Questions on sizes

What length shear pins in each size do you prefer? White or black?

I normally buy black just because easier to see.
Also I prefer either 2-56x1/2" or 2-56x3/8"
Same for 4-40, either 1/2" or 3/8"
Phillips head if possible!

I don't think length really matters.. as long as you have 2-1/2 threads stick out past the last material, anything more is just 'extra wrist turning / movements'..

dr wogz said:

I don't think length really matters.. as long as you have 2-1/2 threads stick out past the last material, anything more is just 'extra wrist turning / movements'..

Click to expand...

I personally like enough to be able to grab the back and pull it out with...ive been tapping the hole to fit lately.

I like white because the black screws can be confused with black metal HW.
One would think the tactile clues would mitigate this risk, but I know of one instance where nylon was installed instead of steel due to look and the results were not pretty......

2-256 white 1/4 or 3/8's

4-40 black 3/8 or 1/2

Only reason for different color...ease of locating which is which, in range box.

Length is not an issue , just so they are "long enough" ...too long 3/4-1 inch. I just clip shorter with dikes.

tbonerocketeer said:

I personally like enough to be able to grab the back and pull it out with...ive been tapping the hole to fit lately.

Click to expand...

You don't use a shear pin insertion tool??

I've been getting longer pins because, when using the shear pin insertion tool, you can clip the pin to the length you want and then just tap it in.

Jim

JimJarvis50 said:

You don't use a shear pin insertion tool??

I've been getting longer pins because, when using the shear pin insertion tool, you can clip the pin to the length you want and then just tap it in.

Jim

Click to expand...

I use the length to pull the sheared part back out from inside.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Rocketry Forum mobile app

The shear pins I use I bought from Apogee, they're #2-56 and black, not sure what length. Also bought their drill & tap set. I make the outer airframe hole the right size and tapped for the screws, and oversize (redrill) the inner coupler hole such that the screw won't grab. That way afterwards I can just unscrew the head to get the pin out of the outer airframe, and the inner part is generally rattling around the nosecone and I can remove it when I open the nose to unpower my Eggfinder (or in the electronics bay if that's where the shear pin went, like in a HED rocket).

woferry said:

. . . and the inner part is generally rattling around the nosecone and I can remove it when I open the nose to unpower my Eggfinder . . .

Click to expand...

I have no way to get the sheared ends out of the nose of my Frenzy XL. 22 flights x 3 shear pins = 66 little nylon bits rattling around in there.

Nathan said:

I have no way to get the sheared ends out of the nose of my Frenzy XL. 22 flights x 3 shear pins = 66 little nylon bits rattling around in there.

Click to expand...

Just think of it as gradually increasing your stability margin. You could drill a small hole in the bulkhead and shake them out.

black 2-56 1/2" , I have tap and drill set from apogee