Eggtimer LCD Flash help.

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tfish

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I thought I was doing well..but not joy.

My LCD is an old one with VER 1.09D

I'm following these directions https://www.eggtimerrocketry.com/attachments/File/Eggfinder_LCD_Flash_Update_Instructions_B2.pdf

Downloaded this Eggfinder LCD Receiver 1.10R Software Update https://www.eggtimerrocketry.com/attachments/File/Eggfinder_LCD_Flash_Update_Instructions_B2.pdf saved it to c:\eggtimer

..using a usb cable from Eggtimer..changed the com port from 3 to 2.and Download the drivers for it

The Serial Cable to LCD’s serial header pins are the right colors. I have a shorting jumper pin in the two holes. I don't hear the buzzer when I turn the LCD on. I do see XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX across the LCD screen

I think I have all the command prompts right...see below.

I see things start to happen and remove the jumper..there's a long beeeep in there some where...thing scroll quickly in the cmd box..then it stops and I turn off the LCD and unplug things. Turn the LCD back on, and it still shows ver 1.09D

I've amazed myself to get this far. If you see where I screwed up or need more info...PLEASE ask questions and give directions as if I'm a 59 year old guy that just woke up from the 80's!

PS...and I did reboot my laptop just before I tried to flash the LCD...I read that some of the download things need to be rebooted prior to flashing,

Tony

eggtimer1.jpg
 
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It looks like your typing in all the correct commands. But its the "not in sync" error that's bad.

Are you sure your serial wires are hooked up to the correct post?
 
I think you're pretty close, AVRDude isn't complaining about the serial port or not being to find the .hex file. What you need to do is pull the jumper out IMMEDIATELY AFTER hitting Enter to launch the .bat file. That should do it.
 
Did you restart Windows after installing AVRDude or whatever the software is? That was my frustration for flashing the LCD.
 
OK..I've been playing with and reading more. That Jumper needs to come out quick. I tied some fishing line to it (go figure) I can now get it past the above cmd stuff,

I've done it four more times and get the following info,,each of the 4 times same info..

Tony

EF5.jpg

EF4.jpg

EF3.jpg

EF2.jpg
 
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also, I've not seen a window close. Is that the cmd window? nore the long beep at the end
Just to confirm things. I place the jumper in and then turn on the LCD which still has it's battery in place.

and I'm using Windows 10

11) AS SOON AS YOU SEE THIS quickly remove the shorting jumper that you placed across the RST pads. If it “takes”, you will start to see a lot of stuff scroll rapidly across your screen. This means that it’s uploading, this is good. After about a minute or so it will stop and the window will close, your Eggfinder LCD will reset, and it will go into the normal operational mode (you’ll hear a long beep). Turn it off and disconnect the serial cable. Turn it back on, and confirm that the version on the LCD display matches the uploaded software version. If it does, you’re done!

Tony
 
Tony, you seem to almost be there but the syncing is the problem. I performed this LCD upgrade to version 1.10R yesterday without any hitches. You might not be getting a reliable reset if you've got a simple wire link in the reset pad holes. If it doesn't pull out cleanly, you might cause multiple resets. Whether this matters, I don't know.

However, you could try and solder a couple of leads to the reset pads with a momentary push button switch (NO - normally open) at the other end. Hold the button in while powering up the LCD then let go when the .bat file starts. I have this reset button fitted to my LCD module - it's very handy.

Good luck!
 
Tony, you seem to almost be there but the syncing is the problem. I performed this LCD upgrade to version 1.10R yesterday without any hitches. You might not be getting a reliable reset if you've got a simple wire link in the reset pad holes. If it doesn't pull out cleanly, you might cause multiple resets. Whether this matters, I don't know.

However, you could try and solder a couple of leads to the reset pads with a momentary push button switch (NO - normally open) at the other end. Hold the button in while powering up the LCD then let go when the .bat file starts. I have this reset button fitted to my LCD module - it's very handy.

Good luck!

Yes, it's likely that if you don't pull out the paperclip cleanly it will reset multiple times and fail the update.

Another option is a header and a shorting jumper across the RST pads, that's what I do in my test LCD receiver. I upload to it a lot.
 
Yes, it's likely that if you don't pull out the paperclip cleanly it will reset multiple times and fail the update.

Another option is a header and a shorting jumper across the RST pads, that's what I do in my test LCD receiver. I upload to it a lot.

Copy..

I tried it about 6 more times last night. Still no joy. I'll see if I can find a header and jumper thing online.
attached photo is what I've been using/trying.

Tony

ef6.jpg
 
I use a 2 pin header and a JST connector with the wires twisted together or if I can get at the pins use a shorting block and use one of those. Once you get the timing/technique down and the hardware is setup it's not so bad. Kurt
 
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I cut a Pin and Jumper out of an old damaged altimeter. I'm just holding it to the RST holes. I turn on the LCD and the screen shows..something that looks like all XXXXXXX not really x's but sort of. I then inter the eggfinder_lcd_1_10r.bat (command?)

as soon as the cmd shows info about Com3 etc. I remove the jumper and the "stuff starts scrolling on the cmd and a long beeeep. Stuff is still scrolling in the cmd . I look at the LCD screen and all the XXXXXX stuff is gone and normal LCD is displaying.

I've done this at least 30 times now. Varying how long I wait to pull the pin etc.
once the cmd stuff stops. I turn off the LCD, disconnect it and then turn the LCD back one to check if it flashed.

If nobody has any more ideas, I'm going to send it to a buddy of mine to see if he can update the flash.

Tony
 
I use a 2 pin header and a JST connector with the wires twisted together or if I can get at the pins use a shorting block and use one of those. Once you get the timing/technique down and the hardware is setup it's not so bad. Kurt

Assuming it's still provided with the kit, I simply took the provided button that I wasn't going to use for it's intended purpose (since I was wiring those pads to an external button on my case) and soldered it in the reset position instead. It did require bending back some of the metal frame pins, but was an easy mod, and gives a nice button to hold/release for programming.

If the right sequence is followed the micro never has a chance to send anything to the display (it boots into the programming mode instead of Cris' code), so I'm confused by the mention of "XXX"'s on the display, that simply shouldn't ever happen as I understand it. So not sure if that points to a soldering issue and this LCD board doesn't really work right (did it ever work?), or perhaps the contrast is just off (there's a screw-pot on the main board to adjust this) and you're saying ALL of the pixels are lit? Since the RST pads really are a reset for the micro, you can let the unit boot normally (i.e. get to "Waiting for fix..." on the LCD screen) and then short those two pads for a moment, the unit should restart when you do that, if it doesn't then there's probably a bad connection somewhere (couldn't say where).
 
a quick reply.

It's been working fine for 3 years. The only reason I want to flash it. is because I got the LCD/GPS unit and a 3D printed case for it.

I see now, my XXX'e description is not very accurate...see below.

I'll play around with it some more tonight.

Tony

ef8.jpg

ef7.jpg
 
I see now, my XXX'e description is not very accurate...see below.

That's bizarre, I haven't seen that before. I assume stuff does show up on the lower line of the display when you're receiving Eggfinder GPS coordinates (or interacting with a TRS)? Maybe that's not a surprise to Cris, but I'd either expect the entire display to be blank or the entire display to appear lit (which would just be a contrast thing as it shouldn't actually be 'lit' [black]), not half-on and half-off.
 
I think it's normal, actually. That's what mine does when I power the LCD Rx module up with the reset button pressed. I think that the LCD board just powers up in it's initial state before the processor board comes out of reset and initializes the LCD display. I've seen this many times before when applying power to an unconfigured 2-line LCD display.
 
I played around with it again last night.

I took it apart and checked the solder joints on the 4-pin serial pin header. They look good to me...see attached

I also deleted the Flash doc's I downloaded from Eggtimer. I reloaded them again, thinking I named them wrong or put them in the wrong place.

Tried about 10 times to flash it. I varied the time..to pull the jumper shorter pin...Still no joy.

Unless someone has more ideas, I'm going to send this to a buddy of mine. Maybe he can figure it out.

Tony

ef9.jpg
 
I want to thank Will ...Woferry... for Flashing my LCD at the launch on Saturday. Thanks Will.

I noticed he was entering the command and releasing the momentary switch...which I added...almost at the same time.

So then Chris release a new Flash version...so, I figure what the heck I can do that!
15 tries last night. Another 12 tries this morning with no luck.
I've double checked and triple checked everything. Well not quite. I have 3 of the Eggtimer USB serial cables.
I tried a different one tonight and got it to flash on the first try.

Thanks to the others that tried to help me...

Tony
 
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The trick is to short the RST pads, and release the short IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. Personally, I use a pair of sharp bent tweezers... I just hold them against the pads, hit Enter on the keyboard, and lift them away from the pads. Works every time. Others have put a little tactile button on them or a header, that works too... the programmer that I threw together for the Atmel chips uses a RST button.
 
The trick is to short the RST pads, and release the short IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. Personally, I use a pair of sharp bent tweezers... I just hold them against the pads, hit Enter on the keyboard, and lift them away from the pads. Works every time. Others have put a little tactile button on them or a header, that works too... the programmer that I threw together for the Atmel chips uses a RST button.

I've only flashed it once, but I agree with the above and not waiting until " you see some stuff AS SOON AS YOU SEE THIS quickly remove the shorting jumper".

And the biggest thing might have been switching to another Eggtimer USB serial cable. The first USB seemed looser on the pins then the one that worked.

Tony
 
Please forgive me for resurrecting this old thread, and for the really long post.

I have flashed Eggfinder LCD receivers many times, and this is the first time I could not get it to take, as described in this thread. After dozens of attempts, I was certain it was not simply me pulling the shorting clip fast enough, or the connection 'bouncing'.

Searching for threads here on TRF of other people that have experienced similar issues, this thread was the closest I found that replicated my issue. (Thanks Tony for a great write-up!)

I went through the list of things that may be different from last time: Which laptop was I using? Did the drivers change? Is something wrong the the LCD receiver? Perhaps my USB cable?

Here's the order of my troubleshooting and what I learned. Hopefully this may help someone else experiencing a similar issue

1) Is my laptop config ok? I am running Windows 10, and have not intentionally updated anything. I opened Device Manager, and could see the Prolific serial adapter running on COM3. My Eggfinder batch file was correctly edited to COM3, and it was not complaining about COM3 not being available.

2) Thinking perhaps my driver was out of date, I went to the official Prolific site, downloaded the latest driver and installed it.
DO NOT DO THIS !!!
Prolific has updated their driver in attempt to root our counterfeit chips, and it essentially disables ALL older prolific chipsets, genuine and counterfeit. It took some time to uninstall that driver and replace it with an older, genuine Prolific driver. (Thank you Cris with your help to validate this.)

3) Once my laptop again recognized the Prolific USB adapter, I tried to flash the LCD again, still no joy.

4) I dug out another known working LCD receiver, and this one also would not flash. Ok, the laptop seems to be ok, and the LCD receiver seem to be OK.

5) Could it be the Prolific USB adapter? I swapped out with another one, and it still did not work.

6) I connected the Prolific cable to a running Eggfinder TX, opened Putty, and had no problem receiving the text stream. I tried this with both cables, and they both worked.

So... laptop is ok, the Prolific adapter is working (both of them), the LCD receiver seems to be ok (both of them), and it still will not 'take' when I attempt to flash it.

Ok, the last time I flashed an LCD was about two months ago, and it went just fine.... Then it occurred to me that connecting the Prolific cable to the Eggfinder TX only validated the Receive side of the connection, because the TX only transmits (well duh, but yeah.) You only connect GND and RCV connections.

I wondered if the Transmit side of the Prolific adapter cable may be faulty.

7) I grabbed yet another Prolific cable, one that I know that I have used before (now the 3rd one to try). I connected it to the LCD and BINGO! It flashed just fine.

8) So, this implies that have two bad Prolific cables. Odds are against that, so I have to prove it out. I take two known working Prolific cables (Yes, I do have a few, but that's a different story). I create a crossover connection between the two Prolific cables and two laptops, and open Putty on each. When I type 'aaaaa' on laptop#1, 'aaaaa' appears on laptop #2. When I type 'bbbbb' on laptop #2, 'bbbbb' appears on laptop #1. So, bottom line, both cables are capable of sending and receiving.

9) Now, to test the suspect cables, I replace one side of my crossover and retest. Sure enough, the suspect cable can receive data, but not transmit. I replicate the test with the other suspect cable, and get the same results. Then finally, back to the 'good' cable, and all works as it should.

So, bottom line after two days of tinkering with trying to flash my LCD, I figured out that I had two bad USB adapters.

If anyone has a suggestion for a simpler way to validate the Prolific cable, without using two PCs, I'd love to hear it. I was looking for some sort of Serial / TTL breakout box, but I didn't quickly find anything I could use to test both the transmit and receive sides of the USB adapter

That's it. I hope someone finds this helpful.
 
Nice write up on debugging Serial adapters to Flash the LCD display.

You should be able to Test a single adapter on a single PC/laptop by connecting the RX and TX pins from the adapter together. Then open your favorite terminal program and connect to the Adapter's Comm port.
What you type will send and get 'looped back' into the receive and be seen. If the terminal program is setup for 'local echo' then you will see each character typed twice. Disconnecting the RX from TX is a test to know when a character is not being 'looped back' through the cable.

Make sense?
 
Keys to success updating the Atmel processors (Classic, TRS, LCD, EVM):

Don’t use the Prolific driver that comes with Windows, it does NOT work properly. Download the one for your platform from:

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41
(If you’re using the USB -Serial “dongle” for Windows 11, follow the driver/connection instructions that come with it.)

Note: Prolific “updated” their driver recently, and it won’t work properly with the PL2303TA cable. Use the OLDER version of the driver… 1.18 or below.

Set your COM port to COM2 through COM4 in Device Manager, we recommend COM2 unless you actually have something on it (which is extremely rare nowadays). If Windows complains, ignore the warning... it's just Windows being Windows.

Don't push the paperclip jumper across the RST pads in too far, it only needs to go in far enough to contact the pads. If you push it in "all the way", it may bounce when it comes out and reset the processor.

Pull out the paperclip IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. This is time-sensitive... but ones you get the rhythm it gets easy.
 
You should be able to Test a single adapter on a single PC/laptop by connecting the RX and TX pins from the adapter together. Then open your favorite terminal program and connect to the Adapter's Comm port.
What you type will send and get 'looped back' into the receive and be seen. If the terminal program is setup for 'local echo' then you will see each character typed twice. Disconnecting the RX from TX is a test to know when a character is not being 'looped back' through the cable.

Make sense?

Yes, makes complete sense. I'm embarrassed that I didn't think of that. It works perfectly. Thanks!
 
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