Securing terminal strip to av-bay bulkhead

How do you folks do this? I've tried epoxy and CA, with both wood and fiberglass bulkheads, sometimes the terminal strip stays on well, other times it pops off. Is there a better method?
Thanks,
Bill

What kind of terminal strip are you using?

If your block comes with a hole in the middle, just drill a hole through the bulkhead and attach with a machine screw and nut.

Bat-mite said:

If your block comes with a hole in the middle, just drill a hole through the bulkhead and attach with a machine screw and nut.

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eggzackly like batman says. Use the ones that Binder Design sells (Doghouse products)
https://binderdesign.com/store/page28.html

OK thanks, I'm just using the wrong product. I'm using this one, it has no hole for a screw: https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productview.aspx?SKU=70054425

billdz said:

OK thanks, I'm just using the wrong product. I'm using this one, it has no hole for a screw: https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productview.aspx?SKU=70054425

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I have used those with super glue holding them to the g10 sled. It works okay, but the pin connector on the bottom is for mounting to a PC board, not soldering to a wire. If you solder it to a wire and if your wire moves at all, eventually the pin breaks off.

I've used those like that several times. I drill holes for the wires/pins to go through, solder the wires, smear with epoxy (enough to fill the holes and hold the wires) and then press it down into the epoxy, hasn't failed yet.
I have since moved to the white strips with holes in them. A #6 machine screw threads in the hold perfectly, no nut needed.

billdz said:

OK thanks, I'm just using the wrong product. I'm using this one, it has no hole for a screw: https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productview.aspx?SKU=70054425

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I actually use these also, but with 4 postions. I drill 4 holes in the G10 lid for the 4 pins with soldered wires. I then put thickened epoxy under, and clamp in place. Once that's cured, I turn it over and fill the holes from the back side. It becomes an integrated assembly with the lid. I've never had one come loose.

For a while I've used the white "Euro style" terminal blocks and mounted them with a #4 machine screw and a nylon insert nut. But I think I'm going to start using some of the PCB mount blocks which a) take up a lot less space on the bulkhead, and b) have only half the number of screw connections. The only downside is the lack of a mounting hole, but I think the epoxy method Bill describes is pretty robust. For me the greatest advantage of the Euro blocks is you could get them at Radio Shack less than a mile from my house, but we all know what happened with that. Now that I'm going to have to order from the Digi-Key / Mouser / Allied troika, might as well step up the game a bit.

The other really robust way is to use brass screws through the bulkhead (hah watch out for aluminum bulkheads) with ring terminals on the altimeter side.

caveduck said:

The other really robust way is to use brass screws through the bulkhead (hah watch out for aluminum bulkheads) with ring terminals on the altimeter side.

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I really liked the old Doghouse charge wells with integrated terminals. I don't think they sell the old ones that were all grey but the new ones look like they would work well also. https://binderdesign.com/store/page29.html

billdz said:

OK thanks, I'm just using the wrong product. I'm using this one, it has no hole for a screw: https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productview.aspx?SKU=70054425

Click to expand...

I've used these on some small diameter projects where size mattered. I ended up soldering the wires on the posts and then secured the posts with CA on the terminal side and the wires with silicone on the opposite side of the bulkhead. As with all adhesives, a clean and rough surface improves adhesion.