Dynasoar Rocketry Daedalus finishing thread...

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James Duffy

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Just finished basic construction on one of Frank Burke's Daedalus RC rocket glider kits, and thought I'd document the finishing process. I didn't snap photos through the build for a couple of reasons. First, Frank's build videos are very comprehensive, so covering the process again would have been redundant. Second, the basic build was so simple, pain-free, and quick that it was over before I thought about taking any photos. Here's a link to the kit on Frank's website:

https://dynasoarrocketry.com/?page_id=623

The "speed" point cannot be overstated: from opening to box to having a complete airframe ready for paint, finishing, and radio installation took less than an hour. This is a really quick build! Just make sure that you use a couple of fresh, sharp #11 blades for opening up the pre-marked slots on the airframe tube, as well as have some foam-safe CA on hand. Standard CA will melt the foam wing and tail components.

What Frank has not covered in his video series is the finishing process, so a few thoughts on that process might be valuable. Your finishing process could be as simple or as complex as you like. At a minimum, a builder of one of these kits will want to put some sort of large, easily seen marking on the bottom of the glider to help the pilot maintain orientation during flight. That might be something as simple as a wide tape stripe, or perhaps some wide self-adhesive Monokote trim film.

More in a bit,
James
 
The Daedalus kit has a general X-37 vibe to it, so we're going to adhere closely to Frank's original finishing scheme. First task is to paint the upper surfaces of the model with some Testor's rattle-can gloss white. Before doing this I tested the paint onto a small square of scrap foam that Frank thoughtfully includes with the kit. After the test shot showed that the paint would not damage the foam the paint was applied to the model. A couple of thin coats are fine. This isn't a scale job, and we want to keep weight down.

Next, some speculative panel lines were drawn onto the top of the wing and airframe, as well as the tail surfaces. I used an ultra fine point Sharpie for this task, along with some basic drafting tools to guide the pen. Every panel line is at a simple 90º, 45º, 30º, parallel, or perpendicular line. This task took less than ten minutes. It's amazing how quickly things come together when you don't have to worry about scale references!

IMG_2982.jpg

These panel lines will also provide convenient mask lines for painting the leading edges of the wings matte black. We'll do that in our next post.

James
 
James, that's exactly what I do with a sharpie and triangle/rulers for panel lines, I typically just look at a 3-view and do some panel lines that seem appropriate on one side, the make some reference measurements and replicate it on the other side. I normally do not paint the white parts since they are already white and I like to save weight, however if you fly in a damp/wet area this will help the cardboard from absorbing paint. Main thing with masking over painted foam is that the paint doesn't really stick super well, so you have to use very lightly sticky masking tape so that it won't pull off the base layer, another reason I don't typically paint the white surfaces. Post what you find out, if you get any pulling of paint or not or what masking you find works well.

Frank
 
Main thing with masking over painted foam is that the paint doesn't really stick super well, so you have to use very lightly sticky masking tape so that it won't pull off the base layer, another reason I don't typically paint the white surfaces. Post what you find out, if you get any pulling of paint or not or what masking you find works well.

That's my concern as well, Frank. I ran a test using the scrap material included with the kit and learned that if one dulls the adhesive on the tape a bit before applying it to the model, it is possible to remove the tape without removing the underlying paint.

I'm using Tamiya tape, and rubbing it down on my workbench before applying it to the model. This will (hopefully) reduce the adhesive qualities of the tape just enough that it does not pull paint up when removed. Cross your fingers!

James

IMG_2983.jpg IMG_2984.jpg
 
Yes, that's the trick I do if required, tamiya tape is supposed to be the ticket, but I haven't used it, in the end, you may need to do a bit of touchup on the foam, the only other way around it would be to do a coating of thinned water based polyeurethane if that is not attacking the foam, and seal everything that then paint, I haven't tried that because I'm lazy and try to avoid extra paint layers, but other folks doing parkjets used to use this a lot on depron.

That's my concern as well, Frank. I ran a test using the scrap material included with the kit and learned that if one dulls the adhesive on the tape a bit before applying it to the model, it is possible to remove the tape without removing the underlying paint.

I'm using Tamiya tape, and rubbing it down on my workbench before applying it to the model. This will (hopefully) reduce the adhesive qualities of the tape just enough that it does not pull paint up when removed. Cross your fingers!

James

View attachment 338494 View attachment 338495
 
Oh, I'd also try to avoid masking over the blenderm tape, nothing really sticks that well to it if you try to mask over it. I'd adjust your black pattern to include the blenderm or not include it. if you know what I mean.
 
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Oh, I'd also try to avoid masking over the blenderm tape, nothing really sticks that well to it if you try to mask over it. I'd adjust your black pattern to include the blenderm or not include it. if you know what I mean.

Read this too late, I'm afraid. While adjusting a mask line I discovered that the paint on the Blenderm does indeed peel up quite easily. Completed the mask job without any further drama, though. This took about an hour, and was by far the most time-consuming step in the build process. After the temps warm up a few more degrees this afternoon the matte black will be sprayed into place.

For those of you wondering what the hell "Blenderm" is, Frank's designs use 3M Blenderm medical tape as hinge material, and also to cover the cavity on the underside of the wing where the carbon fiber spar is inserted. It's very versatile stuff, and a small roll is included with every Dynasoar Rocketry kit to speed assembly.

James

IMG_2986.jpg
 
The first coat of matte black paint has gone onto the model. Just as a refresher, we're using standard Testor's enamel rattle-can stuff, as it has been confirmed that this product will not harm the foam parts.

Pro tips: a cheap $20 microphone stand works great as a stand for supporting large models while painting, and a horse trailer is a great spray booth for stuff too large to fit into a hobby booth (remove the horses first, ideally).

James

IMG_2988.jpg
 
James, I forgot to mention, usually I spray all the edges then go over the large surfaces, then go back over the edges. the paint tends to wick into the exposed sanded edges into the foam cells as it dries and look less black, also since the foam is white on top, you get light going through the wing and it will sometimes expose areas on the bottom that didn't get sprayed evenly...The black tends to dry pretty fast.
 
After allowing the paint to dry for a couple of hours we can carefully peel the masking materials off.

IMG_2989.jpg IMG_2990.jpg

Everything came up cleanly with the exception of the masking over the Blenderm tape used for the elevon hinges. That will be an easy fix with some acrylic paint applied with an airbrush, though.

IMG_2991.jpg

Overall I'm very pleased with the results! I'll install the electronics this evening. That particular step won't be documented as Frank has done a great job of doing that in one of his videos:

[video=youtube;ApjwmkYwYfA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=256&v=ApjwmkYwYfA[/video]

After the radio gear is in place we'll fix the paint hickey. I also have some great cut vinyl graphics from Mark Hayes at Stickershock that we'll be installing in a later update, too.

More later,
James
 
Looks good, I like the little difference you did in the strake masking, makes it look a bit different. It looks like the Tamiya mask does work better, I see much less bleed under than when I use masking tape. For Marks vinyl, if you are applying over painted foam, they won't stick that great to start with when applying them off the backing paper, so you have to sort of apply pressure as you roll the backing paper off, you can't pull the backing paper up and off or it will just lift the markings, if you roll it completely back on itself and push down at the same time it will come off well, then use a warm/hot hair dryer to soften the markings and rub them down, they will soften and conform down into the paint nicely. If you are applying over the tube they should work fine as is, but I usually heat and rub those down too. Just make sure you don't really rub but press down, as when they are warm especially on tiny markigns you can just roll them into a little ball if you aren't paying attention:)

Did you mask where the servos will go on the bottom, or already install the servos and mask over them? I'm asking because you may need to scuff the paint where the servos glue in place.

Let me know what your dry weight winds up with radio/battery just for reference, I think mine was 10.5 oz but with your white paint I'd guess 11 oz maybe.

Frank
 
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Did you mask where the servos will go on the bottom, or already install the servos and mask over them? I'm asking because you may need to scuff the paint where the servos glue in place.

The servo locations have not yet been marked. After I determine the appropriate locations I'll scruff up the paint so that the adhesive makes good contact with the underlying foam.

I'll also weigh the completed model to see how it compares to your version.

James
 
Ok, did you also glue in the pushrod horns yet? Those are critical to be glued well so need to scuff or remove the paint where those go if you didn't apply them when assembling. I believe CA accellerator will remove the paint with a q-tip without having to scuff, if you want to try that on a scrap piece first that may be easier.

Frank


The servo locations have not yet been marked. After I determine the appropriate locations I'll scruff up the paint so that the adhesive makes good contact with the underlying foam.

I'll also weigh the completed model to see how it compares to your version.

James
 
Finished up the radio installation last night, and started on the application of the cut vinyl. As noted earlier this model is heavily influenced by the X-37 Orbital Test Vehicle, so the markings take their cues from that program.

For those of you who have not used cut vinyl before, this is the same stuff that is used for producing signs everywhere in the world. The raw vinyl material is provided to producers on rolls. Artwork is created using a graphics program such as Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw, then the vinyl roll is fed through a cutting machine that slices the individual markings from the roll while leaving the underlying support material intact. The waste material is peeled from the backing paper in a process called "weeding," leaving the finished markings intact on the backing sheet. Another lightly adhesive carrier sheet is placed over the markings, creating a sandwich with the marking encapsulated between the two carrier sheets. When it is time to place the marking, the original backing sheet is removed from the sticky side of the marking, which can then be placed on the model (or sign, or window, or vehicle, or whatever is being decorated).

These markings were purchased from Mark Hayes of Stickershock, and were of exceptionally high quality!

A roundel marking is applied to the wing.

IMG_2994.jpg

US Air Force markings are applied to the sides of the fuselage.

IMG_2995.jpg IMG_2996.jpg

Hatch details are applied.

IMG_2997.jpg IMG_2998.jpg

More later,
James
 
Our final task is to paint the nose cone. It already has a thin, lightweight base coat of white, so we just need to mask and paint the black areas. The nose is inserted into the airframe/fuselage tube, and the black areas on the tube are extended onto the cone.

IMG_2999.jpg

The area to remain white is covered with Tamiya tape.

IMG_3001.jpg

The cone is painted with Tamiya black spray lacquer. I did not use the Testors rattle can because 1) I used the last of it, and was too lazy and cheap to go get more, and 2) the Tamiya lacquer dries much quicker. There will be a slight mismatch between the matte finish on the airframe and the gloss finish on the nose cone, but who really cares? The variation in shade adds a bit of interest, anyway.

IMG_3002.jpg

The cone is unmasked, mounted on the airframe, and boom! We have a finished model!

IMG_3003.jpg

You can come see the finished model at NARCON next weekend, where it will be on display at the Dynasoar Rocketry booth!

James

Edit for Frank Burke: finished weight of the model with radio gear and without any motor casing is 8.1 oz.
 
That's great James, I'm always happy when the final products looks as good or better than my prototype:)

Frank
 
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