My next project

Kehoes23 said:

I may have missed it, but in your video on fiberglassing body tubes, you weigh the fiberglass cloth to get the amount of epoxy that you need for the layup, how did you get the amount of epoxy you need from the weight of the FG cloth? I'm very new at fiberglassing and am trying to learn as much as possible before I do my first layup.
I have been watching the videos you put up and have answer many of my question, they are very helpful for some one like me who is just starting out with fiberglassing and thank you for posting them and for the advice.:handshake:

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Usually I multiply the weight of the cloth by ~1.3 to get the proper amount of epoxy.

Since most laminating epoxies are 3:1 or so, I just use equal mass of resin and cloth, and use the proper amount of hardener.

When is the next planned flight on this rocket? I honestly believe that it would stand up to an N10000. <- hint hint...

Excellent videos! Probably a silly question, but do you have to use a new paintbrush every time you work on your project, or is there a way to clean the epoxy off of the bristles each time?

Not a silly question. You could clean the brush with Acetone or denatured alcohol. The "chip" brush that I use costs about 50 cents. I think it would cost more to clean it, then what the brush costs.

Tony

jmight said:

Excellent videos! Probably a silly question, but do you have to use a new paintbrush every time you work on your project, or is there a way to clean the epoxy off of the bristles each time?

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I guess you could wash them off with denatured alcohol, but chip brushes cost next to nothing so I just toss em in the trash when I'm finished. You can get a 25 pack of 1in brushes at harbor freight for a few bucks.

Edit: Tony is quick on the draw!

Alex

Awesome, thanks! I'm kinda cheap... College + expensive hobby does that to you! I will be attempting my first fiberglass job on a semi scale AMRAAM that I scratch built starting tomorrow, just got all the peel ply and glass cut!

Jacob, I'm thrifty. I like saving money for things I can't get/make/find on the cheap.

Tony

The rocket I'm fiberglassing has an upper air-frame section that I am doing the first round of fiberglass to to try out. Question: I'm using West Systems 105 Resin with #206 Hardener (slow). I have the pumps to measure the proper amounts. The hardener pump does not seem to be dispensing the proper amount right now, so I'm sure the mix isn't perfect like it should be. How much of an effect will this have on the final cure? I know it's not ideal, but will it still work out okay given the fact that this is not a high performance monster of a rocket?

Thanks again for the tutorial videos, too! They've been very helpful!

Do you have a scale to weigh out the two parts of epoxy. You can then figure out if the pumps are working properly. If you don't have a scale you can do a small batch of epoxy to see how well that sets up.

Tony

I don't have a scale. However, a test batch is such a glaringly obvious solution its a real shame I didn't think of that before I painted the body tube with epoxy. Now my rocket is the test batch.

That was our third option..

Tony

Time heals all!

If your rocket is still sticky and the epoxy doesn't seem cured, give it time. If it is still sticky after a couple days at 70 deg. wipe it down with alcohol. If it's going to set up, it should be done within a week at room temps.

tfish said:

I don't surf. Next time I see him I'll find out the specs on the board and will PM you.

I was able to bevel the fins today. I borrowed my buddies jig to do them.

[YOUTUBE]WSI9--ClSYc[/YOUTUBE]

Tony

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Great video! Just to get this straight, you used a composite blade? Have you tried any other type of blade?

Thanks Tony for the video on the fin beveling, It appears to be a really practical way to do it and I will be making my own jig just like it to do a dozen fins for my next project. Where did you buy your double sided tape? I haven't found any that wide locally and definitely not as strong

I've not tried a carbide blade to bevel with. I know G10 really wears out carbide quickly. Awhile back my buddy gave me a 7 1/4 Diablo "metal cutting" blade. I could not find metal cutting on it anywhere. It looked like other Diablo blades I've used. This baled does pretty good cutting metal. I should see how it works on G10 if I can chuck it up in my table saw.

Home Depot. I think it's for carpet, it's very thin and very sticky.

I just did 60+ plywood fly. They were 3/16 10 ply so I made a router table, fence and 10 degree "thing" and slid them through.

Tony

tfish said:

I've not tried a carbide blade to bevel with. I know G10 really wears out carbide quickly. Awhile back my buddy gave me a 7 1/4 Diablo "metal cutting" blade. I could not find metal cutting on it anywhere. It looked like other Diablo blades I've used. This baled does pretty good cutting metal. I should see how it works on G10 if I can chuck it up in my table saw.

Home Depot. I think it's for carpet, it's very thin and very sticky.

I just did 60+ plywood fly. They were 3/16 10 ply so I made a router table, fence and 10 degree "thing" and slid them through.

Tony

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What's the point of the 10 degree angle if you can angle the saw blade?

The jig shown in the video has a 10 degree angel built into to for use on a 12" sanding wheel. The 10 degree "thing" was made to use on a router table.

Tony

I noticed this thread is no longer a sticky. Any particular reason?


Alexander Solis

TRA - Level 1
Mariah 54 - CTI RedLightning- I-100 - 6,345 Feet

It is a great thread. Maybe there is another way to make it a sticky.

The double sided tape is indeed called carpet tape it comes in various sticky levels many woodworkers and woodturners use for lots of things, my favorite use is holding small parts to jigs when running them through the tablesaw or belt/disc sanders. Some carpet tapes will leave a residue which can be cleaned off usually. A little tape holds quite a bit so some experimenting is necessary to get the proper hold and yet be able to remove small parts w/o breaking them.

I'm just adding the video links to this thread.

The point of building this rocket was to prove that you could do 'extreme' flights with a "roll your own" fiberglass and basic epoxy rocket. I'm not saying this would hold up to the N10,000..but still extreme. So, I've named this rocket "tuff enough". The decals are cut from carbon fiber looking decal material.

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more later...

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Great videos.

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