Epoxy Fillets

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Bone Daddy

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Can you build up epoxy fin fillets with multiple applications?

Does epoxy stick to epoxy?

I put down the initial fillets using Loctite Professional Heavy Duty Epoxy.

Thanks

Bones
 
You can if you apply epoxy between the set time and the full cure time you will get a real chemical bond. If you missed the cure window (which is likely with the fast cure epoxy you are using) you need to sand well to scuff up the base before second application of epoxy to get a mechanical bond.
 
Try adding Micro balloon filler. It's phenolic little micro balls that have almost no weight at all, a butter tub sized container feels empty. Just mix in as little or as much as you want. All the way to a thick putty if you desire. It seems to make a nicer exterior filet, at least for me it does:rolleyes: Your LHS should have it.
 
Try adding Micro balloon filler. It's phenolic little micro balls that have almost no weight at all, a butter tub sized container feels empty. Just mix in as little or as much as you want. All the way to a thick putty if you desire. It seems to make a nicer exterior filet, at least for me it does:rolleyes: Your LHS should have it.

+1 for micro balloons. This also makes the epoxy fillet much easier to sand. :)
 
If you are going to use microballoons (I use them too from time to time), then it is best to mix them into a slow-curing epoxy. While the mixture does become thicker with the addition of microballoons, you still want it to remain loose enough to spread easily and to flow well. The need to roughen up the surface cannot be emphasized enough, though; you need to have the bonding surface well-structured to get the best results. I nearly always use slow-curing epoxy for everything now, the slower the better. Not only does it flow more completely into and around the joint and to level better, it is also easier to clean up any drips or excess because the mixture remains liquid for so long. The long cure process gives the epoxy time to penetrate into any porous material as well. I rarely use the fast curing stuff anymore for anything other than emergency field repairs, filling hollows and attaching nose weight. The biggest downside with using slow-curing epoxy is the need for extended clamp time. Since I am never under time pressure when I am building rockets, though, this doesn't present a problem for me.
 
Thanks everyone.

I'll pick up some microballons next time I'm at the LHS.
 
I USED THE FIXIT CLAY AND THEN SANDED IT USING A AAA BATERY WRAPPED IN SANDPAPER. worked well.
Micro ballon idea sound nice too!
 
I'm glad to see this thread. I've been wondering about this technique. Are there any tutorials out there on this subject?

Thanks for your time!:cheers:

Steve
 
I ended up just roughing up the existing epoxy a bit and applying a second layer on top. Work like a charm. The finished fillets look great from 10 or so feet which is the minimum recommended viewing distance for all my rockets anyway. They even look better at 25'.
 
I'm glad to see this thread. I've been wondering about this technique. Are there any tutorials out there on this subject?

Thanks for your time!:cheers:

Steve

yes, goto wildman.com, and download the pdf instructions for any of the darkstar or wildman kits...

Microball.ons or coloidal sillica, both can cause silicosis, so wear a mask at least.
 
If you are going to use microballoons (I use them too from time to time), then it is best to mix them into a slow-curing epoxy. While the mixture does become thicker with the addition of microballoons, you still want it to remain loose enough to spread easily and to flow well. The need to roughen up the surface cannot be emphasized enough, though; you need to have the bonding surface well-structured to get the best results. I nearly always use slow-curing epoxy for everything now, the slower the better. Not only does it flow more completely into and around the joint and to level better, it is also easier to clean up any drips or excess because the mixture remains liquid for so long. The long cure process gives the epoxy time to penetrate into any porous material as well. I rarely use the fast curing stuff anymore for anything other than emergency field repairs, filling hollows and attaching nose weight. The biggest downside with using slow-curing epoxy is the need for extended clamp time. Since I am never under time pressure when I am building rockets, though, this doesn't present a problem for me.

not to mention microbaloons will drasticaly decrease curing time!!
 
microballoons are designed to create an easily sanded filler ..it is not in any way a strengthener ...the reccomended ratio is 3 parts microballoons to one part filler

it's not supposed to flow or drip,,, it's a filler,,,, like a thick putty that can be sanded or carved.
 
microballoons are designed to create an easily sanded filler ..it is not in any way a strengthener ...the reccomended ratio is 3 parts microballoons to one part filler

it's not supposed to flow or drip,,, it's a filler,,,, like a thick putty that can be sanded or carved.

It sands quite nice too, I might add, if you dont like something in it.. you can usually sand out imperfections (or use a razor) before its fully cured **easier** than after full cure.
IF you run across colloidal silica tho...this can make sanding very difficult, (and the last time i did it. left air bubble holes that i had to fill)
 
This thread was helpful. I added the fillets before the cure time was up, but while trying to wipe some excess epoxy from a fin, I think I accidentally broke the bond. The fin wiggles side to side while the others hold firm. Any suggestions for fixing this? Do I just let it cure and see if it holds then, or do I need to rip it off and start over? It's a very lightweight rocket (BT50 less than a foot long with mini engine) and the rocket stands fine on all 4 fins right now.
 
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