L2 Cert--Viking 1 scratch

[Viking3]

Greetings to all TRF'ers!! Here is a project that I started last month, and have since been procrastinating with starting a build thread. The next few posts will show what I have done thus far.

That aside, the rocket is a (sub)scale roc of the Viking 1 sounding rocket. In brief, the Viking program ran from the late 40s to early 50s, and was purposed with doing sub-orbital testing and high-speed experiments. a total of 14 rockets were built, with each one being different from the other.j

My rocket is based on the Viking 1. This is not my first scratch build, but it is my first attempt at a scale project, hence, the end result will not be near perfect--but it should be close!! The scale data was obtained from www.postwarv2.com. The owner of the site has loads of info on various different sounding and/or space rockets, including Viking, V-2, Hermes, etc. I emailed him a while back, and he was kind enough to send me a few scans of the Viking, and reccommended that I purchase a publication called "rockets of the world," which contains most of the scale data that he uses. I have not bought this item yet, but it is on my shopping list.

The parts were purchased from Canada's own Coast Rocketry and Apogee Components. The airframe is 54mm bluetube, and the motor mount is a short length of PML 38mm phenolic. I will be using a piston ejection system for recovery, with 15 ft of 1/8 tubular kevlar and 15ft of 9/16 tubular nylone. A nomex chute protector will be used to lengthen the life of the entire system, and a 28'' chute will bring her back down!

I will use this rocket for my Junior lv 2 cert flight. On a side note, I am the only high-power certified minor in Manitoba.

Michael

[Viking3]

Alright, first batch:

first pic: all of the "ingredients" laid out on my bed. Again, I apologize for the low quality pics.

[Viking3]

I used 1/4'' 5-ply-plywood for the fins. In the pics, you can see the fins marked on the wood and the fins cut. I used a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade to cut 'em out. I first tried with a coping saw. Guess how that played out!

Fins were sanded to airfoil-shape by hand. Grooooaaan.....

[Viking3]

Next photo shows the phenolic motor mount. I used a hacksaw successfully to cut it down to the appropriate size. BTW, I had drawn out a full-size plan for this roc, but my camera would not resolve any of it. Expect more anti-camera rants!

Anyways, the cut end of the tube was chipped in some places, so I soaked it in CA and sanded it to prevent any further chippin.

The second photo shows the motor mount. The rear centering ring had a hole drilled through it to accept a small piece of threaded rod to be used as motor retention. The upper ring was hollowed out in one area to allow for the kevlar rop to be pulled through. The rings and threaded rod were then epoxied on with 30 min poxy from Great Planes. Once it dried, the kevlar cord was pulled through the hollowed-out spot on the upper ring, was purposely frayed, and was then poxied to the mmt. I frayed the cord to allow for more surface area to be glued.

I don't know if you can tell, but most of my mid and high power scratches use PML style construction--my first mid and high power kit was a PML Io, and I have since mimmicked the construction techniques on all of my other builds.

[Viking3]

I forgot to take pics for the next few steps.
I then marked the tube and cut it down to length with a hacksaw, and got a surprisingly pleasing result. With a bit of sanding, the cut was perfect!!!
I marked the find locations on the tube, and used a dremel with a reinforced cutoff to make the slots. I had to make quick passes along the tube: anytime I kept the wheel in place for more than 2 seconds, the tube began to smoke.

The slots came out rather ugly, and required a fair bit of sanding before the fins would fit.

I then maked the tube AGAIN, this time for the launch buttons. Normally I used PML rail lugs, but COAST rocketry was out of them, so I ordered rail buttons. Once the line was marked, I winRoc'ed my design to locate the cp, and then drilled hole in the tube to accept the rail button screws.

Mmt was poxied in, and, once dry, the fins were tacked on. I coated the rail buttons' screws in epoxy and screwed them into the tube. At the moment, I am quite satisfied with the result-the buttons were inexpensive and easy to install.

After a few days of hem and haw, I filleted the fins, using the 30 min poxy. The stuff is great for fillets; it keeps its form, and stays in the fillet shape.


The attatched pic shows a better view of the motor retention method

[Viking3]

the next step was to cut out a payload section to hold any necessary ballast. I cut it out of the left-over bluetube and sanded it down. I then cut off 2'' from my coupler to be used as a piston, and the remaining coupler was used to make to attatch the payload to the body tube. I epoxied an eye bolt into one of my coupler- centering rings, and, as a precaution, crushed the remaining exposed threads with a hammer. I got he idea from a different thread; if ever the epoxy bond fails, the eyebolt will not loosen, as the nut will not be able to move.

Once the eyebolt assembly was dry, I glued it into the coupler, which, in turn, was sanded down and glued half-way into the payload.

I have never had a fixed nose cone on any of my rockets, so this was something new. I inserted the cone into the top of the payload, and drilled a holl through the nose cone and tube. I then glued two nuts over top of either hole on the inside of the cone. The idea is that I will be able to put weight or electronics into the payload, pop the nose cone on, and screw it into place.

[Viking3]

And......
That brings me to where I am now. At the moment, I am working on the piston assembly; I just finished gluing the whole thing together.

First pic shows the eyebolt used, the modified centering ring, and the piston tubing. Second shows the thing assembled with the kevlar glued in place.

[JPVegh]

Good looking build so far. Keep up the good work.

[Viking3]

Thanks, JPVegh.

Back to the piston construction, I filleted the joint on the bottom and top of the centering ring for a rocket solid piston. Here's an extra pic which is of better quality than the pic in my previous post; it better shows how the kevlar is attatched to the piston.

Michael

[Viking3]

Yeah......

First mistake: forgot to put the nomex blanket onto the kevlar !!! Unfortunately, I only noticed it after I had the piston attatched. Second rocket I've done that!!!

[Viking3]

Mistake aside, I began attatching the upper length of shock cord; the 9/16 nylon. First, I used a lighter to melt the ends together to prevent fraying. I haven't been in the high power sector of the hobby long enough to have expierienced and shock cord fraying or failiure, but I'm not taking any chances!

Next, I tied the nylon around the eyehook in the piston assembly and put just a drop of epoxy on the end of the knot to prevent slipping. Yup, you guessed it--the knot was tied PML style!

Michael

[Viking3]

Today was a rather SLOW day....all I did was tie the upper end of the shock cord to the payload section.

Michael

[Viking3]

Nother SLOW day.

I soaked the rear end of the piston in CA to prevent any tube fraying and the like.

[Viking3]

Here's a shot of the nose cone screwed on:

BTW, the nuts inside of the nose cone popped out today. Turns out I had forgot to sand the inside of the cone, giving the epoxy no adhesion. I figure that the nose cone will stay on just fine without the nuts.

[Viking3]

Here's a shot of her assembled. The pic doesn't show it, but she's REALLY good looking.

I still have a bit left to do, but the next major step is going to be painting. Until it gets a little warmer out, she'll remain naked. As well, I will be ordering decals from Stickershock23. I thought I'd give those vinyl decals a whirl.

Michael

[Viking3]

Forgot the pic.

[Viking3]

Progress has slowed. Back to school, back to homework. Will post this weekend

[Viking3]

Alright, back to work. I got a hold of a better digital, so I will be reposting some pics with a higher resolution.

First batch:

First pic shows the vent hole that I drilled to release any excess air pressure within the airframe.

Second pic shows the piston assembly again.

[Viking3]

Next two pics show the nose cone assembly and the bottom of the payload section.

Michael

[Viking3]

These show the rocket as a whole and the rocket spread out with the 30 feet of shocke cord laid out

[Viking3]

Here is the aft end of the rocket, as well as a snap of the motor retention system.

Michael

[cjp]

Here's a shot of her assembled. The pic doesn't show it, but she's REALLY good looking.

I still have a bit left to do, but the next major step is going to be painting. Until it gets a little warmer out, she'll remain naked. As well, I will be ordering decals from Stickershock23. I thought I'd give those vinyl decals a whirl.

Michael

Great looking build,you are going to be very happy with the decals from Stickerstock23,great person and high quality.Made mine for my Momba.

[Viking3]

Great looking build,you are going to be very happy with the decals from Stickerstock23,great person and high quality.Made mine for my Momba.

Don't worry--I don't expect anything less than the best!

[WillyK]

Michael,

Very nice build thread.

Look forward to seeing it fly as your L2.

... Bill

[Viking3]

So am I, Bill. At the moment, I am contemplating what to do next on the project, as well as finishing up some previous projects.

Michael.

[Viking3]

Well, Canada is FINALLY warming up!!!!!

I figured I would begin prepping the rocket for painting. First, I gave the fins a good sand-down, and they are now quite smooth. Next, I filled the spirals--a tedious but rewarding task. I used hobbylite balsa filler; it weighs "virtually nothing," and is very easy to sand. After two coats of primer, the filler and the spirals are unnoticable.

Michael.

[Viking3]

In contrast to my previous post, Canada did NOT warm up--we simply had a warm spell, then we cooled right back down. In fact, last Friday (April 29) we had snow. SNOW!! At the end of APRIL!!!!! Even more confusing (to me) is that the day before it was 20C outside.

Anyways, today it was 18 outside, so I began the painting process.

First, I washed down my LOC precision nosecone with dish soap and warm water to destroy any grease and to remove and dirt on the nose cone. The 'cone was sanded down previously, as was the airframe, so I set up a painting area outside and set to work. I used Krylon "standard" grey primer, and gave the roc 5 light coats. Tonight or tomorrow, I will sand down the airframe, removing any rough spots and eliminating the overly visible wood grain on my fins. Wish I had sanding sealer!

Pic shows the roc with the paint drying.

To me, my Viking is finally starting to look like the military missile it is!

More to come.

Michael A

[sodmeister]

Looks good chum !!

BTW ,I saw the launcher you made (Bill & Jim sent the pic. to me) that`s an awesome job you did ,I mean really very nice

See you on May 15 th (I hope )

Take care

Paul T

[Viking3]

Thanks Paul!

I certainly am coming to prarie thunder on the 15th. Am going to boot this thing up on an I195 cti red lightning. Haven't simmed it yet, but I have lots of the paperwork printed off.

Look forward to meeting you! Hope the conditions are all good.


Michael Arendt

[Viking3]

Sanded down nose cone and body tube with 320 grit 'paper. I removed the paint dust with a wet cloth; it was a little windy for my liking to paint.

While I was sanding away at the cone, the paint nearly completely chipped/fell off of the tip. I lightly scratched the "lip" of the nose cone with my nail, and easily removed the paint right down to the plastic. I hope that the paint was just not fully cured; seen as I spent a ridiculous amount of time sanding and resanding the cone, uncured paint seems like the only explaination. I know that the tip of the nose cone is most susceptable to paint chipping, what bothers me is how easily it was removed.


Michael Arendt