Binder Design
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And the advantage of the router jig is you can't OVER sand. With my disc sander I have to reposition my hands while pushing the fin through. If I bump the fin toward the disc I leave a gouge. That can't happen with the disc sander.I see this is the best way to bevel fins, no sanding discs to replace and it is more precise.
Depends on the hobbyist :wink:
View attachment 340435
Seriously though, I am very lucky to have the workshop I have.
Odds are the warp was caused by hand pressure alone, or the wood could be warped too. It is possible to use double sided carpet tape ( not the super sticky one) to attach the fin to a larger piece of wood that will support it better and allow better control across the router base, even better is to use a router in a router table, freehand routing on smaller pieces is difficult due to the difficulty of holding the router steady as parts of the base move on and off the fin.Hey all, I finally got a router and tested it out. Yikes. Results were inconsistent to say the least.
First, I didn't use a jig. I used a 45° and a rounding bit as my test. Used lite ply at max RPM. Seemed to sort of peel off rather that cut. When I was done, the cut was uneven. It started about 1/3 of the way up on one side and 2/3 the way up on the other. Checked level, dead on.
So I tried different techniques. Fed slower, faster, hands close, hands spread apart... different things to see if I could apply even force and keep wood flat. Just wouldn't keep straight.
So, my thought is the wood has a slight warp or my technique is off. Any advice for a novice?
Hey all, I finally got a router and tested it out. Yikes. Results were inconsistent to say the least.
First, I didn't use a jig. I used a 45° and a rounding bit as my test. Used lite ply at max RPM. Seemed to sort of peel off rather that cut. When I was done, the cut was uneven. It started about 1/3 of the way up on one side and 2/3 the way up on the other. Checked level, dead on.
So I tried different techniques. Fed slower, faster, hands close, hands spread apart... different things to see if I could apply even force and keep wood flat. Just wouldn't keep straight.
So, my thought is the wood has a slight warp or my technique is off. Any advice for a novice?
Odds are the warp was caused by hand pressure alone, or the wood could be warped too. It is possible to use double sided carpet tape ( not the super sticky one) to attach the fin to a larger piece of wood that will support it better and allow better control across the router base, even better is to use a router in a router table, freehand routing on smaller pieces is difficult due to the difficulty of holding the router steady as parts of the base move on and off the fin.
Hey all, I finally got a router and tested it out. Yikes. Results were inconsistent to say the least.
First, I didn't use a jig. I used a 45° and a rounding bit as my test. Used lite ply at max RPM. Seemed to sort of peel off rather that cut. When I was done, the cut was uneven. It started about 1/3 of the way up on one side and 2/3 the way up on the other. Checked level, dead on.
So I tried different techniques. Fed slower, faster, hands close, hands spread apart... different things to see if I could apply even force and keep wood flat. Just wouldn't keep straight.
So, my thought is the wood has a slight warp or my technique is off. Any advice for a novice?
Odds are the warp was caused by hand pressure alone, or the wood could be warped too. It is possible to use double sided carpet tape ( not the super sticky one) to attach the fin to a larger piece of wood that will support it better and allow better control across the router base, even better is to use a router in a router table, freehand routing on smaller pieces is difficult due to the difficulty of holding the router steady as parts of the base move on and off the fin.
Its a little hard to follow your description, but it might have been climbing. Which way were you moving the stock (or the router)?
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/05/07/router-accident-is-a-great-lesson-in-climb-cutting
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/climb-cutting
First thing I checked before checking table was flat. Bit was locked in place. One thing I had to do was move my fence to allow the bit to spin. It was separated by about two inches to allow the bit to spin. My table has measurement marks to ensure it is even on both sides.The "peeling" thing is hard to figure. If the bit is sharp, you should be making chips and saw dust, and the cut shouldn't move up and down on the edge of the work piece.
I am bound to ask: did you lock the height of the router? (I am guessing you would notice if the router bit was rising and falling while you cut).
Check out my modified router table I setup for beveling fins in "Show me your jigs and Such". With a continuous fence, no skips and no jumps. You can connect a small shop vac to most router tables to clear a lot of debris. An old miter box trick is to put a chamfer on the bottom edge of the fence. That allows some debris to hide and not push your piece out from the router bit.It is mounted on a table. I doubt I have the skill to try and do this without a table.
I'm feeding in the direction that the manufacturer recommends... right to left.
Check out my modified router table I setup for beveling fins in "Show me your jigs and Such". With a continuous fence, no skips and no jumps. You can connect a small shop vac to most router tables to clear a lot of debris. An old miter box trick is to put a chamfer on the bottom edge of the fence. That allows some debris to hide and not push your piece out from the router bit.
Your setup (https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?p=1576854) is almost exactly what I have. I'll have to look at the continuous fence when I get home. Your bevels look awesome and exactly what I want.Check out my modified router table I setup for beveling fins in "Show me your jigs and Such". With a continuous fence, no skips and no jumps. You can connect a small shop vac to most router tables to clear a lot of debris. An old miter box trick is to put a chamfer on the bottom edge of the fence. That allows some debris to hide and not push your piece out from the router bit.
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