GILDING

[Scotty Dog]

GILDING-I think thats what its called? when ya cover things with gold,silver,copper sheet material (leaf) .Im thinking of getting a beginner kit. I'ld like toTRY and do my new cluster rocket that I just ordered , Dueces Wild with it. I think it would look awesome covered with Gold and Copper. Donnt think it would add to much weight compared to layers of paint.Anywhoo- anybody do the Gilding thing? Scotty Dog

[Bazookadale]

That is gilding - not to be confused with gelding

[Micromeister]

GILDING-I think thats what its called? when ya cover things with gold,silver,copper sheet material (leaf) .Im thinking of getting a beginner kit. I'ld like toTRY and do my new cluster rocket that I just ordered , Dueces Wild with it. I think it would look awesome covered with Gold and Copper. Donnt think it would add to much weight compared to layers of paint.Anywhoo- anybody do the Gilding thing? Scotty Dog

Scottydog:
I'm an OLD sign Painter and gold leaf gilder. I've recently seen some "kits" for gilding in micheals...can't begin to tell you if they have anything useful but I'd kinda doubt it.
In the past i've used the technique to simulate the gold foil wrapping on the lower stage of a few LEM's and one or two other models but it's Kind of expensive to use Real XXX 23karat gold leaf on a model rocket. the leafs are about 3" x 3" come 25 leaves to a book, 20 books per pack.
There are at least 3 types of tripleX gold leaf available Surface gild, Glass Gold and Patent gold.

All three have specific trates and uses. For application to the exterior of a model rocket applied by an person how has never worked with leaf before PATENT GOLD is the only leaf you should purchase as it is pre-fixed to the backing leafs making it much easier to handle then loose gild leaf. OH! almost forgot Currently Gold leaf is running about 43-44 dollars PER BOOK.

To apply any of these leaves you'll need a size..sort of a semi-slow to very slow drying varnish. Again for those who haven't worked with leaf I'd strongly suggest the use of SLOW SIZE with you application. it'll take about 6-8 hours to set up to the proper "tack" but will give you a couple hours of working time that medium and fast size would not. You must also remember you'll be overlapping your leaf about at least 1/2" all around. You will be wasting a good third of a sheet for every 5-6 applied.
This helps when trying to decide how much gold, silver or aluminum leaf your going to need.

Size is applied with a brush then allowed to tack before the gold is added. Once the gold is on, it must be burnished down well with a good old cotton balls but the size must be nearly dry at this point...too wet it grabs all the fibres from the cotton, to dry you'll rub right through the gild.

Generally gold leaf doesn't need anything over it. NOT SO On a mod-Roc. you'll want to use a CLEAR overlaying exterior varnish that is GOING TO YELLOW no matter what you do.

If you need more specific instructions or more details just let me know I'll try to help, I'd Strongly suggest looking at one of the many REAL gold leaf vinyls that are currently on the market, They to are very expensive, but are FAR EASIER for the novice to apply. Sorry I don't have more examples to show..they would be mostly Glass gold and surface gilded commerical signs, some really boring stuff... a whole different album LOL!!!

[Scotty Dog]

Scottydog:
I'm an OLD sign Painter and gold leaf gilder. I've recently seen some "kits" for gilding in micheals...can't begin to tell you if they have anything useful but I'd kinda doubt it.
In the past i've used the technique to simulate the gold foil wrapping on the lower stage of a few LEM's and one or two other models but it's Kind of expensive to use Real XXX 23carrot gold leaf on a model rocket. the leafs are about 3" x 3" come 25 leaves to a book, 20 books per pack.
There are at least 3 types of tripleX gold leaf available Surface gild, Glass Gold and Patent gold.

All three have specific trates and uses. For application to the exterior of a model rocket applied by an person how has never worked with leaf before PATENT GOLD is the only leaf you should purchase as it is pre-fixed to the backing leafs making it much easier to handle then loose gild leaf. OH! almost forgot Currently Gold leaf is running about 43-44 dollars PER BOOK.

To apply any of these leaves you'll need a size..sort of a semi-slow to very slow drying varnish. Again for those who haven't worked with leaf I'd strongly suggest the use of SLOW SIZE with you application. it'll take about 6-8 hours to set up to the proper "tack" but will give you a couple hours of working time that medium and fast size would not. You must also remember you'll be overlapping your leaf about at least 1/2" all around. You will be wasting a good third of a sheet for every 5-6 applied.
This helps when trying to decide how much gold, silver or aluminum leaf your going to need.

Size is applied with a brush then allowed to tack before the gold is added. Once the gold is on, it must be burnished down well with a good old cotton balls but the size must be nearly dry at this point...too wet it grabs all the fibres from the cotton, to dry you'll rub right through the gild.

Generally gold leaf doesn't need anything over it. NOT SO On a mod-Roc. you'll want to use a CLEAR overlaying exterior varnish that is GOING TO YELLOW no matter what you do.

If you need more specific instructions or more details just let me know I'll try to help, I'd Strongly suggest looking at one of the many REAL gold leaf vinyls that are currently on the market, They to are very expensive, but are FAR EASIER for the novice to apply. Sorry I don't have more examples to show..they would be mostly Glass gold and surface gilded commerical signs, some really boring stuff... a whole different album LOL!!!

Guess Ill do some more research on this. I do want to get a kit either way, I ve always wanted to try the gilding thing. I see some kits on this site. http://www.gildedplanet.com/goldleaf.asp I feel I could do great things if I got into this art. Scotty Dog -oh ya-the examples you gave ,look awesome dude!

[Micromeister]

Those Imi gold Kits look like the same thing I've seen at Micheal's. not sure what the stuff really is but if it's not real gold leaf i'm sure it's not going to last like 23 karat leaf. OBTW if buying leaf don't bother with any under 22 karat as it's just to stiff and brittle to work with.

If your looking for a really unique look Variegated Itallian gold is BEAUTIFUL!!! It's a conglomerate of 4 or 5 different shades and colors of gold..just georgous stuff!

most of the tools and incidentals listed on Gildingplanet seem a bit higher in price. You'd likely do a little better at a local Sign Supply house like N.Glantz & Son or Dick Blick in person. Particularly for Gilders tips, size brushes, Lamp black, and Slow Size.

Earlier I mentioned you might want to look at some of the Metalized Vinyls.
*the very Best is SignGold Corp.: They have a line of material that is REAL GOLD leaf imbedded in clear 7year vinyl that most Fire Department, Police and National Guard units are now specifing for use on their vehicles because it holds up so darn well. #SG22xfgold is a very nice Florentine gold pattern. #engtrngold is a small engine turned gold chosen by quite a few Fire departments. #Brnish-gold is a Burnished mirror gold that can be applied inside glass with no "glue" look at all. All are available in smaller rolls 12" x 2yd to 24" x 5yd starting around 80 bucks.
*Calon series 2850, 3950,5800, 5850 & 6850 all -04 Gold leaf are 5-7 year vinyls in a gold leaf pattern.
Last on the list is Avery SF-100 series:
-264-s is a good looking Gold leaf pattern.
-265-s is Florentine pattern.
-271-s is Hammered gold. and
-285-s is small engine turning, while -259-s is Large engine turning. Avery's offerings are only 5 year exterior durability. they also have many of the same patterns in Silverleaf but all silver leaf patterns by ALL suppliers are 1-2year outdoor durability.

I mention this again as they are a great deal less expensive to use, far less waste, even tho you do waste a good bit. and last almost as long as surface gilding. They all cut with a standard hobby knife or flatbed vinyl cutter and apply just like any other adhesive backed vinyl with a wetting agent and squeegee. I've used Signgold vinyl on cones and easy compound curves with good success on cones as small as some mod-roc transitions (about 3/4" small end to 1.5" on the other so I'm sure with very little practice one could all but completely cover a model rocket with a conical nose and transitions.
Hope this helps a bit. Oh and thinks for the compliment on the LEM's and Models They were done on a whim with left over gold....Paid for by another job so I didn't really spend anything for the application.

[Scotty Dog]

You put some time into that post and I do appreciate your info. One can save alot of time and $$$ doing a little research before diving into unknown waters.When I get some time Ill check into the info(from you) and LEARN some more about gilding. I think this is one case (hobby) you get what you pay for=quality material. Scotty Dog

[DM1975]

I gilded a Tres once. The size I used was not the best and I think that contributed to some of the problems I had, not to mention I am a rookie at gilding. I had really bad issues with the tint being different sheet to sheet. I definitely want to try it again some day, but it was a lot of work and I need a lot more practice. I ended up sanding it all back down and painting it all black in the end.

[Scotty Dog]

I gilded a Tres once. The size I used was not the best and I think that contributed to some of the problems I had, not to mention I am a rookie at gilding. I had really bad issues with the tint being different sheet to sheet. I definitely want to try it again some day, but it was a lot of work and I need a lot more practice. I ended up sanding it all back down and painting it all black in the end.

At least you gave it a shot.I have an AirBrush book (big one) I bought back when I got an Aztec Air Brush. Has a part in it were they gilded lettering and it looked awesome. Thats where I got the idea (way back) to try it on rockets. I think one could do the lettering and not the whole rocket and make out pretty good.
Scotty Dog ...If black was not the darkest color, ya could paint things black to brighten them up

[Micromeister]

your Tres looked pretty good in the photos.

Many say white gold, silver leaf and alumimum leaf are easier to work with the gold...I do NOT agree. Golds blend and burnish better IMHO. There are a handful of gilders i've known over the years that can make just about any gilde job look like it is covered with one continuious pieces of gold.... I am not one. On most gold jobs you will see or be able to pick out the some of the leaf edges or overlaps if you are standing right next to the piece. Silver and white gold show up edges even worse as they create shadows the are all to real to be burnished away.

These issues are why Florentine, Hammered, freehand swirl, and Engine turning patterns were invented If you have a large flat area one of these patterns is a much better choice then trying to make the entire surface look like the same piece of metal

Acually DM1975 for a first time application your Tres. was pretty darn good. Sorry you sanded it down. Remember the best Signmans slogan I've ever heard. Our finished masterpieces show the TSIOTMC "The Slight imperfections of the Master Craftsman". aluminum is an alloy, white gold is an alloy. Alloy's have variences.... variences mean different color and even texture. Hope that helps...but You should be proud of the gild job you did DM! I think you should try it again.

ps: Another trick for use with Old or cheap Size. When the size is just about to the tacky state to start gilding.. use a pointed dowel or stout stick to create tight little swirls in random patterns across the wide flat areas. Don't run out of leaf laying time in the process but do enough to make an interesting uneven pattern in the size before laying the leaf. This practice will help hide the leaf edges. I generally leave about 1/4" or so around the outter perimeter that will be burnished to a high mirror while the inner areas well end up as a soft satin to matte finish. Another is to vary the shape of the overlaping leaves. Some square, some jagged, some corners...etc. It's fun to see how different we can make the "fillings". Gilding is after all an artform so don't be too concerned about perfection.

[DM1975]

Thanks, I will try it again some day. I need to get a better size. Maybe one that I can spray on as the brush strokes from the size really made it look bad. If it were not for that then maybe I would have left it and finished it all up, but they looked bad up close. Maybe that is what I should work on this winter. On another Tres of course...

[Micromeister]

Thanks, I will try it again some day. I need to get a better size. Maybe one that I can spray on as the brush strokes from the size really made it look bad. If it were not for that then maybe I would have left it and finished it all up, but they looked bad up close. Maybe that is what I should work on this winter. On another Tres of course...

Ask for Kemp Slow Size at your favorite Sign supply house. Tacks in 10hours, retains it's tack for several more. Can be sprayed tho it usually slows the Ready time by hours and shortens the tack time. To remove most of the brush strokes, feather the brush as you near the edges of the panel or part. that is lift the bursh so that only the very tips of the hairs are touching. takes a little getting used to but before long you won't leave many brush marks at all
I've used it thur an old oil painting Airbursh with a #2 needle wide open. Clean the airbrush completely after use with turps, as it'll gum it up big time


Hand Lettering isn't all that difficult with PRACTICE. If you'll go to the Library section of narhams.org in Tech-tip-005 Hand Painting and detailing. I give a little intro to hand lettering, brush selection and Practice excercises to get started with Hand lettering. To Leaf lettering you simply substitude Slow size for lettering enamel. The difference is we must watch for runs as the size sets.

OBTW! Scotty-dog...Did you know to make Chrome, Gold and Silver finishes Pop.. It is BEST they be applied over Gloss Black base coats. So you can Brightening things starting from black
Hope this helps.

[Scotty Dog]

OBTW! Scotty-dog...Did you know to make Chrome, Gold and Silver finishes Pop.. It is BEST they be applied over Gloss Black base coats. So you can Brightening things starting from black
Hope this helps.(Quote) Yes it does help.Helps to know someone else thinks somewhat the same as I. What box???? Scotty Dog