L3 - really?? Tekcub 3L

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Les,,
I really love the build as I do all of your wonderfully complex builds..
Complexity in the build makes your builds so crazy cool lookin..
Complexity in the deployment set up is not necessarily a good thing..
How many grams of FFFF to break all of that tape ??
When building for flight a checklist may help as will minimizing any other distractions...

I can't wait to see the flight Les,,
it's going to be gorgeous man..

Teddy
 
Ted
I used 6.5 grams

As you are well aware, a long cord is used to allow aerodynamic drag to dissipate the energy of the deployment charge. The tape just helps absorb some of that energy.
I've always used this technique on my dual deploy. And if all the tape doesn't break it is not a bad thing...
 
Finished doing fillets on the strakes

IMG_3354.jpg

In the process I also did some cleanup of the pod nose cone fillet.

From this

IMG_3339.jpg

To this

IMG_3356.jpg

And some other clean up at the fin/pod junction

IMG_3353.jpg

To help seal the cardboard pod tubes, I'm thinking of thinning some 15 or 30 minute BSI epoxy and brushing it onto the cardboard - comments?
 
Finished doing fillets on the strakes

View attachment 344501

In the process I also did some cleanup of the pod nose cone fillet.

From this

View attachment 344502

To this

View attachment 344503

And some other clean up at the fin/pod junction

View attachment 344504

To help seal the cardboard pod tubes, I'm thinking of thinning some 15 or 30 minute BSI epoxy and brushing it onto the cardboard - comments?

The 20 minute is the laminating epoxy that is less viscous and will flow out and self level isn't it Les ??

Teddy
 
Actually, it is standard 30 min "structural" epoxy that I was going to thin to use and just brush a thin coat on
 
Honestly, this was my first time using the Aeropoxy. I mixed it to the the 27:100 ratio by weight.
48 hours later and still tacky.

I've put an electric heater underneath that seems to be helping
 
Honestly, this was my first time using the Aeropoxy. I mixed it to the the 27:100 ratio by weight.
48 hours later and still tacky.

I've put an electric heater underneath that seems to be helping

I have had this happen using PR2032 with PH3660 on a carbon fiber layup and it literally took over a full year before it felt dry. This was one of my first times using PR2032 and it was my fault and due to a poor mixing ratio.
 
I use Aeropoxy now, with West Systems pumps. No issues yet. I used to use Mr. Fiberglass epoxy, and that stuff wouldn't cure in a cool room. I had to use my car as an oven... Roll up the windows and leave it in direct sun all day with the parts inside.
 
We had the same issue with Aeropoxy remaining sticky, especially when cool/humid. It may be an amine blush, if that is the case wiping it down with alcohol should help, followed by another coat of laminating resin.

I found that if I used a heat gun to warm the epoxy a few times during the first hour or two of curing eliminated the problem. It also helps the epoxy to turn out smooth and glassy.
 

Fairly certain I mixed the right ratio and long enough.
It is supposed to be 100:27. If I recall, I had 99.5:27.2 Hopefully that was close enough.
And I left the heat on in the room to help it cure, but perhaps it did cool down overnight.

So far the heater is helping - just need to rotate periodically so all sides get the heat.

Meanwhile, decided to get started on the payload/nose cone

A bit of sanding before priming...

IMG_3363.jpg
 
So - question for the crowd.....

I want to mount a camera. A friend 3D printed a shroud.

But where is the best place to put it?

Option 1 - In line with a fin (just above AV bay). NOT in line with the altimeter vent holes
Option 2 - Also in line with fin, but on AV Bay switch band
Option 3 - Centered between fins - but it will be in front of one of the Av bay altimeter vent holes

Comments please

Option 3 IMG_3364.jpg
Option 1 IMG_3365.jpg
Option 2 IMG_3366.jpg

sorry out of order....
 
I would put the camera on the booster section between fins. Thats where I've always put my cameras, and I've never had a problem with it. Mounting anywhere above the vent holds for the altimemeter bay feels risky to me. Mindsimming it makes me think about the boundry layer of air on the shroud, and turbulent flow coming off the end, as well as any compression above it. Basically I think if you mount it above or next to the vent holes it will disturb the airflow and cause you to not get an accurate read on the altitude, or worse have a premature ejection. Thats just my guess. Like I said, I've just always put it about halfway up the booster and between fins and I've not had any problem.
 
I always put my cameras on payload section, midway or there about. Never had any problems. Some are mounted between fins & some are in line with fins. As long as you mount it at least 1 caliber above any vent holes you should have laminar flow. Monunting above AV bay lets you see apogee event too!

IMG_4372 (2).jpg
 
Here are some more pix of the shroud. It is designed for screws through the tube.
Because of how the camera is captured between the 2 parts, at least one part needs to be removable.
And the top openings access the button controls and small display on the camera

I would want to keep it low so the screw heads don't snag the laundry. I would use button head screws to minimize the height

IMG_3377.jpg

IMG_3378.jpg
 
While I ponder the camera mount, I did decide to get a start on the payload/nose cone.

My normal painting area is too small to fit this beast, so using some cheap drop cloths I improvised.

First coat of primer

IMG_3368.jpg IMG_3367.jpg
 
Meanwhile, due to my work schedule and then NSL I won't be able to touch this again until after Memorial Day

On the plus side, the heater worked - the tackiness of the epoxy is gone :w::w::wave::wave:
 
That does look cool!
Question: Will you close up the back end of the pods, or leave them open?

I'm back!

And ready to answer the question.......

After much searching for that rare mix of titanium and unobtainium.....wait - who am I kidding
SO, take a few Popsicle sticks - cat and sand to size, and then a thin layer of epoxy and you end up with this

IMG_3417.jpg
 
And I also wet sanded the top and did a first primer coat on the bottom...

Lots of cleanup for the bottom...........

IMG_3421.jpg

IMG_3422.jpg
 
Wow Les,,
That's lookin so cool it's crazy..
Good for you man..
Lot's of detailed work..
Super cool Les..

Teddy
 
And I also wet sanded the top and did a first primer coat on the bottom...

Lots of cleanup for the bottom...........

attachment.php


In primer, those strakes give your bird a real Warhammer 40,000 look and feel. Totally wicked! :headbang:
 
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