Build it! A Madcow 5.5" V-2 with a 75mm MMT

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Viperfixr

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I bought this kit a couple Black Fridays ago after a long fascination with V-2s and wanting an Uber-sized one. Military deployments and moves intervened, but it is finally time to build it. My goal is to fly it at the October MDRA Higgs Farm regional launch, preferably on an L850W or a K550W. Yes, this one has a 75mm MMT! I will make no claims to being a rocket building expert, but I have learned a little from some great ones. A creative machinist type I am not. But, I apparently do like to buy kits, as my build pile is still a little on the Gargantua size. I need to buy fewer kits and build more of them (know what that's like, cwbullet??).

This V-2 will be a Head End Deployment setup, so I got a 1" switch band along with an 8" nosecone coupler (that I may have to take down some). An Aeropack motor retainer may not look the part, but sure makes motor retention easy. The recovery gear will be chosen when I am further down the build and know the weights & sizing a little better. The paint scheme isn't final, but after trading a few emails with Mark Hayes at Stickershock23, I am probably going to make it camo'd. Painting is not my best skill, nor my favorite thing to do. The electronics will be a Missile Works RRC3 and RRC2+ in a redundant setup, mounted to a 3D printed MW sled.

In a Madcow V-2 5.5" thread two years ago, I mentioned that I would use this kit to create a Rocksim file since none were available at that time. I since got one from somewhere else (not sure where), but that proved to be inaccurate when I got the scale, ruler and calipers out. The attached Rocksim file is pretty darned close to the real McCoy and corrects all of the problems found. The weights, materials and dimensions should be spot on.

Although I will not be building every day, I do plan to steadily get after this. I am planning to road bike ride RAGBRAI across Iowa later next month and a lot of training to do between now and then, and then a short family vacation. So, allow me some time to do this, but definitely bug me if I lost focus. I read TRF every day.

Here is what the parts look like after a bath tub wash with soap and water.
i-nS87jd5-XL.jpg


Now for the building! :horse:

View attachment Madcow V2 55.rkt
 
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Watching with interest.... :)

I inherited a Mad Cow 5.5" built one that I reworked a bit. How long is the nose cone on your kit? Looks longer than the one I inherited.

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Fitting the motor tube and the motor retainer is usually step 1 for me. This one took a LONG time. I must have sanded the motor tube about an hour to get it to dry fit, and that is with an Aeropack 75P retainer. Something was off size wise, but I got it to fit. Then there is a plywood ring that goes in to the bottom of the boat tail, which tacked in nicely with CA. Then sanded the plywood centering ring to fit the motor tube, slid it in from the front (since that's the only direction it would), put on the motor retainer with JB Weld, added some to the centering ring and put the thing upside down to dry.
i-C5r38Rv-L.jpg


i-GMW3rrC-M.jpg


Then fit the forward centering ring with two U-bolts, but no epoxy for now, only to keep the front parts pointing the right direction while it dries. I 'tilt' the u-bolts to make getting a quick release on/off easier, if needed. Also used 1/4-20 'safety nuts' on the backside of the u-bolts.
i-LwPttDS-L.jpg
 
Seemed to me that there's going to be a lot of pressure on that aft plywood centering ring (that's kind of insubstantial), and there's nothing to back it up like a fin tab. While I don't plan to fly more than L motors in this rocket, I thought a little internal reinforcement would be in order, borrowing from CJ's "injection" technique. After covering the motor retainer since I tend to be messy, I drilled four holes slightly above the centering ring in between each fit, like this:
i-9Z4S5Pg-L.jpg


The holes are just big enough for the syringe tip (got these off eBay for cheap):
i-fRRs9wT-L.jpg


Mixed up about 0.7 oz of Aeropoxy ES6209, injected roughly a quarter into each hole. Then I taped up the holes and tilted everything so that the epoxy would cover the holes from the inside. The result came out pretty well and very not messy:
i-G6cN2jZ-XL.jpg


Next up is fin profiling and fitting into the boat tail slots.
 
No excuses, but I took too much time off this one. Back at it...want this to fly in LDRS on an AT L1150R. Preferably a first flight in June-August before.

Fins got sanded to shape.
i-kmPwxgs-XL.jpg

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Then stuck in!
i-q2gDzmw-XL.jpg

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The red light is a heat lamp, which helps my cold garage cure epoxy despite the winter. By the way, I love the Macklin fin jig on Apogee (https://www.apogeerockets.com/Building_Supplies/Tools/Guillotine_Fin_Jig)--I've got two sizes of them. The no-spin results are amazing.

All four fins are in and filleted.
 
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Ordered a couple Acme conformal rail guides from Giant Leap, as the normal rail buttons would just look too ugly on such a great design.
 
The forward centering ring has two u-bolts in it, for balance and redundancy. I took 1/2" nylon webbing and attached a 4' length to each one. I later intend to attach a OneBadHawk 3-loop kevlar harness to both--kevlar close to the ejection charges, nylon for some 'give' when roughly, fully extended.

I temp installed the forward centering ring for the fin installation, and fitting it to rest on the forward edge of the fin tabs took some work. After the fins went in, the ring came out with the intent to do internal fillets. After taking a good look a the internal epoxy bonds, and in the interest of keeping weight off the aft end, I decided to skip the internal (additional) fillets. I've had fins break mid-span because the roots were so well bonded, and that takes a lot more to fix than a loose fin that needs redoing. Plus, I am using Aeropoxy ES6209, which is strong stuff.

After permanently bonding the forward centering ring, I put in the boattail to airframe coupler, which is only about 3" wide. Thickened ES6209 with FG fibers. Here is what that looks like:

i-sbGVSHW-XL.jpg

i-mc8Mc6c-XL.jpg


Test fit with the nosecone av-bay in place and a Aerotech 75/3840 motor shows a few extra inches in clearance--good! I have an AT L1150R ready for LDRS.

Also, just bought a replacement eyebolt (1.5" of 1/4"-20) in place of the bolt that held the AL nosecone tip on. Bonded the FG ring that holds the bolt in place with CA. Will cover the place where the threaded parts come up to the AL tip with a 1/4" cardboard tube (like the ones AT igniters come in) and put a bit of epoxy in there. Then, trying something new, I just bought Tungsten off eBay to mix with epoxy and put in the space above the ring and right up to the AL tip for nose weight. I was looking for something more dense than BBs, we will see how this goes. Trying to get some nose weight as far forward as possible without taking away from the HED space or the ability to straighten the AL tip when it gets knocked off kilter.
 
The forward centering ring has two u-bolts in it, for balance and redundancy. I took 1/2" nylon webbing and attached a 4' length to each one. I later intend to attach a OneBadHawk 3-loop kevlar harness to both--kevlar close to the ejection charges, nylon for some 'give' when roughly, fully extended.

I temp installed the forward centering ring for the fin installation, and fitting it to rest on the forward edge of the fin tabs took some work. After the fins went in, the ring came out with the intent to do internal fillets. After taking a good look a the internal epoxy bonds, and in the interest of keeping weight off the aft end, I decided to skip the internal (additional) fillets. I've had fins break mid-span because the roots were so well bonded, and that takes a lot more to fix than a loose fin that needs redoing. Plus, I am using Aeropoxy ES6209, which is strong stuff.

After permanently bonding the forward centering ring, I put in the boattail to airframe coupler, which is only about 3" wide. Thickened ES6209 with FG fibers. Here is what that looks like:

i-sbGVSHW-XL.jpg

i-mc8Mc6c-XL.jpg


Test fit with the nosecone av-bay in place and a Aerotech 75/3840 motor shows a few extra inches in clearance--good! I have an AT L1150R ready for LDRS.

Also, just bought a replacement eyebolt (1.5" of 1/4"-20) in place of the bolt that held the AL nosecone tip on. Bonded the FG ring that holds the bolt in place with CA. Will cover the place where the threaded parts come up to the AL tip with a 1/4" cardboard tube (like the ones AT igniters come in) and put a bit of epoxy in there. Then, trying something new, I just bought Tungsten off eBay to mix with epoxy and put in the space above the ring and right up to the AL tip for nose weight. I was looking for something more dense than BBs, we will see how this goes. Trying to get some nose weight as far forward as possible without taking away from the HED space or the ability to straighten the AL tip when it gets knocked off kilter.
 
I did not add any nose weight to mine with all the recovery gear in the nose, but I did use aluminum bulk plates on the coupler so that does add weight over the G10 bulk plates. Mine also has a 54 mm motor mount. Fly's straight. I normally use fast blue motors like J800, J712 and K1100. For recovery I use a 60" Sky Angle for the main and a Rocketman 4 or 5 ft at apogee.

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Looks great. Really nice finish. But a question: why such a big drogue? I would think a 12" - 18" drogue would do nicely.
 
Looks great. Really nice finish. But a question: why such a big drogue? I would think a 12" - 18" drogue would do nicely.
I felt the 60 was bringing down faster than I liked. Most of the time it is the 4' Rocketman. Weights something like 15 lbs loaded.
 
I use a 4' Rocketman drogue for my rocket that weighs 60 lbs. coming down. Just sayin'.
 
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