LOC Goblin

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Thanks Len! We talked with them last spring when they wanted to downsize one of our kits. I thought it was a great opportunity to share for the hobby both ways. I'm not sure where they are at with their project, but we think its pretty cool and a LOT of fun!
 
DANG! That's nice. I failed(my budget intervened) several times to add some Mega Max nc's when i ordering from Estes. I always had a Goblin upscale in mind. Now when my budget allows I'll have to look at one these!
 
I am going to guess that the 'decals' were taken from the Estes decal sheet and upsized...in which case a person will have enough bats to do one side of the rocket. IMO the goblin needs at least 4 loose bats to look right from all sides:).
Rex
 
That's correct Rex, there are 2 bats for the one side. We wanted to keep the Decor as close to original as possible.
 
I might have to get one of these as a big brother to my current goblin! So legit!


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The interchangeable motor mount looks slick. How do the adapters lock in place?
 
Thanks Len! We talked with them last spring when they wanted to downsize one of our kits. I thought it was a great opportunity to share for the hobby both ways. I'm not sure where they are at with their project, but we think its pretty cool and a LOT of fun!

Hmmmm....an Estes downscale of a LOC Precision design...Starfighter, perhaps? A BT-55 based Starfighter would be nifty!
 
The interchangeable motor mount looks slick. How do the adapters lock in place?

You'll use the T-nuts in the 54mm rear ring to mount the 38mm ring with screws. Then, the adapter ring also has T-nuts for motor retention on your 38mm or 29mm while they are secured and screwed into the main 54 ring. There are some photos in the instructions which should be up on the webpage.
 
Very similar to the original Doorknob plan I sent Barry. The original had a 98mm motor mount tube with 54mm and 38mm adapters. ( I didn't make a 75 mm adapter ) The only difference is that the adapters I made screwed in to the permanent base plate using a set of bolts and tee-nuts a 90 degree rotation from the motor clip tee-nuts and bolts. That way I could use one set of motor clips for all three configuration without them getting too long. ( I've seen overly long motor retention clips "tilt" when the ejection charge goes off leading too the loss of the motor and failure for chute deployment.) Anyways, nice system, it should work great.
 
I could see this being the next MDRM where large numbers of us have built one or more of these and most of us have customized it in some way.
 
Nice work, LOC. Its good to see this kind of innovative design as well as the business initiative required to clone a classic. Now, how about a 5.5 version?
 
I could see this being the next MDRM where large numbers of us have built one or more of these and most of us have customized it in some way.

I can see that happening too. It’s one of those slightly goofy designs with a lot of room for custom paint and decals. Should be popular!
 
Okay, so I'm going to engage in a bit of Thread Necromancy and ask this question:

Does anyone have an OpenRocket .ORK file for the LOC Goblin?
 
Me and my Loc Goblin at MWP17
 

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For those of you who have built a LOC Goblin and 'glassed the airframe, how much glass would you recommend? 1 yard? 2?

Unless you're gonna stuff a L1000 in it, it's not really necessary. Mine flew on a K using only wood glue...
If you glass it, it'll be bullet proof... But if you do, enjoy!
 
Unless you're gonna stuff a L1000 in it, it's not really necessary. Mine flew on a K using only wood glue...
If you glass it, it'll be bullet proof... But if you do, enjoy!
True, however, I'm looking at longevity. A glassed airframe will last longer than a regular LOC cardboard airframe. Besides, it's practice for getting ready for L2, then L3 certification.

Besides, I'll probably be using mostly 38mm Loki motors in it. Some of those can be..."aggressive." J-1000, maybe?
 
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