Madcow Adventurer 2.2"

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Well at least one of these has made it's way down under. Mine came in a sealed bag with instructions and seems to have everything in it. Bag was packaged really well, kudos to Madcow. My only regret is not buying more in the sale!

Weighed parts and did a quick open rocket file. Now to work out if I build 100% stock or make a few mods...

View attachment Madcow_Adventurer2.ork
 
I was inspecting the contents of my kit today... And I realized that the fin tabs were not correct. After some investigation, it is apparent that the fins were designed for a 29mm motor mount, whereas the kit actually has a 38mm motor mount....

I guess I'll just dremel that sucker out.

-Mike
 
I purchased one from the for sale site on here and fin slots are cut short. No problem I can cut them longer.
 
sad to see that the blending of RW into madcow is bringing all the sloppiness and crappy design into madcow that RW was famous for.
 
I was inspecting the contents of my kit today... And I realized that the fin tabs were not correct. After some investigation, it is apparent that the fins were designed for a 29mm motor mount, whereas the kit actually has a 38mm motor mount....

I guess I'll just dremel that sucker out.


-Mike

Aw man, that explains why my tabs are so long. And I just injected the last two fins... hopefully the fillets will cover everything.
 
Have any of you finished your build on this? I have my last set of fillets to do tonight then all that's left is the last bit of assembly - mostly drilling holes and attaching rail buttons. I ended up using some epoxy clay to continue the line of the leading edge of the fins flush with the airframe. Since my tabs were too long there was about 1/8 inch of tab standing proud of the airframe. I wanted something for the fillets to "hold" and not convinced they would cover the gap alone.

Some questions for those who have built this already as I head into the home stretch:

Any of you using nylon shear pins to hold on the NC section? How many? I was thinking one would be enough...
I wasn't planning on using shear pins to hold the fin can to the av bay. Should I?

How many static port holes did you put in your av bay and how large? (I'm looking at the calculators but curious what others are doing)

This will be set up for dual deploy, and also my first attempt at this. Hoping to do a ejection charge test this weekend. Has anyone flown this DD yet and if so, how much black powder did you use? Calculators are coming up with less than .5 grams but that doesn't seem like very much (I'm going to be using glove tips taped to the bulkheads - keeping it simple).
 
Have any of you finished your build on this? I have my last set of fillets to do tonight then all that's left is the last bit of assembly - mostly drilling holes and attaching rail buttons. I ended up using some epoxy clay to continue the line of the leading edge of the fins flush with the airframe. Since my tabs were too long there was about 1/8 inch of tab standing proud of the airframe. I wanted something for the fillets to "hold" and not convinced they would cover the gap alone.

Some questions for those who have built this already as I head into the home stretch:

Any of you using nylon shear pins to hold on the NC section? How many? I was thinking one would be enough...
I wasn't planning on using shear pins to hold the fin can to the av bay. Should I?

How many static port holes did you put in your av bay and how large? (I'm looking at the calculators but curious what others are doing)

This will be set up for dual deploy, and also my first attempt at this. Hoping to do a ejection charge test this weekend. Has anyone flown this DD yet and if so, how much black powder did you use? Calculators are coming up with less than .5 grams but that doesn't seem like very much (I'm going to be using glove tips taped to the bulkheads - keeping it simple).
Coincidentally, I was doing some research and coming up with a list before putting in any of these holes. This is for my 3" LOC cardboard rocket but I think these notes can apply to pretty much any similar rocket.

Holes in rocket, top to bottom
Nose cone to payload tube: 3x shear pins halfway up nose cone shoulder, appropriate hole size, and hole reinforced with CA
Payload tube: vent 3x 1/8", location as low as possible? location as high as possible? One high and one low? 1x 1/4" hole
Payload tube to AV bay: 3x removable rivets halfway up AV bay, appropriate hole size, and hole reinforced with CA
AV bay: vent 3x 1/8" or 4x 3/32", or reduce if using electronics arming pin
AV bay to sustainer: friction fit
Sustainer: vent 3x 1/8" or 1x 1/4" as high as possible

You might get away with one shear pin as long as the affected bay/payload/sustainer is vented to avoid pressure. Then the shear pin is really just to prevent drag separation.
Look for websites to calculate static port sizes. This is the one I used https://www.vernk.com/AltimeterPortSizing.htm
Test your ejection charges. 0.5 g doesn't seem like too much. You need to shear your pin(s) and push the parachute out. There are calculators for how much force is required to shear the pins. Only 1 pin won't take much.
 
Have any of you finished your build on this? I have my last set of fillets to do tonight then all that's left is the last bit of assembly - mostly drilling holes and attaching rail buttons. I ended up using some epoxy clay to continue the line of the leading edge of the fins flush with the airframe. Since my tabs were too long there was about 1/8 inch of tab standing proud of the airframe. I wanted something for the fillets to "hold" and not convinced they would cover the gap alone.

Some questions for those who have built this already as I head into the home stretch:

Any of you using nylon shear pins to hold on the NC section? How many? I was thinking one would be enough...
I wasn't planning on using shear pins to hold the fin can to the av bay. Should I?

How many static port holes did you put in your av bay and how large? (I'm looking at the calculators but curious what others are doing)

This will be set up for dual deploy, and also my first attempt at this. Hoping to do a ejection charge test this weekend. Has anyone flown this DD yet and if so, how much black powder did you use? Calculators are coming up with less than .5 grams but that doesn't seem like very much (I'm going to be using glove tips taped to the bulkheads - keeping it simple).

Finishing mine as well.

Two #2-56 nylon screws for the nose. One is probably fine.

No shear pins in the fin can. I never see the need.

3 static port holes per the VernK website. I will need to drill one hole bigger than the others in order to accommodate a screwdriver for the altimeter switch.

I am guessing that 1 gram black powder will be needed.
 
Have any of you finished your build on this? I have my last set of fillets to do tonight then all that's left is the last bit of assembly - mostly drilling holes and attaching rail buttons. I ended up using some epoxy clay to continue the line of the leading edge of the fins flush with the airframe. Since my tabs were too long there was about 1/8 inch of tab standing proud of the airframe. I wanted something for the fillets to "hold" and not convinced they would cover the gap alone.

Some questions for those who have built this already as I head into the home stretch:

Any of you using nylon shear pins to hold on the NC section? How many? I was thinking one would be enough...
I wasn't planning on using shear pins to hold the fin can to the av bay. Should I?

How many static port holes did you put in your av bay and how large? (I'm looking at the calculators but curious what others are doing)

This will be set up for dual deploy, and also my first attempt at this. Hoping to do a ejection charge test this weekend. Has anyone flown this DD yet and if so, how much black powder did you use? Calculators are coming up with less than .5 grams but that doesn't seem like very much (I'm going to be using glove tips taped to the bulkheads - keeping it simple).
I just flew mine last weekend. I used two 2/56 shear pins on the nose-cone, and friction fit the booster. 1 gram of pyrodex for the drogue event, and 0.7 grams for the main. I did chop 6" off of the payload bay tube, though.

TRA L2
 
Got mine built and gave it a shake down flight on a CTI G125 red, was pretty windy so didn't want to send it too high. Flew well, have a nice metal storm H and a green I to pick from next time.

Ended up shaving 2mm from the roots of the fins since I didn't want to have to do huge fillets. Bevelled with a 15 degree edge all round and she came out looking decent. I also chucked the switch band and just glued the e-bay into the payload section. It's not hard to load and cuts out a join and rivets. 20180428_162725.jpeg
 
I love seeing these finished builds coming in. Here's mine. I'll be flying it for the first time at LDRS for my L2 cert on a CTI J270.

IMG_6115.jpg

Still deciding if I'm going to paint it or not. I'm thinking I probably will. Just having it out in the sun for a few minutes for my ejection test and it was almost too hot to touch.
IMG_6116.jpg

^ Not my best ever fillets, but they came out ok. As mentioned previously in this thread, the fin tabs were too long. I ended up using some epoxy clay to even out/continue the leading edge. Used tinted Rocketpoxy for the external fillets. Injected all internal with Aeropoxy. I really liked this technique but will need to invest in a less viscous epoxy for injecting. Used JB weld to tack on the fins at the root.

This is a Giant Leap slimline boat tail motor retainer. I think it looks pretty spiffy.

Used the kit-supplied rail buttons but had to cut down the screws to length. set with a tiny dab of epoxy.


IMG_6119.jpg

^ One modification I made was to use a hard point anchor in the fincan for attaching my recovery. Normally these are epoxied into the motor motor tube, but I got one the size of the body tube instead. I wanted to have the option of motor eject and I also wanted this to be removable. It's attached with 3 black oxide 6/32 button head hex screws. I was concerned that the tube wall and the aluminum of the anchor would be too thin to make for a decent mechanical attachment with just tapping the screws alone, but they threaded nicely and are holding strong.

I have this located in a position that will fit a 5 grain case. It <might> fit a 6 grain but I don't have one so can only guess. Nice thing about this setup is I can always move it forward or aft depending on how much room I need. (would have to fill screw holes though).

I do plan to replace these eye bolts with forged or welded ones. For now stock will have to do.


IMG_6117.jpg

^ Here's my drogue setup. 18' of 1/8" kevlar. Hexagonal kevlar chute protector from Giant Leap. For the drogue, I'm using a Top Flight 40" streamer. Good deployment test with .75g of 4FG BP. Friction fit on this end. It's a little on the loose side, so I have a bit of tape on the coupler to snug things up.


IMG_6120.jpg

^ Main side. Same kevlar as the drogue. Quick links on either end. I like using a bit of shrink tubing to cover up knot ends. Using a heavy-duty swivel on the chute attachment point. For this I just threaded it through the line and then made a loop with an overhand knot keeping the swivel on the loop.

Using a Top Flight 36" thin-mil chute. And no, that's not how I fold if for fight... :)

The chute protector is custom (can you tell lol) yeah my sewing skills need help. This one was for testing - next one will be a little cleaner. This is a much thinner nomex cloth than the ones you normally see - I got a few yards of it. The result is that it folds much tighter. I gave it a blow torch test (really) and it seems just as flame resistant as the thicker stuff. I'm also experimenting with the shape of it. I find that a square hanky just isn't the best shape for making your chute burrito. The hexagonal one I'm using for my drogue is the right idea, but for this I found that something more rectangular with the corners cut off rolled up better.

.75g of 4FG BP for the ejection charge.

AV bay is held to the payload section with three nylon rivets. Nose cone is attached with 2 2-56 nylon shear pins.


IMG_6121.jpg

^ Electronics is super simple. PerfectFlite StratoLoggerCF powered by a 180mah 2S 7.4v lipo. I'm using twist and tape to arm. I'll fish that wire though a vent hole, button everything up then strip and twist when it's on the pad.

I know it's not "best practice" but I chose not to have redundant altimeters for this first flight. For me the trade off of having as simple a dual deploy setup as possible outweighed other considerations.

I had planned to use one of the cool pull pin switches that Lab Rat rocketry 3d prints mounts for, but I realized that since I'm not using terminal blocks on the bulkheads, there is no way for me to install the alt sled once the charges are wired in without pulling the pin (thus arming it) for a minute while I button it up. That's a no go, thus twist and tape. I wanted to keep this as simple as possible and avoid any potential points of failure, so in this case I'm direct wiring my e-matches to the altimeter. My charges will be in glove tips.


IMG_6112.jpg

^ Using a TeleGPS for tracking. This is one of the nifty sleds that Chris at Lab Rat Rocketry makes. The bulkhead fits perfectly in a 54mm nose cone and comes with a drilling guide so your set screw holes line up perfectly. the tracker sled is held on by the eye bolt. Battery is attached on the other side.

Previously I used this tracker with only my HT which is ARPS capable, so I could essentially find the tracker with my handheld radio and get the gps coordinates right on the screen. Then I type them into my iphone and go. I broke down and got the TeleBluetooth for it which is attached directly to my yagi antenna. That sends all of the location and flight data to my android tablet.


IMG_6123.jpg

^ And here's the whole setup. The rocket came together pretty well. Aside from the fin length issues it's a well made kit. The fit is a little sloppy between the switch band and payload, but that's most likely poor building skills on my part. This is only my second FG rocket and I still have a lot to learn.


63 oz total ready to fly weight (no motor). 1/8" vent holes in the booster and sustainer. 3 x 3/32 holes in the switch band for static port.
 
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Looking good. That boat tail is spiffy! Don't let the over-builders shame you. One altimeter is just fine!
 
First flight on CTI H152. The wind was pretty stiff, so I angled the rod a bit. The butt end wiggled coming off the rail and achieved an altitude of just ~1900 ft.

Everything was nominal except the kevlar drogue cord got wrapped around the lower rail button and the fin can descended upside down. Never saw that before.

With spent H152 motor: drogue descent rate was 63 ft/s and main descent rate was 18 ft/s.
 
Just got my Adventurer! Love seeing all the photos of your builds! Is my kit the only one where
a) the fins slots are too long and
b) the fins need to be sanded a huge amount to fit into the slots?

I’ve built a few rockets before (never a fiberglass) but have never needed to sand the fins down this much. Curious if you guys have experienced the same thing.
 
Just got my Adventurer! Love seeing all the photos of your builds! Is my kit the only one where
a) the fins slots are too long and
b) the fins need to be sanded a huge amount to fit into the slots?

I’ve built a few rockets before (never a fiberglass) but have never needed to sand the fins down this much. Curious if you guys have experienced the same thing.

Don't sand the fins. Just open up the slots a little. a Dremel tool works very well for that. and only takes a couple of passes. Do not cut the whole thickness of the slot just sand off a little of the slot inside edge.
 
Don't sand the fins. Just open up the slots a little. a Dremel tool works very well for that. and only takes a couple of passes. Do not cut the whole thickness of the slot just sand off a little of the slot inside edge.

My fin slots were too small as well. I don't trust myself with a Dremel for things like that so I just used my metal sanding block. Its super thin so easy to get in there. I read one tip on widening fin slots to only do one side of the slot only not both - and that same side all the way around.
 
I read one tip on widening fin slots to only do one side of the slot only not both - and that same side all the way around.

That's how I do it. By only modifying one side of the slot, you still have a nice straight factory cut edge to keep your fins concentric if your sanding and dremeling is less than perfect.
 
Thanks guys! Does anyone know if the fins are supposed to be flush with the body tube? This is what mine look like. IMG_1537312817.615787.jpg
 
mine was not, just like yours. as the others have said, covered by the fillets.
 
Thanks guys! Does anyone know if the fins are supposed to be flush with the body tube? This is what mine look like. View attachment 361960
Mine were exactly the same. Suspected that the fin tabs were in fact intended for a 29mm motor but never bothered to measure to confirm. I just used some epoxy clay to continue the line of the fin all the way to the body tube. It was all covered by the fillet in the end, but I wanted something for it to grab on to.
 
I haven't worked on my Adventurer at all, with the exception of moving the body tubes around a few times in my shop in the last year. I am getting married in three weeks, and have been feverishly working on some other projects to have them done FOR the wedding (nothing like a hard deadline to get you going, huh?). One rocket project that I have worked on, though, is a LOC Minie Magg with a 75mm hole... I can't wait to fly that thing.
 
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