Optimal knots for recovery harnesses?

I've seen a few of these covered in other threads, but I'm hoping to consolidate all into one post, and also of course gather some empirical data from other users.

When tying kevlar tubing (this is not about sewing), which knot is the best?
1) Square knot: simple, so least multiplication of forces on material leading to failure at the knot?
2) figure-8 with follow through: beaten into me in my years of climbing; good enough to save a life, should work fine on recovery?
3) water-knot: used in climbing (at least back in my day) for runners and whatnot, again...good enough for climbing, so?
4) uni-knot: from fishing; referenced on a few threads here.
5) other?

I didn't set up a poll because my question is more than just "most common"...I'm hoping to elucidate some actual evidence behind the choice made.

Thanks!
Soop

I find the overall utility of the bowline hard to beat. I do generally clip the loose end with a cable tie, just for my own peace-of-mind

I do everything at the ends with buried splice loops and in the middle with alpine butterflies. My understanding is these two knots best maintain the full strength of the material in all directions. For my splices I do put in a few stitches by hand so they don't slip when not under load.

I use the bowline for everything.

I've used the bowline for years for just about everything.
Lately I have been trying new knots:
For mid loops I use Alpine Butterfly
End loops I use Perfection Loop.

+1 Bowline

+1 for alpine butterfly for mid loops.

Bowlines I avoid because they can come loose if not under contant tension.


I use water knots and tape the loose end to the main line.

Many knots will work. Everyone has a preference.

Bowline. The advantage is that it can be untied (a marlinspike is handy). The loose end can always be taped to prevent accidental untying, but I’ve never had one untie.


Steve Shannon

Taping loose end may work on bowline as stated above.

cavecentral said:

Taping loose end may work on bowline as stated above.

Click to expand...

Taping does work.

I use the water knot, alpine butterfly and figure eight knots. I also use a gnat knot for low power cords around the motor tube to mount the shock cord.

Instead of tape, I use heat shrink tube over the knot to ensure it doesn’t loosen and in some cases as strain relief around corners.

No love for the Surgeon knot? It's all I use. Easy to tie and rock solid.

Taping loose end may work on bowline as stated above.

Click to expand...

I have never had one come undone, but I cable-tie the loose end.

A sheet bend is far better than a square knot for joining two pieces of rope. I've never had a bowline slip except for the super-slippery 300# Kevlar spearfishing line. That stuff just wants to untie itself all the time. +1 to alpine butterflies.

As an aside - while researching some of the knots mentioned here (that I’d never heard of) I found this site.

Seems VERY useful:

https://www.animatedknots.com


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Figure 8 - there is a reason we hang ourselves over a cliff with that knot


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I just used that sheepshead Slipknot from the Apogee videos with great success so far.

I used the buried splice, or actually a slightly modified version of the one listed above in the past, but I'm finding the tubular kevlar I buy these days (Giant Leap and Missileworks) has such a tight weave I can't get a fid into it...anyone else have a solution for that?

I've spliced tubular kevlar, and back in the fly fishing days braided nylon, and it hold up to few pounds without it failing. A pack of repair needles does a good job of going in from the top or you could make a loop from a strand of copper speaker wire (feed it up from the bottom, poke it through where you want the tag end to enter the braid, and pull it down through and out). Put your swivel or loops on the kevlar. Thread the kevlar through the needle, push the needle in where you want the loop to take. Push the kevlar up over the needle and slide the tag end down and out out the braid. Add a drop of glue and rub it in then pull the tag end back into the braid just enough to even everything out and let the glue set. You can mark the entry of the loop with a marker so you can see if it is slipping but I've had nice size trout not pull a braid apart under tension. Just don't make it a short loop. The loop in the picture is about 6-7 inches of kevlar. The extra length gives it more gripping surface. Hmmm. May throw tension/strain testing to a student for a science project!!!

Nytrunner said:

I just used that sheepshead Slipknot from the Apogee videos with great success so far.

Click to expand...

Same here.

Bowline is a great knot, but if I am correct it is a 60% knot, but very easy to untie. I use figure 8, if well dressed it will untie and is a 100% knot. I remember reading these things in the book "On Rope". Wish I could find it. I use to do vertical caving.

r66astro said:

Bowline is a great knot, but if I am correct it is a 60% knot, but very easy to untie. I use figure 8, if well dressed it will untie and is a 100% knot. I remember reading these things in the book "On Rope". Wish I could find it. I use to do vertical caving.

Click to expand...

Amazon has it.