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Thread: paint

  1. #1
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    paint

    I am trying to simulate the bare metal look on this payload section.
    Metallic Silver looks to shiny . Maybe a "brushed" silver or nickel ?

    Any suggestions ?

    Thanks !

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  2. #2
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    Maybe a satin gray?

    NAR 91107, Level 2

    I really, really hate bugs.

  3. #3
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    you can get some labels that are a silver Mylar . Or better yet, a thin aluminum foil (about 0.003"), usually brushed. You'll have to dig for it though, and find a large print house that does those kind of labels, and is willing to sell you a small piece..

    https://www.google.ca/search?safe=st...&bih=964&dpr=1
    -paul

    NAR# 101258 - L1
    www.CRMRC.org
    I don't know the same things you don't know..

  4. #4
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    nice suggestion but I will need to apply decals over it and seal with a clear coat

  5. #5
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    I did something similar once... I used a shiny 'chrome' decal from Mark at Stickershock, and then top-coated it with matte clear.

    One important lesson though: wear cotton gloves when handling the chrome decal, or at least wipe it down REALLY well before clear coating. It raised latent fingerprints.


    -Bill Riley

    TRA: 12294
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    A good rule for rocket experimenters to follow is this: always assume that it will explode.
    — Astronautics, issue 38, October 1937.


  6. #6
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    re

    Bill
    If you are referring to the chrome decal where the fold out fins then that looks like a great possibility
    I like
    I could place the decal on top of the clear matte coat
    The decal sheet will have access doors and bolt patterns on it
    Nice job !!

    Bobby

  7. #7
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    Yes, I wanted that section to look like aluminum. It’s really just Blue Tube. If you look closely, the screws in that section are just decals.

    -Bill Riley

    TRA: 12294
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    A good rule for rocket experimenters to follow is this: always assume that it will explode.
    — Astronautics, issue 38, October 1937.


  8. #8
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    I've also wrapped tube and nose cone sections with aluminum foil tape, the kind you buy at Home Depot. It looks like aluminum because it is. Though I haven't tried decaling over it, I have clear coated with good results. Given that it is aluminum, you can either brush or polish it as required.
    Rick
    URRG, MARS
    Tripoli #15706
    http://www.rocketreviews.com/rick-barness-page.html

    There is a theory that states that if anyone figures out why the universe is for or why it is here, it will suddenly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarrely inexplicable.
    There is another theory that says this may have already happened...



  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXPjawa View Post
    I've also wrapped tube and nose cone sections with aluminum foil tape, the kind you buy at Home Depot. It looks like aluminum because it is. Though I haven't tried decaling over it, I have clear coated with good results. Given that it is aluminum, you can either brush or polish it as required.
    I don't see why that shouldn't work. Main caveat would be the one I always give regarding foil tape: it takes a great deal of care to apply smoothly.

  10. #10
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    Testors makes a metallic spray line. It comes in various shades--aluminum, titanium, stainless steel and so on. I used it on my 104. You can buff it to the sheen you need. Use only the clear made for it!!!!----Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	333082 not sure why they are upside down , but you get the point.
    Anyboby see that caboose go by----I lost my train of thought again! There's leaders and managers, those who can't lead just manage

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil_w View Post
    I don't see why that shouldn't work. Main caveat would be the one I always give regarding foil tape: it takes a great deal of care to apply smoothly.
    It's not too bad to work with, really. A bit like larger decal wraps. I've found that you can actually smooth it reasonably well as you apply it; start from the center and work it outward with your thumbs to smooth it as you go. It'll lay down pretty well, though that might vary with different tapes. I've been toying with wrapping an entire rocket with it to make it look authentic. It would really only be an extension of what I did on my MAC Scorpion (except maybe the ogive nose cone):

    Rick
    URRG, MARS
    Tripoli #15706
    http://www.rocketreviews.com/rick-barness-page.html

    There is a theory that states that if anyone figures out why the universe is for or why it is here, it will suddenly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarrely inexplicable.
    There is another theory that says this may have already happened...



  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXPjawa View Post
    I've also wrapped tube and nose cone sections with aluminum foil tape, the kind you buy at Home Depot. It looks like aluminum because it is. Though I haven't tried decaling over it, I have clear coated with good results. Given that it is aluminum, you can either brush or polish it as required.
    ^ This! Hit it with some really fine steel wool and you can get some really cool results. I'd recommend practicing on scraps first.
    Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some).


    NAR L1 Cert flight: Sheridan, Oregon, USA. Sept. 19, 2015. Flew Deep Space OFFl on an I357T-14A Blue Thunder

  13. #13
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    silver / metal paint, then dry brush with black for brush strokes / #4 finish..

    https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...sh&FORM=HDRSC2
    -paul

    NAR# 101258 - L1
    www.CRMRC.org
    I don't know the same things you don't know..

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worsaer View Post
    I did something similar once... I used a shiny 'chrome' decal from Mark at Stickershock, and then top-coated it with matte clear.

    One important lesson though: wear cotton gloves when handling the chrome decal, or at least wipe it down REALLY well before clear coating. It raised latent fingerprints.


    Beautiful job, nicely done!
    NAR# 103899

    "As I hurtled through space, one thought kept crossing my mind—every part of this rocket was supplied by the lowest bidder".
    — John Glenn, Jr.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXPjawa View Post
    It's not too bad to work with, really. A bit like larger decal wraps. I've found that you can actually smooth it reasonably well as you apply it; start from the center and work it outward with your thumbs to smooth it as you go. It'll lay down pretty well, though that might vary with different tapes. I've been toying with wrapping an entire rocket with it to make it look authentic. It would really only be an extension of what I did on my MAC Scorpion (except maybe the ogive nose cone):

    Rick, this is one of the coolest finishes I’ve seen on this forum. How did you get the tape to lay so flat on the fin can and fillets?


    Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
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  16. #16
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    Another option.....

    http://www.flitemetal.com/

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Titan II View Post
    Another option.....

    http://www.flitemetal.com/
    This is very interesting - will keep it in mind for future projects.

    -Bill Riley

    TRA: 12294
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    A good rule for rocket experimenters to follow is this: always assume that it will explode.
    — Astronautics, issue 38, October 1937.


  18. #18
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    I have used flitemetal and it is worth a try.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDB View Post
    Rick, this is one of the coolest finishes I’ve seen on this forum. How did you get the tape to lay so flat on the fin can and fillets?


    Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
    Thanks. It looks even better now, with a urethane clearcoat over the whole thing.

    It isn't quite as perfect as the photo makes it look, but its part luck and part technique I think. There are four strips of foil tape that are run axially between the fins, and then a wrap band at the top of the fin can (and another below the cone). The luck part was width of the tape was just slightly wider than the arc length between fins. If applied centered, then it goes partly up onto the fillets. In fact, the tape was just wide enough for the pieces to just touch aft of the fins. So, happy coincidence there. The technique part was as I described before, start with the tape centered and apply the center of the tape first. Then work it forward and back, the to the sides, with your thumbs. While aluminum tape does wrinkle, it is also quite malleable. It can be worked smooth if you're careful and take your time. But it comes from plying it a little at a time, and working from the center out tends to mitigate wrinkling. The tricky part is really making sure you start with the tape aligned the way you want it. I have been able to pull it back up and re-apply it, and smooth it out again. It probably more forgiving than you think.

    The bands were applied as if they were wrap decals, so there was trial and error in getting them pulled around straight. I've found some success in using a masking tape wrap as a guide. But as with the other segments, the key seems to me to work from the center of the decal out, pushing it smooth toward the edges.
    Rick
    URRG, MARS
    Tripoli #15706
    http://www.rocketreviews.com/rick-barness-page.html

    There is a theory that states that if anyone figures out why the universe is for or why it is here, it will suddenly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarrely inexplicable.
    There is another theory that says this may have already happened...



  20. #20
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    Both Monocoat and bare metal foil make adhesive backed mylar and actual bare metal in Chrome finish. it is possible to sometime find Bare Metal foil in satin brushed aluminum (getting harder to find). Either can be applied, carefully wiped down and satin clear coated to obtain a "bare metal look".

    Keep em Flyin Micronzied
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    Mrcluster/Micromeister
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