AMW Slightly Bigger Daddy.. slow winter build thread

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Which NASA papers?

Regards, Rich
NAR 59673, L2

Oop, didn't catch this comment.

I'll get back to you on that one. I stumbled across them after clicking on a reference link in a different thread some time ago (months to a year).
Unfortunately, that was on a different program with a different computer, so not even browser history is helpful.
 
Here are my weights:
AMW Bigger Daddy
Body Tube 360g
Nose Cone 385g
Nose cone aluminum tip 33g
Nose Cone Coupler Bulkhead 34g
Nose Cone Coupler 179g
54mm Motor Mount 108g
Fins (x4) 309g TOTAL
Centering Rings (x2) 25g
Total dry weight by scale 1458g

I posted a very accurate RockSim file on Rocket Reviews.
 
Progress?

Do I have to start posting pictures of mine to shame you into getting on it? [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
So glad you started a thread on the build. There were no instructions on this model nor a sim file as I'm told it's a new model. I was going to start a thread on my build. I also created a sim file which I think is very accurate on dimensions and weights for mine but I used the override function. Here is my file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hf130x481hip7uz/AMW Bigger Daddy from Toby.rkt?dl=0. And here are all of the weights of my components in grams to compare to yours. They are all pretty close. Seems irrelevant if you are also adding 1.5 pounds of nose weight!

AMW Bigger Daddy
Body Tube 360g
Nose Cone 385g
Nose cone aluminum tip 33g
Nose Cone Coupler Bulkhead 34g
Nose Cone Coupler 179g
54mm Motor Mount 108g
Fins (x4) 309g TOTAL
Centering Rings (x2) 25g each
Total dry weight 1458g (3.21 pounds)

I'll follow your thread and may start my own. I don't want to hijack yours. Just trying to throw some comparative info in if it helps.
I'm planning to launch mine on a 38mm H123 with an adapter for my level 1 cert on the first Saturday of February 2018. It sims to 1250 feet which I think is low enough to launch on a single parachute, although I do have a Jolly Logic chute release. On an I motor it sims to around 2500 feet. I would very much like to see yours go mach 1. Please continue to post.

Are your centering rings cut to the correct size?

Both Salvage-1's CRs and mine were cut with a 54mm ID - works great as a thrust plate, but not as a centering ring...

He opened them up to fit the MMT, I cut more rings.

IMG_3767.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Dan.. and any others.. feel free to post your builds on here!

Mine will take a while to get started :)
 
Are your centering rings cut to the correct size?

Both Salvage-1's CRs and mine were cut with a 54mm ID - works great as a thrust plate, but not as a centering ring...

He opened them up to fit the MMT, I cut more rings.

View attachment 335157


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Mine were the same way, along with the fin slots being too narrow. Fixed that with a popsicle stick wrapped in 120 grit.
Will work on the CR's after I get a drum sander for my drill press
 
Fins slots have been narrow on all of the fiberglass kits I've purchased.

I haven't checked the centering rings yet but I will. I'll just sand them if needed.

Did you remove the end of the slot so you could build the fins and motor mount, then slide it in?
 
Fins slots have been narrow on all of the fiberglass kits I've purchased.

I haven't checked the centering rings yet but I will. I'll just sand them if needed.

Did you remove the end of the slot so you could build the fins and motor mount, then slide it in?

IMG_1515811598.951771.jpg

I did extend the slots. I first opened the slots up with folded sandpaper and then cut them out the back. I do this with almost all my rockets, I like to be able to focus on the internal fillets.

The centering rings could have been sanded open, but they aren't just tight, they are sized to match the ID of the tube. I used light plywood (1/4" aft and 1/8" forward) to makes stepped centering rings. I also added a .093" G10 ring at the front of the fin tabs.



Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
I've made a fair bit of progress on the Bigger Daddy. The electronics bay is shortened to allow for longer motors and more recovery gear.

It utilizes two forged eye bolts and a threaded coupling to connect the two halves of the bay.

There is a 1" piece of tubing inside (the switch band is a triple thickness) into which the stepped aft bulkplate fits. The forward bulk plate is also stepped.

The sled is attached to the forward plate and fits into a pocket on the aft plate.

On the backside of the sled is a battery box made for on 1/8" G10 scraps. There is also a Binder Design screw switch potted in a CPVC standoff. An RRC2+ will be mounted on the he opposite side.

Well nuts seal the pass-through holes. The charge cups are 1/2" PVC plugs glued into couplings. This makes for a double walled charge cup plus extra room to stuff in dog barf.

IMG_3928.jpg

IMG_3929.jpg

IMG_3930.jpg

IMG_3931.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
One disadvantage of a single connection (rather than double all-thread) is the possibility of it twisting open due to torque from a spinning descent.

The aft eyebolt is tightened with a lock nut. To prevent the forward eyebolt from backing out I installed a #6 screw/T-nut where it interferes with the eyebolt. The bay can be assembled/disassembled easily without tools.

By the way, I accidentally added the flowers to the photo while sending it to Salvage-1. [emoji6]

IMG_3926.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Last edited:
No-Touch Fillets

I started In on the external fillets today.

For two fillets I mixed up 10mL of Aeropoxy structural adhesive. To this I added a teaspoon of milled glass fiber and 1/8 teaspoon of black mica pigment.

This went into a syringe and a bit less than 5mL was applied as a bead to each side. I prepared the surface by sanding and then wiping down with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I also like to warm the surface with a heat gun prior to applying the epoxy.

I then use the heat gun to warm the epoxy, liquefying and leveling it. I will heat it a couple more times to insure a good cure.

The only spot I touch with this method is at the aft end of the fin root, where a drip tends to form. This is easily wiped off with a folded paper towel.

IMG_3956.jpg

IMG_3957.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
IMG_3970.jpg

I made half pound and one pound nose weights, although I don't know whether I really need them...
 
Love the retainer. I enjoy seeing something different than the norm from time to time.


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Slow Winter Build is a good name for my "Slightly Bigger Daddy" (4.2% upscale). It's been sitting on the build pile for two years waiting for flight electronics. There's only 8mm between the motor tube and body tube and the motor goes way up into the nose cone. This leaves little for the shock cord, x-form chute and RF tracker let alone bulky electronics and batteries. I'm trying my hand at custom electronics that will fit between the fins. I want the first flight to be on the four grain, 54mm CTI K2045 VMax. The sims are outrageous.
Good luck with your project I hope it goes faster than mine.

Cjzf4bN.jpg
 
IMG_1519514834.158941.jpg

I used some 30 minute BSI epoxy thickened with micro balloons to smooth out the edges of the Aeropoxy/milled glass fillets.
 
I smeared some Bondo glazing putty on the fillets in a final effort to smooth the fillets. Tomorrow I will sand most of it off...

IMG_4086.jpg

I picked up a couple of RRC2+ altimeters, one of which I mounted in the bay. The other side holds a battery box and a Binder Design screw switch.

IMG_4087.jpg

IMG_4088.jpg
 
IMG_1520725589.555459.jpg

I put a first coat of primer on today. The fillets aren't perfect by any means, but it should look okay with a matte final coat.
 
Shame to cover up all of that nice black fiberglass.

I sort of agree...

However, I am going with a white rocket to contrast Rob's black one in a drag race. Also, some club members mentioned the condition of painted versus unpainted fiberglass rockets that spend time in the desert, which makes me think that it is for the best.

One surprise is how many pinholes (actually tiny elongated gaps from the winding process) there are in the airframe. It is going to take quite a bit primer to get things smooth.
 
One disadvantage of a single connection (rather than double all-thread) is the possibility of it twisting open due to torque from a spinning descent.

The aft eyebolt is tightened with a lock nut. To prevent the forward eyebolt from backing out I installed a #6 screw/T-nut where it interferes with the eyebolt. The bay can be assembled/disassembled easily without tools.

By the way, I accidentally added the flowers to the photo while sending it to Salvage-1. [emoji6]

View attachment 337265


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum


A 1500lb swivel could help
 
Slow Winter Build is a good name for my "Slightly Bigger Daddy" (4.2% upscale). It's been sitting on the build pile for two years waiting for flight electronics. There's only 8mm between the motor tube and body tube and the motor goes way up into the nose cone. This leaves little for the shock cord, x-form chute and RF tracker let alone bulky electronics and batteries. I'm trying my hand at custom electronics that will fit between the fins. I want the first flight to be on the four grain, 54mm CTI K2045 VMax. The sims are outrageous.
Good luck with your project I hope it goes faster than mine.

Cjzf4bN.jpg


Did you fly it yet on the VMAX?
 
Did you fly it yet on the VMAX?
Not yet, but it has jumped off the waiting to build pile to the work bench. A flight in 2019 at LDRS looks possible. The power options have been sorted out and the ejection timer has been test fitted. The "still to do list" includes fitting a dissected Jolly Logic Altimeter Two altimeter, building and fitting the g switch activated alarm circuit, simulations and paint. Thanks for your interest. G
 
Back
Top