Those who use airbrush to paint what brand of paint do you use?

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I’m going to jump into this thread with another question: How about primer? Is there an airbrush or HVLP equivalent to Rusto filler/sandable primer?


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That sounds good, but I know absolutely nothing about mixing and spraying paint. What is hardener and reducer. What do they do, how do they work, how do you decide how much to use? I would guess hardener changes the drying time of the paint. What does reducer do? reduces what?

Sorry for the questions, but I've had a spray gun for a while and only used it for mold release, never paint.

The paint alone wont dry without a hardener. It might in 10 years after turning into goo for so long, but the hardener is what basically activates the paint. There are two kinds though. One is called "wet look" and that's for a super glossy finish. The other won't be glossy. Just a hardener. The reducer is because the paint is raw (so to speak) and needs to be thinned down or it will be too thick to spray. The mix ratios I mentioned earlier are for an airbrush and may not be the right mix for other types of sprayers. Consult the paint guy at NAPA and he should point you in the right direction. My guy got me the right reducer to use but failed to tell me about the different hardeners. I found that out the hard way. Also, mix what you know you can use up that day. That stuff will start to set up overnight even if tightly sealed.
 
I’m going to jump into this thread with another question: How about primer? Is there an airbrush or HVLP equivalent to Rusto filler/sandable primer?


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I was thinking this same thing. I understand that for an airbrush the nozzles are pretty much too small for a primer. my original plan was to use Krylon primer that I always have used and use my airbrush to spray Creatix on top. Does anybody do this?
Or should I buy one of the El Cheapo Harbor Freight detail HVLP guns for like $30?
 
Absolutely. I have used many aerosol primers (mostly Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch because I love the way it sands) underneath the Createx airbrush paint. Createx also makes a Sealer White and Sealer Dark which are basically primers that I have used between the primer and Auto Air Pearl paints.
 
The paint alone wont dry without a hardener. It might in 10 years after turning into goo for so long, but the hardener is what basically activates the paint. There are two kinds though. One is called "wet look" and that's for a super glossy finish. The other won't be glossy. Just a hardener. The reducer is because the paint is raw (so to speak) and needs to be thinned down or it will be too thick to spray. The mix ratios I mentioned earlier are for an airbrush and may not be the right mix for other types of sprayers. Consult the paint guy at NAPA and he should point you in the right direction. My guy got me the right reducer to use but failed to tell me about the different hardeners. I found that out the hard way. Also, mix what you know you can use up that day. That stuff will start to set up overnight even if tightly sealed.

Thanks so much for the explanation. I had never heard that before but it now makes so much sense. So the paint is kind of like epoxy. It won't harden without the hardener, but it will also harden if it's sealed up because it's a chemical thing...
The reducer is just a thinner to make it spray right. Too much and it will be a mist that doesn't get to the surface, too little and it will clog the gun!

i can't expect anyone to tell me exactly how much of each to use, but now that i know what they do, I can play around and figure it out!

Thanks.....
 
I am pretty excited for the weather to get warmer here so I can paint. I have been sticking up on the Createx colors every time I pass the Hobby Lobby. And just got an El cheapo HVLP from harbor freight. I’m pretty much set to paint a few rockets.
 
Thanks so much for the explanation. I had never heard that before but it now makes so much sense. So the paint is kind of like epoxy. It won't harden without the hardener, but it will also harden if it's sealed up because it's a chemical thing...
The reducer is just a thinner to make it spray right. Too much and it will be a mist that doesn't get to the surface, too little and it will clog the gun!

i can't expect anyone to tell me exactly how much of each to use, but now that i know what they do, I can play around and figure it out!

Thanks.....

Rattle cans waste a lot of paint where an airbrush is minimal. I can get quite a lot of mileage out of those auto paints. In a nutshell, I could paint a 2.6 DX-3 with 3-4 oz of auto paint VS what it would take to use a rattle can. Plus I get a million options for colors.
 
Getting in a little late here, but I like Tamiya Acrylics through an airbrush. Because they are water/alcohol based, the fumes are not too bad and can be used indoors - just use a large cardboard box for a paint booth with a trash bag taped over the front to keep dust out. Tamiya Acrylics go on very smooth and even, since acrylics tend to be self-leveling. Cleanup is a snap - just flush water through the brush (windshield washer fluid is even better, because it is water, alcohol and a bit of detergent). I have gotten much better results with a really cheap airbrush (if you are just using the airbrush in place of rattle cans and are just using it to apply color without any special effects, a cheap external mix Badger is sufficient) than with rattle cans. I would suggest using a compressor rather than the cans - the can will chill VERY quickly and the pressure will drop drastically when it does. A compressor avoids that problem, but cheaper compressors can "pulse' when they spray giving uneven results.
 
I was able to pick up a $380 Artograph spray booth on Craigslist for only $75. Perfect for indoor painting. If you look around, they are out there.
 
I have gotten much better results with a really cheap airbrush (if you are just using the airbrush in place of rattle cans and are just using it to apply color without any special effects, a cheap external mix Badger is sufficient) than with rattle cans. I would suggest using a compressor rather than the cans - the can will chill VERY quickly and the pressure will drop drastically when it does. A compressor avoids that problem, but cheaper compressors can "pulse' when they spray giving uneven results.

Got my Badger on a clearance sale at Michaels and my pump from Horror Freight. Both have performed excellent in the past 4-5 years I've had em.

DSCF2807.jpg
 
I too like the Createx paint lines. Also have had good results with Testor's Model Master's in the past as well. For those new to airbrushing this is a great cleaning guide out of a book that I believe is called "PAINTING AND FINISHING by the folks at Fine Scale Modler

"Airbrush Cleaning from PAINTING AND FINISHING FSM BW.JPG

I have it in pdf but apparently I can't upload that
 
I always see comments in these types of threads asking about paint booths, or people saying that they can't wait for it to warm up so they can get outside to paint. I paint in my garage year round using this high-tech (cheap) setup:

IMAG00284turned.jpg
Two heavy duty moving boxes - 18" x 18" x 24" - inverted. A couple rivets in the side and back and I can slide the box up and down to change size of the working environment.
I've used these same boxes for three years now - the more you use it, the stronger the boxes get. (and when it's time to move you don't feel bad tossing out your $3 boxes and buying new ones later)

There's a 6" duct starting collar at the top to which I have 6" ducting that runs to a blower.
I tape a furnace filter to the inside top box to help filter paint particulates. I order 12 packs of filters pretty cheaply from Lowes or HomeDepot.

IMAG00289.jpg
The blower is rated for 650cfm and is bolted to my garage wall and vents outside. (In my last house it vented through a window from my basement workroom) It's a good industrial grade blower that I picked on Ebay a few years ago; it had a damaged flange, which didn't matter to me, so I got it cheap-ish (<$100).
The ducting going to the paint booth slips off the top collar of the booth and can be positioned above my workbench to vent epoxy fumes and fiberglass/wood dust when I'm working.
This blower is one of the best investments I made in this hobby.

I control the cfm on this blower through a Variac AC voltage regulator - you don't always want it to suck full strength
Variac AC regulator.jpg


I've also seen similar setups using those portable wardrobes with the plastic zippered covers.

Hope this is helpful.

-brant
 
<snip> I paint in my garage year round using this high-tech (cheap) setup:<snip>

That's a nifty little paint booth! But it only solves the ventilation part of the problem for winter painting. My garage is not heated and poorly insulated, so when it's 15F-20F outside as it has been lately, the garage might be barely above freezing. We're hoping to buy a new house in the next year, so I'm not going to invest in any improvements until after I move.
 
That's a nifty little paint booth! But it only solves the ventilation part of the problem for winter painting. My garage is not heated and poorly insulated, so when it's 15F-20F outside as it has been lately, the garage might be barely above freezing. We're hoping to buy a new house in the next year, so I'm not going to invest in any improvements until after I move.

It's not fun working in a cold garage. My last garage (in Massachusetts) wasn't finished or insulated so in the winter I did most of my light work in the basement (including painting). But sometimes I needed to cut/sand fiberglass or wood and needed to do that in the garage. I used one of those forced air propane heaters and it worked really well for making it comfortable work space. I bought one of these.
propane heater.jpg
They're rated for safe use in unfinished spaces where there's drafts. I still installed a CO detector at the back of my garage, but never had an issue with it. They heat up the space super fast.
 
I always see comments in these types of threads asking about paint booths, or people saying that they can't wait for it to warm up so they can get outside to paint. I paint in my garage year round using this high-tech (cheap) setup:

View attachment 338412
Two heavy duty moving boxes - 18" x 18" x 24" - inverted. A couple rivets in the side and back and I can slide the box up and down to change size of the working environment.
I've used these same boxes for three years now - the more you use it, the stronger the boxes get. (and when it's time to move you don't feel bad tossing out your $3 boxes and buying new ones later)

There's a 6" duct starting collar at the top to which I have 6" ducting that runs to a blower.
I tape a furnace filter to the inside top box to help filter paint particulates. I order 12 packs of filters pretty cheaply from Lowes or HomeDepot.

View attachment 338413
The blower is rated for 650cfm and is bolted to my garage wall and vents outside. (In my last house it vented through a window from my basement workroom) It's a good industrial grade blower that I picked on Ebay a few years ago; it had a damaged flange, which didn't matter to me, so I got it cheap-ish (<$100).
The ducting going to the paint booth slips off the top collar of the booth and can be positioned above my workbench to vent epoxy fumes and fiberglass/wood dust when I'm working.
This blower is one of the best investments I made in this hobby.

I control the cfm on this blower through a Variac AC voltage regulator - you don't always want it to suck full strength
View attachment 338411


I've also seen similar setups using those portable wardrobes with the plastic zippered covers.

Hope this is helpful.

-brant

Doyou use automotive paint? If so what type do you like best? And if one wanted avery durable paint what do you recommend?
 
Doyou use automotive paint? If so what type do you like best? And if one wanted avery durable paint what do you recommend?

I don't use automotive paints. I know there are a few builders here that use them and really like them. I just haven't tried them yet. I do most of my paintings with Createx Colors - mostly Wicked Colors and Auto Air because they're water based and easy clean-up. When I'm done painting I clear coat them with an automotive grade clear coat from Duplicolor or Rustoleum.
 
I don't use automotive paints. I know there are a few builders here that use them and really like them. I just haven't tried them yet. I do most of my paintings with Createx Colors - mostly Wicked Colors and Auto Air because they're water based and easy clean-up...

Actually, Auto Air is an automotive paint (hence the name).
 
Actually, Auto Air is an automotive paint (hence the name).

Auto Air is automotive paint only in name because that's the market Createx is targeting. It's a soft, water-based paint that's good for airbrushing details on just about anything including cars. I use it (regardless of the name) because they have great colors that look like automotive paints and they're easy to clean up. No respectable body shop would ever use it to actually paint a car (unless they're doing detailed airbrushing) - most real automotive paints require hardeners or catalysts to achieve a hard, durable finish. Which is why I always overcoat these Createx paints with an enamel clear coat - these paints would scrape off with a fingernail if I didn't.

That said, there are flyers on this forum that use real automotive paints because it provides that hard, durable finish to their rocket. It looks really good. I've thought about trying it sometime, but I really like the easy water clean-up of the paints I use now - and applying the hard clear coat afterwards is just one extra step.
 
real automotive paints require hardeners or catalysts to achieve a hard, durable finish.

That said, there are flyers on this forum that use real automotive paints because it provides that hard, durable finish to their rocket. It looks really good. I've thought about trying it sometime, but I really like the easy water clean-up of the paints I use now - and applying the hard clear coat afterwards is just one extra step.

There are two ways you can go with the use of auto paints. Some require a clear coat for a final finish. I use the acrylic enamels. Hardener and reducer are all mixed together with the paint and it's a 1 step painting procedure. The hardener is available in 2 forms. One is simply a hardener and the other is a "wet look". The wet look will give you that shiny finish without having to apply it later. I'm not sure how many colors are available in this water based paint you use, but automotive paints have tons of colors and shades, metallic, metal flake, neon and so on. There are other choices in colors that can't use the wet look hardener and require a gloss finish afterward. Sure, it's not as easy to clean up, but I'm not limited to just a dozen or so colors either.
 
It's not fun working in a cold garage. My last garage (in Massachusetts) wasn't finished or insulated so in the winter I did most of my light work in the basement (including painting). But sometimes I needed to cut/sand fiberglass or wood and needed to do that in the garage. I used one of those forced air propane heaters and it worked really well for making it comfortable work space. I bought one of these.
View attachment 338504
They're rated for safe use in unfinished spaces where there's drafts. I still installed a CO detector at the back of my garage, but never had an issue with it. They heat up the space super fast.

They are great for heating up large spaces, just watch the humidity. IIRC we had humidity issues when using them in houses to keep them warm during drywall, something about the burning of propane letting off water vapor. We normally don't have humidity issues in Eastern Washington, it may also have been in part due to the airtight nature of new home construction, we could use kerosene or diesel heaters fine with no issues (they look and function just like the propane blow heaters).
 
There are two ways you can go with the use of auto paints. Some require a clear coat for a final finish. I use the acrylic enamels. Hardener and reducer are all mixed together with the paint and it's a 1 step painting procedure. The hardener is available in 2 forms. One is simply a hardener and the other is a "wet look". The wet look will give you that shiny finish without having to apply it later. I'm not sure how many colors are available in this water based paint you use, but automotive paints have tons of colors and shades, metallic, metal flake, neon and so on. There are other choices in colors that can't use the wet look hardener and require a gloss finish afterward. Sure, it's not as easy to clean up, but I'm not limited to just a dozen or so colors either.

From what little I know there are more than 300 or so different colors readily available from Createx in all their lines. there is a good mix of colors, neon/fluorescent, pearl, candy colors, metallic and transparent colors are all available. they don't however seem to have any military colors like OD green, grays or desert tans. They seem more geared toward the brilliant colors. edited to change the number of colors after checking available colors, they also have a bunch of additives, bases reducers and clears.
 
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From what little I know there are more than 100 or so different colors readily available from Creatix. there is a good mix of colors, neon/fluorescent, pearl, candy colors, transparent colors are all available. they don't however seem to have any military colors like OD green, grays or desert tans. They seem more geared toward the brilliant colors.

I suppose I should give those a try sometime. Who has the best deal on Creatix that you know of?
 
I edited my post to reflect updated info. I am still new to using them haven't actually used them yet but I have been slowly stockpiling them all winter with hopes to paint a bunch when spring comes. so far I have been buying from Hobby Lobby 2oz bottles one at a time. Also I made a purchase from Dick Blick Art Supplies has way more colors available than Hobby Lobby https://www.dickblick.com/brands/createx-colors/
 
I have used Ceatex Auto Air and Ceatex Airbrush paints. They are both great for rockets and spraying indoors with easy cleanup. I agree with the post above that Hobby Lobby is a decent source. And if you get one bottle at a time you can use their 40% off coupon. Michaels used to sell it but they changed to a different brand a few years ago. There large also online distributors that you can get it from.
 
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