L3 Build Cinco De Sober Modified Hyperloc 1600

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Evilash

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So my wife said I should just "do that L3 thing" for my 5 year anniversary of sobriety. So with that said I will document the build here and I always appreciate feedback.

This is a LOC Hyperloc 1600 with 2 additional forward fins, since I love that look, so there are additional fin slots 26.5" from the bottom of the booster. The forward fins will be nike smoke(ish). I have kept the 75mm motor mount, I do not need a 98mm motor mount, despite Teddys repeated attempts to get me to change my mind. This will also has a 2nd AV-Bay housing a live FPV feed and a tracker for the nose cone assembly which will have diet mountian dew and some other things that are important to my recovery process. I do not have the space to do a proper glassing so I had Robert at AMW do that for me.

The motor will be an CTI 75MM 5G M1160 Green, 5.5", 140 inches tall, and around 30 pounds unloaded. it will probably be fully wrapped in Mountain Dew colors and include a picture of my dog wearing a sombrero. Anywho, off we go!

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Subscribed! Good Luck!


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Thanks for the happy anniversary messages! If the ES6209 epoxy gets here I will start. Apparently it was lost for 10 days somewhere but it got scanned yesterday, exciting stuff! It was also missing a coupler that Jason from LOC got to me super fast.
 
I add my kudos for your sobriety. How high you expecting to go? Have you done sims to be sure that the forward fins don't push the CP too far forward for that heavy of a motor?
 
Hey,

I actually need it to move the CP forward based on some non-alcholic beverages that I will have in the upper payload bay. It is 3.03 Calipers with 5 pounds in the nose.

I individually weighed each piece tonight and got a more accurate estimate of 26.5 pounds unloaded and 38 loaded. It weighs a little less than I thought but of course that is estimating with the epoxy weight.

I have most everything but when I went to start I realized I do not have the Ubolts from onebadhawk so I do not know where to place the holes in the centering rings to allow the allthread to pass all the way through to the rear CR. My ES6209 finally got here, yay! The 3d prints for the fin aligners are here too.

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Parametric Fin Jig printed locally through 3D Hubs

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So I finally got around to breaking ground on this. Using a little dremel press attachment to do the 1/4" holes in the 5 CRs that will be used on the extended motor tube for the forward fins. All threads will be run from the u bolt attachment points to the back centering ring.

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I will get the middle 3 attached tonight and the fwd and rear CRs are left off to allow internal filets.

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Got a tad farther tonight

Marked off where the CR's will go on the motortube. The motortube was glassed using rough marine fiberglass in order to give the CR's a better hold and a more solid fin can since I will not be doing tip to tip fiberglass.

Put the middle 3 CR's near where they should be and started dry fitting them to make sure the threaded rods will slide through in line, used the fiberglass line to make marks where the CR's need to sit.

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Used measuring cups to make up a small amount of ES6209 and adhered 2 of the CR's. The rough fiberglass is great for allowing epoxy to sit under the CR. Really great tip from Robert Dehate, he also did the glassing. Did the first external filet on the first 2CR's. I did not do the 3rd one since I need to continue to make sure the threaded rods slide back through the rings. So I am working slowly while adjusting the rings for the right position on the tube while continuing to test the rod assembly.

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I aslo got my OBH order from Teddy with all the snazzy stainless hardware and a sweet custom Y-cord. Mark hayes got pretty far on the wrap as well.

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I got some little stuff done and a dry fit.

Epoxied the stiffy couplers inside the regular couplers. There are 3 total, 2 are Avbays and 1 is for the fin can.

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Dry fit of the allthreads through the CR's, Handleman and I have been talking via PM about this and I agree it is added weight but I took a look at that and the assembly is around 1 pound of extra weight with the 4 all threads. The Y will be attached directly to the Ubolts. I know there are lighter methods but I am too far down this road and am confident that the added weight is not going to be a problem for me and the way I fly.

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Full dry fit of the fin can, the parametric fin aligment tools are great.

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Dry fit of the allthreads through the CR's, Handleman and I have been talking via PM about this and I agree it is added weight but I took a look at that and the assembly is around 1 pound of extra weight with the 4 all threads. The Y will be attached directly to the Ubolts. I know there are lighter methods but I am too far down this road and am confident that the added weight is not going to be a problem for me and the way I fly.
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Randy,
I've seen some folks using allthreads to reinforce the CRs, but always wondered about the motivation behind this arrangement.

If the intent is to bind CRs together to spread the force of the engine thrust, then binding each one to the allthreads with nuts on goth sides of each CR would be in order. Alas, most builds I've seen show binding the front and the aft CRs, just like you are showing in your pics.
Also, wouldn't the thrust plate achieve this goal with less weight?

If the intent is to spread the load of the harness shock during deployment, than, again, using allthreads to find two forward-most CRs would do the trick just as well. Extending the allthreads all the way to the rear CR just adds unnecessary weight and moves CG further rearward than would be necessary.

Either one of the above scenarios would be motivated by concerns about the fragility of the CRs.
Your pics suggest that you are relying on 5-7 layer (3/8"?) plywood, which should be plenty sturdy.

Don't get me wrong - I am not knocking your build, and there is nothing wrong with over-building for strength.
Just trying to understand the thinking process behind the decision.

a
 
I think it is overkill, it is not for the thrust portion since it will never go up on more than a baby M.

It is for the recovery stage of the flight to spread the force. I have to run it all the way back since the forward ring is out until I do the internal filets on the forward fins. If I had that many rings on without the forward fins I think your plan would be a good one.

Running them all the way to the back allows you to use the rear fin can as one unit. In other words you would have to yank the entire fin assembly out for it to fail. I think kevlar wrapped around the motor tube into loops would have worked too, but as I said I am too far down the all thread rabbit hole.

Speaking of, I did get the motor tube in. I'll upload pics for my pc later tonight. Thanks for the feedback!



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Another thread I missed..
I'm getting old I guess,, lol..
Smokin build Randy..
Clean, precise work,, beautiful man..
I am doing another set up right now very similar to yours...
He also has a top centering ring thick enough that the legs on a standard U bolt aren't long enough
to reach through and allow nuts and washers both above and below the centering ring..
I have bought special U bolts with extra long legs just for this purpose...
Thank you always Randy,,
You are truly a pleasure...

( That big bad boy is heavy enough that ya shoulda went with a 98 mm mount,, lol.. )

Teddy
 
Teddy, you are never letting that 98MM MMT go :lol:

Got my FPV system working and the custom switch band with shroud is on the way. It is CF infused PLA. The otherr PLA parts are for the cans of mountain dew and whatever my nephews want to put up there.

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Started to attach the fins, the internal filets are ES6209, external will be rocketpoxy. I am kind of disapointed in the fin jigs but it will serve its purpose. Next time I will have them make a stronger connection where the fins are. It is kind of flimsy.

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Lol,,
I can't really tell,,
is that a 98 or did you stick with the 75 ??

Teddy
 
Lol,,
I can't really tell,,
is that a 98 or did you stick with the 75 ??

Teddy

It is a 75MM

On the U-bolts, I think the ones you sent me are just fine for Fg.

I am working on the AVBay and using your Europa set up, how do you get the brackets you sent to stay flush, when I butt the barrel connector to it, it tilts up since it hits the top first.
 
It is a 75MM

On the U-bolts, I think the ones you sent me are just fine for Fg.

I am working on the AVBay and using your Europa set up, how do you get the brackets you sent to stay flush, when I butt the barrel connector to it, it tilts up since it hits the top first.

Yeah,,
According to what you're doing sometimes you can use those and sometimes you can't...
It's according to which way you have the bracket turned..
If you can't just go to Home Cheapo or Lowes or Menards also I think if you're in the midwest
and you can get flat simpler 90 brackets that aren't decorative like the ones I had for just a few bucks..
Be certain to pick up some 6/32" Flat head screws as they'll sit down nicely into the beveled holes on the brackets..

Teddy
 
Progress is slowly occurring. I have a special project at work that has been all consuming.

Got the FPV camera mounted to the custom switch band
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Got all the external filets done with rocketpoxy.

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Built the ground station for the RTX
 
I do not buy a motorcycle because I would not ride responsibly.

I do not put a 98mm mount in here to so I do not get a divorce like would happen if I bought a full M.

Parametric fin jigs are from a 3d design file by someone on here. They are pretty sweet

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Parametric fin jigs are from a 3d design file by someone on here. They are pretty sweet

I think I've seen them around, I'm just confused as to what makes them "Parametric". Do you just input your # of fins, tube diameter, and tube thickness and it generates the necessary set?
 
Got busy and was not doing any work on this, but did some things today

Worked on the upper av-bay wiring. Everything works well, just need to install the switch band on the av bay coupler. FPV works ok, but I also have some other things on 5.8 in the house, ill check it out this weekend.

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Attached the front fins

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I am now wondering if I should just bolt the rail guides on with a lock nut and large washer, or put a block in before I put the front and back CR's in. Any suggestions?
 
Had some time to work on this today. Got the front CR in and the blocks for the rail guides.

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Worked on the AVbay

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Now I need to fix the wiring diagram since I removed the wifi switch

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