Black Aero, EggFinder LCD Case V2

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Hi Kyle,

I received mine today, it arrived undamaged...thanks!



I am wondering if others have opted to solder the BT module wires in place where the header pins are, in an effort to reduce the footprint and allow better clearance (Clarence)? Sorry I had to add the last part as it just popped into my head...darn movies from the 80s.


I wouldn't do that on a version one board as one needs to be able to access those pins in order to upgrade the firmware of the LCD. If version 1.10R is going to be it for firmware then one could consider it but I wouldn't. Kurt
 
Hi Kyle,

I received mine today, it arrived undamaged...thanks!

I am wondering if others have opted to solder the BT module wires in place where the header pins are, in an effort to reduce the footprint and allow better clearance (Clarence)? Sorry I had to add the last part as it just popped into my head...darn movies from the 80s.

You could do that on the Bluetooth side. I just bent the cable at a 90* angle so it fits on the lid.
 
I wouldn't do that on a version one board as one needs to be able to access those pins in order to upgrade the firmware of the LCD. If version 1.10R is going to be it for firmware then one could consider it but I wouldn't. Kurt

You could do that on the Bluetooth side. I just bent the cable at a 90* angle so it fits on the lid.

Kurt and Kyle, thanks for the replies.

My bad, I was obviously not very clear clear in my question. My query was strictly for the BT side, which I have decided to do away with the header and direct solder.

Although I did have a conversation back on Jan 13th and 14th with Cris which was essentially about using both the BT and programing cable without having the need to open up the case, disconnect and swap between them.

For anyone interested, below was Cris' reply.

"Michael:

They both use the same serial ports, so you can't have them connected at the same time. However, if you had a 4PDT switch you could flip back and forth between them. As seldom as you flash the software (it was almost two years from 1.09e to 1.10r), I wouldn't go to the trouble. There is going to be an update for the LCD software coming out in a few weeks (assuming the weather cooperates and I can launch), that's probably going to be the last LCD update for a while unless some bug that I haven't found crops up.

Cris"
 
I want to thank all you for your support! I had a lot more sales than I anticipated resulting in my printing nonstop for a few weeks, which is terrific!

If anyone has any questions or concerns with your purchase, please let me know.
 
Just got mine and put it together, very nice! One question, what size are the screws that hold the case together? I'm thinking #3... I have a couple of screws that just won't thread into the nuts.

Also, you might think about molding a boss onto the case top that the handle fits into, so that it takes any loads rather than the little screws.
 
Just got mine and put it together, very nice! One question, what size are the screws that hold the case together? I'm thinking #3... I have a couple of screws that just won't thread into the nuts.

Also, you might think about molding a boss onto the case top that the handle fits into, so that it takes any loads rather than the little screws.

There are two screw sizes, #3 and #4.

The #4 screws are for the lid to the housing, while the #3 screws are for the handle and the belt clip.
 
Quick tip on the case.

I found that the nuts that hold the handles on would slip out when I removed the handle, that is if I was not paying attention. When this happens you have to open up the case, find the nut, slide it back in the slot, then fiddle around with the GPS and BT wires to button up the back again. To prevent this from happening I screwed the handle back on, then put a small dab of thick low strength 30 min epoxy over the openings that the nuts slide into, placed it face down to allow the epoxy to slide in the hole, and let dry.

For me this worked without issue. However I could see it being a problem if the epoxy that was used was a higher strength and got on the threads, so do this at your own risk. Alternatively you could use a silicone and work it in the hole or any number of adhesives, even some drops of wax would probably do the job.

Regardless of how you do it, you may find it necessary to lock those nuts in place.

Overall though I have to say this case is miles ahead of V1, when it comes to the quality of printing, strength, design etc. It really is superior!
 
file 3.jpg

Anyone else have an issue with the main board being too big? Hmm, it's never easy. I sent a message, we will see what he says.

Thanks
 
View attachment 338457

Anyone else have an issue with the main board being too big? Hmm, it's never easy. I sent a message, we will see what he says.

Thanks

As we are discussing in email, it appears Eggfinder released a new board that may be slightly oversized for the mount to the handle.

I will be working with Roy to ensure we get him sorted out, then once that is completed. I want to ensure everyone else who purchased a case is good to go.
 
The new board fits fine, it's a little tight though. Next run you might want to make it about 1mm larger.
 
I ran into this last night, I just did a little sanding on top of the nut capture areas. It was a little uneven and knocking that down with a little 400 grit took care of the problem. As Cris said , a little tight but can be fixed, either way.
 
I got mine yesterday. Wow this is a great item! The build was smooth. Can’t wait to try it out!
 
Just to put the battery fitment issue one step further, I was able to fit a 2200 mAh 2S battery from Gens Ace into the handle with no problems. The 34mm width and 20mm thickness seem to be the max dimensions that fit. This battery is 87mm tall but the handle could hold something closer to 100mm. Last picture shows the battery raised with a shipping peanut placed under the battery so it won't move up and down.
 

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