Mold Release - Where is everyone getting it these days?

I'm coming up on the end of my can of MLEX, it appears it leaked during my move somehow. What is everyone using these days and where can I buy a can or three?

Thanks!

not Stoner E236!

Tony

I use MILEX 2 also, order it from Chembar

tfish said:

not Stoner E236!

Tony

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I don't know what you're doing with it but I've been using it with easy since the 5 gallon pail of Mann ran out. I honestly don't notice any difference between Mann 200/400 and Stoner E236. Maybe it's because I buy it in liquid form and not in a spray can?

Loki Research said:

I don't know what you're doing with it but I've been using it with easy since the 5 gallon pail of Mann ran out. I honestly don't notice any difference between Mann 200/400 and Stoner E236. Maybe it's because I buy it in liquid form and not in a spray can?

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I bought a case of the spray cans and have tried various things,,polishing, several coats etc. I even followed the directions on the can!I sort of got lucky and I did some rocket work for a buddy and he gave me a case of Mann 400.

I don't use release very often these days. I'm more into buying "logs" of electrical tape at Harbor Freight.

Tony

Mann 400, bought at Blick art supplies.

tfish said:

I don't use release very often these days. I'm more into buying "logs" of electrical tape at Harbor Freight.

Tony

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I know that feeling... I just wish they made it wider.

DeeRoc29 said:

Mann 400, bought at Blick art supplies.

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Looks like they have Mann 200, not 400, and it's not in stock until 3/30. Thanks for the lead, though!

https://www.dickblick.com/products/ease-release-200-spray/

Dan, the last time I bought MLEX I bought a case directly from the manufacturer I believe. I will look at my records and let you know. If you lived closer, I would sell you a can or two.

Binder Design said:

I know that feeling... I just wish they made it wider.

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Google Whack!

I've bought it from here before

Edward

AlphaHybrids said:

Google Whack!

I've bought it from here before

Edward

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Ooo.... 4" wide.. What size have you used? Just wondering if it gets hard to wrap properly in wider strips.

2" wide is what I typically use. 4" is ungainly to wrap on a spiral.

I’m open to ideas on how to wrap these with electrical tape...1” or 4”.

patelldp said:

I’m open to ideas on how to wrap these with electrical tape...1” or 4”.

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This is stupid.

jsdemar said:

This is stupid.

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I apparently have a shorter leash than you and that Feckless dude.

patelldp said:

I’m open to ideas on how to wrap these with electrical tape...1” or 4”.

View attachment 339877

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How about PVA mold release?

Tony

patelldp said:

I’m open to ideas on how to wrap these with electrical tape...1” or 4”.

View attachment 339877

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Dan,

Would you be up for making these as custom orders for sale.

"Chembar" in my first post is where I order my MILEX 2 from

sharkbait said:

Dan,

Would you be up for making these as custom orders for sale.

"Chembar" in my first post is where I order my MILEX 2 from

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Maybe. Let me test them at least once. I am assuming destructive removal, which may be unattractive cost wise because they take a good amount of time to print.

patelldp said:

I’m open to ideas on how to wrap these with electrical tape...1” or 4”.

View attachment 339877

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Make them out of EPS styrofoam and melt out with acetone.

Edward

AlphaHybrids said:

Make them out of EPS styrofoam and melt out with acetone.

Edward

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Capabilities I don’t have. I’m fine with destructive removal, customers may not be.

Before I hot wire cut them, I used a table saw.

Edward

Dan

Use this to make a mold and pour in the styrofoam. separate the mold and sell the foam.
I will take several.

Paul

Just an FYI, two party polyurethane foams don't melt with acetone. EPS foams do.

Edward

AlphaHybrids said:

Make them out of EPS styrofoam and melt out with acetone.

Edward

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That is how I've done it (hotwire foam shapes) but it's been years. Those hard one-piece complex mandrels do not come out. Multi-piece ones can work, but there's a good chance you'll still stress the propellant. Sometimes you can't tell they're damaged until you fire the motor.

Finocyls can be made without a mandrel. Cut the "fin notches" out of the cured propellant. I made templates out of plywood for the ends, clamped on with allthread. String a blade of a bow saw through the core. Snap it into the bow saw handle. Cut and repeat. The limitation is the length of the saw blade. For my 6" P10000, I made five 16" grains with the bottom two as 5-point finocyls.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/P7KTVAcMqqZyxQ5T2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8uuVYyYBj9UhunVz2

Very nice pic John.
What was the the alt?

Paul

PGagnon said:

Very nice pic John.
What was the the alt?

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86Kft.

jsdemar said:

86Kft.

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I've scattered rockets into 86K pieces before...wanna see a video of one going 'high order'?

Tony

I've had the saw method of making finoxyl from cured grains result in not getting all the extra surface area lit fast enough. I'm thinking that was from too narrow a cut. Anyway it was a minor PITA to saw the slots, and of course it destroys the blades!

Gerald

G_T said:

I've had the saw method of making finoxyl from cured grains result in not getting all the extra surface area lit fast enough. I'm thinking that was from too narrow a cut. Anyway it was a minor PITA to saw the slots, and of course it destroys the blades!

Gerald

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That's more of a problem with the grain design and igniter design than the method of cutting the slots. I also finish them off with a sanding block of the correct finished width. This should *help* make the propellant light easier... same as removing mold release and roughing the surfaces.

I've never destroyed the blade. Clean it and oil it to remove the oxidizer and it won't rust.

This methods works for star shapes as well. Just got out the end templates for the cross-section shape.

So I think I got what I needed, you guys can start a thread on your mandrel techniques if you'd like.