Second Build - Minimum Diameter Cardboard

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TheNewGuy

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Hello Everyone,

I want to thank all the people who replied to my last thread sometime ago. I really appreciate everyone offering advice, I like to learn as much as I can.

Before I start, I just want to apologize for the wall of text. I have ran out of people to talk about rockets too, even my family is tired of me blabbing about it. :eyeroll: So I hope you guys don't mind me blabbing here.

My first build was a LOC Hi-Tech, which I learned a lot from building and flying. I never posted pictures of it because it's way too embarrassing some of the obvious mistakes I made. I used an enormous amount of epoxy on the fillets for the fins, for example, not realizing that just because you add more doesn't mean the fins are more likely to stay on.

I also put fiberglass on the airframe of the rocket because I wanted to do a Level-2 certification on it (which was successful!). I learned from some of the experienced guys at my local launch that, aside from the fact that I used too much fiberglass resin, I didn't need to fiberglass the airfame at all. I was advised that the cardboard airframe would have been able to withstand the power of the J270 that I got my L2 on.

Another thing I learned, although not flight critical, is that I should have spent more time on paint. I just rattle canned orange paint on the rocket, after watching John Coker's YouTube video on simple painting I learned that preparation, even when doing simple rattle can paints, is very important.

Taking all various lessons learned on my first build, I decided I was ready to take a shot at a second one. Before I started on my second build, I thought I'd throw in a cool motor into the Hi-Tech and see what would happen. I launched it with an Aerotech J425, and it flew really well. When I recovered the rocket, the only damage was a fillet that had separated from the cardboard (I only put fiberglass on the body and not the fins). Despite the failure of the epoxy fillets, the fin was still dangling in the slot of the airframe!

After that flight, I started to look for ideas on what I wanted to do for my next rocket. I decided that I had three main goals:

  1. High Altitude
    1. First 1 mile
    2. Next 2 miles
    3. Lastly 3 miles
  2. Sophisticated Electronics - I graduated last year in EE, and I am itching to do something cool with the electronics. I have TONS of ideas.
    1. Flight Computer
    2. Payload Electronics
    3. Etc
  3. Speed
    1. I would like to break mach, but goals 1 & 2 take priority

I did some research with these goals in mind and I started to become fascinated with the idea of a minimum diameter rocket.

After reading a thread about how people overbuild their rockets I started to lean more and more towards using cardboard instead of fiberglass for the airframe. The advantages of using cardboard vs fiberglass or even carbon fiber is that it's cheap and very light weight.

Someone posted here on TRF that you could convert any rocket kit to minimum diameter just by setting aside the motor mount and grinding down the tabs on the fins to be only the thickness of the airframe. This way the fins will fit into the slot, but don't go past the slot blocking your motor.

I ended up going with a 38mm "Mini Tomach" from Madcow Rocketry and today I finished sanding and grinding down the fins. I test fitted everything, and so far it's looking good!

I just need to decide how I want to fillet the fins. I'd like to try not to "overbuild" my rocket while at the same time being able to reach both my altitude and speed goals (if possible).

How should I approach the fins so that they can withstand high speeds? From research on this forum and conversations I've had, these are some options I have found:
  • Wood glue (I don't think this would withstand mach?)
  • Aeropoxy ES6209
  • RocketPoxy
  • 15 minute epoxy (vs 5 minute epoxy?)
  • Using any of above then fiberglassing the fins tip to tip (is this neccessary?)

Another thing I want to add is that I don't plan on immediately jumping into flying J's with this rocket. My plan is to start with the modest H123, then make my way up to big J's. I'd like to compare the performance of this rocket vs my old Hi-Tech.

Your input and advice is highly appreciated!
 
Hi, New Guy!

For starters -- no apology needed for a long thread that is on topic and well-written. We are all here because we are interested in learning from others, and helping others, and generally just dicking around.

It's great that you have set some personal goals that are tying in your other skills and interests. After my L3 last year (with a pretty standard 4"/75mm/4FNC/TWT/T2T project) I decided that I wasn't interested in going "up" -- bigger motors for the sake of bigger motors) but "out" -- learning new fabrication skills like CAD, 3D printing, machine, and more advanced composites techniques. I also decided that MD projects fit the bill -- spend less money on motors, more time learning new things.

Re: converting TWT to MD -- definitely been done on fiberglass kits. If you added a tip-to-tip fiberglass layup on the cardboard fin can, no doubt it would be more than strong enough to handle whatever motors you are going to throw at it. This would make your question about adhesives for the fin-to-airframe bond a moot point.

But that being said - the rule of thumb about wood glue is that it is stronger than the materials it bonds. I have an LOC Onyx with surface-mounted plywood fins. I know I used wood glue to bond them to the airframe, and I forget whether I used wood glue or epoxy to make small fillets. (I used modeling putty to make larger cosmetic fillets, so it's all hidden now.) You can yank on the fins and they feel rock solid. But that is "yanking" not "trying to tear them off." I am pretty sure that if I really cranked on the Onyx fins, I would end up holding a fin, with a fillet and some shredded cardboard stuck to it...the body tube would fail first.

That would be a pretty un-scientific test though -- I am not sure how my yanking-cranking correlates to the stresses that the fins experience at increasing speeds.

Re: your question about epoxies, there's lots of information and opinions about that. As noted above, for a typical cardboard kit, TWT or surface mount, wood glue is going to be fine. My own experience/opinion is that hardware store epoxy is probably fine for a typical through-the-wall L1 kit, but I only use the 5-minute stuff for tacking (and for quick repairs to other people's rockets at the field :) ). The thin laminating epoxies (like West) are my daily driver. Proven products, can be used as a general purpose adhesive, good for injecting and laminating, and can be thickened for external fillets. JB Weld is a high-temp product that is very sticky, which makes it great for buttering fin roots on both surface mount and TWT projects. And Proline 4500 has some interesting properties that make it great for external fillets, plus it's also a high temp product. I have some Rocketpoxy on order and will get to play with in on my next build.

One tip about the specialty epoxies -- get a cheap postal scale that measures to 10th's of a gram, and mix by weight. The hardware store epoxies that are 1:1 mixes are more forgiving in ratio mistakes. But when you are mixing 5:1 or even 5.5:1 (Proline 4500), a very small amount of hardener goes a long way. It's hard to mix small batches by volume with confidence that you got the ratio correct. But it's very easy using a scale (by weight) and work with small batches. The scale (about $30) paid for itself a long time ago by letting me make much smaller batches, with very accurate ratios.

My apologies for a long-winded reply :)
 
Before I start, I just want to apologize for the wall of text. I have ran out of people to talk about rockets too, even my family is tired of me blabbing about it. :eyeroll: So I hope you guys don't mind me blabbing here.

Right there with ya buddy. I have *no one* to talk rockets with outside this forum. So blah away. :)
 
@Dad Man Walking,

I like your decision to build "out" instead of build "up", because learning the skills and techniques of building out can really be useful later on if you choose to build up.

Like you mentioned, with minimum diameter rockets you learn more and spend less. As a result of being so small and light weight, it will fly pretty high even on a small H (which are a lot cheaper than J's or even I's).

Regarding the fillets, your post made me realize I should probably fiberglass the fins no matter what adhesive I use for the fillets. I was thinking that even if I had the perfect fillets, if the rocket is going through the transonic region the fins could still snap somewhere above the fillets due to fin flutter.

Regardless, I still want to do a lot more research on how to approach the fillets.

Another thing I am trying to decide is to whether to convert it to dual deploy or not. If I can stick to single deploy, I can still use all that space above the coupler and below the nose cone for all my ideas for payloads. Of course if I sent it to those heights, I am going to need a tracker. So I am wondering if I can get away with single deploy if I go with a tracker.

Right there with ya buddy. I have *no one* to talk rockets with outside this forum. So blah away. :)

Thanks! I am definitely going to post here more.
 
Another thing I am trying to decide is to whether to convert it to dual deploy or not. If I can stick to single deploy, I can still use all that space above the coupler and below the nose cone for all my ideas for payloads. Of course if I sent it to those heights, I am going to need a tracker. So I am wondering if I can get away with single deploy if I go with a tracker.

With a JL CR - sure.
With a GPS tracker in the nose cone.

Without a chute release, you will, at least, end up driving/hiking for miles tracking your rocket.
If you are lucky, it will be in a publicly accessible open place.
If not so lucky, it will be on a private property of someone with a temper, or on top of a tree, or a house, or in a lake, or the signal will get lost altogether.

Once you need to get in the car to start chasing your rocket, the complications multiply.
JL CR keeps your recovery radius to a walkable distance.

a
 
Another thing I am trying to decide is to whether to convert it to dual deploy or not...

The Jolly Logic Chute Release is great when the motor deployment delay is long enough. You will find, however, that as you start building higher performance rockets, the motor delays may not be long enough enough for your rocket on some of the motors you want to use. You need another way to trigger the apogee event--that's what dual deployment altimeters are for.

I don't consider the trackers and dual deployment methods "either-or." Trackers are for whenever there is a chance that you won't be able to track the rocket visually. And that varies from day to day. I've seen rockets tracked visually at 12K feet at Black Rock on a clear day...and I've seen them disappear (never to be seen again) at 5K, when the skies were hazy. Winds up high can be very different that at ground level, so if you are putting something up high, with any chance that you can't track it visually all the way up and back down, you risk losing the rocket. At best, you could be searching for a few hours when you could have just walked right up to it with a tracker.
 
With a JL CR - sure.
With a GPS tracker in the nose cone.


Without a chute release, you will, at least, end up driving/hiking for miles tracking your rocket.
If you are lucky, it will be in a publicly accessible open place.
If not so lucky, it will be on a private property of someone with a temper, or on top of a tree, or a house, or in a lake, or the signal will get lost altogether.


Once you need to get in the car to start chasing your rocket, the complications multiply.
JL CR keeps your recovery radius to a walkable distance.


a


The Jolly Logic Chute Release is great when the motor deployment delay is long enough. You will find, however, that as you start building higher performance rockets, the motor delays may not be long enough enough for your rocket on some of the motors you want to use. You need another way to trigger the apogee event--that's what dual deployment altimeters are for.


I don't consider the trackers and dual deployment methods "either-or." Trackers are for whenever there is a chance that you won't be able to track the rocket visually. And that varies from day to day. I've seen rockets tracked visually at 12K feet at Black Rock on a clear day...and I've seen them disappear (never to be seen again) at 5K, when the skies were hazy. Winds up high can be very different that at ground level, so if you are putting something up high, with any chance that you can't track it visually all the way up and back down, you risk losing the rocket. At best, you could be searching for a few hours when you could have just walked right up to it with a tracker.

You guys are making sense, I will definitely go with a tracker and dual-deploy. There are two reasons as to why I'm dragging my feet on it, though. First, I just want to find space somewhere for some of my payload ideas. Second, I am not sure where to acquire black powder.

Regarding the Jolly Logic Chute Release, I think it's a really cool idea and I've had a couple people recommend it to me. The price though is a bit steep for me personally. I also already have the parts to build it myself if I wanted to (arduino nano + BMP180 barometric pressure sensor).

I just wanted to clarify something regarding the fillets. I should have no problems with the fins past mach if I used wood glue then fiberglass over the fillets and fins?

I just want to get started on the fins and make sure I am ready by the next rocket launch in February.
 
Not exactly the same since you're doing MD, but I've had very good success with 99% wood glue (except for JB weld for the motor retainer) for my cardboard rockets. I've pretty much gotten on board the epoxy train now, but my first two cardboard rockets - a Madcow DX3 and a LOC Vulcanite are absolute beasts. The DX3 has seen some spectacular crashes and with the Vuclanite, I broke a mile and (almost) busted mach on the same flight with an I280. I bet you'll have no problems at all with wood glue fillets and FG over that. I use the titebond moulding and trim glue for my fillets. Super thick and doesn't shrink as much as regular TB. Looking forward to following your build!
 
Not exactly the same since you're doing MD, but I've had very good success with 99% wood glue (except for JB weld for the motor retainer) for my cardboard rockets. I've pretty much gotten on board the epoxy train now, but my first two cardboard rockets - a Madcow DX3 and a LOC Vulcanite are absolute beasts. The DX3 has seen some spectacular crashes and with the Vuclanite, I broke a mile and (almost) busted mach on the same flight with an I280. I bet you'll have no problems at all with wood glue fillets and FG over that. I use the titebond moulding and trim glue for my fillets. Super thick and doesn't shrink as much as regular TB. Looking forward to following your build!

Those are great rockets! Seeing my friend build a DX3 a couple years ago is what got me into rocketry.

Thank you for the tip on titebond molding and trim glue. My Dad had a bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue that I was able to commandeer. I would have preferred the thickness of titebond, though.
 
Fins
I was able to work on the rocket this weekend. I drew a circle on a foam poster board and an outline for the fins, and used that as a fin guide for gluing on the fins.

It worked great, except I didn't realize until a while ago that I cut one of the slots for the third fin a bit too wide.

When I hold up the rocket and look real close I can see that fin is slightly off. It's not off by a huge amount but it's kinda bothering me knowing it's there. I'm not sure if I can fix this.

Coupler
The other thing I did was cut a piece of the top of the airframe off and glued it onto the coupler to act as a switchband.

I can't figure out what to do with the bulkplates and how to mount the shock cord. I have two airframe bulkplates, 1/4" bolt and nut. I was planning on screwing the two airframe bulkplates to each end of the coupler and putting my electronics inside.

After test fitting everything, I realize the 1/4" bolt really gets in the way. I couldn't fit a StratologgerCF and a 9V battery with the bolt in the middle of the way.

Because I want to do dual deploy, I am having trouble figuring out how I should use this coupler to do the following:
  • Act as a mounting point on either side for the shock cord (drogue parachute on one side and main parachute on the other)
  • Have at least one removable bulkplate
  • Have space for recovery electronics

Any suggestions is highly appreciated!
 
Fins
I was able to work on the rocket this weekend. I drew a circle on a foam poster board and an outline for the fins, and used that as a fin guide for gluing on the fins.

It worked great, except I didn't realize until a while ago that I cut one of the slots for the third fin a bit too wide.

When I hold up the rocket and look real close I can see that fin is slightly off. It's not off by a huge amount but it's kinda bothering me knowing it's there. I'm not sure if I can fix this.

Coupler
The other thing I did was cut a piece of the top of the airframe off and glued it onto the coupler to act as a switchband.

I can't figure out what to do with the bulkplates and how to mount the shock cord. I have two airframe bulkplates, 1/4" bolt and nut. I was planning on screwing the two airframe bulkplates to each end of the coupler and putting my electronics inside.

After test fitting everything, I realize the 1/4" bolt really gets in the way. I couldn't fit a StratologgerCF and a 9V battery with the bolt in the middle of the way.

Because I want to do dual deploy, I am having trouble figuring out how I should use this coupler to do the following:
  • Act as a mounting point on either side for the shock cord (drogue parachute on one side and main parachute on the other)
  • Have at least one removable bulkplate
  • Have space for recovery electronics

Any suggestions is highly appreciated!

Have you considered having the AV bay control only one ejection? you could do motor eject at apogee and then the your electronics could deploy the main? That also gives you the option of doing altimeter eject at apogee, then use a chute release at a lower altitude to unreef your chute. With this configuration, your electronics could be in an av bay that is open to the nose cone, giving you much more room for both a tracker and an altimeter. Just a thought.
 
There are things you can do to get better adhesion with just about any adhesive and mating-surfaces. Scuffing up the surfaces to make them rough is the obvious one. Drilling tiny holes or pin holes into the mating surfaces for a rivet type of effect is another. (Obviously not as easy on G10 fins but certainly for wood fins). Epoxy penetrates the holes and hangs on like a tiger claw. Works under fin fillets in cardboard surfaces too.

You don't always have to go tip-to-tip with the fiberglass either- a patch of fiberglass fabric going an inch up the fin and an inch or so out onto the airframe works. Not as easy to conceal during finishing as tip-to-tip layup but a way to add strength without as much weight.
 
Hey Everyone,

I know it's been a while, I have been busy with work and some other things. I can't wait to get back to launching rockets, though!

I'm almost finished writing up an update post.


Have you considered having the AV bay control only one ejection? you could do motor eject at apogee and then the your electronics could deploy the main? That also gives you the option of doing altimeter eject at apogee, then use a chute release at a lower altitude to unreef your chute. With this configuration, your electronics could be in an av bay that is open to the nose cone, giving you much more room for both a tracker and an altimeter. Just a thought.


Have you considered having the AV bay control only one ejection? you could do motor eject at apogee and then the your electronics could deploy the main? That also gives you the option of doing altimeter eject at apogee, then use a chute release at a lower altitude to unreef your chute. With this configuration, your electronics could be in an av bay that is open to the nose cone, giving you much more room for both a tracker and an altimeter. Just a thought.


Thank you guys, these are some really good ideas! I'm glad I posted this build on TRF.
 
Coupler
I have decided to get rid of the 1/4" piece of threaded rod going down the center of the coupler. This is because I have realized that having a large bolt in the center of the coupler will prevent anything with a rectangular shape from fitting nicely.

I also realized that because I was using stainless steel threaded rod, I could also safely use a smaller diameter threaded rod.

As a result, I have ordered on eBay a 250mm long piece of M2 threaded rod. I will cut it in half and use those two pieces of threaded rod on each side of the coupler to hold down the wooden bulkplates on each end.

This will free up space in the center for a StratoLogger and a 9V battery to fit nicely!

The threaded rod and nuts should arrive no later than April 2nd. :)

Fins
Man, you guys were not kidding about the strength of wood glue on wood and cardboard. I used a rotary tool to cut away at the wood glue fillets just enough for me to straighten out the misaligned fin and glue it up again.

All fins are now very straight and looking good!

I now realize that the fillets wouldn't break off during a fast flight, rather the fin flutter during said flight would break the wooden fins somewhere north of the fillets.

As a result, I'm debating if I should put a piece of fiberglass from the fillets up to the tip of the fin. I'm just trying not to make the rocket unbalanced by adding too much weight towards the bottom and not enough at the top.

Tracking
I can't decide on how I want to track this thing.

Here are my options I'm considering:
  1. Commerical Off the Shelf Solution (COTS): Expensive, Reliable
    1. Something like an Eggfinder. The problem with this is that it would be almost 2x the cost of the rocket itself.
      1. Rocket: $50 for a mini-tomach, $10 wooden bulkplates, $4 wood glue, etc.)
      2. Tracker: $75 - $100 Eggfinder Mini.
  2. Arduino Solution: Less expensive, Highly Customizable, Might Need Ham Licence Depending on Frequency Used
    1. Arduino Nano + Radio Module
      1. Pros:
        1. A Chineese Arduino Nano can be had for dirt cheap (I have some laying around)
        2. VHF radio modules can be had on eBay for $10 (such as the DRA818V).
        3. These could be combined to utilize APRS for tracking.
      2. Cons:
        1. Can easily fall into a rabbit hole and never finish.
        2. Need Ham Licence to legally operate on VHF and not make enemies with other guys at the rocket launches.
          1. I could try going with the 915 MHz ISM band? Could try using an RFM69?
      3. The problem I'm having choosing what frequency band to use is that I want to have the capability in the future to track beyond 10 miles.
        1. This is because the rocket I'm planning on building after this is a fiberglass 54mm minimum diameter that I plan on sending to the moon. :D

Making it Look Nice
My first rocket ever was just spray painted with a rattle can. As a result you could still see the texture of the cardboard and the spiral lines.

For this build, I'd like to make it look nice. I'm just trying to decide what filler to use after spraying the primer.

Also, if I put fiberglass on the wooden fins, filler could be used to make the paint look nice and smooth. Am I correct?

Thank you in advance for any comments and suggestions.
 
I'd highly recommend getting your Ham licence. The test is a piece of cake and it gives you so many options. You can get a very small rf tracker from Adept for less than $50, a cheap Chinese radio off ebay and make your own yagi antenna for a few bucks - that would be the cheapest way to go. I hemmed and hawed over what tracker to get hoping to use as much of my existing equipment as possible. Ended up getting a TeleGPS which operates on the 70cm ham band. The setup works for me but it's a little bit clunky. I can pick up a gps location right on my radio and then plug the coordinates into my phone to take me to it. It's tiny, so would fit in a 38mm rocket no problem. I currently have it in the nose cone of my 38 Special.

For my cardboard rockets, I filled the spirals with elmers carpenters wood filler sanded smooth then several coats of high-build primer after that (sanding in between each coat) The secret is making your primer look perfect - if you can do that, you can't fail with the color coat. I used standard Rusto and it looks great. I do think however I benefit greatly from the hot dry weather of Southern California - paint dries almost instantly here.
 
Hello Everyone,

I want to thank all the people who replied to my last thread sometime ago. I really appreciate everyone offering advice, I like to learn as much as I can.

Before I start, I just want to apologize for the wall of text. I have ran out of people to talk about rockets too, even my family is tired of me blabbing about it. :eyeroll: So I hope you guys don't mind me blabbing here.

My first build was a LOC Hi-Tech, which I learned a lot from building and flying. I never posted pictures of it because it's way too embarrassing some of the obvious mistakes I made. I used an enormous amount of epoxy on the fillets for the fins, for example, not realizing that just because you add more doesn't mean the fins are more likely to stay on.

I also put fiberglass on the airframe of the rocket because I wanted to do a Level-2 certification on it (which was successful!). I learned from some of the experienced guys at my local launch that, aside from the fact that I used too much fiberglass resin, I didn't need to fiberglass the airfame at all. I was advised that the cardboard airframe would have been able to withstand the power of the J270 that I got my L2 on.

Another thing I learned, although not flight critical, is that I should have spent more time on paint. I just rattle canned orange paint on the rocket, after watching John Coker's YouTube video on simple painting I learned that preparation, even when doing simple rattle can paints, is very important.

Taking all various lessons learned on my first build, I decided I was ready to take a shot at a second one. Before I started on my second build, I thought I'd throw in a cool motor into the Hi-Tech and see what would happen. I launched it with an Aerotech J425, and it flew really well. When I recovered the rocket, the only damage was a fillet that had separated from the cardboard (I only put fiberglass on the body and not the fins). Despite the failure of the epoxy fillets, the fin was still dangling in the slot of the airframe!

After that flight, I started to look for ideas on what I wanted to do for my next rocket. I decided that I had three main goals:

  1. High Altitude
    1. First 1 mile
    2. Next 2 miles
    3. Lastly 3 miles
  2. Sophisticated Electronics - I graduated last year in EE, and I am itching to do something cool with the electronics. I have TONS of ideas.
    1. Flight Computer
    2. Payload Electronics
    3. Etc
  3. Speed
    1. I would like to break mach, but goals 1 & 2 take priority

I did some research with these goals in mind and I started to become fascinated with the idea of a minimum diameter rocket.

After reading a thread about how people overbuild their rockets I started to lean more and more towards using cardboard instead of fiberglass for the airframe. The advantages of using cardboard vs fiberglass or even carbon fiber is that it's cheap and very light weight.

Someone posted here on TRF that you could convert any rocket kit to minimum diameter just by setting aside the motor mount and grinding down the tabs on the fins to be only the thickness of the airframe. This way the fins will fit into the slot, but don't go past the slot blocking your motor.

I ended up going with a 38mm "Mini Tomach" from Madcow Rocketry and today I finished sanding and grinding down the fins. I test fitted everything, and so far it's looking good!

I just need to decide how I want to fillet the fins. I'd like to try not to "overbuild" my rocket while at the same time being able to reach both my altitude and speed goals (if possible).

How should I approach the fins so that they can withstand high speeds? From research on this forum and conversations I've had, these are some options I have found:
  • Wood glue (I don't think this would withstand mach?)
  • Aeropoxy ES6209
  • RocketPoxy
  • 15 minute epoxy (vs 5 minute epoxy?)
  • Using any of above then fiberglassing the fins tip to tip (is this neccessary?)

Another thing I want to add is that I don't plan on immediately jumping into flying J's with this rocket. My plan is to start with the modest H123, then make my way up to big J's. I'd like to compare the performance of this rocket vs my old Hi-Tech.

Your input and advice is highly appreciated!

For what it is worth I took my 29mm apogee aspire (3fin) supersonic on a g80 on the weekend. Fins were 3mm balsa that we’re double diamond airfoiled, papered and CAd, with epoxy attach and epoxy putty fillets.

IMG_1521626626.059308.jpg
 
You hit a sweet spot with me here. I won't fly without tracking and I didn't skimp on it either. I routinely fly cheap kits with a $350 RDF transmitter. For me tracking is as much fun if not more fun than any other aspect of the hobby. My only real advice with tracking is make sure what ever you decide on is easily transferred from model to model. The last bit of advice is what ever you decide on, make sure you practice with it.

Cardboard + wood glue + big motor + tracker = smiles that last for days
 
I'd highly recommend getting your Ham licence. The test is a piece of cake and it gives you so many options. You can get a very small rf tracker from Adept for less than $50, a cheap Chinese radio off ebay and make your own yagi antenna for a few bucks - that would be the cheapest way to go. I hemmed and hawed over what tracker to get hoping to use as much of my existing equipment as possible. Ended up getting a TeleGPS which operates on the 70cm ham band. The setup works for me but it's a little bit clunky. I can pick up a gps location right on my radio and then plug the coordinates into my phone to take me to it. It's tiny, so would fit in a 38mm rocket no problem. I currently have it in the nose cone of my 38 Special.

For my cardboard rockets, I filled the spirals with elmers carpenters wood filler sanded smooth then several coats of high-build primer after that (sanding in between each coat) The secret is making your primer look perfect - if you can do that, you can't fail with the color coat. I used standard Rusto and it looks great. I do think however I benefit greatly from the hot dry weather of Southern California - paint dries almost instantly here.

I think you're right. I've been dragging my feet on getting the license, I should just suck it up and do it already.

It's a real asset to have for not only rocketry, but many other projects and hobbies as well.

I've never considered an RDF tracker, and their low cost is really appealing. I'll do more research on them!

For what it is worth I took my 29mm apogee aspire (3fin) supersonic on a g80 on the weekend. Fins were 3mm balsa that we’re double diamond airfoiled, papered and CAd, with epoxy attach and epoxy putty fillets.

View attachment 341301

They look awesome!

You hit a sweet spot with me here. I won't fly without tracking and I didn't skimp on it either. I routinely fly cheap kits with a $350 RDF transmitter. For me tracking is as much fun if not more fun than any other aspect of the hobby. My only real advice with tracking is make sure what ever you decide on is easily transferred from model to model. The last bit of advice is what ever you decide on, make sure you practice with it.

Cardboard + wood glue + big motor + tracker = smiles that last for days

I enjoy going out and hunting for the rocket, as long as I eventually end up finding it. :D

That's true. If I end up spending any large amount of cash on the tracking system, it definitely will be used on this build and the next.

One of the things I love about this project is that, similar to what you said, it will be fun on everything from the small (relatively) cheap motors all the way up to the big J's.
 
Nose Cone
I am brainstorming on effective ways to utilize the nose cone as a secondary payload bay (for a tracker and other electronics). John Coker has a video on his YouTube channel on how to do this, but the nose cone he used in his video is much larger than my 38mm one. I have some ideas on what I could use as a sled, but haven't yet thought of ways to secure the sled in the nose cone and still make it removable.

Another option I've considered is 3D printing a nose cone, but it's been a while since I've used CAD tools and I also don't want to waste the nose cone I already have.

Name
For my first rocket, I just called it the "LOC Hi-Tech". I want to be creative this time, and not just use the name of the kit. Much brainstorming is to be had here...

Drogue
If I do end up using a drouge parachute (instead of something like a chute release), where do I source one from and how do I appropriately size one for my rocket? Is it based on weight of the rocket?

I also need to do more research on this.
 
https://www.labratrocketry.com/ makes 3D printed nose cone tracker sleds for 38 mm. might give you some ideas. I made a removable bulkhead in my 38mm rocket nose cone by epoxying some barrel nuts inside the coupler portion and then attach the bulkhead with some hex bolts. I didn't bother with a sled - I just wrap my tracker in foam, tape it up and it makes a snug fit inside (actually in the case of this rocket, I have the tracker with the wire whip antennae pointing aft and sticking out through the hole in the center of the bulkhead since its too long for the nose cone). In this case I'm not using a eye bolt but a loop of kevlar.

A few trackers (especially the rf ones) are so small that I've heard people just attach them to their shock cords. I've never done this, but apparently in this manner you'll get a signal spike when deployment occurs - a good way to know you've had a successful event.

I like using the thin-mil chutes from topflight recovery since they pack up very small.
 
https://www.labratrocketry.com/ makes 3D printed nose cone tracker sleds for 38 mm. might give you some ideas. I made a removable bulkhead in my 38mm rocket nose cone by epoxying some barrel nuts inside the coupler portion and then attach the bulkhead with some hex bolts. I didn't bother with a sled - I just wrap my tracker in foam, tape it up and it makes a snug fit inside (actually in the case of this rocket, I have the tracker with the wire whip antennae pointing aft and sticking out through the hole in the center of the bulkhead since its too long for the nose cone). In this case I'm not using a eye bolt but a loop of kevlar.

A few trackers (especially the rf ones) are so small that I've heard people just attach them to their shock cords. I've never done this, but apparently in this manner you'll get a signal spike when deployment occurs - a good way to know you've had a successful event.

I like using the thin-mil chutes from topflight recovery since they pack up very small.

Thanks for passing on our info. I believe the Tomach comes with a molded plastic nose cone which I don't have for comparison, so I can't swear our bulkhead would fit it. It does fit a LOC 38 NC with some sanding of the inside shoulder, so I suspect it could work. If you want to try it, I offer risk free trial of the bulkhead/sled in a previously untested nosecone in exchange for knowing if it works or not...like I said though, this one will probably need a little sanding.

The Rf tracker on the shock cord is a nice technique. I did that on a 54CF minimum diameter, and it was nice to know it ejected at 16k' as it was decidedly out of site. For what it is worth, I recommend going with a GPS tracker at your stage as they are pretty straightforward to learn...Rf tracking is a skill that requires practice which is great if you are into that, but GPS tracking has gotten relatively cheap over the past few years with Eggfinder, then Missileworks, and soon Featherweight coming out with really attractively priced GPS tracking systems.

I'll also second the TopFlight thin mill chute for these 38mm rockets. They are affordable, pack small, and open cleanly...can't ask for more than that. I use a 30" thin mill on my 38MD fiberglass rocket, so weight wise you should be good with that for your cardboard rocket unless you are landing on really hard surface.

Good luck on your project.
 
https://www.labratrocketry.com/ makes 3D printed nose cone tracker sleds for 38 mm. might give you some ideas. I made a removable bulkhead in my 38mm rocket nose cone by epoxying some barrel nuts inside the coupler portion and then attach the bulkhead with some hex bolts. I didn't bother with a sled - I just wrap my tracker in foam, tape it up and it makes a snug fit inside (actually in the case of this rocket, I have the tracker with the wire whip antennae pointing aft and sticking out through the hole in the center of the bulkhead since its too long for the nose cone). In this case I'm not using a eye bolt but a loop of kevlar.

A few trackers (especially the rf ones) are so small that I've heard people just attach them to their shock cords. I've never done this, but apparently in this manner you'll get a signal spike when deployment occurs - a good way to know you've had a successful event.

I like using the thin-mil chutes from topflight recovery since they pack up very small.

Thanks for passing on our info. I believe the Tomach comes with a molded plastic nose cone which I don't have for comparison, so I can't swear our bulkhead would fit it. It does fit a LOC 38 NC with some sanding of the inside shoulder, so I suspect it could work. If you want to try it, I offer risk free trial of the bulkhead/sled in a previously untested nosecone in exchange for knowing if it works or not...like I said though, this one will probably need a little sanding.

The Rf tracker on the shock cord is a nice technique. I did that on a 54CF minimum diameter, and it was nice to know it ejected at 16k' as it was decidedly out of site. For what it is worth, I recommend going with a GPS tracker at your stage as they are pretty straightforward to learn...Rf tracking is a skill that requires practice which is great if you are into that, but GPS tracking has gotten relatively cheap over the past few years with Eggfinder, then Missileworks, and soon Featherweight coming out with really attractively priced GPS tracking systems.

I'll also second the TopFlight thin mill chute for these 38mm rockets. They are affordable, pack small, and open cleanly...can't ask for more than that. I use a 30" thin mill on my 38MD fiberglass rocket, so weight wise you should be good with that for your cardboard rocket unless you are landing on really hard surface.

Good luck on your project.

Thanks for the replies you guys!

Faroutspacenut, I love the barrel nuts and bulkhead idea.

Cl(VII), I'll check out your website. Haven't heard of you guys before.

Also, I should probably post pics soon of the progress so far.
 
Check out some pictures I just uploaded!

It's almost ready to fly, here is a very short list of things I need to do in order to make it airworthy:

  • Glue shock cord to inside of rocket airframe
  • Glue coupler bulkplates underneath the airframe bulkplates on each side of the coupler.
    • I want to do this so that when I am screwing everything together the airframe bulkplates don't slide everywhere.
  • Fiberglass the fins?

I am really happy with the steel M2 threaded rod and nuts. They are really small, but because they are made of steel I think they should withstand the abuse this cardboard rocket will throw at it.

Fins
Once I figure out tracking and have flown the rocket a lot of times, I would like to put some big J's in this rocket.

In anticipation of this, I would like to fiberglass the fins in order to prevent transonic induced fin flutter from breaking the fins.

Painting
Before I fly it, I would like to try to make this rocket look nice. I am waiting on some Hobbylite Filler to arrive in the mail.

In the album linked above, there is a picture of the paints and primer I plan on using. They are Rust-Oleum brand automotove primer and regular paints.

Are these paints compatible with the cardboard airframe and the HobbyLite Filler?

StratoLoggerCF Altimeter
For the first flight of this rocket (hopefully the weekend of April 7th), I plan on using only single deploy for recovery.

This means I am only going to use the altimeter for datalogging, and do not need a switch to arm it on the launch pad.

This is something on my to do list, though. For dual deploy, I need to buy a switch, black powder and a drogue parachute.

Weight
I weighed this rocket on a small 500 gram scale I have, and it weighed only 9.342 ounces!

Keep in mind that this is without
  • Propellant
  • AeroTech's RMS Casing
  • Black Powder
  • Drogue Parachute
  • Primer/Filler/Paint
  • Electronics I plan to put in the nosecone in the future
  • Fiberglass on the fins

But a starting weight of a little over half a pound is not bad! :)

Other Comments
I need to try to input this rocket into a simulator, but I just haven't had a lot of time lately. I have a feeling this thing is going to go really high.

This weekend I want to start out with an H123 and then move up to some small H motors, but I don't want to push my luck and not be able to find the thing.

In the future (within a month hopefully) I plan on taking a test and getting my Ham license like Faroutspacenut recommended, and then using one of the Ham frequency bands for a tracker.

But until then I need a temporary method of tracking it, maybe some binoculars? :confused:

I plan on flying it at the TRASD Launch the weekend of April 7th, and also at the ROC Launch on April 14th.

I just heard about TRASD, so this weekend will be my first time. I've been at ROC many times, though.

It's been a while since I've flown a rocket, so I want to get it out of my system. :grin:
 
Rail Instead of Rod
Can I replace these stupid launch lugs with screws to use as rail buttons on a 1010 rail?

If so, what size screw head will fit in the slot?

I don't think I could get fly away rail guides before this weekend. Which is why I am considering rail buttons.

EDIT 1: How To Make Your Own Rail Guides (PDF)
I guess a pan head screw and a nut sticking out the side of the rocket is better than launch lugs, both functionally and visually speaking.

I think I could eventually unscrew them and replace them with something like this.

EDIT 2: I removed the launch lugs with my rotary tool. I must say it was very satisfying.

EDIT 3: Fin fiberglassing in progress.
 
I used the 29mm 3D printed conformal rail guides from apogee - I used two segments of one (about 25mm long each) that I slope sanded and blended into the airframe with CWF:

IMG_8574.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Last edited:
Album Link: https://imgur.com/a/6u9F3
I added some update pictures to the end of the album.

Fins
For the past two days, I have been applying fiberglass onto the fins. Now I am waiting on the last fin to dry.

Once dry, I will trim and shape the edges of the fins.

Upper Airframe
I sprayed some primer on the upper airframe. I think I held the can too close, because it looks thick in some areas.

I will sand the airframe before I apply a new coat.

Rail Guides
After the fins, the only thing keeping the rocket from being functionally fly-able are the screws for the rail guides.

I am trying to decide where to put the rail guides. On one hand, I want to put them far up so that I can leave room for large motors. On the other, I am not sure what's the limit on how far up I can put them.
 
I just got an idea:
I just measured the airframe, and the outer diameter is 1-9/16".

I could take 2" PVC pipe and make my own fly away rail guides.

The leftover ~3/16" space on each side could be filled with foam padding.

I would just have to make sure I measure everything thrice, because I don't have a rail to test this on.
 
Hello Everyone,

So I flew the rocket almost 2 weeks ago, and it didn't fly exactly as I'd hoped.

Album: https://imgur.com/a/bV62TcG

The first 19 or so pictures in the above album are frames from a video I took of the launch. The rest of the pictures after that are of the aftermath.

Flight
The rocket took off in a slight slant and then went into a tailspin. After the motor stopped burning the rocket landed on the ground, after which the motor ejection charge went off.

The rocket was flown on an AeroTech H123W.

Cause
I have been contemplating what caused this for a while, and I have a couple theories. I'm not 100% convinced on any of them, though.
  1. Fin struck the fly away rail guides (Additive Aerospace, 38mm)
    1. You can see in the above album, the fly away rail guides are bent out of shape and the "hinge" is cracked at the 3d printed part (also in above album).
      1. Side note: Out of all the fly away rail guides on the market, this one by Additive Aerospace is my favorite. I think I can easily fix the damage.
    2. This theory is challenged by the fact that that after the rocket left the pad it started taking a right turn.
      1. If the rocket fins stuck the rail guides, wouldn't it have immediately sent the rocket into a tailspin? You can look at the images in the album to see what I'm talking about.
      2. There was no wind at all the day of the launch.
  2. Thrust of H123W led to failure of the cardboard airframe which sent the rocket turning right then into a tailspin.
    1. I'm not convinced of this theory due to my understanding that the "crushing weight" of the 38mm cardboard airframe is significant.
    2. AeroTech H123 specs on ThrustCurve say the maximum thrust is 174.2N (39.2 lbf)
    3. The failure of the airframe could be from the rocket hitting the ground?
  3. Bad fin alignment
    1. Not really confident in this theory because my fins appear to be straight.

Going Forward
I'm not sure what to do with this rocket. I'm really bummed because I put a lot of time into the fins (the fillets and the layer of fiberglass).

I thought of ways of fixing the airframe:

  1. Coupler
    1. I don't like this method because it would block my motor casing. I use two motor casings (38/720 and a 38/360) with an adapter system. Fixing the airframe with a coupler would most likely block even the 38/360 casing.
  2. Fiberglass
    1. I could fiberglass the outside of the bent portion while keeping it straight. The problem is that it would add a lot of extra drag, having the outside of the airframe step up then back down over the fiberglassed portion.

I'm trying to decide if I should let this rocket rest in peace, rebuild the lower portion and redo everything I did to the fins again, or fiberglass the outside like I mentioned above and just deal with the increase in drag.

Overall, the lessons I've learned from this will be used on my next project. I bought a Wildman Jr, and I plan to convert it to MD with the same method I used on this Mini-Tomach.
 
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