Chip Brush Alternatives for Fiberglassing?

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GregGleason

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Using cheap chip brushes often leaves "dead" bristles when I fiberglass.

Has anyone found an alternative that they like instead?

Greg
 
I use the cheap brushes but cut the bristles to about half length and super glue the top, next to the handle, end of bristles to keep them from falling out.

M
 
I pull as many off the brush before I start but can't get them all so I just pick the dead bristles off as I go. Have seen others use small paint rollers.
 
The small paint rollers are well if you have the surface area to warrant them. I used them for spreading epoxy on my plywood boat. I like the idea of super gluing the bristles in the brushes, I'll have to give that a whirl.
 
I use the cheap brushes but cut the bristles to about half length and super glue the top, next to the handle, end of bristles to keep them from falling out.

M

Hmmmmm. That's sounds like a really good (and cheap) idea. Thanks.

Greg
 
I pull as many off the brush before I start but can't get them all so I just pick the dead bristles off as I go. Have seen others use small paint rollers.

Yes, that's sounds like a good idea. It just bugs me when I see a bristle under what would have been a pretty good layup.

Greg
 
I pull as many off the brush before I start but can't get them all so I just pick the dead bristles off as I go.

+1

Some people like the foam wands too, but they are too flexible for my taste. I like MClark's idea of cutting them shorter; I'll have to give that a try.
 
Using cheap chip brushes often leaves "dead" bristles when I fiberglass.

Has anyone found an alternative that they like instead?

Greg

Buying better brushes.

Seriously, buy good brushes, keep them clean, they last for years.

better brushes, no loose bristles,
better brushes, no brush marks,
better brushes, a longer more comfortable handle for better balance.
 
Buying better brushes.

Seriously, buy good brushes, keep them clean, they last for years.

better brushes, no loose bristles,
better brushes, no brush marks,
better brushes, a longer more comfortable handle for better balance.
For fiberglassing? Nope. Don't waste money on good brushes. They are single use. As soon as the epoxy kicks, you can't get them clean.

I do like Mark's technique. I'm going to try it.
 
Sorry - I don't do fiberglas
There aren't appropriate thinners/solvents for that?

(that's the trick for everything else)
 
Brushes with epoxy are for the most part just a means of "transfer". Getting epoxy from point "A" to B.
Smear it around a bit, then go get some more. Some of us "pour" epoxy on to things & use cheap brush to quickly even it out a bit. I have been cutting bristles back about 1/2in. on chip brushes also for years, stiffens them up & gets rid of the built in "Tapered" tip. They come ready for use in "finishing" mode, that is,smoothing out, & tipping off a paint job. They have always been considered "throw' away for any use.

Yes I realize you can clean a brush, store it properly and they will give you a quality finish and last forever. I have Russian badger hair brushes my father used back in the 40's that cost 30-40.00 @ back then. They get cleaned and hung in linseed oil when not being use, so they never dry out & get tiny dry particles in them, that would compromise the finish. I can lay down varnish on doors & trim you would swear was sprayed with these.
I would never use them in epoxy.

All brushes have an intended use & place in the "Brush Hierarchy" chip brushes are on the low end of totem pole....throw away.
 
Foam brushes. As much as 50c each at Michaels, sometimes as low as 5c
 
Sorry I missed this thread.

You want foam rollers (something like a bit under 2" dia x 8" long by memory), the ones with the very thin foam approaching 1/8" thick. Run them through a saw to get short ones cheap. Use the short handle. You don't want to waste your epoxy soaking it into a lot of extra foam. You want to transfer the epoxy like a thin layer of paint, not like a flood coating on a bar top!

When applying epoxy, put the epoxy down first - damp, not soaking wet, then lay dry fabric down on the epoxy. Roll with the roller dry-ish to pull epoxy up from the bottom of the fabric to wet out the fabric. Then add a little more epoxy to the roller, and roll out along fiber directions, from the center of the fabric towards the edges. Then put the next dry layer of fabric down, and repeat etc. Doing it this way prevents trapping air bubbles and improves the fiber to resin ratio. The resulting product is stronger, lighter, and looks more professional.

Use a plastic picnic plate to hold the epoxy, so it is a thin layer. When doing a large job, it can be better to do smaller batches of epoxy on the fly than a single large batch. The plate and smaller batches help prevent the epoxy from cooking off (epoxy is exothermic and the working time cuts roughly in half for every 10 degrees C temperature increase. Some epoxy can get quite hot and set quite fast, even smoking hot).

Gerald
 
FWIW I am definitely not an experienced 'glasser, but I apply epoxy by pouring a thin stream onto the tube, then use gloved hands to rub it around. I can never find my body filler squeegees, but I have a supply of those not-really-a-credit-cards that the CC companies keep sending. The plastic ones are thin and flexible enough to scrape epoxy nicely. (Check the edges for burrs before using) Wipe the card off after each scrape.

Yes, I have to strip off and replace the gloves very frequently. At 7 cents a glove it's not a huge expense.

If the cardboard not-credit cards show up in your mailbox, put them in the postage-paid envelope with a note "Please throw these away for me" and mail 'em. ;)

Best -- Terry
 
The foam rollers are the yellow-green ones. West systems have their brand on some but no need to spend the extra dollars. There are plenty of others out there.
 
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