Tamiya white putty (and others)

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neil_w

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A while back I picked up a tube of Tamiya white putty at HL, having been a little frustrated about a couple aspects of working with Bondo Spot and Glazing putty. I figured Tamiya makes good stuff in general, should be good.

In my first experience with it, I found it to be rather hard to sand, certainly compared to Bondo. Now, I have a white primed rocket that has a few gaps needing to be filled, and I'm trying to decide whether to give the Tamiya another go, or just use the Bondo already, or something else entirely.

If I use the Bondo I'll certainly need at least another coat of primer to cover the red, whereas that wouldn't be needed with the Tamiya (small consideration, to be sure, but it's one of my beefs with Bondo: the deep red color).

The gaps are in fillet-like locations, kind of hard to describe but generally straight joints about 2" long. I'm awfully tempted to try to lay the Tamiya in and draw it like a fillet, but I have no idea if I can really do that. If it needs a ton of sanding when Im done Ill be at risk of over-sanding the surrounding balsa.

Has anyone used the Tamiya white, and have any good recommendations how to best use it? I want it to work for me, but I really just don't have a proper feel for what it can do.

Are there other putties which are perhaps easier to sand, or should I just stay with the Bondo? I hear about the Squadron putties, but I don't know how all the different ones compare to each other.
 
I've used the Tamiya white quite a bit, as well as the Tamiya basic (gray), and it takes more effort to sand than the Bondo for sure. However, not THAT much more.

It does shrink, so I usually do two coats. In cases like you describe, I make sure I have a form to use to smooth it to flush with the surface (I use a cut piece of old credit card or room keycard of proper cut shape). After the flush Tamiya dries it will leave a concave area that needs a second coat. This one usually can be sanded more or less flush with the area.

I've also been known to use a small fine paint brush dipped in acetone to work the putty into shape if it dries too quickly.
 
If I use the Bondo I'll certainly need at least another coat of primer to cover the red, whereas that wouldn't be needed with the Tamiya (small consideration, to be sure, but it's one of my beefs with Bondo: the deep red color).

OK, so don't spray primer over the entire rocket or even in selected areas. Spray some in a small solvent resistant container (paper or suitable plastic) and let it reduce. As the primer evaporates, it becomes thicker and you'll want it to a thickness that is paint brush friendly (thin cream?) Apply primer with a brush over the "infected" areas and let dry as normal. Some sanding will be required. NOW....consider using a gray primer instead of the white. Gray brings out all of the imperfections way better than white does. The red Bondo is less visible also. Once you are satisfied with your touch-ups, hit it with flat white overcoat. Funny, I rarely have to hit it more than once to cover the gray primer.
 
I find the Tamiya white dries too quickly. However, I do find it more durable(perhaps why it’s harder to sand) over time, and that it sticks to plastic better than the bondo putty. Another downside that has been mentioned, I find it shrinks a bit more than the bondo. Those are my perceptions and not to be taken as fact since I’ve only used each one a handful of times at most.
 
I use Tamiya white on plastic nose cones only. For most other uses, especially filling spirals, I prefer Squadron green. I generally don't break out the Bondo unless I'm dealing with a large surface area, such as glassed fins.
 
NOW....consider using a gray primer instead of the white. Gray brings out all of the imperfections way better than white does. The red Bondo is less visible also
In this particular instance I chose white primer because my topcoat is going to be grey, very close to the color of primer grey. So I want to be able to see what I'm doing when topcoating.

I use Tamiya white on plastic nose cones only. For most other uses, especially filling spirals, I prefer Squadron green. I generally don't break out the Bondo unless I'm dealing with a large surface area, such as glassed fins.
I have heard many mentions of the Squadron green over the years. How is it different from the Tamiya white (or the Bondo, for that matter)?
 
The Red putty is Lacquer based. It is terrible stuff. I'm surprised they still make it.
Tamiya white or gray is best. I use the white on styrene nose cone at the seams.
Sticks and works well to paper BT's and Titebond glue as well.
Unlike the red, it won't swell or shrink in changing weather conditions.
Sanding and re-priming is always a necessity, don't do short cuts if your looking for good paint jobs.
.
 
The Red putty is Lacquer based. It is terrible stuff. I'm surprised they still make it.
Which red stuff?

Tamiya white or gray is best. I use the white on styrene nose cone at the seams.
What's really the difference between the white and grey? I honestly don't remember what drove me to choose the white over the grey at HL.

Sanding and re-priming is always a necessity, don't do short cuts if your looking for good paint jobs..
I'm always looking for short cuts. :)
 
Which red stuff?

I know the stuff 3M makes for the auto motive repair industry. It was good in it's time for lacquer based finish systems.
Since then, Enamels, Catalyzed Enamels, and 2 part base coat/clear coat systems have come to be.
I'm sure 3M sells it in bulk to be packaged by other name brands such as the Bondo Name.
Read the tube or package, it should tell you what the base is.
It dries quickly, sands easy and makes a horrible mess with extra fine sandpaper.

I have both the white and gray Tamiya putties, but I've yet to try the gray.
I've used the white on nose cones mostly, and some body work on a V2.
It's almost as messy as the red stuff, but it doesn't shrink or swell with weather changes.
 
I ended up trying the touch-ups on this rocket with the Tamiya white. What eventually worked for me reasonably well was to slather in a bit of the stuff (not always easy, given its marshmallow-like consistency) and then *immediately* draw it with a nitrile-tipped finger. This left me with very little sanding, generally. Deep Overtone tipped me off to the quick-drying nature of the Tamiya white; if I didn't draw the fillet very quickly it would set up just enough that I'd leave a lot more behind in areas I didn't want.

Sanding was once again challenging, but since I left so little do it was OK. I will definitely have more technique refinement in front of me, but this definitely went better than my last attempt.
 
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