck pulling in here we could probably work something out!

    The again...

    I'd write a work order for something of that nature!
    Now did the Lord say, "First thou pullest the Holy Pin. Then thou must count to three...."

  14. #14
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    I should point out that there IS an "old school" solution - brush painting. When I want a reasonably decent paint job on a rocket and don't feel like dragging out the rattle cans (or if the weather isn't cooperating), I just pull out the brushes and Tamiya paint. I really like using Tamiya acrylics because they are a bit thinner and "wetter" than most enamels, and it is good at "self-leveling". Of course, I would't want to paint a mid-sized or larger model this way (say a Big Daddy or Maxi Alpha), but for a smaller model (Baby Bertha or smaller) it works pretty well. Mind you, I don't get the drop dead gorgeous finishes that some of the modelers here achieve, but they look pretty good on the pad and they fly. What more could you want?
    Greg Poehlein

    Member of Launch Crue - http://launchcrue.org/

    Hint #1: Do not use magician's flash paper for recovery wadding!

    Hint #2: Clean your shoes after flyin' in that cow pasture - that ain't no dirt clod on the sole!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekage View Post
    Seriously. I hate painting rockets like I hate root canals.

    I fill the spirals and the fins.. I sand it down well, I primer, sand again. Attach fins, put on fillets, sand down again. Then paint.
    I always go too heavy on the first coat and get runs. I tell myself, this time I am going to go very light on the first coat.. but no, I don't. So after sanding down the runs, I paint again. And if I don't get runs I get cracking, or orange peel. Sand it down again and repaint. Repeat this process another 1-3 times and I end up with a fairly good finish, albeit slightly heavier..
    And I don't know whats up, but the last couple cans of spray paint I've bought want to come out and shoot thick wads of crap every once in a while and make these horrible bumps all over the surface.
    I'm close to flying naked rockets, I swear...
    Does anyone have any advice for me? Any write ups about finishing? Some good pictures of the process? Help.. please...
    Cool avatar...

    "Say car RAM-ROD... come on, SAY CAR RAM-ROD!!!"

    LOL Later! OL JR
    The X-87B Cruise Basselope- THE ultimate weapon in the arsenal of homeland defense and only $52 million per round!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent View Post
    I have a challenge for you Mark. I want to see an entire rocket covered in vinyl. The only exception , maybe the nose cone, but that might also be able to be done.

    No problem check out Steve Galindos Rocket Pegasus this is a FULL rocket wrap.. If you can come up with a pattern I can do it for you!



    the nose cone COULD be wrapped if you take some time. the Vehicle wrap vinyl I use is designed to wrap cars so it stretch and curves REALLY easy. but it does take some practice and skill.

    What do you want to wrap?
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    Custom Vinyl decals,
    STICKERSHOCK23.COM


    Stickershock23@gmail.com

    No matter how much you push the envelope.
    it'll still be stationery.

  17. #17
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    At least challenge Mark....



    Tell him you have a scale version of Deep Space 9 that will go up on 4 38mm or something and you want THAT wrapped!



    Now that we have completely hijacked this thread...My apologies.

    There are plenty of threads right here that an help anyone with almost all aspects of finishing. One of the big perks of TRF and all its members as diversified as they all are.

    Now did the Lord say, "First thou pullest the Holy Pin. Then thou must count to three...."

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by stickershock23 View Post
    No problem check out Steve Galindos Rocket Pegasus this is a FULL rocket wrap.. If you can come up with a pattern I can do it for you!



    the nose cone COULD be wrapped if you take some time. the Vehicle wrap vinyl I use is designed to wrap cars so it stretch and curves REALLY easy. but it does take some practice and skill.

    What do you want to wrap?
    I should have known that would be too easy.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jFlds View Post


    At least challenge Mark....



    Tell him you have a scale version of Deep Space 9 that will go up on 4 38mm or something and you want THAT wrapped!



    Now that we have completely hijacked this thread...My apologies.

    There are plenty of threads right here that an help anyone with almost all aspects of finishing. One of the big perks of TRF and all its members as diversified as they all are.

    HEy I can print it.. you have to put it on... LOL
    Custom Vinyl decals,
    STICKERSHOCK23.COM


    Stickershock23@gmail.com

    No matter how much you push the envelope.
    it'll still be stationery.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by UPscaler View Post
    Heh?






    Braden
    I love the Van Halen style rocket.
    woohoo is the best word in the world

  21. #21
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    As pointed out in my Scratch Build thread, I too have 'issues' with painting. Light coats mean orange peel. Heavy coats mean runs. Inbetween coats means both. The best paint jobs I have ever done have two tricks:

    1. Use a Paache Airbrush with Testors tiny little enamel bottles and their thinner
    2. Papered the fins so wood grain (with basla and basswood anyway) were not an issue and needed almost no prep. A lesson I forgot this last build!
    3. Camoflage paint schemes so being imprecise looks perfect!!

    Obviously counting is not my strong suit either!


    I used the tiny little Paache compressor which is a bit of a PITA. I have a 'smallish' nail gun style pancake compressor now with a regulator but have yet to buy the adapter for the air hose.

    I have an old small Stika vinyl cutter. Alas it's a Parallel Port model (can you say doh doh bird?) and I've had issues with the driver / Dr Stika program under anything other than Windows 98. Add to that I now need to use a Parallel to USB driver and things get really dicey (god how I love my Macs).

    Nonetheless I am going to give it another go. I think the cutter's belt might have issues as well... sigh... maybe someday I'll see if there is a 'cheap' used one. There is nothing like the cool stuff you can do with vinyl and a decent layered drawing program with a decent driver (printing a layer at a time).

    Then there is ink jet vinyl... or even avery labels and inkjet with careful overcoating.

    I guess my point is, even though I suck at painting, vinyl stripes (even hand cut), decals, etc... can go a long ways to making it look like you knew what you were doing... also... don't forgot to try and add visual detail to your rocket if you are not going for max altitude (which I never am).

    Hope that helps a tad...

    PS: Desert Camo when you launch in the Desert... not the brightest idea I ever had!!

    Jeff Gortatowsky
    Redondo Beach, CA. NAR 70988 Level 2
    2013 Stats: Flights: 44
    Approximate Total Total Impulse: 5,648Ns (Equivalent to a 10% M motor.)
    Approx. Average Cost per flight: $13.23USD
    Approx. (Not necessarily what I paid) Total RETAIL Cost: $582USD

    Link will take you to: About me, The Flights, and The Fleet

    --------------------
    "(Scientific) Skepticism is not a set of beliefs, it is a set of methods for asking questions about reality." -- Doctor Steven Novella

  22. #22
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    "TheKage" didn't say what size of rocket he builds: low, medium, or high power. I fly the first two. Unless you are building for a contest, why fill the spirals?

    My method is simple:

    Before mounting the fins, lightly sand the BT with 220 - 400 grade paper, enough to get the shine off. Sand the mold line of the nose cone until gone and the whole nc with 220 - 400.

    If nc is balsa, I paint it with "Practra" balsa fill coat with a 3/4" brush. I don't sand until after the second coat and last coat and then with 400.

    I don't sand the fins, but rather cover them with "Avery" label paper and seal the edges with CA thin, except the BT edge. Then I lightly sand the edges with 400. I use sanding sticks from a beauty supply house that cost $1 each - they come in many grades from about 100 to over 600. I then mount the fins with "TiteBond", double gluing.

    I use "Krylon" spray can from HL when they are on sale. I spray a coat of white, sandable primer to cover.

    The next day, or later, I spray the first of the finishing colors. I don't sand between coats. I don't think you really had to do so unless you are going for a contest grade finish. I use "3M" blue masking tape or "Tamiya" 6 mm masking tape.

    Note: I warm all the spray cans in 100 degree or hotter water for several minutes before spraying.

    This works well for me and I have had many good comments on the finish of my rockets.

    Karl
    I am an Ham Radio Op. (KG8GC) and I ride a Suzuki Burgman maxi-Scooter; that makes me a Ham-Burger.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    20th January 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    3,088
    Quote Originally Posted by beemerguy View Post
    Unless you are building for a contest, why fill the spirals? Karl
    Pride? A lot of cr*p had been done for worse reasons.. oui?

    Jeff Gortatowsky
    Redondo Beach, CA. NAR 70988 Level 2
    2013 Stats: Flights: 44
    Approximate Total Total Impulse: 5,648Ns (Equivalent to a 10% M motor.)
    Approx. Average Cost per flight: $13.23USD
    Approx. (Not necessarily what I paid) Total RETAIL Cost: $582USD

    Link will take you to: About me, The Flights, and The Fleet

    --------------------
    "(Scientific) Skepticism is not a set of beliefs, it is a set of methods for asking questions about reality." -- Doctor Steven Novella

  24. #24
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
    Location
    Behind enemy lines in Socialist California
    Posts
    3,871
    Actually, I LIKE laying down the finish coat. It's all that priming and sanding that gets old!

    Well, the masking is somewhat bothersome but I seem to be getting a bit quicker at it, tho.

    Rattlecans will work just fine for your average "go to" birds.

    This is "Steppin' Razor". I used Rustoleum paints through out. Ultra 2x White Primer, Fluorescent Pink, Midnight Black Metallic, High Temperature Black for the exhaust area, and several coats of Stops Rust Crystal Clear Enamel. The camera never seems to do justice to the Fluoro Pink but it's amazingly bright and can be seen at great distances which helps me find this bad boy on the ground.
    Last edited by o1d_dude; 10th May 2011 at 01:05 AM.
    Kit (AKA Cranky Kong)
    Total Total Impulse as BAR: 7,753.69 Ns (Equivalent to a 51% M motor.)

    =| Calirado, Colofornia...what's the diff anymore? |=

  25. #25
    Join Date
    18th January 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, Florida
    Posts
    422

    Scale Rockets - Painting

    I tried to come up with ways to paint my scale rockets, but they just don't sell the color I need and or the ability to add detail that is too small to actually build parts.

    I wrap 95% of my kits, currently using Avery inkjet wraps that require a clear matte overcoating. I am currently working working with a local vendor for waterproof matte vinyl wraps.
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    NAR #12821 - Level 1
    Clubs: ROCK (Orlando), NEFAR (Bunnell)



    Kits: http://www.dfrtech.com
    Display Models: http://www.dfrtech.com/display-models.html

    Kit Sales: http://www.jonrocket.com and http://www.apogeerockets.com/

  26. #26
    Join Date
    20th January 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    3,088
    Right. I saw a popular vendor of decal paper sells water resistance 1 year ink jet vinyl. Typical $1 a sheet of letter size.

    Jeff Gortatowsky
    Redondo Beach, CA. NAR 70988 Level 2
    2013 Stats: Flights: 44
    Approximate Total Total Impulse: 5,648Ns (Equivalent to a 10% M motor.)
    Approx. Average Cost per flight: $13.23USD
    Approx. (Not necessarily what I paid) Total RETAIL Cost: $582USD

    Link will take you to: About me, The Flights, and The Fleet

    --------------------
    "(Scientific) Skepticism is not a set of beliefs, it is a set of methods for asking questions about reality." -- Doctor Steven Novella

  27. #27
    Join Date
    25th November 2009
    Location
    Spring, TX
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by woohoo View Post
    I love the Van Halen style rocket.
    Thank you, that one was an awful lot of fun to paint. It came in ballistic, it was fiberglass, so it was repaired, but I had to cut a couple inches off of it, and that made the lines not line up.

    I think a bigger rocket would be fun to paint this way. Maybe my dad's L3? Suppose to be a stretched competitor 5. hmmmmmm



    Braden
    RIP Justyn Palmer, Erik Gates,Paul Robinson and Frank Kosdon
    You all will be deeply missed
    Ns of 2011: 5395 Ns (35% M)
    Ns of 2012 : 5373.9Ns Ns (34.9% M)
    Rocketry youtube videos
    Starleopard.com

  28. #28
    Join Date
    26th October 2009
    Location
    Sheboygan WI
    Posts
    461
    Lots of great advice. Practice is the main thing. Painting under the right conditions is also very important for a good job. Learning how to paint properly is like learning how to ride a bike or swim. Once you "get it" you'll never forget it.

    I would suggest for practicing, do it on a flat surface to start out. A piece of cardboard is good for that. Once you work out the correct application rates, distances etc. on a flat peice, working on a round tube will come naturally.

    Not all spray "bombs" are created equal, so some adjustment between them will be required, but once you have the basics down, that will be easy to do.
    Once learned, you'll love to get some color on them rockets, and if you see a brand with the color you like use it, doesn't make much differance, your the one in control!!
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    _______________________
    Jeff - NAR #76531 -L2

  29. #29
    Join Date
    4th March 2009
    Location
    Anaheim, CA
    Posts
    218
    Quote Originally Posted by rcktnut View Post
    Lots of great advice. Practice is the main thing. Painting under the right conditions is also very important for a good job. Learning how to paint properly is like learning how to ride a bike or swim. Once you "get it" you'll never forget it.

    I would suggest for practicing, do it on a flat surface to start out. A piece of cardboard is good for that. Once you work out the correct application rates, distances etc. on a flat peice, working on a round tube will come naturally.

    Not all spray "bombs" are created equal, so some adjustment between them will be required, but once you have the basics down, that will be easy to do.
    Once learned, you'll love to get some color on them rockets, and if you see a brand with the color you like use it, doesn't make much differance, your the one in control!!
    I noticed a lot of rockets in your picture are of a decent size...looks like mostly MPR? I guess not to hi jack this thread and we are talking about painting...aside from practicing on scrap card board... what would be a good suggestion for painting larger rockets...I agree the conditions must be right, but handling a larger rocket can be a challenge....I always thought that maybe fabricating a spray booth out of a card board box would work for some of the larger rockets to allow the paint to lay smooth without all the outside elements interfering...or maybe a plastic make shift shelter of sorts...nothing better than laying down a smooth, even gloss finish...

  30. #30
    Join Date
    20th January 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    3,088
    Cheap clothing rack on wheels. One that is collapsible so as to not take up too much space when not in use.

    Roll it outside, put the body tube on the upper rod of the rack through the motor mount. Paint, roll it back inside. I imagine this does not scale for rockets larger the 5.5 inches (14cm) because of weight and length. Some longer rockets can be painted in sections. I've even hung the rocket from wires attached to the open garage door. Makes rotating it a bit of a challenge!

    Obviously the nose cone had to done separately.

    Jeff Gortatowsky
    Redondo Beach, CA. NAR 70988 Level 2
    2013 Stats: Flights: 44
    Approximate Total Total Impulse: 5,648Ns (Equivalent to a 10% M motor.)
    Approx. Average Cost per flight: $13.23USD
    Approx. (Not necessarily what I paid) Total RETAIL Cost: $582USD

    Link will take you to: About me, The Flights, and The Fleet

    --------------------
    "(Scientific) Skepticism is not a set of beliefs, it is a set of methods for asking questions about reality." -- Doctor Steven Novella

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